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Best type of glue for repairing Marklin 5506 set Wagon
 Joined: 15/06/2004(UTC) Posts: 71 Location: Hampshire, UK
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Hello,
I need to repair some wagons and I know in the past polystyrene was used a lot but ABS is more common now.
I need to repair a buffer beam and 2 low sided wagon body ends that have been broken. The breaks are quite clean and so if I can use the correct adhesive I can make an invisible repair but if I try the wrong one first it will inevitably get messy.
As the wagons are the 3 from the 5506 set and together cost under £100 delivered in excellent condition otherwise, I am keen to get a neat repair. I have used super glue where strength matters and you cannot see any of the white staining but it is not ideal for all plastics.
The size and weight of our gauge 1 trains coupled with the nice details does mean unless they live behind glass, which seems a shame, you do need to make some occasional running repairs.
Sometimes I think there is a whole separate hobby trying to find the part numbers of in production suitable spares. It has got better with rolling stock being listed on the spares website although without illustrations it can be a surprise when the package arrives from Germany.
But that's where our forum is so useful.
Graham
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 Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
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Graham, as you said the breaks are clean, I use superglue and you only need a small drop of this stuff and a steady hand, apply the superglue via a toothpick so you can control the amount you need., hold it for a second without shaking and this should do the job until it gets broken again by some unforeseen circumstances.
I've repaired broken couplings whereas the split end part got broken off, I drilled a hole into both parts added a bit of superglue into one hole an stuck a wire into it, than I did the same with the other side.
superglue sometimes leaves a whitish residue behind just paint it black and no one would notice it was ever broken or fixed, when applying super glue always make sure there isn't any on your fingers otherwise your loco will suddenly have unwanted spots on the surface and you can't get rid of them., very annoying
John |
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Joined: 05/11/2017(UTC) Posts: 21 Location: England, Rotherham
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Hi Graham I use plastic weld glue and if that dosen't work then I use a contact adhesive. At the moment I an having success with 151 but use sparingly
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Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,465
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Originally Posted by: gcanton  Hello,
I need to repair some wagons and I know in the past polystyrene was used a lot but ABS is more common now.
I need to repair a buffer beam and 2 low sided wagon body ends that have been broken. The breaks are quite clean and so if I can use the correct adhesive I can make an invisible repair but if I try the wrong one first it will inevitably get messy.
As the wagons are the 3 from the 5506 set and together cost under £100 delivered in excellent condition otherwise, I am keen to get a neat repair. I have used super glue where strength matters and you cannot see any of the white staining but it is not ideal for all plastics.
The size and weight of our gauge 1 trains coupled with the nice details does mean unless they live behind glass, which seems a shame, you do need to make some occasional running repairs.
Sometimes I think there is a whole separate hobby trying to find the part numbers of in production suitable spares. It has got better with rolling stock being listed on the spares website although without illustrations it can be a surprise when the package arrives from Germany.
But that's where our forum is so useful.
Graham Well, I do have a similar problem, but I haven't made any decision yet. Super glue is super but also a bit dangerous. I found some information at Faller about their products and even in English.  https://www.faller.de/Ap...-Plastikkleber-25-g.htmlhttps://www.faller.de/xs...tungen/170492_anl_01.pdfDo your choice and let us know, please.
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 Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC) Posts: 3,998 Location: Paremata, Wellington
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Have a look at these, I have used the Selley's product, the Loctite one looks very similar, no doubt there are other brands. You apply the 'primer' / 'activator' to both surfaces, but the glue itself to only one. It appears very similar to superglue.   |
Cookee Wellington  |
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 Joined: 15/11/2009(UTC) Posts: 300 Location: Silver Spring, Maryland USA
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Hello,
I had to repair some damage to my son's BR 74 recently (my 2 year old grandson got a hold of the lok). I used the same medium thickness, 30 second set CA (Cyanoacrylate a.k.a. Super Glue) that I've been using in my other hobby for nearly 20 years. I carefully applied the glue with a tooth pick and then held the pieces together for a count of "30 Mississippis". I have to look very closely in bright sunlight to see the repairs. Otherwise, they are not noticeable.
Regards, |
Rob
Mackenrode Wende Bahn |
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Joined: 15/06/2004(UTC) Posts: 71 Location: Hampshire, UK
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After reading these replies I bought a new jar of E.M.A. Model supplies Plastic Weld at a model show as it promised to join Styrene, Butyrate, ABS Acrylic and Perspex.
And it worked. On both Marklin hard wagon bodies and the bendy plastics of brake gear to not make a mess but a strong joint.
So happiness.
However it got me thinking that these plastic welding solvents may not be a single ingredient and I am beginning to think the lighter active ingredients may evaporate whilst the jar is open and we are building a kit as it worked far better fresh than the half full jar in my drawer whose poor results prompted me to ask the question.
It lists the hazardous ingredient as Methylene Chloride and says contains Dichloromethane which is the same thing.
Best to read the Wikipedia about it after doing the modelling though.
So a fresh jar, keep it sealed and at £2.95 for 57ml throw it away if it gets lazy.
Graham
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Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,481 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: gcanton
It lists the hazardous ingredient as Methylene Chloride and says contains Dichloromethane which is the same thing.
Best to read the Wikipedia about it after doing the modelling though.
Yeah, they are classed as carcinogenic, so although the fumes can make you a bit high, they are also potentially dangerous.
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