Welcome to the forum   
Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Share
Options
View
Go to last post in this topic Go to first unread post in this topic
Offline gcanton  
#1 Posted : 20 March 2019 14:02:01(UTC)
gcanton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 15/06/2004(UTC)
Posts: 53
Location: Hampshire, UK
Hello,

I need to repair some wagons and I know in the past polystyrene was used a lot but ABS is more common now.

I need to repair a buffer beam and 2 low sided wagon body ends that have been broken. The breaks are quite clean and so if I can use the correct adhesive I can make an invisible repair but if I try the wrong one first it will inevitably get messy.

As the wagons are the 3 from the 5506 set and together cost under £100 delivered in excellent condition otherwise, I am keen to get a neat repair. I have used super glue where strength matters and you cannot see any of the white staining but it is not ideal for all plastics.

The size and weight of our gauge 1 trains coupled with the nice details does mean unless they live behind glass, which seems a shame, you do need to make some occasional running repairs.

Sometimes I think there is a whole separate hobby trying to find the part numbers of in production suitable spares. It has got better with rolling stock being listed on the spares website although without illustrations it can be a surprise when the package arrives from Germany.

But that's where our forum is so useful.

Graham
Offline river6109  
#2 Posted : 22 March 2019 07:24:42(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 12,410
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Graham, as you said the breaks are clean, I use superglue and you only need a small drop of this stuff and a steady hand, apply the superglue via a toothpick so you can control the amount you need., hold it for a second without shaking and this should do the job until it gets broken again by some unforeseen circumstances.
I've repaired broken couplings whereas the split end part got broken off, I drilled a hole into both parts added a bit of superglue into one hole an stuck a wire into it, than I did the same with the other side.
superglue sometimes leaves a whitish residue behind just paint it black and no one would notice it was ever broken or fixed, when applying super glue always make sure there isn't any on your fingers otherwise your loco will suddenly have unwanted spots on the surface and you can't get rid of them., very annoying

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline CTD81  
#3 Posted : 22 March 2019 14:03:16(UTC)
CTD81

United Kingdom   
Joined: 05/11/2017(UTC)
Posts: 21
Location: England, Rotherham
Hi Graham I use plastic weld glue and if that dosen't work then I use a contact adhesive. At the moment I an having success with 151 but use sparingly
Offline TEEWolf  
#4 Posted : 23 March 2019 00:41:19(UTC)
TEEWolf

Germany   
Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC)
Posts: 1,546
Location: Bavaria
Originally Posted by: gcanton Go to Quoted Post
Hello,

I need to repair some wagons and I know in the past polystyrene was used a lot but ABS is more common now.

I need to repair a buffer beam and 2 low sided wagon body ends that have been broken. The breaks are quite clean and so if I can use the correct adhesive I can make an invisible repair but if I try the wrong one first it will inevitably get messy.

As the wagons are the 3 from the 5506 set and together cost under £100 delivered in excellent condition otherwise, I am keen to get a neat repair. I have used super glue where strength matters and you cannot see any of the white staining but it is not ideal for all plastics.

The size and weight of our gauge 1 trains coupled with the nice details does mean unless they live behind glass, which seems a shame, you do need to make some occasional running repairs.

Sometimes I think there is a whole separate hobby trying to find the part numbers of in production suitable spares. It has got better with rolling stock being listed on the spares website although without illustrations it can be a surprise when the package arrives from Germany.

But that's where our forum is so useful.

Graham


Well, I do have a similar problem, but I haven't made any decision yet. Super glue is super but also a bit dangerous. I found some information at Faller about their products and even in English.Smile

https://www.faller.de/Ap...-Plastikkleber-25-g.html

https://www.faller.de/xs...tungen/170492_anl_01.pdf

Do your choice and let us know, please.



CS 3 is a controller system from Märklin - not a central station.
Offline cookee_nz  
#5 Posted : 23 March 2019 10:07:04(UTC)
cookee_nz

New Zealand   
Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2,938
Location: Paremata, Wellington
Have a look at these, I have used the Selley's product, the Loctite one looks very similar, no doubt there are other brands. You apply the 'primer' / 'activator' to both surfaces, but the glue itself to only one. It appears very similar to superglue.

loctite-super-glue-681925-64_1000.jpgSelleysPlasticFix.jpg
Cookee
Wellington
NZ image
Offline rrf  
#6 Posted : 23 March 2019 12:05:48(UTC)
rrf

United States   
Joined: 15/11/2009(UTC)
Posts: 229
Location: Silver Spring, Maryland USA
Hello,

I had to repair some damage to my son's BR 74 recently (my 2 year old grandson got a hold of the lok). I used the same medium thickness, 30 second set CA (Cyanoacrylate a.k.a. Super Glue) that I've been using in my other hobby for nearly 20 years. I carefully applied the glue with a tooth pick and then held the pieces together for a count of "30 Mississippis". I have to look very closely in bright sunlight to see the repairs. Otherwise, they are not noticeable.


Regards,
Rob
Mackenrode Wende Bahn
Offline gcanton  
#7 Posted : 11 April 2019 17:49:51(UTC)
gcanton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 15/06/2004(UTC)
Posts: 53
Location: Hampshire, UK
After reading these replies I bought a new jar of E.M.A. Model supplies Plastic Weld at a model show as it promised to join Styrene, Butyrate, ABS Acrylic and Perspex.

And it worked. On both Marklin hard wagon bodies and the bendy plastics of brake gear to not make a mess but a strong joint.

So happiness.

However it got me thinking that these plastic welding solvents may not be a single ingredient and I am beginning to think the lighter active ingredients may evaporate whilst the jar is open and we are building a kit as it worked far better fresh than the half full jar in my drawer whose poor results prompted me to ask the question.

It lists the hazardous ingredient as Methylene Chloride and says contains Dichloromethane which is the same thing.

Best to read the Wikipedia about it after doing the modelling though.

So a fresh jar, keep it sealed and at £2.95 for 57ml throw it away if it gets lazy.

Graham
Offline kiwiAlan  
#8 Posted : 11 April 2019 18:25:07(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 4,258
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: gcanton Go to Quoted Post

It lists the hazardous ingredient as Methylene Chloride and says contains Dichloromethane which is the same thing.

Best to read the Wikipedia about it after doing the modelling though.



Yeah, they are classed as carcinogenic, so although the fumes can make you a bit high, they are also potentially dangerous.

Users browsing this topic
OceanSpiders 2.0
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

| Powered by YAF.NET | YAF.NET © 2003-2019, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.410 seconds.