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Offline rg1911  
#1 Posted : 30 November 2018 23:38:44(UTC)
rg1911

United States   
Joined: 27/11/2018(UTC)
Posts: 14
Before I try to reinvent the wheel or just spray the whole thing down with WD40 or brake cleaner (just kidding!), what seems to be the best way to clean the gears on my 1956 CM800 Tender that I recently re-inherited? The service manual (Maerklin%20Service%20Manual.pdf) that was posted here did not mention cleaning the gears at all. Would I just use very small bristle brushes, like artist brushes but stiffer? Does anyone use any cleaner to dissolve old grease/oil?

For oiling, does anyone use something other than the Maerklin 7199 oil mentioned in the service manual? For my other hobbies, I have a reasonable assortment of greases and oils.

I actually have 5 or 6 engines (one has escaped while unpacking from the last move) that may need attention.

Also, from where do people get parts in the USA? The CM800 is in quite good shape for having been stored for 50+ years, but it looks as though it could use new motor brushes and traction tire inserts. I have not yet closely inspected the other locomotives.

Thank you,
Richard
Offline cookee_nz  
#2 Posted : 01 December 2018 04:06:33(UTC)
cookee_nz

New Zealand   
Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3,646
Location: Paremata, Wellington
Originally Posted by: rg1911 Go to Quoted Post
Before I try to reinvent the wheel or just spray the whole thing down with WD40 or brake cleaner (just kidding!), what seems to be the best way to clean the gears on my 1956 CM800 Tender that I recently re-inherited? The service manual (Maerklin%20Service%20Manual.pdf) that was posted here did not mention cleaning the gears at all. Would I just use very small bristle brushes, like artist brushes but stiffer? Does anyone use any cleaner to dissolve old grease/oil?

For oiling, does anyone use something other than the Maerklin 7199 oil mentioned in the service manual? For my other hobbies, I have a reasonable assortment of greases and oils.

I actually have 5 or 6 engines (one has escaped while unpacking from the last move) that may need attention.

Also, from where do people get parts in the USA? The CM800 is in quite good shape for having been stored for 50+ years, but it looks as though it could use new motor brushes and traction tire inserts. I have not yet closely inspected the other locomotives.

Thank you,
Richard


Hi Richard, one of the issues with older M. loks is when the existing oil dries out and almost turns to glue. If the oil is regularly refreshed it retains its properties but left for too long it will dry and seize the whole works.

The preference now is to stop using organic lubricants in favour of synthetic oils as these will not dry out in the same way. You can buy modellers synthetic oils such as 'Labelle' and there are others of course. Personally, because I use oil for a lot of things (Typewriters, Printers, My Wonderwheel etc as well as the trains) I just purchased a litre of synthetic motor oil (one of the big brands like Mobil I think) and use that, and it's been great and very economical.

For cleaning, WD40 actually would be fine, you just need to make sure you leave no residue, or you could flush with IPA (IsoPropyl Alcohol) and various other cleaners. A small brush will certainly help loosen any grime. Just be careful that the red paint on the wheels can be softened by some cleaners so watch for that, quick application, quick wipe off.

Can't help you with parts in the US but someone will quickly chime in to help there.

Cheers
Cookee
Wellington
NZ image
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by cookee_nz
Offline jvuye  
#3 Posted : 01 December 2018 11:18:45(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: rg1911 Go to Quoted Post
Before I try to reinvent the wheel or just spray the whole thing down with WD40 or brake cleaner (just kidding!), what seems to be the best way to clean the gears on my 1956 CM800 Tender that I recently re-inherited? The service manual (Maerklin%20Service%20Manual.pdf) that was posted here did not mention cleaning the gears at all. Would I just use very small bristle brushes, like artist brushes but stiffer? Does anyone use any cleaner to dissolve old grease/oil?

For oiling, does anyone use something other than the Maerklin 7199 oil mentioned in the service manual? For my other hobbies, I have a reasonable assortment of greases and oils.

I actually have 5 or 6 engines (one has escaped while unpacking from the last move) that may need attention.

Also, from where do people get parts in the USA? The CM800 is in quite good shape for having been stored for 50+ years, but it looks as though it could use new motor brushes and traction tire inserts. I have not yet closely inspected the other locomotives.

Thank you,
Richard


I have used lighter fluid for the longest time to clean gears and the like.
A few drops to soak the gear, let is sit for 10 seconds and use a toothbrush .
Repeat as needed
Check for smooth running, turning the wheels with your fingers after removing the brushes (to avoid excessive stress on the gears)
Always use the **geared side** of the wheels' train , especially on steamers to avoid sync problems in the future
Replace the brushes after test.
Should run like a champ
Cheers
Jacques
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by jvuye
Offline rg1911  
#4 Posted : 01 December 2018 20:01:01(UTC)
rg1911

United States   
Joined: 27/11/2018(UTC)
Posts: 14
Thank you to Jaques and cookee_nz.

Fortunately, the wheels do turn; I just wanted to make sure everything was okay and to get in some practice in case I run into a tougher job.

I agree with the use of synthetic oils; it's what I use for quite a few other applications.

I had not thought to remove the brushes before rotating the wheels and gear. I will make sure to do that.

Concerning parts, I guess I will need to talk to my local train store, but he is open only on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 1630 to 1800. Odd. The next nearest store is about 150 miles south in Denver, Colorado.

I am looking forward to the arrival of the 6646 transformers I ordered to replace the blue metal one that was purchased circa 1956 and that seems to be putting a full 120 volts out the plugs. Not good. (I'm glad I checked with a volt meter before trying to run a locomotive.)

Cheers,
Richard
Offline rrf  
#5 Posted : 02 December 2018 17:20:21(UTC)
rrf

United States   
Joined: 15/11/2009(UTC)
Posts: 300
Location: Silver Spring, Maryland USA
Originally Posted by: cookee_nz Go to Quoted Post

<Stuff Deleted>

The preference now is to stop using organic lubricants in favour of synthetic oils as these will not dry out in the same way. You can buy modellers synthetic oils such as 'Labelle' and there are others of course.

<More Stuff Deleted>


Hello,

I had a stock of Märklin oil that lasted me for 20+ years. When it ran out, all my dealer had was Labelle. I've used it for my trains and RC Warships for just as long without problems. I added a couple of bottles of 7149 to a recent order that came in last week. I was about to use it on one of my Loks, when I happened to read Cookie's note about organic lubricants.

Should I find another purpose for the Märklin oil and stick with the Labelle?

Thanks,
Rob
Mackenrode Wende Bahn
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by rrf
Offline rg1911  
#6 Posted : 04 December 2018 02:59:53(UTC)
rg1911

United States   
Joined: 27/11/2018(UTC)
Posts: 14
Well, I cleaned the gears on one of my tenders (89028 on the shell) and cleaned the brush contact area on the motor with electronics cleaner; then I carefully greased the gears and oiled the wheel shafts. The tender then zipped around the track for several circuits before it stopped and locked up. I can't turn the wheels by hand, even with the brushes removed. If I turn the gears by hand, everything does moves.

I don't know if I did something wrong or if 50 years of storage just took their toll. I'll be looking for a repair shop; preferably in the US.

Fortunately for my wife's desire to have a train around the Christmas tree, a large locomotive (a 2-6-2) is running well, even after all these years. I plan to leave it alone; at least until after the holiday season.

Cheers,
Richard
Offline nhoj  
#7 Posted : 22 November 2019 18:24:22(UTC)
nhoj

United States   
Joined: 22/10/2019(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Texas, Lewisville
I use brake cleaner to clean the gears after removing the motor and reversing unit. Brake cleaner use to be made with carbontetrachloride which is no longer made as it is a hazardous to the lungs
but found that newer brake cleaner now made with tetrachloroethylene. Its still hazardous but I do this in a well ventilated area (outside) . It does do an excellent job of dislodging old oil and grease
and cleaning the gears. I then use compressed air to quickly dry the area completely. I've never seen any damage to the frame paint. I also clean the motor. I remove the brushes and spray down
motor cover, armature, and magnet. Works far better than Q-tips and alcohol. It takes only a minute or two to get clean as a whistle. Again I blow off everything with compressed air. I then will
re-dress the armature with fine 400 grit sanding cloth and a drill motor to spin the armature. Then one final spray down with the brake cleaner to clean the groves in the armature. Then I sparingly oil the gears ( I use 5/20w synthetic motor oil). Very little oil is required. I can't tell you how little oil is needed for the gear shafts. I don't get oil on the gears themselves, as all this does is attract dirt and dust.
The wheels and gears should rotate easily and smoothly. Then I reassemble the motor, and the reversing unit, re-solder the connections, replace the brushes with new ones. That's it ! The motor will run amazingly quietly and smooth. There is no residue of the tetrachloroethylene left behind. One last note, I've found that some of the electronic cleaners work well, but have seen some residue left by
CRC electronic cleaner. Brake cleaner is tetrachloroethylene and carbon dioxide as a propellant and that's all. No residue. If you have rust on your gears you've got a problem that will require further disassembly, and a lot of work. Oh, I almost forgot, remove the motor shaft sump media and clean out the sumps and replace with new media (sponge). Oil Reserve Sponge for Motor/Rotor Bearings
Marlin part number 600660. One drop of oil for each sump is all that is needed. I'll re-oil the sumps about twice a year at the most. " Oily Gears are not Clean Gears " I always mop up residual oil on the gears with Q-Tips as regular maintenance, but find very little on my gears. Keep all electrical parts away from oil. To much oil can ruin a good locomotive fast by gumming up the pinions and gear teeth or getting oil in the motor housing.
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by nhoj
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