Before I try to reinvent the wheel or just spray the whole thing down with WD40 or brake cleaner (just kidding!), what seems to be the best way to clean the gears on my 1956 CM800 Tender that I recently re-inherited? The service manual (Maerklin%20Service%20Manual.pdf) that was posted here did not mention cleaning the gears at all. Would I just use very small bristle brushes, like artist brushes but stiffer? Does anyone use any cleaner to dissolve old grease/oil?

For oiling, does anyone use something other than the Maerklin 7199 oil mentioned in the service manual? For my other hobbies, I have a reasonable assortment of greases and oils.

I actually have 5 or 6 engines (one has escaped while unpacking from the last move) that may need attention.

Also, from where do people get parts in the USA? The CM800 is in quite good shape for having been stored for 50+ years, but it looks as though it could use new motor brushes and traction tire inserts. I have not yet closely inspected the other locomotives.

Thank you,
Richard

I have used lighter fluid for the longest time to clean gears and the like.
A few drops to soak the gear, let is sit for 10 seconds and use a toothbrush .
Repeat as needed
Check for smooth running, turning the wheels with your fingers after removing the brushes (to avoid excessive stress on the gears)
Always use the **geared side** of the wheels' train , especially on steamers to avoid sync problems in the future
Replace the brushes after test.
Should run like a champ
Cheers
Jacques

Hello,

I had a stock of Märklin oil that lasted me for 20+ years. When it ran out, all my dealer had was Labelle. I've used it for my trains and RC Warships for just as long without problems. I added a couple of bottles of 7149 to a recent order that came in last week. I was about to use it on one of my Loks, when I happened to read Cookie's note about organic lubricants.

Should I find another purpose for the Märklin oil and stick with the Labelle?

Thanks,

I use brake cleaner to clean the gears after removing the motor and reversing unit. Brake cleaner use to be made with carbontetrachloride which is no longer made as it is a hazardous to the lungs
but found that newer brake cleaner now made with tetrachloroethylene. Its still hazardous but I do this in a well ventilated area (outside) . It does do an excellent job of dislodging old oil and grease
and cleaning the gears. I then use compressed air to quickly dry the area completely. I've never seen any damage to the frame paint. I also clean the motor. I remove the brushes and spray down
motor cover, armature, and magnet. Works far better than Q-tips and alcohol. It takes only a minute or two to get clean as a whistle. Again I blow off everything with compressed air. I then will
re-dress the armature with fine 400 grit sanding cloth and a drill motor to spin the armature. Then one final spray down with the brake cleaner to clean the groves in the armature. Then I sparingly oil the gears ( I use 5/20w synthetic motor oil). Very little oil is required. I can't tell you how little oil is needed for the gear shafts. I don't get oil on the gears themselves, as all this does is attract dirt and dust.
The wheels and gears should rotate easily and smoothly. Then I reassemble the motor, and the reversing unit, re-solder the connections, replace the brushes with new ones. That's it ! The motor will run amazingly quietly and smooth. There is no residue of the tetrachloroethylene left behind. One last note, I've found that some of the electronic cleaners work well, but have seen some residue left by
CRC electronic cleaner. Brake cleaner is tetrachloroethylene and carbon dioxide as a propellant and that's all. No residue. If you have rust on your gears you've got a problem that will require further disassembly, and a lot of work. Oh, I almost forgot, remove the motor shaft sump media and clean out the sumps and replace with new media (sponge). Oil Reserve Sponge for Motor/Rotor Bearings
Marlin part number 600660. One drop of oil for each sump is all that is needed. I'll re-oil the sumps about twice a year at the most. " Oily Gears are not Clean Gears " I always mop up residual oil on the gears with Q-Tips as regular maintenance, but find very little on my gears. Keep all electrical parts away from oil. To much oil can ruin a good locomotive fast by gumming up the pinions and gear teeth or getting oil in the motor housing.