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Offline Harvey  
#1 Posted : 13 November 2018 04:56:35(UTC)
Harvey

United States   
Joined: 17/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 569
Location: Glen Oaks, N.Y.


I have several k track which I never used (they are about 25 years of age). My layout is M track only. I plan to use these k track in one area and have questions around electrical connections. For the standard connection to the power source, I have one 2290. If I want to isolate a section (with signals), I am unsure how to create the 'stopping section. On M track it is easy - some electrical tape on the center metal clip. Also, to connect the red wire from the signal (to bring current), to what do I solder this to or attach the wire to? I use reed contacts and assume I can attach those to the k track. This will be a short section and so I won't use blocks but I do want to connect power every so often. I have read that soldering with k track is not easy.

Also, how are k track secured to the board (plywood).

Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

Regards
Harvey
Offline TEEWolf  
#2 Posted : 13 November 2018 06:47:31(UTC)
TEEWolf


Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,465
Originally Posted by: Harvey Go to Quoted Post


I have several k track which I never used (they are about 25 years of age). My layout is M track only. I plan to use these k track in one area and have questions around electrical connections. For the standard connection to the power source, I have one 2290. If I want to isolate a section (with signals), I am unsure how to create the 'stopping section. On M track it is easy - some electrical tape on the center metal clip. Also, to connect the red wire from the signal (to bring current), to what do I solder this to or attach the wire to? I use reed contacts and assume I can attach those to the k track. This will be a short section and so I won't use blocks but I do want to connect power every so often. I have read that soldering with k track is not easy.

Also, how are k track secured to the board (plywood).

Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

Regards
Harvey


I only got C- and M-tracks. But for K- and M-tracks it is similar.

First do you know the 2291 adapter track for M to k tracks?

https://www.maerklin.de/...ts/details/article/2291/

By this adapter you can use M-tracks and K-tracks together. E.g. my driving layout is made by C-tracks and my side yard for train storages is built up by M-tracks. Both are connected via an adapter track from C- to M-tracks. Works perfectly and I even do not have an extra current feeding at the M-track part of the layout. All current comes from the C-track feeding. For toggeling the M-track turnouts you can also use the digital decoder m83.

Second there are insulators as an equivalent for little papers at M-tracks as you know them.

https://www.maerklin.de/..._torrpdb_pi1%5Blang%5D=2


This is Märklins technical tipp #202.

https://www.maerklin.de/...faq/Technik-Tipp-202.pdf

Don't worry even it is only in German. The tipp describes Märklin analogue operations for more than one train. But in this tipp you also see little pictures of all 3 types of tracks insulation, as the center rail has to be seperated. Quite helpful. Isn't it, you are looking for?



Offline hxmiesa  
#3 Posted : 13 November 2018 09:50:03(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,351
Location: Spain
Originally Posted by: Harvey Go to Quoted Post

I have several k track which I never used (they are about 25 years of age). My layout is M track only. I plan to use these k track in one area and have questions around electrical connections. For the standard connection to the power source, I have one 2290. If I want to isolate a section (with signals), I am unsure how to create the 'stopping section. On M track it is easy - some electrical tape on the center metal clip. Also, to connect the red wire from the signal (to bring current), to what do I solder this to or attach the wire to? I use reed contacts and assume I can attach those to the k track. This will be a short section and so I won't use blocks but I do want to connect power every so often. I have read that soldering with k track is not easy.
Also, how are k track secured to the board (plywood).
Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

Your tracks probably use the copper-taps. (orange). These can rust, so be careful if you want to hand-ballast the track later.

To isolate the center-studs, you can use a small plastic-plate that comes with some Märklin semaphores. -But I actually just break/saw off the copper-taps.
There is no easy way to do it, like with the M-track.

K-track is EASY to solder to; For the center studs you can solder to the afforementioned copper-taps. You can also remove some of the black paint on the track´s underside and solder directly to that.
For the rails, the only way to solder is using the track sleeves/shoes. Alternatively you can PRESS a thick wire underneath in between the track and the plastic. -at least if your layout is permament and tracks are fastened.
Finally you CAN actually solder to the nickel-silver style rail, but you need a solder with acid rosin core. Anyway I´ve never done that, nor had the need to do it.
For powering the track, you should solder BOTH rails individually, as they are isolated from each other. For slim switches the rails are isolated too, but not so for the older R2 switches, which gives you a "free" conecction between rails.

K-tracks are screwed down with 1.4mm x 10mm philips headed screws, catalogue number 7599. I use nails in hidden areas.
I havent been able to source any alternative screws :-/

Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
Offline Harvey  
#4 Posted : 13 November 2018 15:48:48(UTC)
Harvey

United States   
Joined: 17/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 569
Location: Glen Oaks, N.Y.
Top of K track.jpg Bottom view

Top of K track.jpg Top view

ot sure these images will appear.

I am unsure which copper tabs are the current (center rail) and ground. Assume the two inner tabs from the bottom view are for current. Even so, what do I do to create an isolated section or attach a wire? On the bottom of some k track I see a small hole in the plastic, one hole is under the rail and one hole is just next to the center rail. Does one solder here? But wouldn't the plastic melt?


I do have 2291 (converter tracks). However, my intension is to only use k track for a line connecting two small villages (no M track for this).

Harvey
Offline PMPeter  
#5 Posted : 13 November 2018 16:13:45(UTC)
PMPeter

Canada   
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1,205
Location: Port Moody, BC
Harvey,

On K track, the bottom black plate that is below the ties and has the pukos going through the ties is the centre rail. The ends of that plate end in the two little copper tabs underneath each rail at each end. These little copper tabs are separated from the rails above them by a small layer of plastic.

The rails are your "ground" connection. The rails are SS so as previously mentioned they are hard to solder to unless you use some acid flux. Therefore the easiest solder point for the rails is the rail joiner. For soldering a feeder wire to the K track I usually do that near a connection so that I can solder the brown wire to the rail joiner and I scrape off the black paint on the bottom plate nearby to solder the red wire to. I always solder my joined K tracks together at the copper connecting tabs.

Peter
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Offline Harvey  
#6 Posted : 13 November 2018 16:35:59(UTC)
Harvey

United States   
Joined: 17/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 569
Location: Glen Oaks, N.Y.
Peter

Thanks

I had included 2 pictures of the top view.

Here is the bottom view Bottom of K track.jpg

My understanding is that all 4 copper pieces are feeding the center rail (O connection) and the rail is the return (B). I can solder the red wire to either of the 4 copper tabs (and also the small piece of copper exposed on the first tie. I can solder the brown wire to the rial joiner, specifically the side of the rail.

On the question of isolation, it seems very difficult to use electrical tape on those small tabs. Also, appears difficult to cut the small tabs. Does one cut (from below) the first tie and break the copper tab?

Regards
Harvey
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Offline PMPeter  
#7 Posted : 13 November 2018 19:00:32(UTC)
PMPeter

Canada   
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1,205
Location: Port Moody, BC
Harvey,

For the isolation I suggest you use the Marklin Isolators 7522 that are designed for this. However, these would have to be installed at the opposite end to the end where you are connecting the feeder wire. These isolators work with the copper tabs splitting one above and one below the plastic with the joining track splitting in the opposite direction so that all 4 contacts on each track are isolated.

Obviously cutting the tabs off of each track with a pair of side cutters would work, but then you cannot use those tracks for anything else in the future without additional soldering. With the 7522 pieces you don't have this constraint.

Peter
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Offline Harvey  
#8 Posted : 13 November 2018 19:33:10(UTC)
Harvey

United States   
Joined: 17/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 569
Location: Glen Oaks, N.Y.
Peter

Again, thanks for the help.

Regards
Harvey
Offline blid  
#9 Posted : 14 November 2018 11:16:13(UTC)
blid

Sweden   
Joined: 02/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 196
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Post #6

Quote:
My understanding is that all 4 copper pieces are feeding the center rail (O connection) and the rail is the return (B).


Please correct me if I am wrong but isn't it:

Power=B=red=center studs
Ground=0=brown=rails

For digital it matters.

blid
CS2, 60215, 4x60174, C-tracks, LDT HSI-88, TC Gold. OneGauge Marklin and MTH, ESU ECoS 2.1 on LGB tracks. MTH 3-rail 0-gauge, DCS on GarGraves tracks. Z: Rokuhan tracks, analog or DCC+TC.
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Offline H0  
#10 Posted : 14 November 2018 11:24:02(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 14,603
Location: DE-NW
Hi!
Originally Posted by: blid Go to Quoted Post
Power=B=red=center studs
Ground=0=brown=rails
That's correct. B is not brown.

Originally Posted by: blid Go to Quoted Post
For digital it matters.
For analogue it matters, too. For older digital decoders it matters more than for newer ones.

Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
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Offline torhb  
#11 Posted : 14 November 2018 16:48:15(UTC)
torhb


Joined: 08/11/2001(UTC)
Posts: 38
Location: Oppegård,
Hi Harvey.

The copper tabs feed the center rail and is the B connection where the red wire goes. The running rails are the return (ground) which is the 0 connection with the brown wires, one to each rail.

Regards
Tor
Tor Harald Bøhler
Oppegård, Norway
Offline DaleSchultz  
#12 Posted : 14 November 2018 18:12:03(UTC)
DaleSchultz

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,997
this may also help as it shows soldering onto K-track

https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com/2005/07/laying-k-track.html
Dale
Intellibox + own software, K-Track
My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com
Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
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