I have several k track which I never used (they are about 25 years of age). My layout is M track only. I plan to use these k track in one area and have questions around electrical connections. For the standard connection to the power source, I have one 2290. If I want to isolate a section (with signals), I am unsure how to create the 'stopping section. On M track it is easy - some electrical tape on the center metal clip. Also, to connect the red wire from the signal (to bring current), to what do I solder this to or attach the wire to? I use reed contacts and assume I can attach those to the k track. This will be a short section and so I won't use blocks but I do want to connect power every so often. I have read that soldering with k track is not easy.

Also, how are k track secured to the board (plywood).

Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

Regards
Harvey

Your tracks probably use the copper-taps. (orange). These can rust, so be careful if you want to hand-ballast the track later.

To isolate the center-studs, you can use a small plastic-plate that comes with some Märklin semaphores. -But I actually just break/saw off the copper-taps.
There is no easy way to do it, like with the M-track.

K-track is EASY to solder to; For the center studs you can solder to the afforementioned copper-taps. You can also remove some of the black paint on the track´s underside and solder directly to that.
For the rails, the only way to solder is using the track sleeves/shoes. Alternatively you can PRESS a thick wire underneath in between the track and the plastic. -at least if your layout is permament and tracks are fastened.
Finally you CAN actually solder to the nickel-silver style rail, but you need a solder with acid rosin core. Anyway I´ve never done that, nor had the need to do it.
For powering the track, you should solder BOTH rails individually, as they are isolated from each other. For slim switches the rails are isolated too, but not so for the older R2 switches, which gives you a "free" conecction between rails.

K-tracks are screwed down with 1.4mm x 10mm philips headed screws, catalogue number 7599. I use nails in hidden areas.
I havent been able to source any alternative screws :-/

Harvey,

On K track, the bottom black plate that is below the ties and has the pukos going through the ties is the centre rail. The ends of that plate end in the two little copper tabs underneath each rail at each end. These little copper tabs are separated from the rails above them by a small layer of plastic.

The rails are your "ground" connection. The rails are SS so as previously mentioned they are hard to solder to unless you use some acid flux. Therefore the easiest solder point for the rails is the rail joiner. For soldering a feeder wire to the K track I usually do that near a connection so that I can solder the brown wire to the rail joiner and I scrape off the black paint on the bottom plate nearby to solder the red wire to. I always solder my joined K tracks together at the copper connecting tabs.

Peter

Harvey,

For the isolation I suggest you use the Marklin Isolators 7522 that are designed for this. However, these would have to be installed at the opposite end to the end where you are connecting the feeder wire. These isolators work with the copper tabs splitting one above and one below the plastic with the joining track splitting in the opposite direction so that all 4 contacts on each track are isolated.

Obviously cutting the tabs off of each track with a pair of side cutters would work, but then you cannot use those tracks for anything else in the future without additional soldering. With the 7522 pieces you don't have this constraint.

Peter

Post #6



Please correct me if I am wrong but isn't it:

Power=B=red=center studs
Ground=0=brown=rails

For digital it matters.

blid

Hi Harvey.

The copper tabs feed the center rail and is the B connection where the red wire goes. The running rails are the return (ground) which is the 0 connection with the brown wires, one to each rail.

Regards
Tor