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Offline Alko  
#1 Posted : 25 September 2018 08:08:05(UTC)
Alko

United States   
Joined: 11/07/2018(UTC)
Posts: 10
Location: Arizona
Hello!

I have been recently adding some locomotives to my collection, Lately I have acquired 3 5-pole locomotives(new): 81701 Starter kit, 88784 and 88166, I assume these locomotives are ready to use as soon as they come out of the box, but is there any proper break in method?

Also I am using the starter kit pack ( tracks + controller) I have noticed that the trains run at different speeds, for example the 88784 won't start moving until the knob is at around 100(front or back, Im guessing this has to do with the weight as it is heavy), the one in the starter kit starts at around 50-100(front or back, sometimes it runs at 50 and then it stops until you turn the knob up, this is a light locomotive), the 88166 starts moving at 50 forward and backwards at 100(which is weird because at 100 backwards does the same speed as 50 forward, but as soon as you turn the dial more the speed catches up, this one is the lightest of the 3), is this normal? Shouldn't they all start moving as soon as the dial is turned? shouldn't they move at the same speed if the knob is at the same number in either direction?

What's the point of the numbers on top of the knob? I thought they would mean kph? I noticed none of my trains will move at all if the knob is pointing at anything less than 50.

I'll leave you to some pictures of my locomotives

Starter Kit

88784

88166
Offline Bahner  
#2 Posted : 25 September 2018 16:06:45(UTC)
Bahner

United States   
Joined: 18/11/2017(UTC)
Posts: 166
Location: California, East Bay
With any new locomotive (actually new or bought used) I apply oil as indicated per the documentation. I then run the locomotive for a hour or so both forwards and backwards as I'm mainly looking for any running issues. After that, I just follow the re-oiling maintenance schedule provided in the documentation.

For analog setups, when an individual locomotive actually starts to move from a dead stop is dependent on a number of factors such as electrical connection condition (clean or dirty wheels/track), type of motor, weight, track slope, etc.), so that's why you can have different results for each. The transformer numbers are there to act as a reference guide. Similar thing for locomotives with built in front and/or rear lighting as some will light up adequately at lower speed, some at higher speed.


Ralph.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Bahner
Offline zscalehobo  
#3 Posted : 25 September 2018 20:28:31(UTC)
zscalehobo

United States   
Joined: 22/01/2014(UTC)
Posts: 186
Location: CALIFORNIA, Irvine
Hi Alko:

You got some really awesome Marklin Z sets!

81701's diesellok is a vertical-mounted 5-pole motor in an 0-6-0 locomotive. Due to weight and wheels ... It has very little connection to the rails.

88784 is a Bo-Bo (2 x 2-axle trucks) locomotive and has good connection, but is a basic 5-pole 211xxx series motor (Marklin standard from 2001 onward)

88166 is a 2 axle railbus that has the newest motor (post 2017). 2 axles will have smaller amounts of conductivity.

As you can see these factors will influence how current is applied to each motor and how they turn on. The motors all are vastly different to each other and have differing running characteristics.

While I agree with Bahner about replacing oil on older Marklin locos (new or used OLD STOCK), I do not change oils or lubricate right away on new units. But you should follow their advice about lubrication if the unit is bone dry or runs warm. I also do not follow Marklin's advice to use their 7149 oil and I stick to Atlas 192 conductalube or Labelle 108 ONLY. The 7149 is too watery for z scale and gets all over the place (I know people are using it when I receive oil-soaked locomotives for repair!). And these oils (Labell 108 and Atlas 192) I use in very very very sparingly amounts. Get a needle dropper and apply 1/4 drops to gears.
Frank Daniels
Owner - z.scale.hobo
A Noch "Top Dealer"
Marklin Dealer and Z Locomotive Service
Irvine, California, USA
www.zscalehobo.com
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by zscalehobo
Offline Bahner  
#4 Posted : 26 September 2018 04:03:31(UTC)
Bahner

United States   
Joined: 18/11/2017(UTC)
Posts: 166
Location: California, East Bay
Originally Posted by: zscalehobo Go to Quoted Post
Hi Alko:

You got some really awesome Marklin Z sets!

81701's diesellok is a vertical-mounted 5-pole motor in an 0-6-0 locomotive. Due to weight and wheels ... It has very little connection to the rails.

88784 is a Bo-Bo (2 x 2-axle trucks) locomotive and has good connection, but is a basic 5-pole 211xxx series motor (Marklin standard from 2001 onward)

88166 is a 2 axle railbus that has the newest motor (post 2017). 2 axles will have smaller amounts of conductivity.

As you can see these factors will influence how current is applied to each motor and how they turn on. The motors all are vastly different to each other and have differing running characteristics.

While I agree with Bahner about replacing oil on older Marklin locos (new or used OLD STOCK), I do not change oils or lubricate right away on new units. But you should follow their advice about lubrication if the unit is bone dry or runs warm. I also do not follow Marklin's advice to use their 7149 oil and I stick to Atlas 192 conductalube or Labelle 108 ONLY. The 7149 is too watery for z scale and gets all over the place (I know people are using it when I receive oil-soaked locomotives for repair!). And these oils (Labell 108 and Atlas 192) I use in very very very sparingly amounts. Get a needle dropper and apply 1/4 drops to gears.


Really good info! I tend to be very sparing when applying oil as it's really easy to over oil these N and Z small scale trains.


Ralph.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Bahner
Offline Poor Skeleton  
#5 Posted : 26 September 2018 22:25:06(UTC)
Poor Skeleton

United Kingdom   
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC)
Posts: 550
Location: England, Cambridge
I have found there's quite a bit of variation between locomotives both in their maximum speed and the point at which they start to move. Generally, I have found steam locomotives to be the smoothest runners at low speed in comparison to bogie diesels, anyway. It's also not unusual for a locomotive to run more smoothly in one direction than the other. Surprisingly this is even true of bogie diesels which are, to all intents and purposes, symmetrical.

As you have discovered, the scale on Marklin controllers is entirely arbitrary and bears no relation to the actual speed! I have to say, I'm not very keen on the Marklin controller - the control is very granular. For my own layout I have built my own controllers, to a similar design to Marklin's but giving infinitely variable control which I find much more satisfactory.

I have also tried the "Snail" controllers and generic PWM motor controllers both of which give excellent slow running control. Unfortunately, the acceleration with these controllers is not very smooth and there is a sudden increase/decrease in speed at the point a regular controller would get a locomotive moving. I'm still trying to concoct a hybrid controller that gives the same slow running performance but smooth acceleration, but I fear I am fighting the laws of physics!
Offline Alko  
#6 Posted : 27 September 2018 08:47:00(UTC)
Alko

United States   
Joined: 11/07/2018(UTC)
Posts: 10
Location: Arizona
Thank you everyone for your kind responses!!
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