Welcome to the forum   
Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Share
Options
View
Go to last post in this topic Go to first unread post in this topic
Offline fje  
#1 Posted : 07 February 2017 23:45:44(UTC)
fje

Spain   
Joined: 14/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 122
Location: Madrid
Hello, I am planning to digitalize a Märklin 3338, an SBB 6/6, and in the process, to change the bulb and diffuser it has and put three leds, in order to implement the "swiss lights" and also have a separate control of the main light.

The problem I find is that, once I have the body out, I find some kind of interior cabin body that I don't know how to take it out, even having dismounted also the roof.

And without dismounting the "cabin" I cannot take out the difusser and put the main light led. I tried to forcé it out, but I didn't too much force because I am afraid of breaking ot.

Does anyone know how I could dismount completely the internat body of the cabin?

Thanks and kind regards.

Javier
Offline mike c  
#2 Posted : 08 February 2017 05:33:56(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 7,880
Location: Montreal, QC
Hi Javier,

I have quite a few of the Ae 6/6. I think that most of them still have light bulbs. I did not check my most recent 37360. The model is designed with two bulbs and provides two lights on in forward direction and one on in reverse, which gets diffused through the light on the bottom right (when viewed from the rear). In order to replace the bulb with LEDs, you just have to swap out the assembly with the bulbs, which is mounted on the chassis. If you want to install LEDs directly into the headlight cutouts, you will need to remove the paper shield, the plastic diffuser. I am trying to remember whether the locomotive also has a metal cover over the light channel. The light diffuser is fitted between the green plastic cab interior part and the metal body. In order to remove the light diffuser, you will likely have to extract the entire cab assembly.

The original models (3336/3338/3337/3339) and their digital versions had a dual system, with a separate module for the Swiss lighting changeover. On the 3338, if you are converting to digital, you will have to replace the original setup, which used the chassis for the brown (return) with a dual wire connection directly to the decoder outputs. My 3638 like many of the older digital models had an issue with flickering lights in digital use. My solution was to find a locomotive from a Startset at a very good price and then I swapped the chassis, leaving me with a modern decoder and digital capable lights for a less than 100 EUR investment.

See here: http://www.jaray.ch/eisenbahn/mae_3336_ae_6_6.htm
Also: http://www.perfect-light...maerklin/maerklin-ae-6-6
http://web-hgh-moba.de/p.../830-lbp-ae-6-6-maerklin
http://web-hgh-moba.de/i.../722-3x38-ae-6-6-der-sbb

Regards

Mike C
Offline ktsolias  
#3 Posted : 08 February 2017 08:32:23(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 609
Location: Athens
Javier

Is very easy to open the cabin in the 3338 and 3336 (are identical).
First you have to take off the screws that keep the roof cover on the body. With the roof away the cabins are open....and you can take of the thin metal with a small screwdriver carefully...

Be careful with the small black cardboard in both side on the light lenses. This does the separation of the lights for the Swiss light system.
When you finish you must put it back exactly where it was.

If you are still interesting I will post some photos

Costas


thanks 1 user liked this useful post by ktsolias
Offline fje  
#4 Posted : 08 February 2017 10:37:19(UTC)
fje

Spain   
Joined: 14/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 122
Location: Madrid
Hello, Costas and Mike.

Thanks so much for your quick answers.

Let me explain my doubts. As Costas said, there is a small black paper separating both buls in order to do the "white swiss lights". If I digitalize maintaining the bulbs, I will have the "swiss lights" (black white) solved.

But I do want to do a couple of additional things, that need to change the two bulbs for three leds. First, be able to also put the red black swiss light, for what I already have a small diodes circuit. Second, to have a separate control of the main light, in order to light on it only when the lok start driving (I use for it the programmation facility of the ESU lokpilot V4). Some of the ideas came to me looking to some of the links yyou propossed, Mike, specially the hgt one. The others I didn' knew, I will look to them carefully for some other ideas, thanks for it, Mike.

For doing it, I need to take out the internal cabin:

IMG_20170208_094328_2.jpg

As Costas said, opening the roof, one can find a couple of points that seems to be the ones to be moved to have the cabin falling down:

IMG_20170208_094617_2.jpg

Of course the black paper has to be taken out and it is very easy to do it. But then my question is how could I take out the cabin wthout breaking the diffuser that seems to go thru the three light holes, the two lower ones seems to be not difficult, but I don't see any access to the upper, main, one

IMG_20170208_094633_2.jpg

Thanks for your help.

Javier

Javier
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by fje
Offline jvuye  
#5 Posted : 08 February 2017 14:11:07(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
HI!
After removing the black piece of card, (remember how it was arranged..take a pic Wink ) you have to **carefully** pull the plastic transparent headlights inserts from the body.
However you must first **tilt** the cabin insert backwards
I will post a couple of pics in a few minutes
Push the one insert on the top center from the outside, all the while pulling from the inside with an X-acto thin blade . Be patient and make sure they all come out more or less evenly...don't break them!

Good luck and show us the results when you're done!!Smile
Cheers
Jacques
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
Offline fje  
#6 Posted : 08 February 2017 14:28:59(UTC)
fje

Spain   
Joined: 14/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 122
Location: Madrid
Originally Posted by: jvuye Go to Quoted Post
HI!
After removing the black piece of card, (remember how it was arranged..take a pic Wink ) you have to **carefully** pull the plastic transparent headlights inserts from the body.
However you must first **tilt** the cabin insert backwards
I will post a couple of pics in a few minutes


Thanks, Jacques, this part I presumed it was the way to do it, and does not seem to be difficult.

Quote:
Push the one insert on the top center from the outside, all the while pulling from the inside with an X-acto thin blade . Be patient and make sure they all come out more or less evenly...don't break them!


This is the part more difficult I feel. I don't see how to reach the top center diffuser from inside, even having taken out the roof. I will wait for you pictures, to see if they clarify it to me.

Quote:
Good luck and show us the results when you're done!!Smile
Cheers
Jacques


Of course, I will do if I have success, but probably I will not do the full work till a couple of days...

Thanks, Merci, again.

Javier
Offline jvuye  
#7 Posted : 08 February 2017 14:33:35(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Here are two pics.
Hopê this helps

MA6-6-1.jpg

MA6-6-2.jpg
Cheers
Jacques
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
Offline jvuye  
#8 Posted : 08 February 2017 14:37:38(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: fje Go to Quoted Post


Quote:
Push the one insert on the top center from the outside, all the while pulling from the inside with an X-acto thin blade . Be patient and make sure they all come out more or less evenly...don't break them!


This is the part more difficult I feel. I don't see how to reach the top center diffuser from inside, even having taken out the roof. I will wait for you pictures, to see if they clarify it to me.



Put the x-acto blade between the light conduit and the windshield, and twist...gently! Cool

Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
Offline Robert Davies  
#9 Posted : 08 February 2017 14:47:47(UTC)
Robert Davies

United Kingdom   
Joined: 20/11/2010(UTC)
Posts: 426
Location: Worcestershire, UK
This is a very timely thread which I will follow with interest as I am about to acquire a 3337 and want to upgrade it to 5-pole motor, Mfx and sound, with Swiss light change. I am less worried about replacing the bulbs with LED's but will do so if it is easy.

fje - which decoder and motor have you chosen?
Robert
Era III - IV
2 x Central Station 2 v.2 (60214 + 60215)
Hardware versions 3.6 / 4.33
Software version 4.2.1 (0)
Offline ktsolias  
#10 Posted : 08 February 2017 15:47:24(UTC)
ktsolias

Greece   
Joined: 01/05/2016(UTC)
Posts: 609
Location: Athens
Its actually very simple:

Look the photos:

IMG_13084_resize.JPG

Put the screwdriver there and push gently

IMG_13086_resize.JPG

Done !!!!

IMG_13087_resize.JPG

With a fine tweezers take off the lens.

IMG_13088_resize.JPG

I recommend 60941 motor (the only possibility for 5 pole)

Decoder:

60972 without sound
60977 with sound

ESU etc can done the job as well

Be careful with the Swiss light change over. (The 62225 PCB need different connections for Digital operation)
Is not easy especially if you want red taillight as well.

I can give you solutions that I have try and work if you are in trouble

Keep us informed how things are going...

Costas
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by ktsolias
Offline fje  
#11 Posted : 08 February 2017 16:17:08(UTC)
fje

Spain   
Joined: 14/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 122
Location: Madrid
Hi, Costas, thanks so much, you discovered me how to do it!!!! It has to be done starting from one of the sides .... of the bottom !!!!! This was my problem, I didn't see how to take off that part... Thanks, thanks so much, ευχαριστώ πολύ!!!!.

I will try to follow your guide and keep you posted of it.

Robert, I am very glad of having started this thread that can be of interest to several other people. My idea is not to change the motor (really the current one it is working OK, even I know that a five pole would be a fantastic change), but the only thing I will change is the stator for a permanent magnet and, of course a decoder and leds.

I will use the 64632 set of ESU, it includes a lokpilot V4M4, that not only will give me facility of controlling the white and red swiss lights, but also a control of the main light. My idea is to use the CVs programming facility that decoder has for implementing the same thing I did with another loks, that is, F0 lights on the lower lights and ONLY when the lok start driving forward, the main light switches on, and more brilliant than the lower ones....

I have a circuit for the white/red swiss lights, using only diodes and one of the leds bicolor red/white (looking front the lower/right one) and I also have the CVs programming details of the lokpilot for the case anyone needs any of them. I don't know if the Märklin decoders suggested by Costas have such CVs programming facility that the ESU ones have.

Finally, Robert, should you want to change also the motor, I would suggest the same Costas suggests, that I also was suggested by a good friend, use the Märklin 60941.

Thanks again to all of you that posted in this thread, and I will try to have it updated with what I will do in the coming days.

Kind regards.

thanks 2 users liked this useful post by fje
Offline fje  
#12 Posted : 08 February 2017 17:39:35(UTC)
fje

Spain   
Joined: 14/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 122
Location: Madrid
I DID IT LOL !!!!

This pic is mine and my lok... BigGrin

IMG_20170208_170543_2.jpg

Thanks again, Σας ευχαριστώ πολύ και πάλι, Κώστας, merci, Jacques (your pic was a bit unfocused and, thus I didn't understand what exactly to do, but now I can see you were the first giving the cue Blink ), and also thanks, Mike.

Now the big work of digitalize is to be started. Probably I will not do it before next week as a friend of mine wants to be present in order to look how I do it... I am not the best teacher, I should say, (my hand work is not "fine" enough), but, at least he will see the procedures to follow, and... I don't feel we will be able to have joint time this week.

Anyway, I will keep this thread updated and, should any of you want more information about the red/white swiss lights diode circuit or the lokpilot V4 programming for the main light effect, don't hesitate to contact me either this thread or by a private message.

Kind regards to everyone.

Javier
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by fje
Offline mike c  
#13 Posted : 09 February 2017 03:21:20(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 7,880
Location: Montreal, QC
Did you check out the website that I gave the link to (http://web-hgh-moba.de/platinen/beleuchtung/fuer-lokomotiven/ch-schweiz/830-lbp-ae-6-6-maerklin)?

They seem to offer a LED panel that would solve your issue

Regards

Mike C
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by mike c
Offline fje  
#14 Posted : 09 February 2017 08:41:21(UTC)
fje

Spain   
Joined: 14/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 122
Location: Madrid
Yes, Mike, thanks, I did (the one in the last post returns an http 500 error, the one in your first post is OK). It is one of the ones I already looked at when I started to plan the difitalization of my 3338.

My final panel will not be the same for two reasons, I don't have a way to do such panels, I use "strip printed circuits", and second, they use SMD leds, what I am not used to use.

Additionally, I plan to take out the diffuser and put leds directly instead of it, so, I have my oun panel with cables that go to the leds possition...

As I will be doing the work, I will be taking pics of how I will do it and updating this thread, it could also be another idea to do it....

Javier
Offline jvuye  
#15 Posted : 09 February 2017 18:29:12(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: fje Go to Quoted Post
Yes, Mike, thanks, I did (the one in the last post returns an http 500 error, the one in your first post is OK). It is one of the ones I already looked at when I started to plan the difitalization of my 3338.

My final panel will not be the same for two reasons, I don't have a way to do such panels, I use "strip printed circuits", and second, they use SMD leds, what I am not used to use.

Additionally, I plan to take out the diffuser and put leds directly instead of it, so, I have my oun panel with cables that go to the leds possition...

As I will be doing the work, I will be taking pics of how I will do it and updating this thread, it could also be another idea to do it....

Javier


Excellent . Happy it worked out.
In any case, if you ever break the diffuser I have a couple of these in reserve....
With about 16 copies of these Ae 6/6 in my inventory, I do have to keep some spares parts!
That's the only way to run a railroad: spares! Laugh Cool
Looking forward to see the results of your conversion.
Cheers
Jacques
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by jvuye
Offline fje  
#16 Posted : 09 February 2017 21:50:22(UTC)
fje

Spain   
Joined: 14/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 122
Location: Madrid
Merci, Jacques, I will take a note of your offer... Hopefully I will not need it, and maybe, if finally I put leds instead of bulbs and diffuser, you can count with mines :) :)

I will not start before Wednesday next week, but as soon the work is going on, I will try to keep this very helpfull thread posted...

Best regards.
Offline fje  
#17 Posted : 10 February 2017 10:49:10(UTC)
fje

Spain   
Joined: 14/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 122
Location: Madrid
Just starting the digitalization plan of work I discovered one problem that forces me to make a decisión between different alternatives:

Problem: The decoder I have and plan to use (ESU kit 64632) only have 4 functions: head and rear lights, AUX1 and AUX2.

I need AUX1 and AUX2 to be used for choose between white or red swiss lights OR light on/off the main light depending of the drive on/off of the lok.

So, the alternatives are:

1.- Forget about the independent main light to be on when the lok starts driving or off when it is stopped, and have it switched on always when the head lights are on, maybe more brilliant, but jointly with the lower lights.

2.- Forget about the red rear swiss light and use only the white rear swiss light, connected to the head lower lights, this way I can switch on/off the main light using the programming facility of the V4 decoder when the lok starts driving.

3.- Connect the rear swiss lights (red/white) with the ESU V4 programming of the main light. This way the only problem is that the rear swiss light only sitches on when the lok is driving.

I would like to get suggestions, but I understand this has to be a different thread with a different name, so I will open a new one and use this post as first one of it.

The new thread opened for the following digitalizing/swiss lights decissions and work is:

https://www.marklin-user...-swiss-lights#post539774

Anyway, should arise any additional comments related to the opening/dismounting work of the 3338, it should be put in this current post, I think

Kind regards.

Javier
Users browsing this topic
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

| Powered by YAF.NET | YAF.NET © 2003-2024, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.583 seconds.