Stainless steel track is probably best for use outside, although the Marklin stainless steel track does have issues with power conductance which is caused by the track joints. The track clips that Marklin sell don't help all that much. In fact manufacturers such as KM-1 recommend that you do not use the stainless steel track with their KM-1 locos, especially the large, heavy steam locos. The KM-1's can draw serious amounts of current, and if the track doesn't conduct all that well it can lead to boosters not detecting shorts but rather they keep on trying to deliver more power. I know this from experience, having had the pickup wiring in my KM-1 loco burn out due to this very problem.

KM-1 have their own track, and Marklin also sell the track previously made by Hubner. Peco also make and sell G1 track. All of these track types contain a percentage of nickel which helps in conductivity but may not last that well if used outside.

KM-1 track: http://www.km-1.de/html/gleise.html

Peco track: http://www.hattons.co.uk...32_Scale_/spec_list.aspx

Marklin / Hubner track: http://www.maerklin.de/e...ucts/gauge-1/railtracks/

Ok. Apparently the ideal for exterior is stainless steel, although of lower conductivity than brass, does not rust. That could be corrected with more feeders.
Sunset valley track has stainless steel, lots of switches, but I still can not find anyone using marklin on those tracks. They are code 250. On youtube I have seen Peco and Tenmille. I just saw the page of KM 1, very beautiful and apparently recommended for outdoor (have UV stabilizer), but at a higher cost, although I must see the German translator better. I imagine they are code 200, which I think would leave me out of the way material from other scales.

Per, do Peco produce G1 curved track and flex track? There's no reference that I can find on the Hattons website.

I know Andreas at KM1 regards the Peco track as being a bit soft, as big heavy locos can wear it out. However we have been using Peco track on our club modular layout with no issues.

No curved tracks, only straight/flex and turnouts L+R.

You even have to cut the sleepers on the tracks yourself, to make them fit on the turnouts.

( Like having Märklin 24711; but no 24071. )

If asked PECO if the could do a "transition-piece"; but no. ( They only needed to do the sleepers. )

I've also asked if we could expect them to make a crossing; also no.

And I also asked if I could buy the tracks in 2 or 3 meters; but no.

I don't think a heavy loco can wear the tracks out; but they are not as stiff as Märklin-track.

Per.

A rail bender is not necessary; but it makes everything easier and nicer.

I usually take the tracks apart, and bend each rail individually.

I've made my own track bender, just an old vice with 3 plastic wheels on:





I use the PECO rail joiners.

Per.

I think they are fine

They are radius 10 feet and looks very prototypical to me.

Only small locos needs to have power to the "frog", I have not yet used power on mine.

Per.

I would really like to see a picture from the side, instead of from above; or an accurate measurement of the height of new vs old tracks.

Per.

OK, my understanding / definition of "worn" is that the profile gets lower and lower, or the edges are rounded.

On the top track it looks like the tracks have been damaged / bend during transport, which I don't think the PECO quality should be blamed for.

Also, I would rather have the tracks to be a bit softer than the wheels on my rolling stock, than the opposite.

Per.

Well, that wasn't what I meant you did, and I'm not trying to promote PECO.

I'm just trying to find out if you have experienced something I haven't seen.

Per.