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Märklin V36 - "Doppeltes Lottchen" (37355) - Maxon Motor!
 Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 683
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Hello, my new project is the Märklin V36 in double traction, called "Doppeltes Lottchen.  1st Step: Ball Bearings1st I removed the plastic bearing and replaced with a miniature ball bearing:  The motor shield will follow later. 2nd Step: LED front / rear lightFor the LED front / rear lights, I bought complete circuit boards ( LBP-V36-2F-DL):  You have to remove the original fiber optics and replace with a short fiber optic. This is not yet done. 3rd Step: Activate AUX1/2 for rear lightI hope (and it lokks like) that I can solder additional cables to use AUX1/2 of the Esu LokSound decoder to switch the red rear lights separately.   Here, I marked out the connector pins for AUX 1/2, ready connected on the interface circuit board:   Edited by user 14 April 2016 13:17:32(UTC)
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 7 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
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 Joined: 09/04/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,343 Location: Southwest Ohio
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Well look at that, someone makes a circuit board for the V36 lights. I fabricated something identical in shape and function for my double unit and the one from set 26577. A set with a control car that changed lamps based on direction of travel certainly needed a loko at the other end with the same function. For connection to the wires, I soldered the ends from resisitors to the wires and then colorcoded the existing individual lamp socket connections with a dab of paint to match the wire colors. The resisitor leads plug neatly into the lamp sockets and you do not have to rewire the loko. |
Matt
Era 3
DB lokos, coaches and freight cars from across Europe
But I do have the obligatory (six) SBB Krocs
ECoS 50200, all FX and MFX decoders replaced with ESU V4s, operated in DCC-RailCom+ with ABC brake control.
With the exception of the passenger wagens with Marklin current conducting couplers, all close couplers have been replaced with Roco 40397. |
1 user liked this useful post by biedmatt
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 Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway
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Originally Posted by: Moritz-BR365  Hello, my new project is the Märklin V36 in double traction, called "Doppeltes Lottchen. 1st Step: Ball Bearings1st I removed the plastic bearing and replaced with a miniature ball bearing: The motor shield will follow later. 2nd Step: LED front / rear lightFor the LED front / rear lights, I bought complete circuit boards: You have to remove the original fiber optics and replace with a short fiber optic. This is not yet done. 3rd Step: Activate AUX1/2 for rear lightI hope (and it lokks like) that I can solder additional cables to use AUX1/2 of the Esu LokSound decoder to switch the red rear lights separately. Who makes and sell those circuit boards? can you please inform us? |
Best regards Svein, Norway
grumpy old sod
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1 user liked this useful post by intruder
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Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 683
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Originally Posted by: intruder Who makes and sell those circuit boards? can you please inform us?
You can obtain these circuit boards from here: http://www.web-hgh-moba....ard/119-lbp-v36-maerklinThere are different versions for single V36 and for the double traction, that needs two front boards but no rear one. For the "Doppelte Lottchen", You need this one: ( LBP-V36-2F-DL) It is a private homepage and not commercial, very friendly contact. But sometimes, it needs some time to get a response. Don't worry about that  Edited by user 07 May 2014 22:37:56(UTC)
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4 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
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Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 683
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Added picture with marked solder points for AUX 1/2: |
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3 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
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Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 683
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3 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
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Joined: 08/06/2002(UTC)
Posts: 1,843
Location: Norway
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Originally Posted by: Moritz-BR365 I did send him an e-mail 3 days ago but no response,,, I think it would actually be possible with these light PCB's and a small speaker where the original lights are to make a single V-36 / 236 with loksound dekoder,,, |
Pål Paulsen
Märklin Spur 1 Digital, epoche 3 |
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Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 683
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Hello Pal,
I can talk to him. He has some problems with bis knee. So maybe he has not time to answer. It's only private not commercial.
Yes, with a small speaker You can use free space for a sound decoder. There is much space under the case.
Moritz |
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1 user liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
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Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 683
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1st test of lights with fiber optic mountedThe LED circuit boards came with a few centimeter flexible fiber optics. You just have to cut small parts and plug into the headlight. This fiber optic is not really limpid but a bit opaque. Therefore, it looks different to the limpid original fiber optics:     The red lights look wrong on the pictures, my digital cam can't take pictures from red LED light. The look is a bit dull, because the fiber optic is not bright clear. It will look probably better, when I cut the end of the original fiber optic instead of this dull one, which is delivered with the LED circuit boards. So far, I avoid to cut the original fiber optics to be able to restore the original state. But maybe, I should change this point of view and use the material from the original fiber optics. I don't think, that I will restore the original state. What do You think? Edited by user 07 May 2014 08:20:33(UTC)
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3 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
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Joined: 08/06/2002(UTC)
Posts: 1,843
Location: Norway
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Hi Moritz,
Why not try With the original one's just to see if it is getting brighter ? (if possible) |
Pål Paulsen
Märklin Spur 1 Digital, epoche 3 |
1 user liked this useful post by pa-pauls
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Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 683
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Hello Pal,
Yes, I should try it. I was not sure, If I should really destroy the original fiber optics, because then there is no way back. On the other side, I will not restore to the old bulb lights. So, it should be OK to cut the original ones and use the front elements of them, only.
I will give it a try.
It is less the brightness then more it is because of clearness or limpid look of the original ones. It los better then the flexible fiber optics. |
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Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 683
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Here we go!Today, 1st I changed the fiber optic to the original ones. I cutted the end of the three fiber optic lines and put them with a little bit glue stick into the holes. It looks much better!  Then I soldered a male plug onto the end of the LED circuit board cables:    And the female onto the mtc21-adapter. The orange cable is in the middle. Therefore, You can't plug wrong with damage, You just can change between white lights and red lights:  First test with digital current and case up:    Looks good, I can close the case: Finally, I have to map and configure the decoder. But for this, I need a Märklin CS2. So I have to ask a friend.And of course, the same must be done for the other V36, too. But now, I have the experience from the first one and the mtc21-adapter is ready, so it will not be a huge task to do this. |
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7 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
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Joined: 08/06/2002(UTC)
Posts: 1,843
Location: Norway
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Looks very good Moritz ! Good work !  |
Pål Paulsen
Märklin Spur 1 Digital, epoche 3 |
1 user liked this useful post by pa-pauls
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Joined: 23/10/2010(UTC)
Posts: 45
Location: Sweden
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1 user liked this useful post by Emil
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Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 683
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Now, I started with the 2nd part, the "sound loco". On the first picture, You can see the original fiber optic installed. It is glued on a small area on the case, but it is quite easy to remove it.  Good visible here is the big speaker, which realy makes much noise! That's maybe a advantage of a plastic case instead of metal. And here a bit closer the LED board already euipped with my small plug.  |
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5 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
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Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 683
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5 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
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Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 683
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I got a CS2 lend by a friend. So finally I was able to activate AUX1 and AUX2 and at leasr I found a bell sound and mapped it to F7: F0 Headlight/Rearlight changing with direction on V36 402 F1 Headlight/Rearlight changing with direction on V36 402 F7 bell sound F8 shunting light (both sides white) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sI7NA0GiF8s |
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5 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
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Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 683
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Now I got time to mount the ball bearing into the motor shield. Further, I realized, that the ball baering in the gear box wasn't pressed deep enough. Now, it fits well and the slow drive perfomance is a bit better (1,96mm/s) and the sound a bit less loud..   |
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7 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
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 Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 3,298 Location: Patagonia
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I just love your work Moritz, it is just neat, and very well documented, one can bring out many tips!!!
Congratulations!! |
 German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL |
1 user liked this useful post by franciscohg
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Joined: 02/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 683
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Hello, I got very cheap an original Maxon bell shaped armature motor. I decided to spend it for my Doppeltes Lottchen: The drive  Drive AssemblyIt was very easy to assemble the drive, because the black front cover of the Maxon fits exactly into the gear. I gave it only a smart pressure to fit in the final position. The ball bearing has to be removed before!   VideoThe following video shows the very soft driving, although it was very nice with the HLA propulsion, too. But the Maxon drive is much more silent! The Doppelte Lottchen  |
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8 users liked this useful post by Moritz-BR365
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 Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,047
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2 users liked this useful post by Iamnotthecrazyone
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