Hello all,
Has anyone found replacement LED bulbs for older locomotives in bulk prices? I've seen them individually for $3.50-$5 USD so far. I would like to replace my older analog locomotive lights for something brighter. Accuracy and complicated wiring need not apply. Just plug and play replacements. Also a chart of substitute numbers would be helpful as well. Thank you.
Roman

Hi Roman,all,
LED's are not bulbs but Light Emitting Diodes in ceramic casing. Plug and Play for analog loks???
You can buy LED's with no wires(cheaper) you will still have to solder a resistor and a diode on the wires!


Dr D

Marklin compatible LED lights are available from this ebay dealer -

http://stores.ebay.de/tu...mp;_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Well, you could put some music on and boogie to the flickering instead! Instant Disco lights!

Thanks all for the leads and insight.

franciscohg,
In reference to the flickering, are you referring to the locomotives that have lights that don't change over with the change in direction but both ends are always lit or does it matter? Will the resister and diode eliminate the flickering or are the two parts necessary for the little LED's, if used, not the light bulb replacements ?

As far as the bayonet and screw in style of replacement bulbs sold as LED's, what else has to be done to use them effectively or why bother? If necessary, and as referred to above, what resister and diode to get and if there is a link or photo available to see the finished wiring, please post.

Thanks again,
Roman

Thank you. I was a bit confused by the replies. I'd like to try them.
Roman

The flickering is caused by attaching one side of the bulb to the chassis(as is the case on most older locos) and the other side to the decoder output. The chassis has the full AC digital signal going through it, but the decoder only puts out DC. This mismatch causes a high-ish frequency flicker that is similar to say an immitation candle.

To solve this, you need to eliminnate the bulb's connection to the chassis. As LED's are smaller and contain wires instead of sockets, it makes them an easy way to eliminate the flicker problem.

I know this is old, but you really need to do 3 things here when using an LED instead of the standard incandescent bulbs. 1. Use a resistor (as needed) to control voltage to the LED (most LED's are around 2v-2.5v). 2. Use a full-wave bridge rectifier (has a diode in it), something cheap like 100v 1amp will do, and lets you input AC or reverse polarity DC, still allowing the LED to work. 3. Use a Capacitor (of around 25v 1000uF) to stop any flickering, whether directly because of AC grounded E5.5 bulb sockets -or- because of imperfections in or dirt on the track. Really, that's all you need.

Cheers,
Pete

Ah.. Those pussies.. In Sweden, Norway and Finland -35C is just another day out.. AND all the trains and planes run too..

so long Mc Donalds is open 24 hours a day nobody should have any problems with the cold weather in your part of the woods.

The flickering is only with digital. In analog like Roman is using them their shouldn't be any flickering.

Chuck

Best source for very inexpensive LED bulbs (but you have to wait till Dec. 26): The day after Christmas go to the stores that sell Christmas tree lights and buy left over strands of lights. They are trying to get rid of their inventory and sell them for practically nothing! Each strand can have hundreds of bulbs. Cut them off and use them as you wish. Don’t forget to attach resistors!
Yannis

Adrian, I have red/white 2MM TOWER led'S. if you need 3mm, check ebay and buy some chinese ones. Let me know if you want to try the 2mm ones I have. These ones switch on the negative side. I bought 100 of them. more than I need but cheap.

Dereck

yes. look the same. Cant remember the supplier though.

I have not tried these particular lights but have purchased E5.5 base Schönwitz warm white led replacement lights from Modellbahnshop-Lippe https://www.modellbahnshop-lippe...01/gb/modell_269865.html. They have a built-in bridge rectifier and resistor so do not flicker when powered by AC or DCC track power, are insensitive to DC polarity and can handle up to 22V. I use them to replace the incandescent bulbs commonly used in many LGB products. They work quite well on my mfx/DCC garden RR.

The description for the lights in the link you posted say AC and DC so, especially at the price listed, are probably worth taking a flier on. If they don't work out in your locos you should be able to use them elsewhere on your layout. There is one issue you may have in an analog application. There will be some minimum voltage necessary before they light up. The description says 12-19V. Your loco/train may have to be flying along for them to come on! The red and green ones should work well as replacements in the old Märklin signals and warm white in points lanterns where there is a fixed lighting voltage around 15VAC.

Edit added: the price is per light not for ten lights! Not such a bargain but still possibly worth investigating. (I was looking for strike-through but could only find highlight!)

Edited by moderator 08 April 2022 03:50:52(UTC)  | Reason: Fixed URL