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Offline river6109  
#1 Posted : 20 February 2013 12:04:18(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
I'm just in the process of doing such a convertion including Led's, in fact I like to overhaul the whole loco
a.) brake pads
b.) connecting rods with screws
c.) 4 Auxillary functions
d.) Telex coupling
e.) 3 Leds's front & rear (incl. markerligthts)
f.) ESU Sound decoder

so far I have gone as far:
installed the leds,
installed an ESU adapterplate 51968
added screws to an extra wheel (drilled a hole into the siderod
added Telex coupling
the challenge will be finding the room for the speaker but I'm confident I've found the space for it.



regards.,

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
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5 years in Destruction mode
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Offline RayF  
#2 Posted : 20 February 2013 13:08:40(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,839
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Hi John,

Why not just buy the Piko model?
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Offline franciscohg  
#3 Posted : 20 February 2013 13:56:07(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,268
Location: Patagonia
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
Hi John,

Why not just buy the Piko model?


because it is not challenging enough!
BigGrin
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
Offline river6109  
#4 Posted : 20 February 2013 14:59:42(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
Hi John,

Why not just buy the Piko model?


Thanks for making me aware of it.

I just had a look and at Euro 254.00 looks a bit expensive comparing their other range of locos.

plus you get a special tool to open or separate the housing from the frame but its a different story when putting it back again, not a task for the light hearted.
Don't think you can add a sound decoder and speaker.

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
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Offline river6109  
#5 Posted : 20 February 2013 15:10:29(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: franciscohg Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: RayF Go to Quoted Post
Hi John,

Why not just buy the Piko model?


because it is not challenging enough!
BigGrin


very true

https://www.youtube.com/river6109
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5 years in Destruction mode
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Offline river6109  
#6 Posted : 20 February 2013 16:12:04(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Hi everyone,

Here are the first photos from an atempt to convert a Märklin 3001, 3002 loco from analog to digital.

2 photos have a lokpilot inserted (21 pin), 1 photo has already an ESU sound decoder installed.

1 Photo shows you the ESU adapterplate 51968 (4Aux functions), Ive drilled a hole through the adapterplate and it fits nicely with the screw hole behind it (loco frame), a small thin plastic washer has been place between the adapterplate and the frame

1 Photo the Roco telex coupling

1 Photo each shows the led's,
ballbearing, here you can see there is some room behind the perm. magnet and I hope the small speaker fits into this space and this is it, there is more room for anything else.
5 pole highefficiency motor

2 photos show the handrails and footsteps

1 photo shows the other under side (doesn't look good ) but this where the 2nd Roco trelex coupling will be placed.

When I first look at the loco I didn't think it all would turn out as it has, there are improvements and new ideas with each new conversion to use the space and wire connections as wise as possible.
although some solder pads from the adapterplate are so close to a specific connection I've waved the idea to use hard wire because the smallest movement rips the solderpad off the circuitboard.
again there will be 2 micro connectors for the top lights and I hope I can work this one out as well (space)

Because the wheel frame is the same distance as from a BR 191, I'm trying to see if I can add the brake pads on this loco as well

regards.,

John


river6109 attached the following image(s):
conversion.JPG
conversion 1.JPG
conversion 2.JPG
conversion 3.JPG
conversion 4.JPG
conversion 5.JPG
conversion 6.JPG
conversion 7.JPG
conversion 8.JPG
conversion 9.JPG
conversion 10.JPG
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Offline franciscohg  
#7 Posted : 20 February 2013 17:30:22(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,268
Location: Patagonia
Nice pictures John.
I have converted one with a LP 4.0 and also LED front and rear, it works well, of course to that point you dont require major modifications of the loco.
The couplers are a great improvement for that shunter, but, where do you plan to put the speaker?
Regards
Francisco
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
Offline river6109  
#8 Posted : 21 February 2013 03:09:07(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Francisco,

thanks for your respond

ESU has bought out a new square loudspeaker, especially for locos where room is an issue.
river6109 attached the following image(s):
conversion 4a.jpg
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Offline jvuye  
#9 Posted : 22 February 2013 16:54:58(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Hi John and all,
I have converted a couple of mine, but did not at the time add the telex coupler...now you're giving me new ideas!

One issue I had after removing the original inversion relay (replacing with the decoder) was that the loco became "unbalanced" and when pulling an heavier train in "forward" (i.e. with the traction tires aft) , it would have a tendency to lift its front wheels and derail.
Cure was found by adding a (mouldable) lead ballast where the relay used to be.
Thought you'd be interested to know!Cool

Cheers

Jacques
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Offline river6109  
#10 Posted : 23 February 2013 08:24:09(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: jvuye Go to Quoted Post
Hi John and all,
I have converted a couple of mine, but did not at the time add the telex coupler...now you're giving me new ideas!

One issue I had after removing the original inversion relay (replacing with the decoder) was that the loco became "unbalanced" and when pulling an heavier train in "forward" (i.e. with the traction tires aft) , it would have a tendency to lift its front wheels and derail.
Cure was found by adding a (mouldable) lead ballast where the relay used to be.
Thought you'd be interested to know!Cool

Cheers

Jacques


Jacques, thanks for the tip but I haven't experienced it with mine.

I'm almost finished with the conversion and yes a loudspeaker does fit behind the perm. magnet.
the crucial part was the adapterplate from ESU, being able to drill a hole through it and finding it lined up where the previous screw hole from the reversing unit was, one needs a bit of luck which you altering locos like this.

regards.,

John



https://www.youtube.com/river6109
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5 years in Destruction mode
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Offline jvuye  
#11 Posted : 23 February 2013 10:24:09(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
....., one needs a bit of luck which you altering locos like this.


I don't think so...!
Skills John, just skills!!BigGrin

Cheers

Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Offline river6109  
#12 Posted : 23 February 2013 10:41:59(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: jvuye Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: river6109 Go to Quoted Post
....., one needs a bit of luck which you altering locos like this.


I don't think so...!
Skills John, just skills!!BigGrin

Cheers



Jacques you think one has to have an eye for it ?Smile

John

https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline river6109  
#13 Posted : 27 February 2013 01:59:24(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Hi everyone,

today I've almost finished this loco, sound decoder has been fitted, loudspeaker has been fitted and the sound volume works fine.
I'm waiting for micro plugs and sockets to connect the top light on both sides and have to fit the 2nd telex coupling from Roco.
I also like to add Handrails and additional steps and a prototypical pantograph
Video will follow.

John
river6109 attached the following image(s):
conversion 12.JPG
conversion 13.JPG
conversion 11.JPG
conversion 14.JPG
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Offline franciscohg  
#14 Posted : 27 February 2013 02:09:49(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,268
Location: Patagonia
Hi John, looking great!
we need a video to see the sound working!
it maybe tempting...
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
Offline river6109  
#15 Posted : 27 February 2013 02:48:28(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: franciscohg Go to Quoted Post
Hi John, looking great!
we need a video to see the sound working!
it maybe tempting...


Francisco,

here is the rest of the family:

2 Märklin, 1 Hobby, 1 Primex (E 163, (sound)

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline river6109  
#16 Posted : 27 February 2013 02:50:08(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: franciscohg Go to Quoted Post
Hi John, looking great!
we need a video to see the sound working!
it maybe tempting...



Thanks Francisco,

Here is the rest of the family:

2 Märklin (E 63 02), 1 Hobby (E 163 Sound), 1 Primex (E 6308)


John

Edited by user 27 February 2013 08:55:20(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

river6109 attached the following image(s):
conversion 15.JPG
conversion 16.JPG
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Offline Mark5  
#17 Posted : 27 February 2013 04:02:33(UTC)
Mark5

Canada   
Joined: 29/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,420
Location: Montreal, Canada
Great to see your process John,

The Roco telex coupler looks interesting.
What are its advantages over the Marklin close coupler telex.
I have one digital loco with Marklin telex for relex.
And one analog telex.
I suppose this could make another thread/post.

Thanks so much for posting the photos and explaining what you did.
The ESU square speaker looks like a perfect fit!
- Mark
DB DR FS NS SNCF c. 1950-65, fan of station architecture esp. from 1920-70.
In single point perspective, where do track lines meet?
Offline river6109  
#18 Posted : 27 February 2013 09:02:57(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Mark,

thanks for your comment.

at the time there only had been 2 on the market Krois and Roco. Roco had trouble producing them because of patent rights, Märklin new version telex coupler came much later so I can't tell you which one is better or more suitable.
Roco's coupler however picks up every little bit of metal you may have lying on the track, on one side a good automatic cleanup tool but on the other side it can prevent the coupling of working.
another must is for the opposite coupling to be compatible and the same height. Roco's counterpart coupling (40397) works well

regards.,

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline river6109  
#19 Posted : 27 February 2013 15:22:33(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Here is a short video from our newly converted DB BR 163 001-1 (Hobby) with an ESU sound decoder and the benefit having a Roco telex coupling

John

https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
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Offline franciscohg  
#20 Posted : 27 February 2013 17:18:28(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,268
Location: Patagonia
Impressive performance John!!!!!
The tiny speaker works great, it is part number 50326 right?
Francisco
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
Offline river6109  
#21 Posted : 27 February 2013 23:27:21(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,715
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Originally Posted by: franciscohg Go to Quoted Post
Impressive performance John!!!!!
The tiny speaker works great, it is part number 50326 right?
Francisco


Thanks for your comments,

Francisco, this is correct.

John

https://www.youtube.com/river6109
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Offline ocram63_uk  
#22 Posted : 24 August 2019 12:00:17(UTC)
ocram63_uk

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 704
Location: England, Suffolk
Sorry for bringing up this 'old' post but I have a 3002 running with an Uhlenbrok decoder which did not need to change any of the motor parts.
If I want to change the motor which of the Maerklin kits do I need?
Will the 60943 work on this engine? I'll use a LokPilot 4
Thank you
Offline RayF  
#23 Posted : 24 August 2019 19:45:44(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,839
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Originally Posted by: ocram63_uk Go to Quoted Post
Sorry for bringing up this 'old' post but I have a 3002 running with an Uhlenbrok decoder which did not need to change any of the motor parts.
If I want to change the motor which of the Maerklin kits do I need?
Will the 60943 work on this engine? I'll use a LokPilot 4
Thank you


The 60943 is not specifically recommended for this loco, so there might be clearance issues which might need further work. In circumstances like this one I just use a Hamo magnet (or the equivalent ESU version) to convert the motor to DC, and then use a Lokpilot as you suggest.

You can use Lokpilot V4M4 kit 64631 which includes the magnet and the M4 version of the decoder, which means you get MFX too.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline ocram63_uk  
#24 Posted : 26 August 2019 10:30:52(UTC)
ocram63_uk

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 704
Location: England, Suffolk
Hi Ray, thank you very much for your advice. So I keep the 3 pole rotor as is and with the ESU kit, you mentioned, I convert the loco.
Isn't it a bit of a waste though to use an MFX decoder on an engine that has a 3 pole rotor ?

The original engine of the 3002 is an LFCM or not ?

Cheers
Offline RayF  
#25 Posted : 26 August 2019 12:25:21(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,839
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Originally Posted by: ocram63_uk Go to Quoted Post
Hi Ray, thank you very much for your advice. So I keep the 3 pole rotor as is and with the ESU kit, you mentioned, I convert the loco.
Isn't it a bit of a waste though to use an MFX decoder on an engine that has a 3 pole rotor ?

The original engine of the 3002 is an LFCM or not ?

Cheers


I think the 3001/3002 has a SFCM motor. At least my two models have.

3 pole motors controlled by a modern decoder like the LP V4 can give very good results, though they sometimes need a bit of fiddling with the CV's to get the best running throughout the speed range.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline ocram63_uk  
#26 Posted : 26 August 2019 13:20:06(UTC)
ocram63_uk

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 704
Location: England, Suffolk
thank you. is there an old topic in this forum about the Maerklin motor types or I saw it somewhere else?
Offline RayF  
#27 Posted : 26 August 2019 14:45:16(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,839
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Originally Posted by: ocram63_uk Go to Quoted Post
thank you. is there an old topic in this forum about the Maerklin motor types or I saw it somewhere else?


There's a topic about the different motor types and their part numbers etc. It's a sticky on the digital section.

https://www.marklin-user...al-conversion-of-M-locos

A very good resource for finding out what motor is in what loco is the old Helmut Kern website. It went down years ago but is now back again. Unfortunately it was not updated after 2005.

http://www.hfkern.gmxhome.de/
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline TEEWolf  
#28 Posted : 27 August 2019 12:52:16(UTC)
TEEWolf


Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,465
Originally Posted by: ocram63_uk Go to Quoted Post
Hi Ray, thank you very much for your advice. So I keep the 3 pole rotor as is and with the ESU kit, you mentioned, I convert the loco.
Isn't it a bit of a waste though to use an MFX decoder on an engine that has a 3 pole rotor ?

The original engine of the 3002 is an LFCM or not ?

Cheers


I got the same loco and thinking about to convert it to digital. It is still anlogue. I found these technical specifications for the E 63.

https://www.maerklin.de/...elnummer=3002&lang=1

http://maerklin-sammler-...otiven/03002/03002_m.htm
Offline jvuye  
#29 Posted : 28 August 2019 11:51:38(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Besides the infos of type of decoder, 3 vs 5 pole motor, etc., I'll just add a simple obsrvation from my own conversions of these cute electrics: the original inversion relay is relatively heavy and represents a good chunk of the original mass that provides adherence.
The decoders are much lighter, and if you want to maintain the same traction performance, think about adding some ballast weight in the loco.
I used the "lead putty used to adjust the center of gravity on model airplanes.
Hope this helps
Jacques
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Offline RayF  
#30 Posted : 28 August 2019 20:21:50(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,839
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Originally Posted by: jvuye Go to Quoted Post
Besides the infos of type of decoder, 3 vs 5 pole motor, etc., I'll just add a simple obsrvation from my own conversions of these cute electrics: the original inversion relay is relatively heavy and represents a good chunk of the original mass that provides adherence.
The decoders are much lighter, and if you want to maintain the same traction performance, think about adding some ballast weight in the loco.
I used the "lead putty used to adjust the center of gravity on model airplanes.
Hope this helps
Jacques


Good advice Jacques!

I have seen this problem in the past, where removal of the reversing relay affects the adhesion weight of the loco. I use chunks of fishing weights to achieve the same result.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline ocram63_uk  
#31 Posted : 29 August 2019 08:43:00(UTC)
ocram63_uk

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 704
Location: England, Suffolk
for replacing the vintage light bulbs with LEDs I have found this article on ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i...24V-5-x-New/392391267151

Has anybody used them ?

Thank you
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