Hello all,

I have just received a BR85 3309 and BR41 3082 I purchased on eBay. Both locomotives are in excellent cosmetic condition. When I put them on the track initially, they were running pretty slowly. I took the covers off both, removed the coil from the motor, cleaned the shafts, oiled and reassembled. When I had the coil out, I could turn the gear and the wheels would turn ok...but I am not sure how much resistance I should feel. It was not hard to turn them, but not sure if I should be able to push it and it will spin freely after I stop turning the gear. I also oiled around the wheels where the manual suggests. Afterward, the locomotives run very well on a straight, but they seem to struggle on curves (K track 2221 - which are 30 degree standard). It seems like they are binding when they go around a corner. The motor sounds like it's struggling a bit more and it slows down. The 3309 seems to have no trouble articulating the chassis if I pick it up and move it by hand. Valve gears do not appear to be binding.

Both models have clean wheels and pickup shoes. Lights, reversing, and telex (on the 3309) work perfectly. On a straight they seem to have no trouble getting up to full speed. I don't have problems with any of my other locomotives on these curves, I have a BR41 from the 29625 starter set that goes around no problem as well as a 3085 BR03

Do I just need to do more disassembly and old oil cleanup? Need new traction tires? Initially I thought it may be a problem with these models having big 8 and 10 wheel sets going around the corners, but it just doesn't seem characteristic to Marklin locos - which always run well.

Edited by user 19 November 2012 20:41:43(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Hi Brandon,
The 3309 indeed has an articulated chassis, the 3084 has not. As for the 3309 I agree with Peter, it should run perfectly thru R1 radius curves. Not so for the 3084, at low power settings. Run it with a long and heavy freight train and you won't notice.
As for the 3309, do check the free movement of the 2 parts of the chassis but also check the 2 parts of the connecting rods where they come together on 3rd axle, they should slide freely. Sometimes one of these rods is slightly bent which obstructs their sliding movement in curves.

Regards, Robert

Hi Brandon,
I use Q-Tips soaked in Ronson lighter fluid for cleaning gears, axles, armatures (for my older Loks). You should be able to do this without removing wheels. I know that Scott from Helmut's Hobby has a devise that gives the Loks an electronic bath, so to speak. I have sent him many Loks for repairs over the years and they are always returned to me looking like new. Good luck! Peter

Hi Brandon
While the rotor is out, check the BR 41 for binding rods, that could be caused by one or two drivers being out of quarter...
Check also that on both sides, the cranks are all perfectly aligned ..
Cheers

Fritz,

Thanks, I competely agree. I also have a BR41 from the 29625 starter set. It does struggle a bit in R1 corners due to the lack of articulation. Something is up with my 3082 though, it binds almost to the point of stopping. I can feel a high amount of resistance even when pushing by hand. You have helped my expectation though, I should expect it to just run OK and not great (but not terrible).

Of course I can post about it all day long, but what would really help is if I actually worked on the locomotive :)

-Brandon