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Offline jetavdk  
#1 Posted : 17 January 2012 05:58:32(UTC)
jetavdk

United States   
Joined: 02/03/2009(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Friday Harbor, WA
Howdy,
I just picked up a gaggle of some old shurzenwagen metal passenger cars and the metal swiss coaches with the operating doors. These have been sitting in a basement uncovered and have a ton of dust on them. When I say a ton, I mean 40 years worth. What do any of you recommend to clean any of these with? The are also about 10 of the old metal donnerbuchsen that need a good clean-up and some rust removal on the roofs. What is best to remove the rust and is there a solution I could use to neutalize the rust before repainting? Thanks in advance for any advice!!
Ted
Offline foumaro  
#2 Posted : 17 January 2012 06:01:12(UTC)
foumaro

Greece   
Joined: 08/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 4,430
Location: Attiki Athens Greece
Are you sure that you have to repaint them?Clean them first,see the result and then decide for repainting,maybe it is not necessary.
Offline foumaro  
#3 Posted : 17 January 2012 06:10:08(UTC)
foumaro

Greece   
Joined: 08/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 4,430
Location: Attiki Athens Greece
I mean the body and not the roof.
Offline seatrains  
#4 Posted : 17 January 2012 07:03:04(UTC)
seatrains

United States   
Joined: 22/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 676
Location: Shoreline, WA
I have a lot of vintage marklin, in various states and condition. I start with warm water and a cotton swab first, to remove dirt. Rub lightly and if you see the paint coming off, or if it is chalky, stop! If not keep cleaning. I have also used a little bit of liquid dish detergent, to clean stubborn dirt, with some good results. On some of my old ones, I like the look of clean "crazed paint".
For rust, sometimes the cotton pad on my dremel at a slow speed and very light touch, has taken off surface rust. I would practice on the "thunder boxes" first. You may need to repaint the roofs. My friends have repainted roofs with good results. My two cents. Goood luck.
Thom
European Train Enthusiast - Pacific Northwest Chapter
4th Division, Pacific Northwest Region, National Model Railroaders Association
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by seatrains
Offline jetavdk  
#5 Posted : 17 January 2012 07:47:05(UTC)
jetavdk

United States   
Joined: 02/03/2009(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Friday Harbor, WA
Sea,
What type of primer would you recommend for the roofs?
Ted
Offline Yumgui  
#6 Posted : 17 January 2012 19:53:02(UTC)
Yumgui

United States   
Joined: 20/03/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1,660
Location: Paris, France
Ted,

Originally Posted by: jetavdk Go to Quoted Post
... to neutalize the rust before repainting ?


Lots of products available depending on where you are, on what the rust problems are and what "renovation" results you want to achieve ...

Here is one product I use for spot rust, can be painted over or just left as is .. dries clear : Rustol

Hope that helps ^^

Yum Tongue
If your M track is rusted ... DON'T throw it out !
Working on: https://studiogang.com/projects/all
My heavy train station renovation: https://youtu.be/QQlyNiq416A
Inspired by: http://www.nakedmarklin.com/... Am not alone in this universe, phew.
Offline PhredD  
#7 Posted : 18 January 2012 00:53:48(UTC)
PhredD

United States   
Joined: 16/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 54
Location: Burke, Virginia
I second what Thom said on cleaning - I've had good success doing exactly the same. I also use isopropyl alcohol, especially over rusted areas and to get rust off axles - has worked pretty well for me.

I have worked on a 4037 and a couple of 4022/52's I got off ebay - I hand sanded with very fine grit (1000 grit I think) where the bodies were crazed, and then repainted the areas with Testors Model Masters paints, 34079 plus some black, appropriately thinned and then airbrushed. I was able to get an excellent match; I'll try to post a photo tomorrow (have to borrow a camera) and let others be the judge just how close I came. . .

I have repainted roofs, including an old 3rd class thunder box, but I'm not completely satisfied with how those turned out. I sanded off the small amounts of rust down to the bare metal, and painted over that - no rust has reappeared. I'm not happy with the color of one roof, and the texture of the others (tried using Model Master steel and then clearcoated) - I must do more experimenting on this.

Fred

Ok, edited this to attach my first attempt at posting a pic - this is the 4022 whose body I mostly repainted - I masked off the stenciling. The roof is completely repainted, following a photo reference. I'll work on the picture sizing

Edited by user 20 January 2012 00:01:02(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

PhredD attached the following image(s):
4022 repaint.JPG
PhredD
Burke, VA USA
Offline jetavdk  
#8 Posted : 18 January 2012 04:44:11(UTC)
jetavdk

United States   
Joined: 02/03/2009(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Friday Harbor, WA
You guys are great, thank you all for the great tips. I would love to see photos of your past projects. Now all I need is some time to get to work.BigGrin
Offline PhredD  
#9 Posted : 20 January 2012 00:06:02(UTC)
PhredD

United States   
Joined: 16/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 54
Location: Burke, Virginia
Ted,
Looks my photo took above. Here's the 4037 I partially repainted - looking close under a bright light you can see the color mismatches, but I think it looks like weathering - at least that's my story. It's this roof I wasn't thrilled about on the finish - Model Master aluminum (or steel, I forget which), followed by Dullcote - the finish looks rough in person but it's actually smooth to the touch. (Actually looks pretty good in this photo.) So, at least an example of a minor restoration attempt.
PhredD attached the following image(s):
019.JPG
PhredD
Burke, VA USA
Offline seatrains  
#10 Posted : 20 January 2012 02:50:27(UTC)
seatrains

United States   
Joined: 22/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 676
Location: Shoreline, WA
nice job PhredD! I never thought about masking off the decals and painting the rest..
Thom
European Train Enthusiast - Pacific Northwest Chapter
4th Division, Pacific Northwest Region, National Model Railroaders Association
Offline jetavdk  
#11 Posted : 20 January 2012 22:23:21(UTC)
jetavdk

United States   
Joined: 02/03/2009(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Friday Harbor, WA
Phred, that is some nice work. Drool
Offline hennabm  
#12 Posted : 21 January 2012 00:05:26(UTC)
hennabm

Scotland   
Joined: 22/09/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,073
Location: Edinburgh,
Hi phred

for the roofs I have found taking it back to bare metal before spraying with an automotive product - etch primer No 1 gives a good start
Then this is rubbed down dry using 2000 grit paper (again an auto product) before painting in a product from Frosts Restorations in the UK called clear zinc coating

For the results see my thread on a restoration of a 4015

https://www.marklin-user...67_4015-restoration.aspx

Mike
1957 - 1985 era
What's digital?
Offline PhredD  
#13 Posted : 21 January 2012 01:43:34(UTC)
PhredD

United States   
Joined: 16/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 54
Location: Burke, Virginia
Ted, Thom,
Thanks. Time to find some more old cars in need of repair I think, but next time I'll take "before" pictures to go along with the "after" pics.

Mike,
Really nice job on the 4015 - looks great, and thanks for the tip - I'll look for an equivalent clear zinc coating over here.

Fred
PhredD
Burke, VA USA
Offline 20-VOLT-AC  
#14 Posted : 27 January 2012 20:53:51(UTC)
20-VOLT-AC

United Kingdom   
Joined: 27/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 250
Location: united kingdom
Originally Posted by: jetavdk Go to Quoted Post
Howdy,
I just picked up a gaggle of some old shurzenwagen metal passenger cars and the metal swiss coaches with the operating doors. These have been sitting in a basement uncovered and have a ton of dust on them. When I say a ton, I mean 40 years worth. What do any of you recommend to clean any of these with? The are also about 10 of the old metal donnerbuchsen that need a good clean-up and some rust removal on the roofs. What is best to remove the rust and is there a solution I could use to neutalize the rust before repainting? Thanks in advance for any advice!!
Ted


Hello Ted.
The best thing for tinplate models is a basic furniture polish like PLEDGE or Mr. SHEEN.
Regards Neil.

1950's Marklin Fan .
Offline steventrain  
#15 Posted : 27 January 2012 21:22:10(UTC)
steventrain

United Kingdom   
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 31,697
Location: United Kingdom
Hi and Welcome to the forum, Neil.
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
Offline jetavdk  
#16 Posted : 28 January 2012 07:41:38(UTC)
jetavdk

United States   
Joined: 02/03/2009(UTC)
Posts: 55
Location: Friday Harbor, WA


Hello Ted.
The best thing for tinplate models is a basic furniture polish like PLEDGE or Mr. SHEEN.
Regards Neil.



Hi Neil,

Do you apply this after cleaning off all the dust?

Ted
Offline 20-VOLT-AC  
#17 Posted : 28 January 2012 15:53:08(UTC)
20-VOLT-AC

United Kingdom   
Joined: 27/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 250
Location: united kingdom



Hi Neil,

Do you apply this after cleaning off all the dust?

Ted


Hello Ted.
You can apply this polish at anytime even with grime and dust on the body just make sure there is no grit on the body which could be abrasive, you need a cotton bud and work in the polish and remove the grime.
Then you need a soft felt cleaning cloth ( EG: SPECTACLE GLASS CLOTH ) and polish the surface.
This method is used by many menbers of the HRCA vintage hornby club in UK.

Regards Neil.

1950's Marklin Fan .
Offline 20-VOLT-AC  
#18 Posted : 29 January 2012 15:03:51(UTC)
20-VOLT-AC

United Kingdom   
Joined: 27/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 250
Location: united kingdom
Originally Posted by: steventrain Go to Quoted Post
Hi and Welcome to the forum, Neil.


Hello Steven, many thanks for the warm welcome.
Regards Neil. ( UK )

1950's Marklin Fan .
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