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Offline FishTankFishy  
#51 Posted : 25 September 2010 11:21:10(UTC)
FishTankFishy


Joined: 19/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 27
Location: Sweden
Thanks John and Renato.

John , I guess you are talking about this one
http://www.der-moba.de/i..._Das_Märklin-System

and as Herr BDNZ pointed out in previous post it is 5120 (286mm)
Well, it seems I need to try to think of way to make this work with shorter radius like less than 10cm. I am just speculating. I have no clue what it means in terms of efforts and feasibility. May be experienced ones can shade some light.:)

End result I want to have is like this.
_________
(_________) Looking circuit with 20cm between two parallel tracks.
Offline john black  
#52 Posted : 25 September 2010 23:22:18(UTC)
john black

United States   
Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC)
Posts: 12,139
Location: New York, NY
FishTankFishy wrote:

Herr BDNZ pointed out in previous post it is 5120 (286mm)

Yep, Sachin - lets guess Herr BD from NZ is right on the money ... LOL
I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators.
AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only.
CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ...
Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide

Offline H0  
#53 Posted : 25 September 2010 23:58:38(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,268
Location: DE-NW
FishTankFishy wrote:
Well, it seems I need to try to think of way to make this work with shorter radius like less than 10cm. [...] I have no clue what it means in terms of efforts and feasibility.

The smallest standard radius for gauge Z (1:220) is 15 cm, but I heard of people that used flextrack to get smaller radii. I don't know if 10 cm is possible in this gauge.

With respect to gauge H0 (1:87): couplers are not made for such small radii.
A single, very short 2-axled loco might be able to make it. I'm afraid that no unmodified train will be able to handle this radius.

A trick used in gauge 1:1 might help: in very small curves the outer rail is modified to have the wheels run on the flanges. Larger wheel diameter on the outside helps to drive around the curve.

My tip: Try to get at least 80 cm so you can use standard curves (36 cm radius). All Märklin vehicles should be able to handle this.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline FishTankFishy  
#54 Posted : 05 October 2010 23:59:52(UTC)
FishTankFishy


Joined: 19/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 27
Location: Sweden
Hi again!!

Some updates:
Got a 2010 märklin catalogue as well as got a free New Items for 2010 from local hobby shop.
Trying to finish both of them but spending more time on looking at pictures. :)

Anyway something strange is happening.

The setup for which I posted pictures ran very well. Then I disconnected everything and then packed it. Today, I set the whole thing up again and connected the supply. Now my lovely little loco runs in reverse direction. Why????

I understand that in DC , reversing the voltage change direction of the motor, but in AC????
What is going on?? Or my trafo is acting up??

Any ideas?

Offline H0  
#55 Posted : 06 October 2010 01:33:17(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,268
Location: DE-NW
FishTankFishy wrote:
I understand that in DC , reversing the voltage change direction of the motor, but in AC????
What is going on??

With AC, you change direction by turning the throttle to the left beyond the 0 position (for about a second).

AC locos can go in both directions.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline FishTankFishy  
#56 Posted : 06 October 2010 11:26:39(UTC)
FishTankFishy


Joined: 19/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 27
Location: Sweden
Thanks Tom. Shall try that today evening and report the outcome.

One more question:
I have two ancient DC locos from trix. They work well when powered directly. But what happens is : When I put them on track, they run for some time then stop and it goes on. I have to push them again and again.
Using Digital Multimeter, I checked connectivity of the tracks and it seems to be fine.

I have also cleaned tracks using isopropyl alcohol and they seems to have good connectivity.
When I try this, I lay the tracks on Hard wooden floor(not on carpet like I posted above).

Asked local hobbyshop guy and he said, perhaps the el pickup contacts are not working so well. He suggested putting SOLDER on them so as to make them work. I have not tried that.

What might be wrong and what else I can try?

Thanks.


Offline river6109  
#57 Posted : 06 October 2010 12:10:46(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,730
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Welcome to the forum,

I like the carpet. is it silk ?

John
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline FishTankFishy  
#58 Posted : 06 October 2010 12:17:07(UTC)
FishTankFishy


Joined: 19/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 27
Location: Sweden
Thanks John. Yes, I think it is Persian silk. The carpet was bought in Iran by a friend of mine.
Offline FishTankFishy  
#59 Posted : 21 April 2011 11:51:51(UTC)
FishTankFishy


Joined: 19/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 27
Location: Sweden
Greetings from Sweden after long silence.

After taking seriously all the valuable advice I got from you all, I decided to suspend all the shopping spree activities and spent some time reading catalogues and tried to get as much knowledge as possible. (No quiz time please :) ) I did not study for any Märklin Exams :)

Some decision points:
I will buy digital starter set and have been looking around on internet for the same.
Came across some excellent thread here with suggestions and looked into these ones:
1) 29483 (SBB Cargo), class 421 'Swiss Freight Train' Starter Set.(Mid april to Aug 2011)

2´) 29094 DB E94 Electric & BR 01.10 Steam Locomotive Starter Set.
Not available for me in Sweden yet (Dec2011).

3) 29539 'Freight Train' Digital Starter Set w/(DB) Cl 81 Steam Available in local hobby shop(3200SEK) Thinking of buying it but wondering if I shall wait for 29094 and in meantime try to save some cash and go big.
http://www.eurorailhobbi...mp;ca=14&stock=29539

4) I also happend to come across this one and somehow did not find much of reviews or information about this one. It was 2003 release and looks interesting. But have some questions around it.
http://rutenhjelms.ehand...tarter_set_with_2_trains

29850 Seems to be released in 2003 (I am not sure where I read that anymore). So here are questions:
1) Is the MS that comes with this one will be having issues as compared to MS in latest releases like
29539 above? The picture of set shows similar looking MS but I am no expert in. What I do not want to end up is some outdated stuff which no one uses.

I could not even find much information about this set and even the marklin site does not list this set. Is it for real or am I dreaming?

2) So what are your views on which one shall I buy.

29539: Is ok but It does not seem to have some features(sounds for new kids on block for starters) as compared to 29850. 29094 is long wait I guess and a bit pricy taking into account my grand knowledge about this hobby. :)

What I want to do is this:
Get a digital Starter set and try to build this one from the other thread. This sounds like challenging thing to do.
https://www.marklin-user...t18853_small-layout.aspx

There are zillion questions around this one but shall take it a bit later. Already too saturated with reading so much on internet.

Before I end happy easter holidays to all.





Offline David Dewar  
#60 Posted : 21 April 2011 20:52:44(UTC)
David Dewar

Scotland   
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 7,344
Location: Scotland
As I have said previously a starter set will be ideal for you. C track would be good and it is just a matter of choice as to which loco you like and what you want to spend. All of the sets are OK and will get you going.
The book with the start set will get you up and running very quickly.
The best way to learn about Marklin is to run a train on an oval of track then slowly take things from there... one step at a time.

dave
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
Offline Joseph Meiring  
#61 Posted : 21 April 2011 21:48:48(UTC)
Joseph Meiring

South Africa   
Joined: 27/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,157
Location: Western Cape Cape Town
Hi Sachin
Totally agree with Dave - I want to stress what he says about taking it slowly; which is what Ive done/am doing, and it really is the way to get started.
The 29539 is an excellent start set; MS2, and the points have decoders fitted; ;lovely little tank engine and 5 wagons, with a goodly amount of C track.
Get it, you will not be disappointed; and once you have it, the rest will follow.....!!
Joe
Offline Webmaster  
#62 Posted : 21 April 2011 22:11:26(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,161
29850 contains the old MS1, which belongs to the former generation of M "mfx-system" digital controllers. It will probably work fine, but with the report flood of failing MS1's on the forum I would maybe avoid it unless I had an interest for the trains themselves in that pack... Or if the price of the set is really good... And be prepared to buy a "better" full controller separately later on, as eg the new 60215...

On the other hand, I still only have an old MS1 and a CS1 (60212) and they work for me - but I don't have a real layout, I'm still in the "oval" stage.... BigGrin

I can also say that I buy most of my stuff from LokShop in Germany, with some additions from MJ-Hobby in Stockholm. So waiting for new items released is not really a problem nowadays thanks to the Internet...
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
Offline gachar001  
#63 Posted : 21 April 2011 22:37:23(UTC)
gachar001

India   
Joined: 29/04/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,391
Location: Chennai
Hi Sachin,
You can go to Marklin.com, click on Product data bank search and see the description for each set your self.
Obviously the 29094 with two trains would be a great set if you decide to spend US$1300. Please note, from the description, it looks like the electric loco only has a warning sound but the steam loco has full operating sound. So basically this means that the electric loco has no sound except for maybe a horn sound whereas the steam loco has the full chuffing sounds etc. The set also comes with 4 turnouts with built in decoders and solenoids and these turnouts can be controlled with the MS2 conntroller
This is the set I would buy.

The 29850 you mentioned comes with the MS1 which is an old generation controller. Although it can control trains reasonably well, it cannot control turnouts (the turnouts in this set does not seem to have the solenoid or the decoder to automatically switch them). One thing to watch out for is that a large number of these controllers had problems. I had a problematic one.
Gautham
Atlanta, GA USA
Offline FishTankFishy  
#64 Posted : 22 April 2011 13:25:52(UTC)
FishTankFishy


Joined: 19/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 27
Location: Sweden
Thanks a lot guys.

Dave, yes shall go for a starter set.
Joe, yes taking things slowly now and hence turning here for sound advise.
So I think I shall go for 29539 or 29483 (will decide that on when i decide to go out and actually buy.
In my local hobby shop 29539 is around 3400 SEK. On net it is a bit cheaper but shipping charges will even that out and then wait times.


Webmaster, will see if I can go to mjhobby as I am in stockholm as of now.

I have noticed that the things in sweden has huge price gap. This when buying tracks/turnouts specially adds up considerable in amount in final amount and the price diff between buying local and from lokshop.de + shipping still have
considerable difference.

Gautam, yes two trains one with good set of functions sounds fascinating. If I did not buy any one of the above ones I might go for this one. But then as Dave has pointed out, it is a big step and taking things slowly won't be applicable in that case. :)

Thanks a lot for pointing out things about 29850. I was a bit suspicious about MS.

I have one questions which is nagging me while going through märklin catalogues and internet stuff.
I keep on reading references of this Flex Track things in various places.
Does this thing ever exist in Märklin product range?
If yes, please please please enlighten me about some details like märklin product number or any link to old catalogue
where I can read about this one.

How do you use this stuff? Or märklin folks just stay away from this thing for certain reasons and hence not much talk.

Do you use this stuff with M, C and K tracks too? what kind of joining mechanisms(not sure about lingo here) are used to connect these two kinds of tracks.

I am a bit restless about this piece of knowledge as it might be a handy things to use for anyone who lives in a small apartments with space constraints. I just wanna know. ;)
Perhaps, may be it is a tall order for newbie to know about.

Thanks a lot all for keeping me on track. I truly appreciate this.

Offline gachar001  
#65 Posted : 22 April 2011 16:17:31(UTC)
gachar001

India   
Joined: 29/04/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,391
Location: Chennai
Flex track as the name suggests is just that. It means you can bend it and make different radius curves. But if you go with M* C track (the one with the stiff plastic road bed attached) flex is not an option. I am not sure if M* has flex K track. In any case, most M* start sets come with C track which is excellent quality track.

One thing to remember when you start expanding on your start set is that C track comes in various radiuses and lengths. You need to plan your extensions carefully as C track is rigid and unless you have the correct radiuses/lengths, you cannot make 'ends meet'
Gautham
Atlanta, GA USA
Offline Webmaster  
#66 Posted : 22 April 2011 19:50:00(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,161
Flex track only exists in the K-track assortment. K-track is the one without any "roadbed". They are the 22xx-series of track in the catalogs. The grey C-track is the 24xxx series.

However, if you want to use K-track too - there are C->K transition track pieces, as well as there are C->M track pieces.
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
Offline Fredrik  
#67 Posted : 22 April 2011 21:38:48(UTC)
Fredrik

Sweden   
Joined: 13/07/2004(UTC)
Posts: 642
The article number of the K-Flex track is: 2205. This is the best track of them all in the 22xx-series... wink But you can't (or rather shouldn't try) create a curved track with a radius smaller than the available curved tracks (2210). It'll be too tight to drive through for most vechicles. It's more for creating large radius smooth curves. There are rail-joiners available for connecting cut flex-tracks to existing track(s), don't have the article number available right now though.
Fredrik.
*ECoS 2 + ECoSDetector + SwitchPilot + ECoSTerminal; *Z21 + Loconet + Digikeijs + MGP; **CS3+ + CdB (** coming soon...)
WWW: MJ-fjärren
Offline gachar001  
#68 Posted : 22 April 2011 21:45:51(UTC)
gachar001

India   
Joined: 29/04/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,391
Location: Chennai
Originally Posted by: Fredrik Go to Quoted Post
The article number of the K-Flex track is: 2205. This is the best track of them all in the 22xx-series... wink But you can't (or rather shouldn't try) create a curved track with a radius smaller than the available curved tracks (2210). It'll be too tight to drive through for most vechicles. It's more for creating large radius smooth curves. There are rail-joiners available for connecting cut flex-tracks to existing track(s), don't have the article number available right now though.

Just out of curiosity, once you bend the flex track to your required radius, doesn't some of the metal track on the inner side need to be cut as the inner rail will always be shorter than the outer rail?
Gautham
Atlanta, GA USA
Offline kbvrod  
#69 Posted : 22 April 2011 22:09:47(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi all,


Quote:
Just out of curiosity, once you bend the flex track to your required radius, doesn't some of the metal track on the inner side need to be cut as the inner rail will always be shorter than the outer rail?


Yes,several ways to do this,...I could not find them,....but Krause make brass clamps,to make alignment and cutting flex much easier.

Dr Dirt
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by kbvrod
Offline Webmaster  
#70 Posted : 22 April 2011 22:17:46(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,161
It will have to be cut on the inner rail, yes - and maybe also the plastic ties (carrying the centre rail connection)... There are tools like the "Krause-clamps" to align the rails and secure them in the cutting phase for precision work. I believe our "Dr Dirt" (kbvrod) has quite some experience with these, since he had a nice K-track layout mostly using K-flex in the past... You will of course also have to re-fit the rail joiners after cutting, as well as securing the centre rail connection with soldered cables or such...

Flex track gives the freedom to do your curves as you like, but does involve additional work. With the wide radius C-track curves you can achieve similar results, but you have to calculate the fit instead... So it's a matter of preferences, really...

Edit: Ahh, Kevin beat me to it...
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Webmaster
Offline river6109  
#71 Posted : 23 April 2011 03:11:52(UTC)
river6109

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC)
Posts: 14,730
Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
Sachin,


Welcome to this forum, my name is John.

You must know something about the hobby by joining this wonderful forum.

I hope your stay will make you a better person, it helped me, by buying more model train stuff.BigGrin
https://www.youtube.com/river6109
https://www.youtube.com/6109river
5 years in Destruction mode
50 years in Repairing mode
Offline FishTankFishy  
#72 Posted : 23 April 2011 09:23:05(UTC)
FishTankFishy


Joined: 19/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 27
Location: Sweden
Gautam, " You need to plan your extensions carefully as C track is rigid and unless you have the correct radiuses/lengths, you cannot make 'ends meet'" now this is something I call stuff from experience. The reason I started looking into flex track thing was while playing around with old M track, I always had tough time getting ends meet. I just felt that as limitation (for new comer at least) as before you get decent handle on various radii and how curves works or which things fits in which cases is way too hard and tough to grasp. Anyway point noted well.

Juhan, Fredrik and Dr. Dirt or Kevin??, I am trying to find some more info about what you said. I was talking to my local hobby shop and he showed me the flex track which can be coupled with M, C and K track and there are special type of fitting accessories it seems. I do not have decent handle on this one but it seems to exist. I will see if I can figure this out myself from info from you.

Does any old märklin catalogues have any info around this one?? Any links??

I need to really think it through things due to space constraints.

Fredrik, shall PM you soon. :)

Thank you all. I am learning something new every day almost about this one. In an hour going out to visit local hobby shop MJhobby.se Shall be cool to talk to folks over their and admire stuff in there. :)
Offline David Dewar  
#73 Posted : 23 April 2011 11:34:43(UTC)
David Dewar

Scotland   
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 7,344
Location: Scotland
IF you buy a C track starter set you will get an idea about Marklin and how it works. Flex track will not save you any space as anything smaller than the radius 1 C track will not be of any use. K track starter is also fine if you wish to ballast by hand.
I presume you have the latest Marklin catalogue from which you can see the radius of the various track parts. There are dozens of track plans in Marklin books which will ensure you have no problem in joining up track.

dave
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
Offline gachar001  
#74 Posted : 25 April 2011 16:37:12(UTC)
gachar001

India   
Joined: 29/04/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,391
Location: Chennai
Originally Posted by: FishTankFishy Go to Quoted Post
Gautam, " You need to plan your extensions carefully as C track is rigid and unless you have the correct radiuses/lengths, you cannot make 'ends meet'" now this is something I call stuff from experience. The reason I started looking into flex track thing was while playing around with old M track, I always had tough time getting ends meet. I just felt that as limitation (for new comer at least) as before you get decent handle on various radii and how curves works or which things fits in which cases is way too hard and tough to grasp. Anyway point noted well.

Juhan, Fredrik and Dr. Dirt or Kevin??, I am trying to find some more info about what you said. I was talking to my local hobby shop and he showed me the flex track which can be coupled with M, C and K track and there are special type of fitting accessories it seems. I do not have decent handle on this one but it seems to exist. I will see if I can figure this out myself from info from you.

Does any old märklin catalogues have any info around this one?? Any links??

I need to really think it through things due to space constraints.

Fredrik, shall PM you soon. :)

Thank you all. I am learning something new every day almost about this one. In an hour going out to visit local hobby shop MJhobby.se Shall be cool to talk to folks over their and admire stuff in there. :)

As Flash Dave mentioned, the easiest way to expand is to use a track plan provided in catalogs (this is what I did). This will tell you how many of each kind of track you need. Your starter set booklet will tell you how many of each kind of track you have. Going from there, you can just order what you need. The track plans also specify the exact dimension of the layout.

To make things interesting, pick a plan that has ramps and bridges. M*, Faler etc. sell what you need to make the ramps and bridges.

I wouldn't go for K track if you are just worried about making 'ends meet'. C track is very robust, has virtually no contact issues and overall very good. I remember using Flieschmann K type track as a kid and we often had connection issues where a train would just stop due to bad conductivity.
Gautham
Atlanta, GA USA
Offline Nilkram  
#75 Posted : 27 April 2011 23:00:38(UTC)
Nilkram


Joined: 18/02/2010(UTC)
Posts: 43
Location: Netherlands
Sachin

If you look for information about M track look here

http://wiki.3rail.nl/dok...p?id=rails:m-rails&s[]=catalogus

Alas, it is in Dutch but the drawings say it all. Otherwise search on the Web, all Märklin catalogues are scanned

Regards

Jan
Offline FishTankFishy  
#76 Posted : 29 April 2011 10:40:37(UTC)
FishTankFishy


Joined: 19/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 27
Location: Sweden
Thanks Gautam. Soon,soon will get a new digital set. May be over weekend too. :)

Jan, that was great link. I used google translate and when translation was bad simple read Dutch(can figure some things out with my tiny swedish competence.)

Learnt few things like how numbering works and always wondered what 1/1 1/2 means. The document says it well. Shall read it very carefully.

By any chance any of you bought any books about building layout?? Any good ones around?
Got couple of them from local library:

Just like the real thing : modelling railways / Pete Waterman.
Model railways : the complete guide to designing, building and operating a model railway / Cyril Freezer

Any good ones which can help newcomers??
Or forums and internet is best source??
Offline SINCrazee  
#77 Posted : 29 April 2011 11:18:50(UTC)
SINCrazee


Joined: 21/07/2010(UTC)
Posts: 309
Location: SIN , ICAO: WSSS
Hi Fishtankfishy ,
Marklin Digital is one of the greatest feat of technology. It is so easy to use. Even I (The inexperienced Digital user last year) when I got my first upgrade from Analog to Digital , I am able to master the MS2 controls in just a few hours. Few months later, I quickly upgraded to the sophisticated CS2(The flagship of all controllers) and it 's easy to use too even though the manual is trying to complicate it.Laugh
The CS2
UserPostedImage
If you want to get complicated by CS2.. You can with these complicating manualLaugh
http://www.rjftrains.com/sales/cs2/60214_en.pdf


Cheers
Chan

C-track carpetbahn, R1 ,R2,R3 with MS2 and a CS2 plus Marklin and HAG trains..
Offline FishTankFishy  
#78 Posted : 13 May 2011 09:54:10(UTC)
FishTankFishy


Joined: 19/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 27
Location: Sweden
Good morning from Sweden.
Finally I am proud owner of the following.
MAR29483. Just got it yesterday and have not tried to run it. Will do that over weekend.
More pics shall follow.
The set description reads there will be Loco Card(Could not find any. Might be hidden some place in box?)
But with mfx deco, I gather the MS will detect the loco itself or the Loco card have some more goodies on it which I am gonna miss?
http://imageshack.us/pho...mages/822/dscn3795g.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/pho...mages/405/dscn3796j.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/pho...mages/824/dscn3797b.jpg/
Offline RayF  
#79 Posted : 13 May 2011 10:08:47(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,840
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Hi Sachin,

That's a great set!

I love the train it brings, and it's also a great way to get the new MS2.

I've been considering replacing my old 6021 controller, and this looks like a good way of doing it. Let us know how it all works together.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline FishTankFishy  
#80 Posted : 13 May 2011 10:24:02(UTC)
FishTankFishy


Joined: 19/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 27
Location: Sweden
Thanks Ray. Will keep you posted with pictures.
Any inputs on Loco card which is missing from the set? Or it does not matter really.

Sachin
Offline RayF  
#81 Posted : 13 May 2011 11:01:50(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,840
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
Originally Posted by: FishTankFishy Go to Quoted Post
Thanks Ray. Will keep you posted with pictures.
Any inputs on Loco card which is missing from the set? Or it does not matter really.

Sachin


Sorry, can't help you on that. I believe the purpose of the loco card is to enter the details of the loco onto the CS2 quickly, without having to search for it in the database, but this is not something I have experience with.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline gachar001  
#82 Posted : 16 May 2011 22:57:28(UTC)
gachar001

India   
Joined: 29/04/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,391
Location: Chennai
I think the loco card will be in the same plastic bag as the instruction book or hidden in the box somewhere. I have a couple of them that came with my CS2 but never used them. I think it is to quickly pull up a loco by just inserting the card.
Gautham
Atlanta, GA USA
Offline Dimi194  
#83 Posted : 17 May 2011 01:14:43(UTC)
Dimi194

Australia   
Joined: 21/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 382
Yea, If you can't find your card then don't stress, just enter the train through the database. If you really want a card, then you can buy them and program them yourself...
Author of the gritty sci-fi novel 'Stories of Earth: WWIII' (featuring an awesome train chase)
Avid YouTuber (XtremeTrainz and TrainzXtreme) and train person!
Offline Dimi194  
#84 Posted : 17 May 2011 01:17:48(UTC)
Dimi194

Australia   
Joined: 21/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 382
Yea, If you can't find your card then don't stress, just enter the train through the database. If you really want a card, then you can buy them and program them yourself...
Author of the gritty sci-fi novel 'Stories of Earth: WWIII' (featuring an awesome train chase)
Avid YouTuber (XtremeTrainz and TrainzXtreme) and train person!
Offline FishTankFishy  
#85 Posted : 17 July 2011 12:00:05(UTC)
FishTankFishy


Joined: 19/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 27
Location: Sweden
Hi Guys,
Finally got some time to try to setup my new 29483.
Got blocked.

I did not find the Loco card as mentioned in set.

So tried to set the things up and put the loco on the track in the hope of registering itself as mentioned in the manual.

Nothing happens.
This is what I did.

Did connections to track, then MS2 and 60113 control box as mentioned.
Power on.
Put the Loco on the track(It should have detected the Loco and registered it with Blinking mfx showing on the screen as mentioned. Nothing of this sort happens. The loco lights seem to work somehow so power seems to go to loco. Still nothing happens.

Mobile station is up and running.
Tried to find the loco using Find Loco function. Nope. does not work.

Could not find the loco (Re 421 374-0) which seems to be Name Set at the factory as per the manual. Did not find any such. May be I need to have the Loco card itself.

Sachin in confused state from Sweden.
Offline David Dewar  
#86 Posted : 17 July 2011 17:32:23(UTC)
David Dewar

Scotland   
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 7,344
Location: Scotland
No need for a loco card to run trains. I have never used them. You could try a decoder reset then see if the loco will register. Make sure nothing else is on the layout.

dave
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
Offline H0  
#87 Posted : 17 July 2011 18:49:57(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,268
Location: DE-NW
Hi, Sachin!
Originally Posted by: FishTankFishy Go to Quoted Post
May be I need to have the Loco card itself.

You don't need a loco card for an mfx loco - mfx locos should register automatically with the controller.
And AFAIK mfx locos always come without loco cards.
mfx locos cannot be registered from the database or by address, so you can only hope that the loco will register automatically.

What you can do: try a different loco to see if the controller works. Try a different controller to see if the loco works.
It might help to try the loco with analogue voltage (but don't reverse direction when using old blue transformers), then try the MS2 again.

"Find loco" often fails to find locos with LED lights. Wouldn't work for mfx locos anyway.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Offline FishTankFishy  
#88 Posted : 17 July 2011 19:15:23(UTC)
FishTankFishy


Joined: 19/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 27
Location: Sweden
Thanks David.
Decoder reset: How do I do this? I have no knowledge of this and I do found MS2 complicated to navigate.
Is there any pdf for doing such things?? Any links please.
The only thing which worked when I put the Loco on track was Lights were working(when I pushed Stop button).
And yes, this is the only loco standing on the track.
Offline FishTankFishy  
#89 Posted : 17 July 2011 19:21:41(UTC)
FishTankFishy


Joined: 19/09/2010(UTC)
Posts: 27
Location: Sweden
Thanks Tom.
This is my start in Digital world so I do have only this.
Other locos I have are good ol M track Locos.

>>What you can do: try a different loco to see if the controller works.
Can I use my old Markin locos on this setup??

>>Try a different controller to see if the loco works.
This is my start in Digital world so I do have only one controller.

It might help to try the loco with analogue voltage (but don't reverse direction when using old blue transformers), then try the MS2 again.
Can I just disconnect all new MS2, Controller and 24VDC Power supply and connect old Blue Transformer and run this loco on it?? Won't it fry electronics??

Sorry for asking dumb and strange questions. I am really newbie.

Offline H0  
#90 Posted : 17 July 2011 20:17:52(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,268
Location: DE-NW
Originally Posted by: FishTankFishy Go to Quoted Post
Can I just disconnect all new MS2, Controller and 24VDC Power supply and connect old Blue Transformer and run this loco on it?? Won't it fry electronics??

You can run this loco like any analogue loco in analogue mode (but only reverse the direction if you use transformers made for 230 Volts mains voltage (that would void your warranty)).
Remove the track box before you connect the analogue transformer.

Maybe you can find other Märklin fans around (it's only 200 km to Lund (just kidding), maybe stdblom2 is closer to your place) for further testing.

Lights are on? This means there is power on the track.
Lights should go off as soon as the registration process starts.

Did you try it with the full layout?
It shouldn't make a difference, but you can also try with only a single piece of track connected to the track box.

You write 24 V DC. The power supply should have 18 V DC (36 VA).

Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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Offline David Dewar  
#91 Posted : 17 July 2011 21:04:29(UTC)
David Dewar

Scotland   
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 7,344
Location: Scotland
Sorry that I dont have an MS2 so I dont know how much they can do with resetting. Best thing is to find somebody with another loco that you can try or anybody with a CS2 and see if it registers on that.
Start sets a pretty good and providing you use only the parts from the start set it should be OK.
It is just a matter of trial and error but without another loco or controller I realise this will be difficult.
Sorry cant be of more help.

dave
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
Offline Caralain  
#92 Posted : 18 July 2011 00:11:07(UTC)
Caralain

United States   
Joined: 15/08/2010(UTC)
Posts: 301
Location: Bay Area, California
Hi Sachin:

Nice set you bought. I don't know if there is an instruction booklet for the MS2 in this set, but you can download it by following this link:0653 Instructions.

On page 18 of the English version, at the top, you have the instructions to reset locomotives. As you described your problem. I suspect there are some loose cables inside the loco preventing it to run properly. If it is the case, it seems better to go back to your dealer and ask him to test your locomotive.

Best of luck.

Pierre
Offline David Dewar  
#93 Posted : 18 July 2011 14:37:23(UTC)
David Dewar

Scotland   
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 7,344
Location: Scotland
As said above there appears to be a decoder reset with the MS2 so try that. When doing so only have the one loco on the track (sorry just remembered you only have one anyway) A decoder reset can sort lots of problems.
If you are happy about removing the loco body you can have a look to see if there are any obvious loose wires.
If you bought from a reputable dealer then you can send the loco back to them explaining the problem. I am presuming that the MS2 is OK.
Do try first to find somebody near you and even if you post the loco to them they may be able to help by trying to register on a CS2 etc.

dave
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
Offline H0  
#94 Posted : 18 July 2011 14:52:43(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,268
Location: DE-NW
Hi all!
Originally Posted by: Caralain Go to Quoted Post
On page 18 of the English version, at the top, you have the instructions to reset locomotives.

Page 18 describes how to reset the Mobile Station.
Before doing the reset, make sure that no "Memory space in the locomotive list is occupied" (see page 6 of manual).
Maybe the loco registered and you only have to press the loco key a few times to select the occupied "memory space".

BTW: the decoder won't register while the MS2 is in "STOP" state. If all "memory spaces" are empty, put the loco on the track and press STOP so the STOP lights on the MS2 will be off - then wait a minute.

Resetting the decoder would be worth a try, but I don't know how to reset bally mfx decoders that did not register themselves with the MS2.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
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