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Digital conversion - Is It really worth the cost?
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Digital conversion - Is It really worth the cost?
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sudibarba
#51
Posted :
21 April 2010 21:48:40(UTC)
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Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC)
Posts: 880
Location: Augusta, GA USA
I cut off all capacitors and chokes and do not add anyback.They are for radio frequency supression.Mine all run fine without any.Some people think the chokes you get in kits help protect the decoder. The decoder has built in over load protection. Put them on if you want. As I said, I don't and have never lost a decoder other then by my screw ups.
Eric
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GSRR
#52
Posted :
21 April 2010 22:01:23(UTC)
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Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,339
Location: USA
Alan,
Could you possibly post a few pictures? As Eric says, differing opinions for the single capacitor, but nothing else has worked. The only other thing is to triple check your connections, soldering, and proper grounding??
Regards,
Thomas
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rschaffr
#53
Posted :
21 April 2010 22:05:08(UTC)
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Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,181
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
So do I, but that should not cause his problem. On the 3021, the choke is a large oblong device on or near the input from the pickup shoe, I recall. Again, I don't see that causing a problem with the decoder whether it is there or not, but I would remove it if you have not already done so.
One caution make sure that the function common (blue) is not connected to the chassis in any way. If you are using the chassis for the ground on you lights, the blue should be isolated and insulated.
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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aos
#54
Posted :
21 April 2010 22:17:42(UTC)
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Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 526
Location: Salisbury
Many thanks everybody for all the support. Sadly, I am away on business over the next few days. When I return, I will literally remove all the wiring and start again from scratch. It must be afundamental error that I am committing. Regards, Alan.
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aos
#55
Posted :
21 April 2010 23:00:06(UTC)
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Location: Salisbury
Hi folks, Latest News Flash!! - I thought I would give it one more try this evening and hey presto, we have lift-off
Admittedly, I have the lighting wires the wrong way round,
but that is a minor issue. It turned out to be the earth black wire which was not connecting properly
I have cured that by attaching it into the screw hole which held the old reversing unit and tightening the screw, giving a secure fastening
Once again, thanks to everyone for all their patience and advice
I am glad that I perservered.
Without your tremendous encouragement, I would have given up hours ago.
Onwards and upwards is all I can say. Bring on the next loco. I shall continue with the easier ones first. Once I have some of those done, I shall look at doing something maybe a bit more complicated, Loksound, maybe
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GSRR
#56
Posted :
21 April 2010 23:34:19(UTC)
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Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC)
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Location: USA
Alan,
Great news. Can you tell them difference in the running and noise level?
If you look at my picture, lower left of the motor shield, with the blob of solder above the screw? That is the black wire. Some people use the M* 231470 solder clip which you can insert the screw into before placing it into the motor shield.
How was yours place before?
Regards,
Thomas
http://www.modelspoorh0....n%20en%20Esu%20info..pdf
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sudibarba
#57
Posted :
21 April 2010 23:37:08(UTC)
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Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC)
Posts: 880
Location: Augusta, GA USA
aos wrote:
Hi folks, Latest News Flash!! - I thought I would give it one more try this evening and hey presto, we have lift-off
Admittedly, I have the lighting wires the wrong way round,
but that is a minor issue. It turned out to be the earth black wire which was not connecting properly
I have cured that by attaching it into the screw hole which held the old reversing unit and tightening the screw, giving a secure fastening
Once again, thanks to everyone for all their patience and advice
I am glad that I perservered.
Without your tremendous encouragement, I would have given up hours ago.
Onwards and upwards is all I can say. Bring on the next loco. I shall continue with the easier ones first. Once I have some of those done, I shall look at doing something maybe a bit more complicated, Loksound, maybe
Congradulations! As I said a while back, you are now also in a position to do you own repair work as need arises. Ah, now let's see, which spare parts (brushes, tires, motor covers & armatures(rare)) can you amass for your supply room?
Eric
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GSRR
#58
Posted :
21 April 2010 23:41:37(UTC)
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Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,339
Location: USA
Alan,
Going forward this sticky is a good resource.
marklin-users.net forum » General topics » Digital » Motor parts for digital conversion of M locos...
https://www.marklin-user...&m=239257#post239257
Regards,
Thomas
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aos
#59
Posted :
23 April 2010 15:48:15(UTC)
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Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 526
Location: Salisbury
Well, I am back on the railways this morning
. I have rewired the lighting wires so that the correct headlight shines for the direction of travel
.
For anybody who might be interested in converting in the future, here is a list of the lessons that I have learned the hard way
-
It is better to locate the decoder somewhere first! I know it sounds like a trivial issue, but the wiring is extremely flimsy and for the likes of me, with hands like the proverbial bunches of bananas, everything leaps uncontrollably all over the place
. I am sure that those of you who have converted before can vouch for this.
Now, attach the wires to the necessary locations. It just means that the wiring ends up less tangled and therefore, the installation will hopefully be a lot neater.
Since my locos are pre 1984, none of them have the 8 pin interface plug fitted. This meant that I had to cut off the interface plug attached to the decoder. The result is that the wires are rather short, especially for the longer locos. I needed to splice the wires to the existing wiring. On reflection, I would definitely advise buying the ESU extension harness
It is about €3.
Anyway, what do I think of the result?
I like the independence of the digital control
I like the slow running characteristics,
although they are obviously not as good as my new digital starter set BR01 loco. I have kept the 3 pole LFCM. I may look at changing it in the future, but I have a lot of locos to convert, so that is not a high priority.
The old light bulbs do flicker quite a bit, but I suppose that is a small penalty
The motor does seem to run quieter than when it was analog. Could that be wishful thinking on my part?
Conclusion: Definitely worth the effort. I shall proceed with converting the others
.
Once again, a big thank you to Ray, Eric, Ron and others who encouraged me to persevere.
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RayF
#60
Posted :
23 April 2010 15:57:35(UTC)
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Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,870
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
You're very welcome, Alan!
By the way, the motors should and do run more smoothly and much more quietly when upgraded to digital. It is a by-product of effectively changing to a DC motor, with a lot less "cogging" going on at low revs.
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Ian555
#61
Posted :
23 April 2010 16:03:09(UTC)
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Joined: 04/06/2009(UTC)
Posts: 20,289
Location: Scotland
Hi Alan,
Well done.
Ian.
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rschaffr
#62
Posted :
23 April 2010 16:54:15(UTC)
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Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,181
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
Alan:
If the light flickering gets too much for you, Marklin sells a small light socket (part # 276770) that has two wires and fits inside the light base on these older loks. It can be wired to the appropriate light feed for the direction and the decoder function return. This eliminates the flickering . These sockets take the same same bulbs as most digital loks (part 610080, I believe).
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
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GSRR
#63
Posted :
23 April 2010 20:38:01(UTC)
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Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,339
Location: USA
Alan,
When you have a chance can you post a few pictures of the conversion?
Regards,
Thomas
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aos
#64
Posted :
23 April 2010 21:32:20(UTC)
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Joined: 03/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 526
Location: Salisbury
Thomas, must I really, it is pretty untidy, but it does work
. Incidentally, I have just received an email from ETS in Germany to say that they have shipped my order of 3 * 60760 High performance conversion kits. So, hopefully, I will receive them early next week and start the next three conversions then.
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marklinsa
#65
Posted :
23 April 2010 21:54:31(UTC)
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Joined: 26/04/2002(UTC)
Posts: 91
Location: Weltevreden Park, South Africa
Hi Alan
Quote:
By the way. Herman, what part of South Africa are you in? I had the 'opportunity' to work for the gold mines in Welkom for 3 years from 1984 - 1986. What a lovely country. The scenery is magnificent. I had a great time visiting Johannesburg, Durban and CapeTown. Alan
I currently stay in Johannesburg (so called West Rand) and work for an engineering company. I use to sell mining timber to Gold Fields (Kloof and Driefontein mines) some years ago. Its about time you return for a visit!
Herman Steyn
DRG Epoche 2, SBB & Narrow Gauge
www.herman.rula.co.za
http://www.samodelrailway.hot.co.za/
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