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Trix 22044(BR44) or Märklin 39160(Franco-Crosti)?
 Joined: 25/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 633 Location: Montlouis sur Loire, France
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Hi, I'd like to get myself a christmas present. I was thinking about getting the weathered Trix BR44 and convert it to 3-rail, OR getting a Märklin 39160, which is certainly more expensive, but is already converted and uses a C-sine motor.   The price difference between the trix item+conversion & the Märklin item is quite small; Thinking that the Franco-Crosti is a somewhat "different" locomotive, I'd like to get some information on this 39160, mainly in terms of reliability (have you had/heard of any problems with it?), smoothness and pulling power. Many thanks for your feedback. |
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 Joined: 11/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,151 Location: istanbul,
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Hi brakepad, I'd say go for Crosti! It is a very good model with immense pulling power, it has an older fat C-sine motor. It is also a delight to watch; an extraordinary loco, very nicely detailed. Some detail photos of the model here: http://marklinciyiz.biz/index.p...&id=72&Itemid=61Cem. |
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 Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,775 Location: New Zealand
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Brakepad, can I tempt you somewhat? The 22044 at 150 euro plus a Loksound at 120 euros plus postage would be about 280 euros. Does the Franco-Crosti have sound, which your Trix loco would. I haven't converted my 22044 yet, but Cem may have done his.  Edited by moderator 11 January 2011 17:00:17(UTC)
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Joined: 11/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,151 Location: istanbul,
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Bigdaddynz
<br />I haven't converted my 22044 yet, but Cem may have done his. Hi David, I have installed the decoder and sound but no need for 3 rail conversion as of now ... I ran it on 2 rail for a few times; running very nicely but a bit of gear noise. I plan to do some touch-ups on weathering. You see brakepad, now you have to buy both  Cem. |
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,775 Location: New Zealand
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Well........I got as far as clipping the pickup shoe on to the tender......but no decoder yet!
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Joined: 11/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,151 Location: istanbul,
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Bigdaddynz
<br />Well........I got as far as clipping the pickup shoe on to the tender......but no decoder yet!
I really haven't checked the undersides; do you need to cut anything? Is snapping on the slider enough? Cem. |
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 Joined: 16/08/2007(UTC) Posts: 1,752 Location: Jakarta
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by tekin65
I really haven't checked the undersides; do you need to cut anything? Is snapping on the slider enough?
Cem.
If there are two pickup wires (like in T22148) - you'll need to cut the other pickup wire - make sure just the one wire going to the clip-on pick up. That's about it.... With the Trix you'd want to leave the DC wheels to save cost - no great disadvantage IMO; though usually DC models came with less traction tyres compared to Marklin version - T22044 came with 4 though, same as the Marklin one. I've seen people actually replaced these with AC wheels for a more "proper" conversion. |
Now collecting C-Sine models. |
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,775 Location: New Zealand
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by tekin65<br /> Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Bigdaddynz
<br />Well........I got as far as clipping the pickup shoe on to the tender......but no decoder yet!
I really haven't checked the undersides; do you need to cut anything? Is snapping on the slider enough? Cem. Cem, there are 3 DC pickups. The front one is screwed on, and the other 2 are clipped on. The pickups make contact with 3 contact points mounted in the centre of the chassis. I clipped a pickup shoe over the rear contact point, there is no need to modify any thing else, as the other 2 contact points will no longer be touching anything. And as Tim suggests, I think you could leave the DC wheels on it, the track return would be going to one side only in that case.
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 Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
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BETTER idea, the Trix has 2 Pickups on each Pair of Wheels. One Positive , one Negative. Cut the red Wire and Solder to the Black Wire. Now two earths (track returns) to the wheels. Solder the red to the Central Slider. |
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders
and a hose pipe on the aorta
Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around |
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,775 Location: New Zealand
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Sorry Nev, not so, the 22042 and 22044 has three pickups, all of them on the positive side. Remove all three, replace the rear one with a pickup shoe, and leave the other two unconnected. As far as I can make out there is no need to remove or re wire any wires.
No need to solder the red wire to the Central Slider, it is already connected to the contact point just the same as a Marklin loco would be. Clipping the pickup shoe on means the shoe will make contact with the contact in the loco's body. No soldering required.
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Joined: 29/08/2003(UTC)
Posts: 1,915
Location: Netherlands
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The Marklin franco crosti loc. Is a very good loc with the old sinusengine, it has a better engine then the Trix br44.
I have the Franco Crosti loc and she drives very good on c, k and m-track.
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M-track with a CS2. |
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 Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 15,871 Location: Gibraltar, Europe
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Given the choice between one which is factory ready, and one which you have to convert, I would go for the factory ready one. Even more so if the cost is about the same. |
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
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Joined: 01/04/2009(UTC)
Posts: 157
Location: San Francisco, CA
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I'll take the BR42 for sure.
There is additional expense/hassle/risk in converting a Trix DC Br44 into a Marklin AC model too! |
Troy
San Francisco, USA
Marklin HO - all eras and everything. |
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Joined: 29/08/2003(UTC)
Posts: 1,915
Location: Netherlands
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Picture of the franco crosti.   |
M-track with a CS2. |
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Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,165
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I also have the Franco-Crosti. Runs very well with the original big C-sine motor. Sounds a bit "electric" at speed step 1 though, as all the old big C-sines do... |
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb] |
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Joined: 25/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 633 Location: Montlouis sur Loire, France
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by tekin65You see brakepad, now you have to buy both Cem. Thanks for all your replies and the nice pictures, guys. Cem, I'd take both, unfortunately my budget does not agree with me, and neither does the FD... |
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Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,769 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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I have converted the Trix BR44 to AC.
It is extremely easy, all you need to buy extra is the pickup shoe.
I used the existing DC connections on the wheels as extra earths.
I have the 39161 as well, its very nice just no sound. |
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany |
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,775 Location: New Zealand
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by applor
<br />I have converted the Trix BR44 to AC.
It is extremely easy, all you need to buy extra is the pickup shoe.
I used the existing DC connections on the wheels as extra earths.
I have the 39161 as well, its very nice just no sound.
That was my conclusion regarding converting the Trix locos. Replace the rear pickup with a pickup shoe, remove the other 2 pickups, and plug in a decoder.
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,775 Location: New Zealand
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Applor, did you fit a decoder to your Trix Br44?
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Joined: 25/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 633 Location: Montlouis sur Loire, France
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Finally purchased the Franco-Crosti on an eBay auction. Now I have to wait for some time until it arrives... |
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Joined: 11/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,151 Location: istanbul,
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Brakepad
<br />Finally purchased the Franco-Crosti on an eBay auction. Now I have to wait for some time until it arrives...
Congratulations brakepad, you'll like it. Cem. |
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Joined: 16/08/2007(UTC) Posts: 1,752 Location: Jakarta
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Brakepad
<br />Finally purchased the Franco-Crosti on an eBay auction. Now I have to wait for some time until it arrives...
Didn't really think that you could go wrong with either choice  . Large Sinus steamer vs reasonably priced weathered steamer. |
Now collecting C-Sine models. |
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,775 Location: New Zealand
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Well done Brakepad, I hope you enjoy your new loco. Since we talked a bit about converting the Trix locos to AC in this thread, I thought I would post some photos. The first photo shows the 3 contact points under the loco. The 2 contacts on the tender had clip on DC pickups, and the front DC pickup was held by a screw. The photo shows all pickups removed  The 2nd photo shows an AC pickup shoe clipped on to the tender over the front contact.  Because I do not have decoders for these locos yet, I thought I would try an experiment. The locos come with a small circuit board plugged into the decoder socket which allows conventional DC running. I thought I would try running 3 rail DC on Marklin track, with the loco powered via the pickup shoe. I connected a 12v DC power supply to the Marklin track and put the loco on the track. The loco ran very nicely down the track, and I was able to reverse the loco by reversing the connections on the power supply. So I expect all that needs to be done for AC running is to plug a MM/mfx decoder into the 21pin socket. Edited by moderator 11 January 2011 16:55:24(UTC)
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Joined: 11/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,151 Location: istanbul,
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David hi,
Thanks for the photos and the info.
I wonder if it would be equally easy to convert by installing the pick-up shoe to the loco?
Cem. |
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Joined: 07/12/2009(UTC)
Posts: 35
Location: Paris,
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Hi,
I had the gray and the black Franco Costi, sold the black to keep the insider version.
Excellent lok, although no sound.
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Joined: 11/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,151 Location: istanbul,
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by epierre
<br />sold the black to keep the insider version.
Hi, I think black one IS the Insider model, gray one is MHI. Cem. |
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,775 Location: New Zealand
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by tekin65
<br />David hi,
Thanks for the photos and the info.
I wonder if it would be equally easy to convert by installing the pick-up shoe to the loco?
Cem.
I think so Cem, all that appears to be needed is a pickup shoe and a Marklin compatible 21pin decoder. You can use the same pickup shoe as from 37889 Br44 - part no 206370. It clips on underneath the loco.
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 Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,339 Location: USA
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ETE  ECoS iTrain TouchCab C-Gleis German Era Id & IIIb USA Era IIIb SBB Era III SJ Era IV GC Era V |
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,775 Location: New Zealand
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Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,769 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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Quote:Applor, did you fit a decoder to your Trix Br44? Yeah its running a loksound MFX. Its pretty cool and I love the weathered look. My BR44 has a very noisey motor though, I don't know why and I can't seem to fix it. |
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany |
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Joined: 01/03/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,339 Location: USA
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Bigdaddynz wrote:Thanks Thomas. Sure Dave. Wish I could read German, looks helpful. Tried Google translate but it does not like .pdf Came out a mess. Regards, Thomas |
ETE ECoS iTrain TouchCab C-Gleis German Era Id & IIIb USA Era IIIb SBB Era III SJ Era IV GC Era V |
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