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Offline Aussie Susan  
#1 Posted : 19 June 2025 07:44:46(UTC)
Aussie Susan

Australia   
Joined: 31/10/2023(UTC)
Posts: 30
Location: Victoria, Melbourne
In trying to resurrect my old analog train set (and ultimately convert the thing to digital) I have found that the 50+ years of inactivity has not treated the solenoids in my signals and points well.
Therefore I'm wanting to find the correct/best way to ease up the operations of the solenoids - they try to move a bit but stick, using my finger to assist the movement helps and they complete their operation.
If it matters (i.e. if the solenoids used in various components differ) then the parts are:
- signals - 7188
- points - 5202
Suggestions please?
(Again if it matters I'm in Australia so local or generic product recommendations prefered.)
Susan
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Offline Br502362  
#2 Posted : 19 June 2025 08:15:08(UTC)
Br502362

Finland   
Joined: 05/03/2014(UTC)
Posts: 705
Location: Finland
Hi Susan,

I have used electronic cleaner spray from various brands.
CRC is surely available at auto spareparts shops.

Nayttokuva 2025-06-19 090911.jpg

Cheers
Åke
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Offline ocram63_uk  
#3 Posted : 19 June 2025 09:16:22(UTC)
ocram63_uk

United Kingdom   
Joined: 07/01/2015(UTC)
Posts: 733
Location: England, Suffolk
spray and test, until satysfied
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Offline JohnjeanB  
#4 Posted : 19 June 2025 10:32:39(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3,574
Location: Paris, France


Hi Susan
The old Märklin solenoid accessories do not need ANY oil except a tiny drop in the rods and levers on semaphores.
The inside of the sonénoid is made of a metallic guide (nickelled "U"-shaped guide) in which a nylon core slides.
So any oil residue may bring friction rather than any good.
Usually, when there are operation issues on these, they are cause by previous overheating of the solenoid which causes the inside guide (the U-shaped one and the last top of the U to become narrower and bring friction.
Alas for these there is little you can do. Avoid overheating

Jean

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Offline RudiC  
#5 Posted : 19 June 2025 11:23:31(UTC)
RudiC

Germany   
Joined: 28/01/2024(UTC)
Posts: 61
Location: Nordrhein-Westfalen, Aachen
Polishing the before mentioned metal guide and thus removing oil residue and dirt / dust can help.
I found that carefully filing the inside of the coils' plastic housing with a small flat gold smith / clock makers file may help reducing friction caused by melting due to overheating. Though excessive overheating may have distorted the housing beyond repair.
Regards,
Rüdiger (Rudi)
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Offline marklinist5999  
#6 Posted : 19 June 2025 13:58:33(UTC)
marklinist5999

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 3,951
Location: Michigan, Troy
When cleaning electrical/electronic contacts and parts with plastic, use the plastic safe Deoxit spray-lube. Available from Amazon, etc.
Offline Martti Mäntylä  
#7 Posted : 19 June 2025 14:16:37(UTC)
Martti Mäntylä

Finland   
Joined: 15/11/2018(UTC)
Posts: 434
Location: Uusimaa, Helsinki
Martin has a good tutorial on the topic, see below:

- Martti M.
Era III analog & digital (Rocrail, CAN Digital Bahn, Gleisbox/MS2, K83/K84), C & M tracks, some Spur 1
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Offline ccranium  
#8 Posted : 19 June 2025 17:53:42(UTC)
ccranium


Joined: 30/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 128
Location: Seattle area
Hi Susan,
I'll second the reference to Martin's video; the solenoids are essentially the same on turnouts and signals so cleaning the inner parts can improve both. Both are somewhat fragile but with care can be disassembled, cleaned and reassembled (take care to not break wires' connections!). I'll also second the use of a residue-free electrical cleaner such as CRC. Avoid any that have a lubricating additive imo because it will eventually dry out and/or attract dirt. I've cleaned many of the 5202 and similar turnouts, and many of the old analog signals with great success as long as they haven't overheated and warped. I never lubricate the sliders with anything after cleaning.

Martin doesn't cover the signals, so assuring the cleanliness of the contacts on the slider for using the block controls of the signals is also critical (they're on the exposed end of the slider). After cleaning with CRC, I give them a gentle rub or scrape to remove oxidation on the contacts. I also (reluctantly) give them a gentle reshape if they don't maintain contact properly. Sometimes it takes some trial and error to get it right; a multimeter to check electrical continuity is a big help before reassembly! I use the signals for analog block control of the center rail and the catenary with great results.

I hope this helps. Good luck!
Brian
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Offline xxup  
#9 Posted : 19 June 2025 21:56:38(UTC)
xxup

Australia   
Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 9,598
Location: Australia
I used this one as it is safe for plastics.

UserPostedImage

https://crcindustries.co...ntact-cleaner-350g-2016/

Available at Repco, Supercheap, Jaycar, Autobarn, Blackwoods. But not Bunnings (yet). BigGrin

Cheers
Adrian
UserPostedImage
Australia flag by abFlags.com
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Offline BenP  
#10 Posted : 19 June 2025 22:03:17(UTC)
BenP

United States   
Joined: 04/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 492
Location: USA
I used 'sledgehammer' approach on about 80 solenoid M switches and vintage signals (they got wet/damp). Sprayed WD40 inside solenoid sleeve instead of taking unit apart. Used paper towel to removed excess. All work well again, incl multi-solenoid (2 arm) signals. No residue issues.
I also tested silicone spray, but with limited success.
First try on one unit to test impact.
Ben
Digital M track layout with vintage rolling stock and accessories controlled by CS3+Rocrail; small Z scale layout.
https://youtube.com/play...0kgVYbh0CeDTF-bYXoD_2-V9
Offline Aussie Susan  
#11 Posted : 20 June 2025 01:58:42(UTC)
Aussie Susan

Australia   
Joined: 31/10/2023(UTC)
Posts: 30
Location: Victoria, Melbourne
Thank you everyone for the responses.
@martti - I did actually find that video quite some time after I made the post and it supports some of the other comments about cleaning inside the solenoid. Therefore That is my next step.
While the video talks about the 5202 points, I assume the same applies to the 7188 signals?
As far as I can tell with the points, it is only the sliding part inside the solenoid that is sticking - at least on the points that I've tried so far the track mechanism is moving nicely.
@xxup - I'll look for the contact cleaner. While the lights on the 7188 I've tested are working, I want to make sure that the plugs at the back are also working and it will not hurt to make sure every one of the contacts is clean.
Susan

PS: I was going to ask how to get the solenoid out of the signal I've been using for my testing but I've worked it out. I took out the slider from the solenoid and it is really dirty which probably explains at leat part of my problem.
Offline Aussie Susan  
#12 Posted : 20 June 2025 05:11:36(UTC)
Aussie Susan

Australia   
Joined: 31/10/2023(UTC)
Posts: 30
Location: Victoria, Melbourne
Two steps forward and one step back with the signal.
I've taken out the solenoid and cleaned the inside of the tube and also the slider.
My problem is that the slider is only going about half way either from the 'red' to the green or the other way around. (To be clear, if the slider starts on the 'red' side and the 'green' wire is energised then it travels half way to the green side and stops. If the 'red' wire is then energised the slider moves all the way back to the 'red' position. If I start in the 'green' side then energising the 'red' wire moves half way and then energising the 'green' wire the slider moves all the way back to the 'green' position.)
There is a lever that is moved by the slider that also connects the power to the red and green bulbs - see photo:
IMG_4725.jpeg
If I move that lever out of the way then the slider travels the full distance but with the lever in place the travel is restricted.
I've read that products such as WD40 are bad for these parts, and also I've not yet bought the contact cleaner suggested by @xxup, so I'm looking for suggestions about 'safe' ways to free up the movement of the lever?
Susan
Offline Michael4  
#13 Posted : 20 June 2025 09:26:51(UTC)
Michael4

United Kingdom   
Joined: 02/02/2017(UTC)
Posts: 695
Location: England, South Coast
I'm a believer in lighter fluid and plenty of exercise.

I've had signals where that lever impedes the travel of the shaft. Lubrication may not help much. In one case the lever itself was slightly bent which made it too stiff to travel smoothly. In another the mounting of the lever was slightly bent which made it jam when half way.

It is a fiddly thing that seems to work best when the motion is sloppier than you think it should be!

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