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Rocca		#1 Posted : 10 April 2025 21:20:15(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 632		Dear Märklin Friends, I have put back into operation, improving it quite a bit, a Z scale layout. It measures now 152 x 50 cm. I ask for your help in fixing the tracks to the board. In my previous experiment, I had used Märklin nails, but, in this last case, I realize that the plywood is too hard and the Märklin nails do not enter at all and bend. How can I overcome this problem? What do you suggest as an alternative? Many thanks for your help. P.S.: Before the special nails appeared in the catalog, what was used? Best regards Stefano Rocca
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ciderglider		#2 Posted : 10 April 2025 21:47:30(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/07/2012(UTC) Posts: 66 Location: Leicestershire		I can't speak from experience, but I think it is common to glue Cork to the baseboard, then nail the track to the cork. There is an article about this is in a recent edition of Trainini. Edited by user 11 April 2025 19:24:17(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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Rocca		#3 Posted : 10 April 2025 22:30:11(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 632		That makes a lot of sense...thanks....do you have, please, any reference about the Trainini magazine, please? Best regards Stefano Originally Posted by: ciderglider I can't speak from experience, but I think it is common to glue Cork to the baseboard, then nail the track to the cork. There is an article about this is in a recent edition of Training.
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Zme		#4 Posted : 10 April 2025 23:25:31(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 842 Location: West Texas		Hello. Hope all is well. Some affix a dense foam board over the wood base then use the cork roadbed. If the track has its own ballast it makes it easier. If track is affixed directly to the board the rail noise is much louder. Some like this, some don’t. Using the foam over the wood will tend to dampen the noise a bit. You may do what you wish. Either method will work. Take good care Zme
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ciderglider		#5 Posted : 11 April 2025 00:13:56(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/07/2012(UTC) Posts: 66 Location: Leicestershire		In this Small Scale forum there is a thread called Latest Trainini Update. This gives links to a PDF of each edition of Training. The one with the article about baseboard construction and track laying is August 3024. Edited by user 11 April 2025 19:24:40(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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Carim		#6 Posted : 11 April 2025 09:58:16(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 681 Location: London		I use the Peco track pins (I think that they are thinner than the Märklin ones) and I just pre-drill a small pilot hole first regardless whether I am using cork or laying the track directly on plywood. I think that the odd bent track pin is just one of the joys/frustrations of railway modelling. Carim
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David Dewar		#7 Posted : 11 April 2025 11:52:51(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,446 Location: Scotland		Woodland Scenics on top of the wood then a touch of Copydex glue ever foot or so. Copydex if only used sparingly can mean you can still lift part of the track if required.. Used this for years with C track. Nails can just transmit sound and anyway make it more difficult to lift or replace track parts. Woodland Scenic is expensive but well worth the cost and it lasts forever.
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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marklinist5999		#8 Posted : 11 April 2025 13:19:45(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,865 Location: Michigan, Troy		Yes, but ballasting track more or less eliminates easy removal.
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David Dewar		#9 Posted : 11 April 2025 14:55:49(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,446 Location: Scotland		Originally Posted by: marklinist5999 Yes, but ballasting track more or less eliminates easy removal. Using my suggestion above does not require ballast. The Woodland mats are pretty good as ballast and deaden all sound. Just a touck of copydex holds the track in place . I use this with C track and can lift turnouts etc to check and clean motors or add contact tracks. For me screws and nails are not the way but of course the will work.
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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Carim		#10 Posted : 11 April 2025 15:40:21(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 681 Location: London		Originally Posted by: David Dewar The Woodland mats are pretty good Are you referring to their "Track-Bed Super Sheets"? Noch also make rolls of ballast covered paper (e.g. 00081) - you just cut them to shape, glue them onto the baseboard and then lay the track on top of the ballast paper. I have found that with Z gauge, most of the noise comes from engines with the old 3 or 5-pole motors. The sound from the actual train travelling on the tracks is relatively quiet even if you don't have any underlay.
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JohnjeanB		#11 Posted : 11 April 2025 16:15:18(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,550 Location: Paris, France		Hi Stefano I think the best way is to use the Merkur Styroplast bed system. It take only a minimal amount of time to glue the bed onto the plywood but then you have a silent bed, NOT REQUIRING any additional screwing / nailing of the track. Changing the layout is a piece of cake WITHOUT damaging the track. https://www.merkur-styroplast.de...sbett-Zubehoer:::46.html I have used it on my N gauge layout and it was excellent (not the cheapest but excellent) Cheers Jean
		My layout videos latest vid marshalling yard My Layout
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David Dewar		#12 Posted : 11 April 2025 17:21:37(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,446 Location: Scotland		Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB Hi Stefano I think the best way is to use the Merkur Styroplast bed system. It take only a minimal amount of time to glue the bed onto the plywood but then you have a silent bed, NOT REQUIRING any additional screwing / nailing of the track. Changing the layout is a piece of cake WITHOUT damaging the track. https://www.merkur-styroplast.de...sbett-Zubehoer:::46.html I have used it on my N gauge layout and it was excellent (not the cheapest but excellent) Cheers Jean Hi Jean Looks like that is similar to the Woodland bed. I agree it is not necessary to nail track down as I from time to time change track parts or add a circuit track etc and you dont want nails or screws. I am only using C Track so cant really speak for Z track but dont see a difference regading the base board and a silent bed.
		Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer.
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ciderglider		#13 Posted : 11 April 2025 19:19:38(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/07/2012(UTC) Posts: 66 Location: Leicestershire		Re the Merkur underlay, the Z product line seems to have been discontinued. Happy to be convinced otherwise.
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Poor Skeleton		#14 Posted : 11 April 2025 21:10:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC) Posts: 581 Location: England, Cambridge		Originally Posted by: Rocca Dear Märklin Friends, I ask for your help in fixing the tracks to the board. In my previous experiment, I had used Märklin nails, but, in this last case, I realize that the plywood is too hard and the Märklin nails do not enter at all and bend. How can I overcome this problem? What do you suggest as an alternative? I have used Evo Impact adhesive for my latest layout - the great thing about it being that it "grabs" pretty much immediately. You do have to work quickly and accurately, but there is no hanging around waiting for the glue to dry as there is with PVA, for example. Hope this is helpful Chris
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Rocca		#15 Posted : 12 April 2025 09:17:22(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 632		Dear Chris, Thanks for the suggestion. Do you mean that? https://www.amazon.it/St...id=1744441750&sr=8-1 But, what about, if I need to do solve some problem in the layout? is it easy to make some changes on the tracks or not? Thanks Best regards Stefano Rocca Originally Posted by: Poor Skeleton Originally Posted by: Rocca Dear Märklin Friends, I ask for your help in fixing the tracks to the board. In my previous experiment, I had used Märklin nails, but, in this last case, I realize that the plywood is too hard and the Märklin nails do not enter at all and bend. How can I overcome this problem? What do you suggest as an alternative? I have used Evo Impact adhesive for my latest layout - the great thing about it being that it "grabs" pretty much immediately. You do have to work quickly and accurately, but there is no hanging around waiting for the glue to dry as there is with PVA, for example. Hope this is helpful Chris
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Rocca		#16 Posted : 12 April 2025 09:21:41(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 632		Dear Jean, Apparently, as ciderglider has noticed, the Merkur is dismissing the Z production....what a shame, really!!! your help is always so usefull and priceless. Best regards! Stefano Rocca Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB Hi Stefano I think the best way is to use the Merkur Styroplast bed system. It take only a minimal amount of time to glue the bed onto the plywood but then you have a silent bed, NOT REQUIRING any additional screwing / nailing of the track. Changing the layout is a piece of cake WITHOUT damaging the track. https://www.merkur-styroplast.de...sbett-Zubehoer:::46.html I have used it on my N gauge layout and it was excellent (not the cheapest but excellent) Cheers Jean
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JohnjeanB		#17 Posted : 12 April 2025 11:08:26(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,550 Location: Paris, France		Hi Stefano Sorry I should have checked if the product was still available. Cheers Jean
		My layout videos latest vid marshalling yard My Layout
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hennabm		#18 Posted : 12 April 2025 11:57:59(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/09/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,073 Location: Edinburgh,		That’s not good news. I’ve used Merkur on my Z layout throughout and it was easy to use, for me. I do have a little left over but not enough to do a layout again. Mike
		1957 - 1985 era What's digital?
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Poor Skeleton		#19 Posted : 12 April 2025 13:11:43(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC) Posts: 581 Location: England, Cambridge		Originally Posted by: Rocca Dear Chris, Thanks for the suggestion. Do you mean that? https://www.amazon.it/St...id=1744441750&sr=8-1 But, what about, if I need to do solve some problem in the layout? is it easy to make some changes on the tracks or not? Thanks Best regards Stefano Rocca Hi Stefano, Yes, that's the stuff. This is odd glue in that you apply it to both surfaces, let it dry and then assemble. When laying track, I normally put a sheet of paper between the track and baseboard, peeling it back as I lay the track. The means you only commit to a few cm at a time and have time to make adjustments if you need to. I've never really had cause to remove fully dried stuck down track. I think it is possible but also quite hard work. For the record, most of my experience has been with flexible track where the instant grab is really helpful. Hope this is helpful Ciao! Edited by user 13 April 2025 00:10:09(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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Chas		#20 Posted : 14 April 2025 18:28:13(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 08/01/2023(UTC) Posts: 24 Location: England, Pevensey		Screws, pan head between the sleepers, you can get small enough in height of pan with the length and width to pull down between the ties but over them, on ebay, about 10p for 50, No damage to the track if you do not wish to ballast over the sleepers. Easy to change layouts. Just an idea that works for me, 3, different lay outs a year, same track. Chas
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Manga		#21 Posted : 16 April 2025 14:13:27(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 22/07/2022(UTC) Posts: 62 Location: New South Wales, Sydney		Originally Posted by: Rocca I had used Märklin nails, but, in this last case, I realize that the plywood is too hard and the Märklin nails do not enter at all and bend. How can I overcome this problem? What do you suggest as an alternative? Yes, plywood is a hardwood and those tiny nails are a problem to get into...but not impossible I have had said frustrations with bent nails and have now resorted to making a tiny pilot hole with the sharp end of tweezers so that the nail has a direction to go down into. Then *gently* tap nail with whatever micro-sized hammering device you have, but be gentle and persistent. It will eventually go through. Remember it's not a regular nail that you hammer, but a tiny tack that needs persuasion with many gentle frequent taps. Z-scale really is akin to micro-surgery...why did I ever start in this scale ?
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Rocca		#22 Posted : 27 April 2025 17:38:57(UTC) Retweet
Joined: 28/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 632		Dear Märklin friends, I'm glad letting you know that now the issue is solved. I've added between the orginal plywood and the tracks an 8mm. wood sheet, in which the tracks can be fixed easily....so all is fine now. Thanks to everybody for the suggestions! Best regards Stefano Rocca
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