I just bought my first TELEX lok and it works great; what a cool way to shunt! I've coveted one of these for 50 years...

It doesn't like running at high speed/max voltage with my analog trafos (6627's) though, so the reverser spring needs some additional tension. The manual which came with the lok has an image showing to do it with a screwdriver in between the spring's coils, but that makes no sense to me (it's not possible to shorten a spring that way). I'm adept at adjusting the non-TELEX reversing spring hook on my other analog loks but the hook for this one appears to be more rigid; this one's a puzzler so I'd appreciate any suggestions from the group.
Thank you.
Brian

I agree about not stretching the spring, which is both imprecise and very difficult to undo if you go too far.

Bending the arm as suggested by Paul is a much better way to go.

Thank you, MR, Jim & Jean.

I made time to look at it again. I need to increase the spring tension because the TELEX solenoid is operating at the high end of operating voltage. The challenge with this unit is the arm on the slider is shorter and much wider (1.7mm) than the arms on my other analog loks (like 3022/3034/3037). Those have a very small hook on a long but thin (1.1mm) arm and are easy to bend both ways. While access is also a challenge due it being underneath the circuit board, I was able to grab it while holding onto the end of the slider; it really isn't meant to bend like the 3022/34/34 RELEX versions.





The length of the spring coils when removed and fully compressed is about 3mm, much shorter than the springs for my M-track points, so I don't think substituting one of my spares from points will work either. I found some 7194 spare springs on eBay (5 pack) and will see if a new one will do the trick. If not, I'll try cutting a coil or two out as Jean suggested; my first attempt at that with the existing spring didn't end well...

Thanks again for your help and suggestions!

I've found the easiest way to increase the spring tension a little bit is to unhook one end of the spring and hook it on again one coil in from the end. It's a bit fiddly but works well and doesn't involve permanently bending or stretching anything.
If you need more tension than that then hook it on two coils from the end etc...
This is easiest done at the end that hooks onto the moving hook since this is a bit more pointy so easiest to get between the coils.

It's easy and quite quick to do (depending on your eyesight!).
I did the one in the picture just for the photo and then put it back as it was afterwards.

Adjustment of any old reverse unit has to be done in many areas. The main point is that they are now old and they have the slightest corrosion on all the moving contact faces which stops it running freely. The arm needs to be polished with a near to none abrasive material and apply no oil. This is so the arm moves with the least friction. The points need to be cleaned with same procedure. If too abrasive will scratch and collect dirt in future. Where the arm contacts the ratchet clean with a demel brush. When all done then adjust the spring running with the lights. Lighting has an effect on the current draw and thus the R/U. The spring is then adjusted by adding one spiral at either end at a time. In a nut shell it is quite a craft to learn, however never had one with average use that cannot be fixed to run perfectly with the above.

David