Apologies if this is posted in the wrong section.

I have finally managed to set up a small space for me to start converting some of my locos from analog/delta to digital. During the pandemic, I started reading on the various kits and materials I would need. Whats more, since a few of my nephews have also been graced with their own Marklin starter sets, converting old locos (which I can find for very reasonable prices on the second hand market) is now a usefull skill to have.

To identify the motors I have, I will be relying on this post found in this forum: https://www.marklin-user...ml/service/SEmotors.html

My intention with this post is to document my progress, as well as to seek help in the form of making sure that I am identifying the components that I am upgrading correctly.

The first loco that I am going to upgrade is one that was gifted to me, I believe that the set number is 3395, a steam loco with number 003 131-0. The reason I am starting with this one is because it is big, therefore I can work confortably with it (and in it). Furthermore, I have a similar loco, set number 37953 that I can use as a sort of reference.

Now, for this conversion, I believe I have a DCM motor. To replace it, I have a 60760 Digital High Efficiency Propulsion Set, and I also have ready a decoder that I ordered from ESU (a loksound 5 decoder). I also have a Hamomagnet from ESU (reference 51962). I ordered it for a reason, but that was 4 years ago and I cant remember what I was going to use it for. I believe that I was going to substitute the magnet that came with the 60760.

I will also need LED lamps, to replace the ones in older models. Suggestions as to which lamps are recommended to use, as well as extra bits that one should have handy (ie. resistors, capacitors, etc) are most welcome!

My first step will be to remove the DCM motor from the chasis, along with the reverse mechanism, in order to install the new motor.

Here is a close-up of what I believe to be the DCM motor


Below, the complete motor, along with the reverse mechanism.


I will post again, once I have cleaned and oiled the loco, as well as installed the new motor. Sugestions, and more importantly, corrections, are more than welcome.

Cheers!

Issus something to look at to give you an idea of how I did my BR03 a long time ago when you didn't have such a great selection for speakers & ESU decoders were best at the time:

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Hello Dave, thank you for the images. An excellent source to get an idea on how to place the components. I hope you dont mind if I copy you on some or all aspects!

Issus

Those are not resistors, but chokes / inductors to eliminate interference in radio & TV
They are talking about the capacitors on the old motor shield, so nothing to remove on the new one that comes with the kit.

Regards
Jean-Pierre

Painful progress was made today. The second choke was soldered in place, and the motor was tested successfully.

I then started to replace and install the new wires, which were much too thick for the job (but that was a thin as the had then in my local electronica store). With a bit of green thumb know how, I managed to sit the cables comfortably and installed the head lamp, auxiliary function 1 and return cable.



I then focused my attention on the tender. I replaced the existing wire that went to the pick up shoe, and then attempted to run a wire to the back wheel drive for the left track connection. However, the solder wont stick. I will give a fresh attempt tomorrow, and proceed to dry fit the decoder, before final soldering.



I would appreciate any suggestions on how to attach the decoder. I was sure that the kit would come with a plastic casing of sorts in order to attach it to the loco, but it is not the case.

My first idea would be to isolate the area with electrical tape, and then attach the decoder with double sided tape, but I wonder if there is a more practical or elegant solution?

A quick search through the internet yielded a 3d file that I could print in order to sit the decoder on the tender section. I think it works quite well.

Soldering the wires to the decoder was NOT fun. I could never get a clean soldering point, because the solder stick to the tip of my iron, no matter how clean I try to be.

The wire shield retracting because of the heat that needed to be applied to the decoder in oder to attach the wires results in a poor job. I will most likely have to redo the entire installation, with thinner wire and a smaller soldering point.



I can move ahead with the programming, which I will do tonight or tomorrow. If anyone has experience with the ESU lok programmer, is there anything I should watch out for?

Im setting up a small section of track, red wite connecting to the B terminal and black to the O terminal in Marklin tracks.

In this case, I have enough room for the chokes, but the diode on the shield plate needs to be shortened. My main problem is the wires I'm using. Much to big for this particular loco.

I've already decided to substitute them for thinner wire. Hopefully, it will be easier to solder onto the decoder.

That being said, I will hold off on programming the decoder until I'm satisfied with the installation.

I think I have a suitable soldering station. Not the best, I did buy it when I was in college, but I do believe that the issue is more in my skill than the soldering iron.