 Joined: 26/05/2021(UTC) Posts: 198 Location: Australia, East Maitland, NSW
|
Hi,
I was given a BR216 (36218) as a present and it runs fine and fits in well with the vague scheme of my layout. What is odd is that the couplers seem to be 3mm higher than everything else I own, and this has caused a few issues during operation.
I thought I'd just 3D print a NEM socket at the correct height and also make the changeover to ROCO universals at the same time.
The manual shows that the original coupling should just pull out, but I can't move them even with a lot of force applied. I guess I could drill out the locking pin but surely that shouldn't be necessary.
Before I break something, is there a trick to getting them out?
|
 1 user liked this useful post by revmox
|
|
|
|
 Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC) Posts: 5,854 Location: Hybrid Home
|
The Märklin 36218 drawing implies that the coupler #20 needs a screw #17. Oddly the spare part list under the image states that the coupler (#20) article number is E263730, while the spare part list generator to the right states that the coupler article number is 701560. In both lists, the screw #17 equals article number E785070 - see link: https://www.maerklin.de/...lnummer=36218&lang=1Consequently, just pulling would not help... |
|
2 users liked this useful post by Alsterstreek
|
|
|
|
Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,446
Location: DE-NW
|
Originally Posted by: Alsterstreek  The Märklin 36218 drawing implies that the coupler #20 needs a screw #17. I don't think so. With the BR 216 I know, there is a screw that holds the truck frame in place - screw #17. The coupler is just pushed in, held in place by pins on top and bottom. IIRC the pin on top is shorter. I used small screwdrivers to widen the gap and get the coupler it. I think it works best to get the lower, longer pin out first, then also free the upper pin. The amount of force needed made me fear for the integrity of the truck frame, but it survived. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
4 users liked this useful post by H0
|
|
|
|
Joined: 26/05/2021(UTC) Posts: 198 Location: Australia, East Maitland, NSW
|
Thanks everyone. It's certainly a very tight fit, I tried the "lever it apart with little screwdrivers" approach and thought if I went any further then this new loco would be wrecked. If I drill through the locking pin with the right size drill then I can fit a replacement pin later if the 3D printing idea doesn't work out. I have drills in 0.1mm increments and a lathe so this wouldn't be hard. If anyone can confirm that the standard coupler on the 36218 is indeed at the wrong height then that would be good. BTW - that would make 5 out of 7 brand new Marklin locos that have needed something minor or major fixed to run properly ...  
|
3 users liked this useful post by revmox
|
|
|
|
Joined: 16/11/2011(UTC) Posts: 5,854 Location: Hybrid Home
|
How about disassembling the entire truck to gain access to the rear pin holding hole in order to release the pin?  The quality of this diesel has been discussed in a Stummiforum thread, but coupler height was not an issue there: https://www.stummiforum....frage-zu-M-rklin-BR.htmlEdited by user 19 October 2023 16:25:05(UTC)
| Reason: Not specified |
|
3 users liked this useful post by Alsterstreek
|
|
|
|
Joined: 26/05/2021(UTC) Posts: 198 Location: Australia, East Maitland, NSW
|
Hi Alsterstreek,
From what I have found removing screw 17 frees the bogie frame 16 - which is a single, solid piece.
The coupling 20 is a push fit into a pocket in the frame. The pocket has a taper (ramp visible on diagram) allowing the plastic coupler to push in easily enough but once it is in it locks firmly. I don't think there is a ramp to enable removal - like a ratchet or fishhook - easy one way, not the other.
I also didn't find any mention of coupler height on the forums - but a rough measurement is 11mm above rail height versus 8mm for everything else. It has uncoupled several times and I don't like things I can't trust.
I will fix this one way or another - I just wondered whether I'd missed something completely obvious to our experts.
|
2 users liked this useful post by revmox
|
|
|
|
 Joined: 21/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,490 Location: Hrvatska
|
The older model has the same clutch, but it is held on the lower side by a metal plate that is fastened to the upper plastic part   With the newer ones, they saved one work operation and made it difficult to change, the clip is difficult to remove by expanding the bed using small screwdrivers, and inserting a new one is a little easier
|
3 users liked this useful post by 1borna
|
|
|
|
Joined: 26/05/2021(UTC) Posts: 198 Location: Australia, East Maitland, NSW
|
I think the answer to the coupler problem can be found by putting 1borna and Alsterstreek's posts together. I ordered a pair of E701560 couplers as indicated in the parts list that came with my BR216. Lo and behold, they are different to mine. Alsterstreek was on the right track when noticed the odd part numbers. The ones fitted to my loco are relex type E263730 and look the same as the old-style removable plate versions in 1borna's picture. They don't match the picture or part number in my manual. The M shop says the 36218 comes with close couplers but, if you look closely, one picture has relex couplers. My guess is that E263730 are the correct fit for old style bogie frames with a removable plate and the E701560 are the correct close coupler type for the new one-piece bogie frames. It seems some old-style couplers have been stuffed into new style bogie frames. That might explain the wrong coupler height and the great reluctance to be removed. I'll drill the "wrong" ones out and see how the "right" ones go. Thanks to everyone for their help. Marklin - where quality is just a word ...  
|
6 users liked this useful post by revmox
|
|
|
|
Joined: 26/05/2021(UTC) Posts: 198 Location: Australia, East Maitland, NSW
|
Coupler changed - no random uncoupling now. A 2mm drill is the thing to get the old ones out - but be very careful not to enlarge the hole in the bogie while you're doing it. The picture doesn't show it well but the coupler is at a bit better height, works well and close coupling is a bonus. Thanks again to everyone. 
|
5 users liked this useful post by revmox
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.
