 Joined: 21/08/2010(UTC) Posts: 502
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Hey everyone,
After a failed attempt some years back, I m ready for a new attempt to build a layout. But I was wondering how the general experience is with marklin z scale track, in particular and which tips or tricks you might have.
For myself I have found out that the double switch is very picky, even after deepening the groove on the diamond, some cars have derailing issues (mostly due to weight in combination with the coupler spring pressure).
The normal switches on the other hand seem quite painless, but the curved ones are prone to powerloss (or the loco s on them do).
So how do you experience and make more reliable track and switches, please share your tricks! Also did some of you put some weight (and what is the best way to) in the really light cars?
Best,
Kristof |
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 Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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My current layout, I decided only to have straight points. Didn't use any curved or crossing points as first layout. Just not worth the headaches. Be very careful aligning fish plates, it seems to be with points that a fish plate can completely go under the rail. Get some spares 8954 & replace if they get damaged (8954 also comes with isolation fish plates). 4 axle locos are the best runners. If you want to go a bit extra, they are easy to add a bit of lead, but if your track has one RL (relative level) you won't need lead unless you are aiming for train length records! Build your track say 50mm above the base board so with your landscaping above & more importantly below the track's common RL, for bridges, rivers, culverts & road underpasses etc. Create an illusion of gradients without actually using any. Landscape negative RL's (lower than track) will make the layout look a lot better. Very easy to do, but only if you plan the layout before laying track. Make a master plan (drawn it out to Z scale). A few freight carriages I have glued a couple of grams of lead to the bottom & use those directly behind the loco. There always seems a few temperamental carriages that derail whatever care you provide! Put them at the end of the train or don't use them. Don't use 145mm radius track. If you insist on gradients, 2% maximum, also better to increase radius to 300mm using the 660mm length rail & cut as required. Use 660mm lengths where you can to minimise joins. Edited by user 04 July 2023 09:19:57(UTC)
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 2 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
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 Joined: 19/03/2015(UTC) Posts: 31 Location: Virginia
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I experienced similar problems with Marklin turnouts, as well as the double slip switch. Mine were straight turnouts (not curved), and the pilot wheels on steam locomotives would not clear the mechanism and the locomotive would stop as it entered the turnout. Additionally, eight-wheeled wagons would derail when moving across the double slip switch. This site provides recommendations to solve the turnout problem. I attempted to shape the mechanisms as described but was unsuccessful. My solution was to replace my Marklin track & turnouts with Rokuhan track. My layout uses 5 Rokuhan turnouts and a double slip switch. I have smooth operation through the turnouts and no derailment problems with eight-wheeled wagons moving over the double slip switch. Good luck!
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1 user liked this useful post by marklin81
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Joined: 02/10/2013(UTC) Posts: 843 Location: West Texas
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Hello, hope all is well.
I like everyone’s comments above. There are pros and cons to your choice of track, both are great. Many don’t like the look of grey plastic “ballast” on Rokuhan, but Marklin and others, require you to do the ballasting.
My advice is to watch out for the hills, if one or more are going to be on your layout.
If you like longer trains, it is possible hills on your layout may present a major problem for a Z locomotive.
Take good care, best wishes for your project.
Dwight
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1 user liked this useful post by Zme
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Joined: 20/02/2017(UTC) Posts: 298 Location: Flanders!
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I love the peco flextrack.
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2 users liked this useful post by parakiet
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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The Peco track is good. It is 600mm vs Marklin 660mm.
The flexibility is great as the sleepers are already designed that way. Marklin sleepers need to be cut every 3rd or 4th.
The Peco sleepers are a bit larger so that may be a bit of an issue if one is fussy about visual issues, say in the foreground.
The fish plates need to be pushed on both ends, whereas the Marklin fish plates are already keyed in place. When you cut Marklin rail cut from the non fish plate end.
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1 user liked this useful post by Toosmall
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 Joined: 09/10/2015(UTC) Posts: 581 Location: England, Cambridge
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Originally Posted by: parakiet  I love the peco flextrack. I've had good results with it, too and it's excellent value in comparison to Marklin track. Cheers Chris
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1 user liked this useful post by Poor Skeleton
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Joined: 21/08/2010(UTC) Posts: 502
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I found out about the fish plates a while back, having an at first unexplainable derailing every time. Thanks for mentioning it :-). I have quite a lot of 4 axle locomotives, but since I like steamers, I have those as well, and they do seem to be a lot more picky. The german crocodile on the other hand is awesome! In z scale the pulling/ traxxion power is for me one of the hardest things I had to get used to, because the difference between n and ho scale is quite big. The idea of the scenery is smart and useful, I m still setteling on a plan, so maybe there wont be any climbs, but the idea of the illusion is great! Isn t 145mm track industry radius? Thanks, Kristof Originally Posted by: Toosmall My current layout, I decided only to have straight points. Didn't use any curved or crossing points as first layout. Just not worth the headaches.
Be very careful aligning fish plates, it seems to be with points that a fish plate can completely go under the rail. Get some spares 8954 & replace if they get damaged (8954 also comes with isolation fish plates).
4 axle locos are the best runners. If you want to go a bit extra, they are easy to add a bit of lead, but if your track has one RL (relative level) you won't need lead unless you are aiming for train length records!
Build your track say 50mm above the base board so with your landscaping above & more importantly below the track's common RL, for bridges, rivers, culverts & road underpasses etc. Create an illusion of gradients without actually using any. Landscape negative RL's (lower than track) will make the layout look a lot better. Very easy to do, but only if you plan the layout before laying track. Make a master plan (drawn it out to Z scale).
A few freight carriages I have glued a couple of grams of lead to the bottom & use those directly behind the loco. There always seems a few temperamental carriages that derail whatever care you provide! Put them at the end of the train or don't use them.
Don't use 145mm radius track.
If you insist on gradients, 2% maximum, also better to increase radius to 300mm using the 660mm length rail & cut as required. Use 660mm lengths where you can to minimise joins. |
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Joined: 21/08/2010(UTC) Posts: 502
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That s one thing I didn t have (yet), the pilot derailing on a straight switch. The double switch issue I have had quite a few times, but here it wasn t limited to 8 wheel cars, but also light 4 wheel cars, the just get pushed over the switch. After adapting it like mentioned on the site, it got better, but the light cars really need more weight. I have the rokuhan stuff too, but loose from being expensive, I m worried about the turnout motor wires on the inside breaking off but also I had issues with the double switch, where trains did derail as well. The other switches were working great. Thanks for the help! Kristof Originally Posted by: marklin81 I experienced similar problems with Marklin turnouts, as well as the double slip switch. Mine were straight turnouts (not curved), and the pilot wheels on steam locomotives would not clear the mechanism and the locomotive would stop as it entered the turnout. Additionally, eight-wheeled wagons would derail when moving across the double slip switch. This site provides recommendations to solve the turnout problem. I attempted to shape the mechanisms as described but was unsuccessful. My solution was to replace my Marklin track & turnouts with Rokuhan track. My layout uses 5 Rokuhan turnouts and a double slip switch. I have smooth operation through the turnouts and no derailment problems with eight-wheeled wagons moving over the double slip switch. Good luck! |
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Joined: 21/08/2010(UTC) Posts: 502
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Hello Dwight, I love the look of both, both of them have something about them and I like them both. The plastic part can be fixed with some drybrushing, so that isn t really an issue for me either. I noticed the traction effort being quite low in z, so if any hills are on the layout, the climbes won t be made too steep. I for myself find long trains and z scale not the best combination, so I will do a double header, or keep the length/ weight of the train in check. Thanks a lot, Kristof Originally Posted by: Zme Hello, hope all is well.
I like everyone’s comments above. There are pros and cons to your choice of track, both are great. Many don’t like the look of grey plastic “ballast” on Rokuhan, but Marklin and others, require you to do the ballasting.
My advice is to watch out for the hills, if one or more are going to be on your layout.
If you like longer trains, it is possible hills on your layout may present a major problem for a Z locomotive.
Take good care, best wishes for your project.
Dwight |
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Joined: 21/08/2010(UTC) Posts: 502
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Parakiet, Toosmall, I didn t even knew peco had z scale track. Do they have switches as well? I can t seem to find a lot about it. Kristof Originally Posted by: Toosmall The Peco track is good. It is 600mm vs Marklin 660mm.
The flexibility is great as the sleepers are already designed that way. Marklin sleepers need to be cut every 3rd or 4th.
The Peco sleepers are a bit larger so that may be a bit of an issue if one is fussy about visual issues, say in the foreground.
The fish plates need to be pushed on both ends, whereas the Marklin fish plates are already keyed in place. When you cut Marklin rail cut from the non fish plate end. |
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Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,475 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: Artologic Parakiet, Toosmall,
I didn t even knew peco had z scale track. Do they have switches as well? I can t seem to find a lot about it.
Kristof
No, it looks like they only have the flexible track and rail joiners. https://peco-uk.com/collections/track/1-5mm-z
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Joined: 21/08/2010(UTC) Posts: 502
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Hey Alan,
Thanks! Looks like it ain t for me then :-).
Kristof |
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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On my own layouts I use Marklin track. On a club layout I used Peco track to save money. The Marklin points do fit the Peco rail, it's just a bit more fiddling with the fish plates which I couldn't be bothered stuffing around with for my layout, but did it for a club layout.
If you are fortunate to have very long runs for a large layout then the savings maybe of interest.
I even have about 20 lengths of 660mm Marklin rail for my next layout, if it ever happens!
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1 user liked this useful post by Toosmall
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Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
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Joined: 20/02/2017(UTC) Posts: 298 Location: Flanders!
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Originally Posted by: Artologic Hey Alan,
Thanks! Looks like it ain t for me then :-).
Kristof I "mix" it with the marklin turnouts and other marklin rails.
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Joined: 21/08/2010(UTC) Posts: 502
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I dont think they had that in epoche 1-4 XD. Originally Posted by: Toosmall |
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Joined: 21/08/2010(UTC) Posts: 502
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That s an option too, but I think I ll just stick with marklin track.
I "mix" it with the marklin turnouts and other marklin rails.
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