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Offline DB Fan  
#1 Posted : 03 April 2016 04:27:42(UTC)
DB Fan

United States   
Joined: 01/03/2016(UTC)
Posts: 240
Location: Colorado
Hello
This is my first post here. I Purchased a Marklin analog crocodile 3356 on eBay. The engine doesn't run. The lights come on and it is humming. I'm hoping it is only a loose wire or needs cleaning. Is there anywhere I could get instructions or a manual for this engine? Don't want to start taking it apart and make a mistake or going the wrong way about it. I'm new to marklin but not to model railroading. Don't have a layout yet but will start on one when we move to our new house. Thanks for any help with this.

Robert
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Offline franciscohg  
#2 Posted : 03 April 2016 06:29:38(UTC)
franciscohg

Chile   
Joined: 10/07/2002(UTC)
Posts: 3,194
Location: Patagonia
Hello Robert, most likely clean and lube is what she needs. If the motor just hung may be for hardened oil on axles a d gears, also you may need new brushes
Regards
UserPostedImage German trains era I-II and selected III, era depends on the mood, mostly Maerklin but i can be heretic if needed XD, heresy is no longer an issue.. LOL
Offline NS1200  
#3 Posted : 03 April 2016 08:56:47(UTC)
NS1200

Netherlands   
Joined: 10/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3,443
I have the 3356 with a metal hood,there are also versions with a plastic hood.
The 3356 i have has Delta electronics,a simplyfied version of digital steering,but it can run analogue without problem.
The Delta PCB has a couple of dipswitches you can reset,putting it in a given configuration it either steers analogue or Delta/digital,this may cause your problem.
I will have a look in the manual later today and let you know.

What is the cabinnumber of the loco you have there?
This will help to determine which version it is.

The middle part can be easily removed to check the inside,i will check the manual for you.

Perhaps spraying with WD-40 will remove any dirt or hardened oil.

It is a truly magnificant machine!



Cheers,
Paul
Have more than you show,speak less than you know (Shakespeare).
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Offline NS1200  
#4 Posted : 03 April 2016 09:54:26(UTC)
NS1200

Netherlands   
Joined: 10/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3,443
Sorry,checked the box,i do not have the manual.

Cabinnumber of my Croc is 13305.

Anyone on this forum able to tell dipswitch settings for 3356?

The middle hood can be easily lifted by releasing the screw underneath the loco.
The PCB is in a vertical position.
Have more than you show,speak less than you know (Shakespeare).
Offline jvuye  
#5 Posted : 03 April 2016 10:10:44(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: NS1200 Go to Quoted Post
Sorry,checked the box,i do not have the manual.

Cabinnumber of my Croc is 13305.

Anyone on this forum able to tell dipswitch settings for 3356?

The middle hood can be easily lifted by releasing the screw underneath the loco.
The PCB is in a vertical position.


Assuming it is a Delta loco (13305) , For analog operation all four dip switches of the Delta decoder need to be in the "zero"position.

On the other hand WD 40 is sometimes working ok, but always leaves some persistent oily residue, not ideal in all case., it can e.g. start a carbon residue clogging on the commutator, and worse even damage the paint on the body work.

Best cleaning procedure is to use a few drops of lighter fluid (aka benzene) in the gears and bearing, give it the time to work itself in and of course wait long enough, until it's all dried up.

This leaves **no residue**.
I even use it to unlock mechanisms of older quartz watches. (I did not make this up, a watchmaker/repair man told me...)
Good luck

Cheers Jacques
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
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Offline Bigdaddynz  
#6 Posted : 03 April 2016 12:18:11(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,459
Location: New Zealand
Originally Posted by: DB Fan Go to Quoted Post
Is there anywhere I could get instructions or a manual for this engine?


Welcome to the forum Robert.

Copy of 3356 manual attached.

3352_3356_3652_Manual.pdf (2,886kb) downloaded 315 time(s).
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Offline DB Fan  
#7 Posted : 03 April 2016 14:13:52(UTC)
DB Fan

United States   
Joined: 01/03/2016(UTC)
Posts: 240
Location: Colorado
The number on the cabin is 13302. There is another number on the bottom center 204164. Thanks for posting the manual bigdaddynz . thank you for all the great tips and suggestions you made. I will take a closer look at the engine when I get back from my business trip. Don't want to rush anything. What a great forum and nice people willing to help.
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Offline NS1200  
#8 Posted : 03 April 2016 15:04:13(UTC)
NS1200

Netherlands   
Joined: 10/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3,443
Cabinnumber 13302 has a plastic hood,still a nice loco!
Have more than you show,speak less than you know (Shakespeare).
Offline dickinsonj  
#9 Posted : 03 April 2016 19:46:31(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,543
Location: United States
Originally Posted by: DB Fan Go to Quoted Post
The number on the cabin is 13302. There is another number on the bottom center 204164. Thanks for posting the manual bigdaddynz . thank you for all the great tips and suggestions you made. I will take a closer look at the engine when I get back from my business trip. Don't want to rush anything. What a great forum and nice people willing to help.


I have a 3356 analog croc with the plastic hoods and road number 13302. Mine has always run very well - I really like the older DCM powered loks and how they operate. It was converted to digital by a dealer early in the digital era and I have the parts now to upgrade it to a five pole motor and load compensating decoder. IMHO it is a nice model and well worth putting some effort into it.

I find it useful to remove the brush plate and take the armature out so you can check the operation of the rest of the drive train. There can be old oil issues with the gears/axle bearings/side rods that cause it to not work properly and it is good to see how those strictly mechanical bits work without the motor in the loop.

This is a great forum - you can almost always fine nice people who will provide you with helpful information - I know I always have!
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
I have models from Era I to Era VI, but I try to focus on Eras I & III. Whoops, that one got away from me. Let's just say I focus on cool trains, regardless of the particulars :-)
So many trains and so little time.
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Offline steventrain  
#10 Posted : 03 April 2016 19:58:12(UTC)
steventrain

United Kingdom   
Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC)
Posts: 31,500
Location: United Kingdom
Hi Robert,

Welcome to the forum!
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy.
Offline DB Fan  
#11 Posted : 05 April 2016 04:38:44(UTC)
DB Fan

United States   
Joined: 01/03/2016(UTC)
Posts: 240
Location: Colorado
Thanks again for all the great tips and advice. Will start working on this beautiful engine as soon as I get back home and post an update on what I find out.
Offline mike c  
#12 Posted : 05 April 2016 06:17:15(UTC)
mike c

Canada   
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 7,516
Location: Montreal, QC
I don't know if he is still in business, but Scott at Helmut's might be somebody that you could send the locomotive to to have it cleaned.
I have a Krok from the 26730 Set and the non-powered wheels are seized up. I removed the screws holding the rods in place and those wheels all move freely. so it is the drive wheel that is gummed up. I was going to send it to Scott for a cleaning, but have not got around to it. It seems that every time I want to do something, a new emergency pops up and it gets delayed.

If you are testing your locomotive, you can manually test the non-powered wheels. DO NOT force them if it seems resistant, as you could damage the rods.
The same applies for the motorized wheels. It may be worthwhile to remove the two screws attached to the drive wheel to see if the blockage is there.

This is the second locomotive in my collection (1960s-today) that has gummed up. the other was a Re 4/4II that needed some oil and adjustment of the pressure of the brushes before it started running like a charm. The Krok has been a little more problematic and needs a more intensive clean-up.

Regards

Mike C
Offline H0  
#13 Posted : 05 April 2016 08:11:37(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 14,707
Location: DE-NW
Hi!
Originally Posted by: dickinsonj Go to Quoted Post
It was converted to digital by a dealer early in the digital era and I have the parts now to upgrade it to a five pole motor and load compensating decoder.
I don't know about the plastic crocodile - the metal version requires a special field magnet.
You can grind off a corner of the regular item if you encounter problems in curves with small radii.
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline dickinsonj  
#14 Posted : 05 April 2016 13:44:07(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,543
Location: United States
Originally Posted by: H0 Go to Quoted Post
Hi!
I don't know about the plastic crocodile - the metal version requires a special field magnet.
You can grind off a corner of the regular item if you encounter problems in curves with small radii.


Thanks for that tip - There may be more room under the plastic hood but I have not checked yet. Now I will know to look at for that possible problem when I do the conversion.
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
I have models from Era I to Era VI, but I try to focus on Eras I & III. Whoops, that one got away from me. Let's just say I focus on cool trains, regardless of the particulars :-)
So many trains and so little time.
Offline DB Fan  
#15 Posted : 12 April 2016 02:51:09(UTC)
DB Fan

United States   
Joined: 01/03/2016(UTC)
Posts: 240
Location: Colorado
BigGrin good news! The crocodile is running. Yipee. The main gear on the motor had old grease caked on it and had to scrape it off. took all the drive rods off and noticed that all the wheels where moving freely but the ones what look like flywheels where seized up but i was able to free them up. after a good cleaning and lube everything is working fine now. thanks for all the great advice and tips especially to take off the drive rods. Again a heartfelt thank you to everybody.

Robert
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Offline MALAVIKA  
#16 Posted : 24 November 2022 18:26:40(UTC)
MALAVIKA

India   
Joined: 06/01/2019(UTC)
Posts: 10
Location: Maharashtra, Pune
I am a member of the Marklin forum for a number of years..I am Kumar from India.
I bought a Marklin HO croc 3356 locomotives.
It runs smoothly in both forward and reverse direction.
The problem is only the front shafts attached to the wheels rotate. I have seen crank shafts of all the wheels rotating if the direction is changed the treat of cam shafts stop rotating and then one of the flexible ends of the locomotives is just pulled like a wagon
I feel both rear and front camshafts should move simultaneously irrespective of the direction of the locomotives.
Please help

Thanks
Offline mbarreto  
#17 Posted : 24 November 2022 19:51:09(UTC)
mbarreto

Portugal   
Joined: 18/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,054
I don't understand well what really happens.
The motor in that locomotive is only driving 1 set of wheels (let's call them front wheels) and as you say the back wheels are just acting like the wheels of a wagon.
Do you mean that when the locomotive is on the track all wheels rotate and when you apply power with wheels lifted only front wheels rotate? If it that, that is what is expected...

Regards,
Miguel
Mostly Märklin H0.


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Offline MALAVIKA  
#18 Posted : 25 November 2022 06:28:10(UTC)
MALAVIKA

India   
Joined: 06/01/2019(UTC)
Posts: 10
Location: Maharashtra, Pune
Thanks will check agai and get back to you for further advice
Offline MALAVIKA  
#19 Posted : 25 November 2022 07:03:28(UTC)
MALAVIKA

India   
Joined: 06/01/2019(UTC)
Posts: 10
Location: Maharashtra, Pune
Hello Miguel,
I just checked the loco again only one set of wheels rotate and there is moving of the crank attached to the wheels, this is true in both reverse and forward directions..
When I tried to rotate the wheels manually the same set of wheels rotate, the other set is jammed. I got the locomotive before covid and tested it only last week is there any way to get the jammed set moving. The locomotive runs smoothly in both directions . If you recommend lubrication oil, which oil should I use and which points to oil.
I normally use singer seweing machine oil.
Please suggest a solution. Just to mention I am from India where no Marklin service is available.
Regards and Thanks
Offline MALAVIKA  
#20 Posted : 27 November 2022 05:37:39(UTC)
MALAVIKA

India   
Joined: 06/01/2019(UTC)
Posts: 10
Location: Maharashtra, Pune
I am Kumar Received a reply to my 3356 Loco problem but it seems to have got deleted in my e mail could you please send the soloution again,
sorry for the inconvenience
Regards, Kumar India
Offline MALAVIKA  
#21 Posted : 28 November 2022 13:19:21(UTC)
MALAVIKA

India   
Joined: 06/01/2019(UTC)
Posts: 10
Location: Maharashtra, Pune
Dear All,
A number of members helpedwith advice for my 3356 HO Analog locomotive, The problem was the rear wheels were jammed and not rotating.
After putting a little sewing machine oil as suugested by members of the forum the stuck cranks and wheels started moving. I ran it for about 10 minutes on my Oval HO M Track and it iis working fine.
So Thank you very much for all the help.'Regards,
Kumar India
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