Joined: 26/01/2022(UTC) Posts: 16 Location: New York, Buffalo
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I got myself a 12V DC power supply for powering LEDs on my layout. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWG6YT8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Question: The LEDs I have all have the usual brown and yellow wires. The power supply has outputs labeled -V and +V. Which wire (yellow or brown) goes to positive and which to negative??? The LEDs I have include Faller #180667, and various Viessman lights.
Also: If the LED specs are 12-16V (like the Faller 180667), does that imply that a resistor is already included, and I don't need an additional one?
Thanks! Dan
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Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,489 Location: Lyon, France
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Hello Dan, 1) About resistors, if you use either Faller 180667 or Viessman light masts, the resistor is included. It is either visible (resistor soldered to one wire) or invisible (probably SMC component inside the mast or socket). However, beware if you purchase bulk LEDs. Always put a resistor, 1K is a mean value for most LEDs. 2) Now about the + and - for DC, there is a trick ! If you look at Viessman light masts equipped with LEDs, they have yellow and brown wire (with or without a visible resistor). Now let's suppose you have a 16V Viessman AC transformer, complemented with a Viessman 5215 rectifier which provides 22V DC. Go to this page https://viessmann-modell...nics/108/2a-power-module and click on FAQ tab, you'll see various examples of connections. On these sample connections, you see brown light mast is on brown output of rectifier and yellow light mast is on red output of rectifier, so the conclusion would be, if you apply traditional color convention: OK Brown is ground (-) and red is +. And here is the trick: Now download the 5215 manual, and goto page 2, section 3: Output RED is NEGATIVE and output BROWN is POSITIVE. So in your case V+ is brown, and V- is yellow. I've recently experienced this (I knew it, but has forgotten it): See https://www.marklin-user...frared-sensor#post646793Have fun. Fabrice
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 6 users liked this useful post by French_Fabrice
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Joined: 26/01/2022(UTC) Posts: 16 Location: New York, Buffalo
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Thanks, Fabrice, for the fast and detailed response.
So I hooked things up as Fabrice recommended, with brown to positive and yellow to negative. Then connected my Faller 180667 LED.......and nothing! Bad LED maybe? To check I switched the wires (brown to negative...), and it worked. Oh well, I guess Fabrice got this one wrong, I thought. But then I connected my Viessmann LED lamp (using the same configuration that worked for the Faller)...and nothing! Switched the wires back to Fabrice's recommendation, and it worked.
Seems that Faller and Viessmann have opposite wire configurations for their LEDs... Odd.
Dan
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 2 users liked this useful post by DanK
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Joined: 04/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 480 Location: USA
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Originally Posted by: DanK  Thanks, Fabrice, for the fast and detailed response.
So I hooked things up as Fabrice recommended, with brown to positive and yellow to negative. Then connected my Faller 180667 LED.......and nothing! Bad LED maybe? To check I switched the wires (brown to negative...), and it worked. Oh well, I guess Fabrice got this one wrong, I thought. But then I connected my Viessmann LED lamp (using the same configuration that worked for the Faller)...and nothing! Switched the wires back to Fabrice's recommendation, and it worked.
Seems that Faller and Viessmann have opposite wire configurations for their LEDs... Odd.
Dan Yup, seems crazy, but color coding varies among manufacturers. Just test wiring. Same variation with digital decoder brands, but here testing may lead to fails. |
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 1 user liked this useful post by BenP
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Joined: 16/05/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,489 Location: Lyon, France
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Hello Dan, Sorry for the wrong input about Faller. I don't have the new 180667 LED. However I use the old ones 180670 which have brown & yellow wires, and these ones respect the traditional color code. Seems they have changed their code... What a mess ! As you experienced it, the ultimate way is to swap wires in case of malfunction. Cheers fabrice
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Joined: 19/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,049
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I had a similar polarity issue with Schneider Swiss Type L signals. I wanted to use Marklin 60832's in the mode that allows 8 individual lighting output but the polarity of the power output is opposite what the signals require. This means I could only get four outputs. Not as economical.
Regards, Roger |
Modeling Immensee, mile/km 0 on the Gottard. SBB Era V.
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