Joined: 05/07/2020(UTC) Posts: 326 Location: Mississippi, Vancleave
|
I am asking a question about where to obtain HO scale window and door castings, either metal or plastic. I want to build some model houses and buildings and need the windows and doors.
|
|
|
|
Joined: 28/11/2007(UTC) Posts: 8,225 Location: Montreal, QC
|
I seem to recall that Faller and possibly Kibri had kits that consisted entirely of window and door parts for kitbashing or self made models.
Also try Vollmer, Viessmann, Noch, Auhagen, etc
Google "HO Scale Doors and Windows" or "Türen und Fenstern HO"
Regards
Mike C
|
 3 users liked this useful post by mike c
|
|
|
Joined: 19/08/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,049
|
I've tried them all including Walthers. For euro style Auhagen is best. North American Is Tichy Train Group. |
Modeling Immensee, mile/km 0 on the Gottard. SBB Era V.
|
 2 users liked this useful post by rbw993
|
|
|
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
|
If it is for modern windows you can make them up from Evergreen styrene strips. It will take longer than buying but at least you can build exactly what you need. A thread on solvent I use, some of my architectural models. https://www.marklin-user...sts/t27449-Glue-questionWhat I normally do for frames which is good enough for architectural models. Maybe not enough for a train layout model. Is score lines into 1mm polycarbonate sheet and then rub kids acrylic paint in, using a cotton rag is the best. Tip, put some masking tape on your finger first. Usually you can do a whole wall in one go. Fit polycarbonate to the wall, mark window openings with scalpel. Then score lines on work bench. A model from the 1990s, 1:100 scale, 1mm polycarbonate, scored, black window frames, spandrel panels, green tinted glazing (back sprayed green acrylic lacquer) and matt sprayed back of glazing so you can't see into model, but it looks light. Put window sills on and custom etched balustrade and panels to design. 
|
 5 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
|
|
|
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
|
Here is the overall model. It would look good on a large city HO layout! 
|
 5 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
|
|
|
Joined: 05/07/2020(UTC) Posts: 326 Location: Mississippi, Vancleave
|
Thanks for the replies. I've ordered some windows and doors from Tichy group and will get them this week. I'm interested in building residential and small store models to populate my bare layout. Check the prices on buildings kits. They are expensive, so I want to build my own from scratch.
|
 2 users liked this useful post by Mr. Ron
|
|
|
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
|
Some info I posted down this thread https://www.marklin-user...er-kit-building-servicesIf you have never scratch built houses, start with a square basic building, then gradually do more complex buildings. Always make some plans for the building. Sketch up elevations and roof plans to scale. Complex roofs can be very frustrating with poor drawings. Building a model finds all the mistakes in drawings. Then place the elevation on the material and with a scalpel mark all key corners. Then remove the drawing, with a ruler connect all marks with scalpel. Small openings cut from both sides if necessary. Do not build anything like this first off. You will throw the towel in and never build anything again.  This was made from 0.75 and 1.0mm high impact styrene sheet. Full sheets of styrene are about 750 x 1300mm and cheap as chips. Model shops sell a foot square piece for the same price, go to a plastic supplier. Front door and windows were made from Evergreen styrene strips. Other window frames are scored lines with with paint rubbed in. All spray painted with 150ml touch up cans. 1:100 scale.
|
 7 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
|
|
|
Joined: 05/07/2020(UTC) Posts: 326 Location: Mississippi, Vancleave
|
Originally Posted by: Toosmall  Some info I posted down this thread https://www.marklin-user...er-kit-building-servicesIf you have never scratch built houses, start with a square basic building, then gradually do more complex buildings. Always make some plans for the building. Sketch up elevations and roof plans to scale. Complex roofs can be very frustrating with poor drawings. Building a model finds all the mistakes in drawings. Then place the elevation on the material and with a scalpel mark all key corners. Then remove the drawing, with a ruler connect all marks with scalpel. Small openings cut from both sides if necessary. Do not build anything like this first off. You will throw the towel in and never build anything again.  This was made from 0.75 and 1.0mm high impact styrene sheet. Full sheets of styrene are about 750 x 1300mm and cheap as chips. Model shops sell a foot square piece for the same price, go to a plastic supplier. Front door and windows were made from Evergreen styrene strips. Other window frames are scored lines with with paint rubbed in. All spray painted with 150ml touch up cans. 1:100 scale. You indeed do some fine work. My problem is I work too fast and expect it to turn out good. I now realize that it takes time to do a good job, that it can't be hurried. Just because it is a hobby, doesn't mean you shouldn't spend whatever time needed to do it right. If you were doing it for money, you would do whatever necessary to produce good work. I need to approach any building job as if it were for a paying customer. I have never worked with plastics like styrene. Do you favor it over wood? Do you use the same tools for plastic as you would with wood? I used to build models using wood many years ago when my hands were steadier than they are now. Being retired at 87, I have the time to pursue model railroading and building, but age is catching up with me, so I don't think I can do a project as well as I could at a much earlier age. I do AutoCAD on my computer, so I have no problem creating 2D drawings. Turning the drawing into a 3D object is a different matter as my approach has to be a bit different than it would be for a much younger person. But all I can do is press ahead and hope for the best. I've tried using paper cutouts from Allister Lee, but they are much too flimsy and don't print out well on my printer. I've ordered some windows and doors from Tichy and I hope they will make my modeling easier. I don't want to start with a kit as I would rather design my own and also, I feel the cost of kits is too much. Some kits can cost anywhere from the 20's to well over $200. I'm sur they look nice, but too much $ for my retirement budget.
|
 2 users liked this useful post by Mr. Ron
|
|
|
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
|
I like using wood but never done models with it. The styrene you just score with a scalpel & snap. Window opening score and flex, then the other side score the line and flex more. Use 0.75mm for most things. You can also glue on strips or various pieces to help locate corners, that would help a lot. I often do it to make positioning easier. I usually cut the floor and a ceiling and run the walls around, starting with the easiest wall. The solvent goes off pretty quickly. You have about 15 seconds. If you don't get the position right just pull the joint apart and have another go. Even minutes later. I often make internal "formwork" to hold the structure. Even if it is just wedged between. Toledo rulers (matt surface is better), an engineer square as a cutting edge, god forbid, scalpel (use 10A Swann Morton, box of 100, avoid the no name blades), cutting pad (20years old this one), if using a lot of solvent I put a piece of paper or cardboard down to soak up solvent quickly, start with a Windsor Newton series seven size 0 brush. The kids will miss out on inheritance! Or at least a Sable tail brush. Artificial brushes are a waste of time. Sanding boards, say 240 wet and dry, spray glue it to some styrene or Forex or cardboard, use both sides. Cut a handful of widths (use old blade). Good lighting and darker desktop to increase contrast on job. I am working in a tight space currently. Still doing my Unimogs, almost there. Constructing a highrise building I could have 50 drawings to the model scale stuck on every wall, all over the floor so you can see them at a glance. It can get out of hand. You use them as templates, it's the quickest way to build... when drawings work, often finding mistakes. Actually, for my layout I couldn't be bothered making buildings as they just take far too long. I only build what I can't buy. If you are only going to see parts of the model or only view it from one side, just build what is necessary.  (A few things on the desk for unrelated work) I also do 3D work, a render I did over a decade ago, the customer wanted his balcony to look like the one at Villa Feltrinelli. The pool was a special marble that changes colour with the depth of water. 
|
 4 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
|
|
|
Joined: 15/09/2014(UTC) Posts: 682 Location: London
|
Hi, I am very interested to hear about your building techniques - thanks for all the tips. In the picture you posted, how do you build the curved roof (could you even show us a few photos of how to go about it)?  Do you have any other tips to model complex curved shapes (those that curve in different ways on the x, y & z axes)? Thanks, Carim
|
 1 user liked this useful post by Carim
|
|
|
Joined: 28/09/2019(UTC) Posts: 119 Location: Rogaland, Haugesund
|
Hi For those interested in making models I would highly recommend 3d printing. For perfect fit parts you will need to also learn 3d modelling, but there is a lot of free and cheap models available on the internet. For detailed prints a resin printer should be used, but a extrusion printer can give good results. Ref picture of a home made 3d printed church. Here I printed all part but if you wish to build otherwise you can 3d print the part you want Thor Inge 
|
 5 users liked this useful post by Tie
|
|
|
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
|
Originally Posted by: Carim  Hi, I am very interested to hear about your building techniques - thanks for all the tips. In the picture you posted, how do you build the curved roof (could you even show us a few photos of how to go about it)?  Do you have any other tips to model complex curved shapes (those that curve in different ways on the x, y & z axes)? Thanks, Carim A bit like this:  I build it up from Forex (expanded PVC). In this situation it was built up in layers a bit over size and sanded. Then made a silicone mould to make copies. These days a 3D printer would be better. I will start another thread on base contours.
|
 2 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
|
|
|
Joined: 05/07/2020(UTC) Posts: 326 Location: Mississippi, Vancleave
|
Originally Posted by: Toosmall  I like using wood but never done models with it. The styrene you just score with a scalpel & snap. Window opening score and flex, then the other side score the line and flex more. Use 0.75mm for most things. You can also glue on strips or various pieces to help locate corners, that would help a lot. I often do it to make positioning easier. I usually cut the floor and a ceiling and run the walls around, starting with the easiest wall. The solvent goes off pretty quickly. You have about 15 seconds. If you don't get the position right just pull the joint apart and have another go. Even minutes later. I often make internal "formwork" to hold the structure. Even if it is just wedged between. Toledo rulers (matt surface is better), an engineer square as a cutting edge, god forbid, scalpel (use 10A Swann Morton, box of 100, avoid the no name blades), cutting pad (20years old this one), if using a lot of solvent I put a piece of paper or cardboard down to soak up solvent quickly, start with a Windsor Newton series seven size 0 brush. The kids will miss out on inheritance! Or at least a Sable tail brush. Artificial brushes are a waste of time. Sanding boards, say 240 wet and dry, spray glue it to some styrene or Forex or cardboard, use both sides. Cut a handful of widths (use old blade). Good lighting and darker desktop to increase contrast on job. I am working in a tight space currently. Still doing my Unimogs, almost there. Constructing a highrise building I could have 50 drawings to the model scale stuck on every wall, all over the floor so you can see them at a glance. It can get out of hand. You use them as templates, it's the quickest way to build... when drawings work, often finding mistakes. Actually, for my layout I couldn't be bothered making buildings as they just take far too long. I only build what I can't buy. If you are only going to see parts of the model or only view it from one side, just build what is necessary.  (A few things on the desk for unrelated work) I also do 3D work, a render I did over a decade ago, the customer wanted his balcony to look like the one at Villa Feltrinelli. The pool was a special marble that changes colour with the depth of water.  When you mention scalpel, do you mean the surgical type or the x-acto type?
|
|
|
|
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
|
A 1:50 model, glazing was effectively structural in this model. Then I pre painted Evergreen styrene strips and stuck on for window frames as scored window frames were a bit thin.   The wire balustrade is scored polycarbonate sheet, but no paint. The scratch was enough detail. Scoring tool to scratch lines into polycarbonate to rub kids acrylic paint in. I have also modified the cutter for making a rounded groove. The standard cutter is a V shape. 
|
 2 users liked this useful post by Toosmall
|
|
|
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,467 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: 26/07/2021(UTC) Posts: 635 Location: Sydney
|
I'm more familiar with Wifey lying down while running around!  Certainly nothing happening like in the first image! The marketing people loved it, people would look closely at the model then burst out laughing.
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.