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Offline PedroRyder  
#1 Posted : 13 January 2022 16:35:36(UTC)
PedroRyder

Portugal   
Joined: 04/01/2022(UTC)
Posts: 1
Location: Lisboa, Lisbon
Hello to everyone, I'm Pedro from Portugal

I have a 50 year old Marklin M track system that I have being playing with, since I was 7 years old, but without any experience in adding new components. The most "sophisticated " gear being an automatic level crossing and a couple of electrical turns. The transformer is a 10VA blue. I have two Loco's: 3029 (came with kit) and the 3078. A few other carriages and wagons also. Bought last week a steam loco 3005.9.

When my son was born, I started to buy C type tracks. The kit came with a battery powered high speed train (29200) kit with an infrared control. I have now quite a few tracks and joined to the M track via a 24951 straight. For now, I want to stay analogue. Maybe later I'll change to digital.

For those who had the hassle to read my story, here are some questions, that I would much appreciate to know the answer:

1. How to run all these 3 locomotives (the battery operated is not electric therefore is out of this problem) going around both the M and C track?
2. Which transformer is best to operate this layout of 3 meters long x 2 meters wide and 4 circles of tracks running around
3. If I want to enlarge the number of tracks and add some automatic turns and signs, how much power I need for this layout?

I'm completely in love with this Marklin world after 57 years; just found the magic of this toy!!

Thank you in advance and look forward for some enlightenment on this matter.BigGrin

Pedro
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by PedroRyder
Offline marklinist5999  
#2 Posted : 13 January 2022 21:22:25(UTC)
marklinist5999

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC)
Posts: 1,352
Location: Michigan, Troy
No problem for analog operation. You need M to C transition tracks. Because of the metal roadbed of M track, it may not be the best choice for newer digital operation. A derailment can cause a short much easier because the wheels ride on the metal roadbed. That is grounded to the digital controler, signal decoders, etc. It can take longer for an MS2, CS2, or CS3 to fault stop.
Offline kiwiAlan  
#3 Posted : 13 January 2022 23:56:29(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 6,589
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Is the track from the battery set true C track or the single piece molding with imitation studs down the middle? Only the very early battery sets came with true C track.

If it is the plastic molded imitation C track then you will be able to run your old wagons over it only while the are worked by your battery train. Your old locomotives will not get any power.

Offline cookee_nz  
#4 Posted : 14 January 2022 00:12:07(UTC)
cookee_nz

New Zealand   
Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3,696
Location: Paremata, Wellington
Hi Pedro, welcome.

Adding to what has already been said above, you asked about required Transformer.

The basic rule of thumb is that a single 10VA controller is what comes with a typical basic start set, and would be fine for the 3029 or the 3078 but only a relatively small layout. ie the track the set came with, plus a few extra lengths, or a siding/passing track or two.

The 3005 will 'probably' work ok, but it does have higher power requirements.

If you don't have any lights, or powered accessories then you will be fine. But powered turnouts usually also have a lamp, and if you try to change a turnout, while a Loco is running the turnout may not switch reliably. But of course it might be no problem. Good wiring is the key, and additional feeds to the other side of the layout is always a good thing so you are not totally reliant on the track joins.

Good indication is if the Loco runs well close to the power feed, but then drops off as it gets further away, or slows on an incline, you need to check the track joins are tight and probably add power feeders.

Your next step up is a 16VA controller, this gives you just over 50% more power available but unless you could pick one up really cheaply, you're probably better off to look for a 30VA which is the next step up and would most likely give what you need.

Alternatively, if you have two ovals, you can isolate them where they join (with an electric switch) and have another controller for the second oval, and perhaps even a third if you have a shunting yard etc so you can run and control two or three locos at the same time without going the Digital way. Plus of course you have your battery powered train also.

Hope this helps you. Plenty to learn, but this is the place for it
Cookee
Wellington
NZ image
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by cookee_nz
hvc
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#5 Posted : 14 January 2022 02:33:04(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,210
Location: New Zealand
I know from recent experience that a 3005 will not work with a 10va transformer. Need to use a 30va/32va transformer for those larger locos.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Bigdaddynz
hvc
Offline hvc  
#6 Posted : 15 January 2022 02:48:46(UTC)
hvc

Australia   
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 376
Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia
Hi Pedro,

Welcome to the forum!

Just adding to all of the above - from an electrical point of view, you can regard your C tracks just the same as M tracks. The C tracks are just more electrically reliable.

As Cookee suggests above you can have multiple transformers controlling independent sections of track. You leave the outside rails connected, and just isolate the centre stud connector. Great fun and simple to do, and the trains can still drive from one transformer section into another, often causing confusion and excitement. Also back in the 1970s my Hornby-owning school friends would be blown away by the working catenary (overhead wires), and being able to independently control two locomotives on the same section of track!

While you still have analogue, all of the old M-track principles still apply, including the old Marklin documentation. A site that I really like is http://www.lctm.info , for example if you go to their Marklin library:

http://www.lctm.info/Sec...lioteca/Libros/index.php

this gives you all the information you need on wiring, signals and transformers while you stick with analogue operation.

I especially like this old book:

Screen Shot 2022-01-15 at 12.43.28 pm.jpg

https://mega.nz/file/04V...cC5LstvUzDWyUvL3N5JFDkUM

which gives you the operating principles of railways as well as some tips for a Märklin layout.

The only thing is, use the newest analogue transformers you can afford, and preferably new white ones if you can. Don't ever use the old blue metal ones, unless a qualified electrician has replaced the power cords.

Herman
- Herman
Offline hvc  
#7 Posted : 15 January 2022 03:29:57(UTC)
hvc

Australia   
Joined: 03/06/2013(UTC)
Posts: 376
Location: Melbourne, VIC, Australia
Originally Posted by: marklinist5999 Go to Quoted Post
You need M to C transition tracks.


Pedro already said he was using the 24951 transition track.

Originally Posted by: kiwiAlan Go to Quoted Post
Is the track from the battery set true C track or the single piece molding with imitation studs down the middle? Only the very early battery sets came with true C track.

If it is the plastic molded imitation C track then you will be able to run your old wagons over it only while the are worked by your battery train. Your old locomotives will not get any power.



The 29200 set which Pedro has did come with proper C track with centre studs - I have the same one (it is indeed a very early one of the infrared start up sets)

Originally Posted by: PedroRyder Go to Quoted Post

I'm completely in love with this Marklin world after 57 years; just found the magic of this toy!!


You are in good company there!

Herman
- Herman
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