Hello. I hope all is well.

I have been watching this topic and can see it has become very interesting.

Regarding the Toporama project, last year there was a fellow from New York who took up a Toporama project too. He posted his project on YouTube as he progressed with the work. Here is a link for his posts: (this might not be his first YouTube for his project)



I found it interesting and was surprised with the switch control system he added. Check it out, you can see what he finished with. It has been a while since I watched it, but perhaps the system he added also controls stops and starts etc.

I have heard and understand how the switches you are looking at using have an abrupt stop and start character of train controls which everyone seems to criticize. I have some of these also and planned to use them but have yet to move on this idea. Perhaps these would work well for crossing gates or other similar applications. I could not suggest how these could be cleaned. If it is a failure of that little post in the middle, you might try to lightly clean it with contact cleaner spray (WD 40 pro contact cleaner might be considered, or something you find locally). Use a small drop and then work the switch back and forth to see if it can be saved. As a side benefit, I use this spray to clean the track. I made a small cleaning tool out of a wood dowel and fastened a bit of scrape wool onto it. Adding a drop or two of cleaning spray goes a long way, my tip is don’t soak it as your roadbed glue may be released or damaged. Be carefully.

I am getting sidetracked, sorry.



Regarding catenary there are really no shortcuts. There are quite a bit of different components which go into this system and there seems little instructional guides out there. What I can tell you, the catenary poles are made out of non-breakable nylon or something because it seems they will flex and bend in any direction. The attaching wires on the end also seem to be well designed and up to the task. Clipping the lines to the poles is a challenge but as you do more, you will get the hang of it. Myself, I purchased a number of sets just to make sure I had what I thought I would need. I got the small cork pads for under each pole, but I think these could be DIYed if you have some extra cork. I have two train lines and a station yard and I covered it all, working only a few lines of catenary at a time. When I finally finished, I discovered the problem of removing engines and cars from the rails. (Even a derailment or stall can be a problem). This is why others create a staging yard. I don’t have a staging yard, so I removed the catenary from the station yard, just to be able to get to things easier. You can keep this in mind as you work.

Everyone is right, the z scale can be expensive and more difficult to work with, just because everything is so small. I have been interested in z scale trains for a while now, but only in the last three years have I actually worked on locomotive repairs and maintenance. I have had some successes and failures during this time. One common failure I can share, I think my first project was a railbus motor upgrade. I made certain I had the railbus parts diagram which are available from Marklin’s website. Well, of course I dropped the coupler spring and must have stepped on it in my search. (This is why I always suggest adding a small spot of super glue to the coupler post. This makes the spring and coupler one piece. But be sure to let it dry completely because I didn’t and damaged the truck housing when I assembled it with wet glue but that is another sad and expensive story.)

Well back to that spring, of course I didn’t have a spare. I don’t have a Marklin dealer in my town either. I have to mail order most everything (EBay) I had to order replacements and this was a wait. Once I had this part, I put it all back together but when I put it on the track, it would not work. When you are on your own, you just get a sinking feeling, what now you ask yourself. When this happens I put it aside for a time. I study the parts diagram or study similar models and try to discover where I messed up. These are precisely designed and assembled jewels. Overlook something and you might have disappointing results, but keep at it, ask the forum, and you will likely have a 40 year old classic running on your layout too. I have a few and nothing gives you a more satisfying feeling. For certain, they can still surprise, but to see them traveling around your newly completed layout is what it is all about.

So if you feel like you are spending a great deal of time fiddling around, I believe this is part of the train hobby. Layout assembly can be complicated, engine repairs can be real time burners, and all this can be frustrating. I can tell you, from my experience, you can do it all. Just see it thru, have patience. I had to get a magnifying head set, various tools, and even sonic cleaning equipment and things which make the process easier. I believe this could be expected no matter which scale is chosen.



Hope this long winded post helps.



Dwight

Hello. I have done a bit of research about the wheels

When Mini Club was first introduced the wheels on all wagons were made of black plastic on a metal axle. Soon after introduction, the back of the wheels was trimmed out (see photo) and these wheels were called lite plastic wheels.



This makes it easy to identify the older wagons. Unless changed by someone, the solid back wheels were found on the earlier models.

Sometime around 1979 or so, the wagon wheels were all updated to the polished metal wheels. The most current versions have a blackened surface from 2001. Here is other info about this from the Z Insider

Variants

Märklin plastic wheels installed from 1972 to 1979
From 1972 to 1974 as full wheels
From 1973, the novelties were delivered with light wheels
From 1974 to 1979 as light wheels with a recess on the inside
In 1979, the TEE Wagons received 8734, 8735, 8736 and 8738 metal wheelsets to realize interior lighting
From 1979 then metal wheels
From 1989, state railway freight wagons received spoke wheel sets
Dark nickel-plated from 2001

While there were likely many reasons why there was a move away from the plastic wheels, it is possible the black plastic, thru wear, caused a residue on the track surface which interfered with the electrical contact of the locomotives.

Whatever the reason, we all know it is very easy to switch out the wheel sets whenever you want to. If originality is your primary goal, you can make a switch for the polished or blackened ones, but keep the original ones under the nest of your box.

Hope this helps

Take good care.

Dwight