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Offline 5HorizonsRR  
#1 Posted : 10 January 2021 19:04:38(UTC)
5HorizonsRR

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,862
Location: CA, USA
Hi everyone,

I'm working on a project which uses the old metal marklin bridges for an analogue "high line," subway style. This will live above a C track layout/landscape, the trackage for which is already operational (albeit in need of track screws, for those who saw my topic the other month)

My challenge is that I don't have any marklin piers, nor do I want to use them anyhow. The bigger challenge is the fact there is C track directly underneath, so I need to devise an elevated subway-style system for this.

Have you guys seen anything like this before? I'm trying to ideate something, and the key headaches seem to be as follows:

1- The tabs and center rail joiners that get in the way of mounting any solutions (see image)
2- The solution for mounting at ground level, although that I suspect won't be the hard part.

My Plan B is doing 1/8" spacers to clear the tabs and tongues, then mounting the whole thing on a ~1/8 x 3" hobby board, but this leaves a spacing between the bridges and the board I don't like. I could maybe do it in Styrene and "skirt" the gap, but then it all starts becoming a bigger project than I want for something that won't be around forever.

I think the ideal solution is a simple and graceful form of a U bracket, like my terrible drawing below, but the execution is the question mark.

Anyone have ideas, or seen a similar solution?

IMG_3788.jpgIMG_3785.jpg
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Offline DaleSchultz  
#2 Posted : 11 January 2021 01:58:43(UTC)
DaleSchultz

United States   
Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,997
willing to bend the tabs flat?
Dale
Intellibox + own software, K-Track
My current layout: https://cabin-layout.mixmox.com
Arrival and Departure signs: https://remotesign.mixmox.com
Offline 5HorizonsRR  
#3 Posted : 11 January 2021 17:38:24(UTC)
5HorizonsRR

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2004(UTC)
Posts: 2,862
Location: CA, USA
That was the easy plan. I went to go do it and realized the center rail pickup tongue is almost the same height, despite not looking like it in the image.
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Offline rbw993  
#4 Posted : 11 January 2021 18:36:01(UTC)
rbw993

United States   
Joined: 19/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 954
Lionel made a set back in the sixties that include two trains, one in O the other HO. The O gauge train ran on top of the Lionel no. 111 trestle set, probably two sets actually. Both the Super O track and HO track had the the same 18" radius so the HO train could run through the trestles. Don't have a clue how many they sold! Where do you go from there? But maybe they would work for you. They are available on e-bay and not rare.

Roger
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by rbw993
Offline bigtrak  
#5 Posted : 11 March 2021 18:05:52(UTC)
bigtrak

United States   
Joined: 04/03/2020(UTC)
Posts: 1
Location: Wisconsin, Madison

It's been a while since I had my M-Track bridges. I used to use Atlas pier sets for the Marklin bridges. That
won't work with your elevated plans ... however, I was thinking:

How about some structural plastic I-beam? Use that for the verticals, and the horizontals underneath the track as well.

A realistic I-beam size might be about the same as the depth of the center rail joints, and the tabs on
the bridges. That way you might get a "prototypical" appearance, as well as function from it, and it
would hide the tabs. No need for a spacer either -- the I beams are the spacer.

If you are thinking of adding catenary to your M-track upper level, leave a bit of
room for the under-mounted catenary masts to clip to the bridges.


If your hi-line is quite a bit vertical, sandwiching two i-beams around a dowel or other
real structural material may keep it looking good, and strong as well.

Offline JohnjeanB  
#6 Posted : 11 March 2021 19:44:57(UTC)
JohnjeanB

France   
Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3,083
Location: Paris, France
Hi 5HorizonsRR

Maybe I misunderstand your issue.

Seems to me one easy way is to install the metal bridges with threaded wire (four per bridge; 3 mm diameter I think) with nuts. This is the mechanical solution.

Then you may cover those threaded wires with plastic beams or plastic brick walls for realism.

I don't remember the distance between the 2 threaded wires on the Märklin metal bridges but as the C track is 40 mm wide , you may have to cut the C Track it a little bit (very easy with a diamond or corindon disk on a Dremel like tool.

IMO the key issue will be accessibility to the track underneath (how to remove a derailed train) and curves (because I suspect the solution I describe works for straight zone. In curves, especially R1 (360mm radius) long cars have a hang-over (sorry I don't mean they enjoyed many bottles Flapper but their extremities and central part will bump (collide) with the threaded wire.

Also is the available height is so small that you are worried with the central joiner and bridge vertical flaps they fixing derailed trains is not going to be a piece of cake.

Another solution is using some meccano-like pieces as on the video below (look for instance 1:18 into the video)

Like on old Lionel O gauge elevated tresle sets you may have more space underneath
I hope this helps
Cheers
Jean
Offline Builder01  
#7 Posted : 14 March 2021 02:02:43(UTC)
Builder01

United States   
Joined: 08/10/2020(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Erie, PA
IMG_20210313_182201.jpgIMG_20210313_182433.jpgIMG_20210313_182521.jpgIMG_20210313_182346.jpgIMG_20210313_182056.jpgIMG_20210313_182237.jpg

Attached should be a few photos of piers I made for my m-track bridges. These are wooden, covered with a printed brick pattern. The top is drilled for 4 brass pins. When used properly, the tabs on the end of the bridges allow them to sit on the top of the pier, flat, or, at an angle. Marklin has a clever design. Do not remove the tabs!

You can also make special versions of this style pier with a top that is adjustable to meet the bridge and allow for the tracks below. A single screw goes into the top part to allow it to swivel.

I have made dozens of these. I use a milling machine to drill the pattern for the pins. A simple drill jig that fits on top of the pier could do the same job. To glue the paper to the wood, use a solvent based glue, like UHU. Do not use water based glue. The top of the pier is painted to suit. The base is a thin piece of wood slightly larger than the pier and is screwed to the bottom. It is painted a different color than the pier to look like concrete.
thanks 5 users liked this useful post by Builder01
Offline MHJ87  
#8 Posted : 14 March 2021 03:07:24(UTC)
MHJ87

Australia   
Joined: 02/03/2020(UTC)
Posts: 43
Location: Hunter Valley
Great idea. I have been looking for an alternative to the old plastic ones. I need more than I have and they are becoming hard to get in Australia. Thanks for the idea.BigGrin
Offline DasBert33  
#9 Posted : 15 March 2021 08:16:19(UTC)
DasBert33

Belgium   
Joined: 21/01/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,245
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