 Joined: 24/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 12 Location: California
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I ran into an article and saw they had used a connector for their portable z layout. I thought what a great idea it is, makes it more simple to connect instead of feeding those 4 wires one by one into the Marklin controller. I don't run my z-scale trains often and most of the time it's behind Plexiglass. But when I do run it, I want to have a simple connection. What type of connector is that (looks like these can be found in tower computers?), any other connectors that would work and be easy to find? Any help/suggestions appreciate, thanks.  Edited by user 12 October 2020 01:16:46(UTC)
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 Joined: 05/03/2014(UTC) Posts: 704 Location: Finland
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Hi, Automotive industry uses similar looking connectors which can be found in general auto parts shops. This 12-pin connector in the photo is from the expensive side.  Cheers Åke
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 Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,559 Location: Paris, France
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Joined: 24/06/2013(UTC) Posts: 12 Location: California
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Thank you for all the info. For the Molex Mini-Fit Jr, the specs says it'll take 18-24 AWG size wires. I have the lights hooked up on Brawa 26 AWG wires and Marklin feeder wires. Will it work if I solder the 26 AWG to a larger gauge wire so it'll fit in those connectors? Or is that not recommended?
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 Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,468 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: chiemgau  Thank you for all the info. For the Molex Mini-Fit Jr, the specs says it'll take 18-24 AWG size wires. I have the lights hooked up on Brawa 26 AWG wires and Marklin feeder wires. Will it work if I solder the 26 AWG to a larger gauge wire so it'll fit in those connectors? Or is that not recommended? personally rather than use the Molex connectors I would use standard D type connectors as used for serial ports on computers. A 9 pin connector would do what that Molex one does, and they are more compact. If you need more pins then go to a 15 or 25 pin version. The Molex ones do have one problem I have come across is that it is very easy to bend the retaining lugs on the pins that stop them from pushing out the back of the connector. The connector body design is such that the pins do not stay central in their hole, especially if the wire is being pushed to one side, and then when attempting to mate a connector pair the pin gets pushed back. The bit that sticks out from the side of the pin then bends and curls over, leaving the pin pushed back, and it is awkward to get out because of the bent latch piece. They are really not designed for repeated mates and demates.
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