 Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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So the current conducting coupler design that Märklin is using appears to have changed based on what is shipping with some models. The new design on the left, the older RTS sourced design on the right:  Now its been reported on Stummi's that the price of the new Märklin couplers will be an improvement over the older RTS solution as well. The new couplers being about €1.05 a piece in quantities (buying a box of 50 for 52.50€ from a dealer at MSRP), if we want to replace just the NEM mounted coupler (and already have the other internal ground pickup, wiring, etc in place) If these new couplers also work better on electric uncoupling tracks its a win-win. Then I just need to wait on the updated conducting-coupler kits that include the pickups/wiring/etc to feature the new coupler. --- Quote:Inzwischen sind in der Bucht die ersten Angebote mit den neuen Märklin eigenen Stromführenden Kupplungen aufgetaucht. Wenn man diesen Angeboten glauben kann, haben sie die ET-Nummer E115737. 10 Stück sollen bei dem Händler 14,90 €, 50 Stück 64,90€ kosten. UVP bei Märklin ist 52,50 € für die VPE mit 50 Stück, also 1,05 € pro Kupplung. |
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 11 users liked this useful post by Minok
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foumaro, MikeR, CanadianKid, grnwtrs, ktsolias, jvuye, kimballthurlow, Alsterstreek, dickinsonj, Dave Banks, Bigdaddynz
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 Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Good news! I use a lot of these...will switch to the new one, after I run out of my last supply of 100 pieces purchased from RTS   I usually keep consists as a whole, and fitting non conductive ones (now always the ROCO universal # 40397) at the tail/head ends to couple to the locos. Cheers Jacques |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
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Joined: 11/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 488
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Can you use these couplers in place of the ones they gave the 4228 Rheinegold set and if modifications have to be done if you do? Fred
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 Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
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I'll be using ESU conductive couplers with 2 contacts. (red & brown) especially for consists using the track contact and the overhead wire contact, could also be used for interior lights
John |
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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Originally Posted by: SteamNut  Can you use these couplers in place of the ones they gave the 4228 Rheinegold set and if modifications have to be done if you do? Fred If the plug-in style (based on 4228 description) has 2 conductors in the coupling, then no, because these current conducting couplers only have one conductor - the main power, while one is expected to add a ground pickup from the wheelset in each car. Though the parts list for those cars suggests a replacement coupling is a plain 7203 RTS coupling, and that would indicate yes. |
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Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,165
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I must say that I have never had those old M CCC with the rigid bar working 100%, the 4228 set has always been flickering...
Could of course a wheel grounding issue too, or the coupler pocket to circuit board contact as well...
Have to order a pack of 50 of these to see if there is any difference compared to the older coupler bars... |
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb] |
1 user liked this useful post by Webmaster
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 Joined: 17/04/2003(UTC) Posts: 997 Location: Netherlands
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Originally Posted by: SteamNut Can you use these couplers in place of the ones they gave the 4228 Rheinegold set and if modifications have to be done if you do? Fred Hi, If memory serves me right the 4228 couplers are slightly shorter than the regular fixed current conducting couplings. So if you use these new couplers on the 4228 the gap between coaches will be somewhat larger. Best regards, Gregor
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1 user liked this useful post by Gregor
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,446
Location: DE-NW
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Hi! Originally Posted by: SteamNut Can you use these couplers in place of the ones they gave the 4228 Rheinegold set and if modifications have to be done if you do? Fred The gap between the coaches will be larger. This picture shows the 4228 standard drawbar at the front track and the 7205 standard couplers on the rear track (the power conducting couplers should have about the same gap).  No modification needed if you do not mind the gap. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
1 user liked this useful post by H0
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Joined: 11/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 488
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Thanks for the reply's I would not mind the gap it is a pain to deal with the rigid ones. Fred
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,802 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Originally Posted by: SteamNut Thanks for the reply's I would not mind the gap it is a pain to deal with the rigid ones. Fred I agree. I have replaced the rigid ones in every coach set except my California Zephyr and I plan to do that this year. The rigid bars do give nice tight fits between coaches but as Juhan mentioned they are not super reliable electrically and they make taking a coach set on or off the tracks a real PITA. |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
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Joined: 11/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 488
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Originally Posted by: Webmaster I must say that I have never had those old M CCC with the rigid bar working 100%, the 4228 set has always been flickering...
Could of course a wheel grounding issue too, or the coupler pocket to circuit board contact as well...
Have to order a pack of 50 of these to see if there is any difference compared to the older coupler bars... I just installed them on my 4228 set and there is way less flickering and derailments. I believe the close distance between the cars was a cause of derailments on some of my sharper curves.
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1 user liked this useful post by SteamNut
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Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA
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Joined: 11/05/2013(UTC) Posts: 488
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Originally Posted by: sudibarba marklin part # ? Marklin 72020 and there is two per box and I used four boxes for the Rheinegold set. There are extra parts to retrofit other cars but you do not need them.
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,446
Location: DE-NW
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Originally Posted by: sudibarba marklin part # ? The part # given in the first post is E115737. 72020 is AFAIK the number for the old style of conducting couplers, not the new style discussed in this thread. It could be that both numbers apply to the same product, meaning you might get the old type if the dealer has them in stock or the new type. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS |
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,802 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Originally Posted by: H0
72020 is AFAIK the number for the old style of conducting couplers, not the new style discussed in this thread.
Yes Tom, that is correct. The 72020 contain the same style couplers that have come on Märklin coach sets for some time now. My Orient Express coaches and my Rheingold coaches both came with them from the factory along with a backup set of rigid couplers. The new ones are slightly different, as I saw in the pictures posted in another forum thread, which I can't currently locate. I assume that my Parsifal Insider coaches will have the new ones, although those coaches have yet to arrive. If I remember correctly reviews were mostly positive with just a few issues - wish I could find that thread.  |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
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Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA
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Originally Posted by: H0 Originally Posted by: sudibarba marklin part # ? The part # given in the first post is E115737. 72020 is AFAIK the number for the old style of conducting couplers, not the new style discussed in this thread. It could be that both numbers apply to the same product, meaning you might get the old type if the dealer has them in stock or the new type. E115737 does not seem to be a Marklin number.
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,802 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Originally Posted by: sudibarba
E115737 does not seem to be a Marklin number.
Bulk items are not listed in the normal Märklin single item number scheme - but under Exxxxxx groupings. Märklin lists them this way but it can be hard to find them in their parts diagrams. I often can't figure this stuff out but good people here on the forum have passed these numbers along to me as I have needed them.  Your dealer may be able to order them or you can buy them on ebay, as listed below. These may be the newer design or just the older 72020 - I am not familiar enough with the new design to determine that. It may be as Tom suggested, the new parts as well as the older designs may both be listed under that old number, 72020 . http://www.ebay.de/itm/M...-72020-NEU-/401415715638 |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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That eBay auction appears to show the old style couplers. |
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,446
Location: DE-NW
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Originally Posted by: sudibarba E115737 does not seem to be a Marklin number. The Märklin database shows it is not in stock. But it is a Märklin number after all. Link to German page (I didn't find a way to link to the English page): https://www.maerklinshop.../kupplungskopf-50-stueck |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS |
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Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA
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Thanks to all for the info. I will contact Scott Houseman (Helmut's) to see what
he can get for me.
Eric
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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Originally Posted by: sudibarba Originally Posted by: H0 Originally Posted by: sudibarba marklin part # ? The part # given in the first post is E115737. 72020 is AFAIK the number for the old style of conducting couplers, not the new style discussed in this thread. It could be that both numbers apply to the same product, meaning you might get the old type if the dealer has them in stock or the new type. E115737 does not seem to be a Marklin number. Its a spare parts number (Erzatzteil): https://www.maerklinshop.../kupplungskopf-50-stueck You have to search for the spare parts numbers, that start with E, on the spare parts search system. |
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Joined: 05/12/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,976 Location: CA, USA
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Hi all, reviving this thread. Does anyone know how much the Marklin ground springs run to complement these? Or if they are (relatively) pricey?
I'm debating the cost merit of running a p2 prong plug between cars for lighting vs these couplers and a ground spring. I'm using strip LED's, and trying to keep lighting around $5 per car (sounds crazy, but doable no problem without marklin-brand components) |
SBB Era 2-5 |
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,802 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Originally Posted by: 5HorizonsRR Hi all, reviving this thread. Does anyone know how much the Marklin ground springs run to complement these? Or if they are (relatively) pricey?
I'm debating the cost merit of running a p2 prong plug between cars for lighting vs these couplers and a ground spring. I'm using strip LED's, and trying to keep lighting around $5 per car (sounds crazy, but doable no problem without marklin-brand components) They are about $3 a piece at AJCKids for a pack of five: https://www.ajckids.com/products/Marklin/72050 |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
1 user liked this useful post by dickinsonj
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Joined: 05/12/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,976 Location: CA, USA
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Ufff. I think the ones without wire are a touch less, but seems like I'll be installing lighting connectors after all... |
SBB Era 2-5 |
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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Originally Posted by: 5HorizonsRR Ufff. I think the ones without wire are a touch less, but seems like I'll be installing lighting connectors after all... Yeah, if you don't need to decouple the cars on the layout, its certainly easier to couple it all in a firm assembly like an ICE. |
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Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997
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new couplers @ $2 each, two per coach = $4 before even starting on the actual lighting!
Since I hardly ever separate rakes of passenger cars I will probably go with running wires from car to car - looks more prototypical too (air hoses).
Plus, I have many old tinplate cars without NEM pockets anyway so I have to find a non-NEM solution too.
I will probably need to create some way of getting a full length rake of cars off the layout and to the workbench. Detachable track most likely.
Full length = the length of cars whose lighting current draw do not exceed the capacity of whatever I drive the lights with. Probably a rectifier and some sort of PWM dimmer.
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Joined: 30/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,893 Location: Keene, NH
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2 users liked this useful post by mmervine
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,802 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Originally Posted by: mmervine Good source Mark - nice tip. That looks like a place where I can get a lot of stuff too. Thanks.  |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
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Joined: 30/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 276 Location: Houston, Texas
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I have the new cc couplers on all my passenger cars by means of selling my passenger cars on E bay and buying Marklin passenger car sets . T find that they stay coupled which was not all ways the case with my unlighted cars. Have had a problem coupling to some engine tenders . To get around this I have used an older unlighted baggage car to connect an engine to the lighted cars.
Tex.
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Joined: 30/08/2016(UTC) Posts: 636 Location: Brussels
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A historical footnote. Predecessor to CC couplings.
In my far distant childhood immediately after WWII my first Maerklin loco was a streamlined steamer, BR 05 class I think. It had a couple of female electrical sockets within the accordion at the rear of the tender. Presumably to bring power from the loco and plug into lighting in coaches. Since I didn't have any coaches with lighting, I did not have a clue what the sockets were for, but I remember them.
Jabez |
I heard that lonesome whistle blow. Hank Williams |
3 users liked this useful post by Jabez
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Joined: 10/07/2019(UTC) Posts: 25
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Please delete post. Edited by user 18 September 2020 16:04:14(UTC)
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 Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,564 Location: Paris, France
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Originally Posted by: dickinsonj Originally Posted by: 5HorizonsRR Hi all, reviving this thread. Does anyone know how much the Marklin ground springs run to complement these? Or if they are (relatively) pricey?
I'm debating the cost merit of running a p2 prong plug between cars for lighting vs these couplers and a ground spring. I'm using strip LED's, and trying to keep lighting around $5 per car (sounds crazy, but doable no problem without marklin-brand components) They are about $3 a piece at AJCKids for a pack of five: https://www.ajckids.com/products/Marklin/72050 Hi The merits of using a 2 prong contact couplers are: - less drag because only one return spring is needed in the entire consist - the possibility to use very cheap LED stripes (1€ per meter) - only one rectifier and capacitor needed for one consist - very low current drain (10 mA for one consist) The drawback: - attention when purchasing magnetic 2 pole couplers: some have a weak strength - when connecting one car in the wrong direction it does not work Cheers Jean |
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4 users liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997
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I agree Jean! I plan on going further, and simply run small wires from coach to coach rather than use expensive couplings.
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1 user liked this useful post by DaleSchultz
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 Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,594 Location: Spain
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Magnetic couplers; I too, am thinking about going with these. (but am also looking into TrainTek, for those had-to-get-at rolling non-Märklin stock) But this statement had me wonder; Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB The drawback:
- when connecting one car in the wrong direction it does not work What would be the problem? Of course the cables would have to be CROSSED in the waggon, so that the couplers on both end has the LEFT magnet with the same polarity. Edit; Ah OK, you guys want to have electronics only in 1 car. I was thinking more in line with Martin T.´s (marklinofseweden) method presented a couple of month ago... Edited by user 17 September 2020 07:36:08(UTC)
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1 user liked this useful post by hxmiesa
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB
The drawback:
- when connecting one car in the wrong direction it does not work
Why would it not work based on the direction of the car? Can you not put a tiny rectifier chip in each car so that it picks up the power from the inter car (coupler) power bus and then outputs a fixed +/- arrangement to the LED strip in the car? |
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1 user liked this useful post by Minok
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,564 Location: Paris, France
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Originally Posted by: hxmiesa What would be the problem? Of course the cables would have to be CROSSED in the waggon, so that the couplers on both end has the LEFT magnet with the same polarity.
Much like our curved sectional track; the fishplates are always in the right spot, regardless if we want to insert the track piece turning to the left or to the right... Hi Henrik do the wiring and you will see that either each car has a special orientation or do the crossing (as you suggest) and then you may rotate a car by 180° but the cars need to be in the same order. Alternately if you install a full wave rectifier in each car it is OK Jean |
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1 user liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997
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Make a sketch of a car with positive on one side and negative on the other, the 'bus' lines have to come out the other end at the same side to go into the next coach.
If the connecters were arranged so that the two poles were above and below each other things would work and cars could be reversed.
Adding a rectifier in each coach would drop the voltage by 1.4 volts for every coach. Not so good.
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz
Adding a rectifier in each coach would drop the voltage by 1.4 volts for every coach. Not so good.
Every coach would see the same voltage after it’s rectifier tap on the inter coach power buss - and with LEDs that shouldn’t be a problem. There is no sequential cumulative voltage drop that adds up from car to car. You can the. Rotate cars and connect them in any arbitrary order. |
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1 user liked this useful post by Minok
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 Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,204 Location: Kerikeri
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I am using Bridge rectifiers for my set that are 1/2 the size of a match head, and they are powering 5 of my metal coaches with LED strip lighting. If you use a B Rectifier in each coach, wire the power supply from the pickup coach and use the earth pickup from the wheels in each coach, passing through the B Rectifier [ plus appropriate resistor ], then you will only need the Marklin conductor couplers. Dale, the effort I put in to wiring up the tin coaches was considerable but worth it, but looking at coaches with close couplers, I thought it would be too tricky to run wires. I decided to go with the Marklin current conducting couplers. To stop flickering, I used 2 x 1000 uf condensers in each coach. No flickering. [ they flicker like hell without them, and 2 are needed. bigger uf means bigger condensers which are too big size wise. ] BTW, with this set up, I can run the coaches on the analogue section as well as the digital section. You need B rectifiers on the digital section to clean up the power supply. i tried without the bridge on the digital side and it didn't work [ didn't have the ability to work out why ] The only obvious difference between the digital and analogue is the variable voltage on analogue alters the brightness of the coaches. Another problem I discovered was in my earlier conversions, I faced the LED strips downwards, and they were too bright. On later conversions, I face the LED's upwards. Some are not bright enough now. I suggest setting up a test track to work out what brightness you want. Dereck Edited by user 17 September 2020 04:37:03(UTC)
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Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä |
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,594 Location: Spain
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Originally Posted by: dominator Another problem I discovered was in my earlier conversions, I faced the LED strips downwards, and they were too bright. On later conversions, I face the LED's upwards. Some are not bright enough now. I suggest setting up a test track to work out what brightness you want. Maybe facing them downwards, but then painting/covering them with some semi-trasparent material, until the colour and brightness is correct. |
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,564 Location: Paris, France
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Hi
Each one of us has his trick. Mine is about gluing the LED strip to a plastic rectangle facing downwards but elevated as much as possible to allow the light to distribute.
Of course a resistor in series is needed because the common LED strip I use is self adhesive but also 12 DC rated (and already super bright at this voltage) when the rectified digital voltage is 19 VDC.
So I power down for each coach using a 1 kOhm to 3.3 kOhm resistor. The result is a whole consist drawn very little current (10 mA or so)
With recent LEDs I have been forced to reduce the luminosity almost everywhere on my layout.
Cheers
Jean
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Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997
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10mA per consist is great.
I imagined that using resistors would convert a lot of energy into heat, so while the LEDs are nice and dim, the draw would still be high...
I was experimenting with a buck converters to reduce the rectified voltage down to about 7.5V (for the 12V strips), I need to get back to that project. |
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 Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,481 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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Originally Posted by: Minok Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB
The drawback:
- when connecting one car in the wrong direction it does not work
Why would it not work based on the direction of the car? Can you not put a tiny rectifier chip in each car so that it picks up the power from the inter car (coupler) power bus and then outputs a fixed +/- arrangement to the LED strip in the car? That is what the Marklin 73400/73401 strips do.
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,564 Location: Paris, France
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Originally Posted by: DaleSchultz
I was experimenting with a buck converters to reduce the rectified voltage down to about 7.5V (for the 12V strips), I need to get back to that project.
Hi Isn't this a bit of an overkill.? The energy is so small and no voltage fluctuations as long as you use a SPS (Switched Power Supply= stable at 19 VDC) and not a transformer. Another possibility is to use a cheap potentiometer (some are .5€ apiece in Europe). See here https://www.ebay.de/itm/5-Stuck-...c0255:g:dlgAAOSwb~Ja2FVHCheers Jean |
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 Joined: 28/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 303 Location: Torino,
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How long is your consist ? 10 mA overall means you are running your LEDs much below 1 mA each.
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,564 Location: Paris, France
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Originally Posted by: mario54i How long is your consist ? 10 mA overall means you are running your LEDs much below 1 mA each. Hi Mario My consists are usually 4 cars long (27 to 29 cm long. I measure the current with the CS2 checking what is the current when the slider of the consist is connected and then when it is not. The LED are grouped by 3 in series on the LED ribbon, 3 groups per coach and they are extra efficient large dimension LEDs  Cheers Jean |
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1 user liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 20/01/2015(UTC) Posts: 1,204 Location: Kerikeri
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Hi Jean, how did you light your panorama car. Did you run a strip under your clear roof. I haven't done my TEE coaches yet as they are in mint condition, and I practiced on old used tin plates coaches I managed to get at low prices or ones that have been with me since 1958 when the were second hand then. This is a reference to a thread. https://www.marklin-user...nd-remote-control--ROUGHhttps://www.marklin-user...-Interior-coach-lighting Go to post 186 The Led controller works quite well to turn the LED's of and on and also reduce their intensity. The Buck convertor was a waste of time as I could not get it to work. The CCR worked ok but after my cat dragged a consist off the track while it was going, I could not get it working again. I ended up removing the CCR and the LED controller and just using the wee bridge rectifier and a resistor . I hadn't needed to turn the lights on and off, and if I parked them up, I could turn the power off to the sidings. As you can see from the pictures, I threaded the LED's through the structure of the carriages so cant get at them now. Later on I fastened match sticks across the LED strips and just sat them on the frame of the carriage and held in place by the roof. Much simpler and I can get at them easily now. Still a work in progress. it s fun. I have been in the playing mood over the last two months so only three consists are lit up at the moment. 2 digital and one analogue [ which is the one I did in December last year ]. Dereck |
Northland. NZ REMEMBER 0228 for ä |
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,564 Location: Paris, France
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Hi Dereck
Re my panorama car, I used a LED strip and I may (it was many years ago) have reduced the width of the LED ribbon. Then the ribbon being self adhesive I pressed it on the top of the dome using enameled wire for the discreet connection.
On the other cars Styren plastic sheets (1 mm thick) were used cut in rectangles (car length, ribbon width). As far as possible the cars are not modified (the change is reversible)
Cheers
Jean |
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1 user liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,802 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Does anyone know what the difference is between the two CC couplers Märklin sells, namely 72020 and 72021?
They appear to be the same from the pictures, but that does not make any sense. |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
1 user liked this useful post by dickinsonj
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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Originally Posted by: dickinsonj Does anyone know what the difference is between the two CC couplers Märklin sells, namely 72020 and 72021?
They appear to be the same from the pictures, but that does not make any sense. The smaller bits: clips vs wires and if the ground pickup comes with it or not (far as I can tell) the coupling, kinematic pickup and transfer system is in both, but what is in the kit beyond that is what differentiates them. |
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1 user liked this useful post by Minok
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