Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,277
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Originally Posted by: applor  As I've stated and Henrik has supported, the most important thing for a clean (functioning) track is low humidity.
I've tried graphite on the studs and Kerosene on the rails, neither really improved the situation. Installed a de-humidifier set to 45% and problem solved.
I spot clean a few pukos maybe once every month or two and sometimes I see rubber tyre marks on the rails which I clean off with isopropyl.
So in short, the best way to clean the track is to not have to clean it at all!  Wrong! You must clean your tracks and the wheels on the trains. Even Märklin recommended it. The rail and stud contact always oxid when you have power on to the track. So does even the wheels. The best way to have good contact between the locomotive and the track is to clean the wheels and the rail.Even pick up shoe must clean often. |
H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
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 Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,594 Location: Spain
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Originally Posted by: Goofy Even pick up shoe must clean often. I don't think that I have cleaned a pickup shoe ever... But, what I wonder the most about this goofy statement, is... How has Goofy ever had the need to clean anything, if he changes his stuff every year? |
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 2 users liked this useful post by hxmiesa
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 Joined: 29/05/2014(UTC) Posts: 839 Location: DONEGAL, CARNDONAGH
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2 users liked this useful post by MalinAC
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,594 Location: Spain
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Originally Posted by: MalinAC Well, I'm a Dane, living in Spain, running German trains and talking about it on an English forum. -and I don't have problems either! So I guess that there are more chosen ones than just the Irish. I have around 250m of rails (mostly K, the rest M), and I have never cleaned all of them. Neither do I run cleaning waggons. After 13 years, the layout still works really well, even if nothing runs there for many weeks! As stated many times before; The GUNK that I do have, seems to collect itself on the WHEELS, which I DO have to clean! (albeit rarely, like once a year -and only on some of the rolling stock) |
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3 users liked this useful post by hxmiesa
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 Joined: 01/03/2016(UTC) Posts: 273 Location: Colorado
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Come to Colorado. I live in the western part of Colorado what is very dry and gets at times even lower than 45% humidity and most of the year we are around that number. I have to clean the tracks only every once in a while but as you mentioned static electricity is a some what a problem but there are ways around it.
Robert
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2 users liked this useful post by DB Fan
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Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,277
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Originally Posted by: hxmiesa Originally Posted by: Goofy Even pick up shoe must clean often. I don't think that I have cleaned a pickup shoe ever... But, what I wonder the most about this goofy statement, is... How has Goofy ever had the need to clean anything, if he changes his stuff every year? I do have seen the result why Märklin oxid by of dirt and grease of the tyre and oil on the tracks. What has to change the stuff to do with the science of track cleaning???  Edited by moderator 29 September 2020 10:55:15(UTC)
| Reason: Removed offensive statement |
H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
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Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 497
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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It's my experience, after a couple of years of driving, that the tracks (I use C track) are not the source of the problem whenever a locomotive stops or runs erratically at a certain part of the layout. Unless there is something wrong with the locomotive the problem is always solved by using a graphite stick on the pukos in the area. Before I learned about using graphite (on this forum) I tried cleaning and scrubbing the studs but it didn't help much.
A couple of years ago I visited a club with a large K track layout. At certain points of the track locos would have a tendency to stop. Cleaning the track in the area with a piece of tissue would remove a lot of black dirt but there would still be a tendency for locos to have difficulties in the area. I wonder if the use of graphite on the center studs would have been better because I assume that the rest of the tracks would also be quite dirty without affecting the trains.
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2 users liked this useful post by Copenhagen
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 Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,528 Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
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 Originally Posted by: Goofy I do have seen the result why Märklin oxid by of dirt and grease of the tyre and oil on the tracks You keep mixing oxidation with dirt and grease; it's two completely different things. For e.g. normal iron and steel, oxidation is better known as rust - this is not the problem here  For copper, oxidation is called copper-oxide; it's green and not electrical conductive - also not the problem here For stainless steel and nickel-silver, oxidation is not a problem, since the oxidated layer is electrical conductive........... Per. |
If you can dream it, you can do it! I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide. In case this is not legally possible: I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.  |
3 users liked this useful post by Purellum
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Joined: 07/09/2020(UTC) Posts: 4 Location: Illinois, Dixon
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Hello-
New to MRR and reading this thread jogged my curiosity. Are there specific cleaners that work better for brass rail as opposed to steel or nickel-silver? I am using brass rail track and so I thought I might inquire?
Thanks
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Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 497
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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 Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,768 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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Originally Posted by: hxmiesa
-But I have a question for you; How can you live with only 45% of humidity??
I tried, and below 55% I get more and more static electricity, which is somewhat uncomfortable to live with. (-and very dangerous to fine electronics, like decoders)
My floor is an IKEA lamina "wooden" floor, with all its plastic isolation on top of the concrete cellar floor.
Maybe I should ground my layout, bypassing the IKEA floor and its isolations¿?
I don't seem to have problems with static. I have laminate flooring with rubber mats on top to go easy on the knees etc. when working underneath. |
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany |
1 user liked this useful post by applor
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Joined: 18/06/2003(UTC)
Posts: 3,023
Location: Chennai, Tamil Nadu, INDIA
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Hi All...
After discussing the "Science of Track Cleaning" for over fifteen (15) months, do we know exactly what it is or are we a little muddled-up ? I would very interested in learning more about cleaning K-Track.
Take care and stay safe.
Cheers,
Ranjit |
Modelling in HO Scale - Era III & IV. K+M Track, Analogue + Digital
_____________________________________________________________________________
#Get Vaccinated
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"If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need" - Marcus Tullius Cicero
"Nothing is as powerful as an idea whose time has come" - Victor Marie Hugo
"If you can dream it, you can do it" - Walt Disney |
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,594 Location: Spain
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Originally Posted by: Ranjit After discussing the "Science of Track Cleaning" for over fifteen (15) months, do we know exactly what it is or are we a little muddled-up ? Even with 15 YEARS you would not get it right. I think dirty tracks has been discussed since the very beginning of model railroading. -and probably was one of the earliest topics when this forum was started. Hm. "An ongoing investigation" maybe? (Or "The Neverending Story") |
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Joined: 18/06/2003(UTC)
Posts: 3,023
Location: Chennai, Tamil Nadu, INDIA
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Hehehe... !! We all have such unique circumstances. Like in the case of INOX and IPA, One man's food, is another man's poison !!
It looks like the bottom line is that there is No Science behind Track Cleaning. We just have to make sure the tracks do not get dirty and dusty. I suppose wiping the tracks with a rag and vacuuming regularly should do the trick.
Cheers,
Ranjit |
Modelling in HO Scale - Era III & IV. K+M Track, Analogue + Digital
_____________________________________________________________________________
#Get Vaccinated
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"If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need" - Marcus Tullius Cicero
"Nothing is as powerful as an idea whose time has come" - Victor Marie Hugo
"If you can dream it, you can do it" - Walt Disney |
3 users liked this useful post by Ranjit
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Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 497
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Originally Posted by: Ranjit ... We just have to make sure the tracks do not get dirty... Well, some of the answers indicate that dirt on the tracks is not an issue and that a rigorous cleaning schedule is not needed.
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 Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571
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From the people who runs more trains than anyone else:
Track Cleaning
Tracks need to be kept clean, regardless of 2- or 3 conducts!
When the tracks are dirty the locomotives can’t get power because dirt on the track acts as insulation be-tween the wheels and the tracks and prevents contact. The 15,715 meters rails in Wunderland are no longer cleaned by hand; there are cleaning trains on each track. These consist of a double traction regime (two locomotives) pulling 2-4 cleaning cars.
The cleaning cars have a plate of felt or cleaning stone (a kind of eraser) between the axle, which rests on the rail and cleans it. These plates are regularly changed or cleaned.
In the wider community I think it’s a minority that states track does not require cleaning for smooth running. And I think there is a common understanding that non abrasive cleaning is better than abrasive cleaning. But apart from that I think we can agree there is many different options that may work differently depending on AC or DCC, humidity in your train room, use of wheel tires, amount of dust and probably also your own personal sensitivity to what smooth running constitutes etc.
Best Regards
Lasse |
Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives. |
2 users liked this useful post by Danlake
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,801 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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These days I run all C track and I clean it a couple of times a year or my trains have problems. Clean track is like a spouse, in that it is best to avoid the issues in the first place. For years I always used isopropyl alcohol, even after a dealer said it left a residue that would just make it all worse. I thought that he was confused and now I think that he was right! After I read the article on polarity in various cleaning agents I tried three different low-polar cleaners last year. I see somewhat less gunk on my rails but my tracks still need periodic cleaning. I run a Märklin felt pad cleaning car which needs pad changes at a regular interval but I do clean the whole layout less often after the switch away from alcohol. No doubt I am also behind in wheel cleaning which can defeat the track cleaning very quickly, so nothing goes on my track without clean wheels this year! Everything is currently packed away and that allows for a good cleaning of both track and rolling stock, which is no fun but means a nice functional layout by Christmas.  |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
1 user liked this useful post by dickinsonj
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Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 497
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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To dickinsonj: The only residue pure isopropyl alcohol could leave is a diluted layer/thin film of the dirt that was on the track. I googled 'miniatur wunderland gleis reinigen' and it's always fascinating watching and reading about the attraction. Here it says that they use cleaning trains with felt or cleaning rubber pads and don't do any hand cleaning anymore https://www.miniatur-wun...lbahn/schienenreinigung/In this video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FrddN8DpYAU we see different kinds of cleaning actions. It's from December 2019 and may show some outdated procedures. When they use microfiber rags to clean they seem to use a glass cleaner from a spray bottle on the rags. It seems that they still clean the tracks by hand twice a year because at 15:07 and onwards he demonstrates the difference between a section that has just been cleaned by hand and a section which is scheduled for hand cleaning (unless I've misunderstood something).
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3 users liked this useful post by Copenhagen
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Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,768 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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Originally Posted by: Goofy
You must clean your tracks and the wheels on the trains.
Even Märklin recommended it.
The rail and stud contact always oxid when you have power on to the track.
So does even the wheels.
The best way to have good contact between the locomotive and the track is to clean the wheels and the rail.
Even pick up shoe must clean often.
I am not saying that the wheels or the track don't ever need cleaning. I am saying that at low humidity the track does not need regular cleaning. The wheels and the rails both accumulate 'dirt' from the rubber tyres and need cleaning on rare occasions. Oxidation of the centre studs is dramatically reduced in low humidity to the point that occasional running of the trains negates the need to clean them due to the pickup shoe. Previously I had to clean my entire layout weekly just to keep the trains running when I had no humidity control. Now that I maintain 45% humidity I no longer need to do regular cleaning, only the occasion spot clean of rails from tyre rubber or a small deadspot with centre studs every couple of months. When I clean, I use isopropyl for rails and wheels. I use the roco track cleaner for the centre studs (pukos) I previously tried cleaning rails with Kerosene and used graphite on the studs but without humidity control it made no difference either way. |
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany |
3 users liked this useful post by applor
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Joined: 12/01/2016(UTC) Posts: 165 Location: Michigan, Ann Arbor
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Originally Posted by: dickinsonj No doubt I am also behind in wheel cleaning which can defeat the track cleaning very quickly, so nothing goes on my track without clean wheels this year! Sounds like a New Years weight loss pledge! Phil S. |
Phil S. |
1 user liked this useful post by phils2um
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 Joined: 15/07/2020(UTC) Posts: 45 Location: Occitanie, Canton de Lacapelle-Marival
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Originally Posted by: Harryv40 Hi Everyone,
I wondered how long this subject would be raised again.
..... I discovered these exchanges and I was interested. Infortunately, I live in France and the products named are not avalaible. And I think that the words "PRODUIT POUR NETTOYER LES RAILS" would bot be effective in google search. For many years I used my finger in a dry cloth with a drop of gasoline C for lighters. I dont trust in cleaning gondola. No sufficient weight! Luckily there is no tunnel closed on my layout. Indeed!
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1 user liked this useful post by Garoux
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 Joined: 21/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,483 Location: Hrvatska
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There are big differences between layouts for an audience that drive several hours each day and small private ones that are in use several times a year.
The big ones drive thousands of hours a year until the little ones do it for a lifetime?
I would say, however, that the most important thing is to start with clean wheels on all models and a thoroughly cleaned track, because dirt is easily transferred from one to the other.
Abrasives in small layouts will not do any harm as they are rarely used while in large ones that need constant cleaning it would lead to thinning of the rails.
No cleaning wagon can clean the track as well as your hand, they make sense to maintain the cleanliness once achieved.
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3 users liked this useful post by 1borna
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,801 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Originally Posted by: phils2um Sounds like a New Years weight loss pledge!
Phil S. And about as much fun Phil Cheers |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
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Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,277
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Originally Posted by: Purellum Originally Posted by: Goofy I do have seen the result why Märklin oxid by of dirt and grease of the tyre and oil on the tracks You keep mixing oxidation with dirt and grease; it's two completely different things. For e.g. normal iron and steel, oxidation is better known as rust - this is not the problem here For copper, oxidation is called copper-oxide; it's green and not electrical conductive - also not the problem here For stainless steel and nickel-silver, oxidation is not a problem, since the oxidated layer is electrical conductive........... Per. You miss the real problem what you add to the tracks...power feeder. It makes more grease on the rail and stud contacts with the dust, oil and rubber after traction tyre (locomotive). Oxidation exist support by the power on the rail, because the rail and the stud contact is unprotected or as they says...exposes themselves. |
H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
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Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 497
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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How long time do traction tyres last? Are they worn so fast that they account for a good deal of the dirt on the track?
My take is that the dirt on the tracks is mainly microscopic metallic particles mixed with dust and other microscopic particles.
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand
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Some off topic posts have been removed from this thread.
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6 users liked this useful post by Bigdaddynz
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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Do NOT use inox if you run locomotives with rubber traction tires. Inox, to my understanding, leaves a film on the metal to provide its oxidation protection. Running traction tires over those rails will pick up some of the inox onto the rubber tires. Reports are that this will much more rapidly degrade the traction tires.
And remember a key aspect of this: the goal is not to have clean rails. It should not matter if the rail is clean, or if wiping it with a cloth or finger shows a black streak of dirt.
The goal is to maintain good conductivity, so use products that maintain conductivity. I'd prefer a grey conductive rail that requires very infrequent to almost no effort all day over a shiny silver clean rail that is less conductive or that requires very regular cleaning to maintain that shiny silver state.
Attacking the article that presents the various solvents based on polarity and the discussion in the articles about the pros and cons of polarity on maintaining conductivity or attracting dirt, just because its not scientific enough for your taste is pointless. Its not a peer reviewed research paper, but a collection of expert opinions that serves to guide the reader on better cleaner selection. Use it to try a better option and see if it works better for you. That its not scientifically rigorous doesn't make it worthless, it doesn't make it or its conclusions wrong. Your letting the concept of best be the enemy of 'good enough'. |
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8 users liked this useful post by Minok
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand
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Originally Posted by: Minok Do NOT use inox if you run locomotives with rubber traction tires. There's a warning on the Inox can which says that rubber may be affected by using Inox, so yes this is a pertinent warning.
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Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 497
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Originally Posted by: Minok Attacking the article that presents the various solvents based on polarity and the discussion in the articles about the pros and cons of polarity on maintaining conductivity or attracting dirt, just because its not scientific enough for your taste is pointless. Its not a peer reviewed research paper, but a collection of expert opinions that serves to guide the reader on better cleaner selection. Use it to try a better option and see if it works better for you. That its not scientifically rigorous doesn't make it worthless, it doesn't make it or its conclusions wrong. Your letting the concept of best be the enemy of 'good enough'. If you're referring to my post, #40 and some of the later ones, I'd say that my points are valid. Another thing: Inox is not on the list but some of the other substances on the list might also have bad effects on traction tyres. Acetone is on the list... as far as I know acetone will harm plastic so it shouldn't be there together with other agents that can be used for track cleaning, like IPA, contact cleaner and (soapy) water. At least not without a warning.
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 Joined: 20/02/2017(UTC) Posts: 298 Location: Flanders!
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Originally Posted by: Minok
And remember a key aspect of this: the goal is not to have clean rails. It should not matter if the rail is clean, or if wiping it with a cloth or finger shows a black streak of dirt.
The goal is to maintain good conductivity, so use products that maintain conductivity. I'd prefer a grey conductive rail that requires very infrequent to almost no effort all day.
What do you use?
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Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
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My cleaning days, to be honest I can't remember the last time I've cleaned the tracks, one thing I'm sure is since I've added ball bearings to my motors and not oiling the armature shaft, the tracks are cleaner, the wheels are cleaner, the cleaning work can be done in minutes. another improvement with the layout has been the insulation of the garage in recent years especially in winter time., we've gone through winter and had minimal disturbance regarding the tracks are concerned., the insulation will continue and will be improved further. K-tracks have lasted now for over 40 years and this is something you don't hear very often and the layout modules have been through some tough conditions. So what is the science of keeping tracks clean ? repeating the same process by keeping on oiling motors over and over again ? until someone takes time out and thinks about it what they are doing, I'm afraid there isn't much science left over., sometimes its just common sense. , to me the whole process sounds like a comedy, one shovels sand out of a hole and the other puts it back in again John Edited by user 10 October 2020 03:04:09(UTC)
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6 users liked this useful post by river6109
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 Joined: 18/10/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,404
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Originally Posted by: parakiet Originally Posted by: Minok
And remember a key aspect of this: the goal is not to have clean rails. It should not matter if the rail is clean, or if wiping it with a cloth or finger shows a black streak of dirt.
The goal is to maintain good conductivity, so use products that maintain conductivity. I'd prefer a grey conductive rail that requires very infrequent to almost no effort all day.
What do you use? You just need to run your trains every day? Just for a few minutes and problem solved. It’s a bit like a real railway. Rusty Rails = disused Railway, I sometimes have a clean if the trains sound goes on a short section of track. But I never have the ball ache of. Cleaning rails and pukos before running anything. Regards Dan |
Marklin and Piko era 4 SNCB , Marklin wagons
Wiking model car Fan
Faller fan including car system
Instagram: marklin1978
Wiking fan
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2 users liked this useful post by danmarklinman
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 Joined: 16/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 301 Location: Grandvaux - Lausanne - Switzerland
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Hi all
I have been experimenting with my wife's nail polish remover, especially on my turntable. Seems to be ok although I am not sure if has any side effects eg effects the rubber tyres.
Tim
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Joined: 29/05/2014(UTC) Posts: 839 Location: DONEGAL, CARNDONAGH
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You will be pulling her tights off next and using them for traction tires
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,594 Location: Spain
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Originally Posted by: Timnomads I have been experimenting with my wife's nail polish remover, especially on my turntable. Seems to be ok although I am not sure if has any side effects eg effects the rubber tyres. That is typically acetone. A big NO-NO in the world of plastics!!! It will dissolve/degrade most kinds of plastic, so better stop using that... |
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 Joined: 30/08/2002(UTC) Posts: 1,288
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My final tracks are set and I plan to go for an extensive testing period. As most areas of the layout haven’t been used for 1-2 years, I decided to go for another round on the net for finding out the latest cleaning options and to ”bump” this exciting thread. There seems to be a neverending discussion whether to use fluid or friction based cleaning. However, on a UK forum I found a link to this ”research” where they use a microscope to find out if a Peco Track Rubber scratches the rails, and the result was interesting: After this, I went for the following cleaning process: (1) Peco Track Rubber very light on top of the rail (2) Vacuum (3) CRC Contact Cleaner (as listed above) using a cloth On the first test of the complete layout Yesterday, my old SBB RAm TEE (Märklin 3071) ran like a charm I never expected looking at my ”sawmill” a few days ago...  |
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3 users liked this useful post by PeFu
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,801 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Originally Posted by: PeFu After this, I went for the following cleaning process:
(1) Peco Track Rubber very light on top of the rail
(2) Vacuum
(3) CRC Contact Cleaner (as listed above) using a cloth
Good advice Pe Fu - that is what I have done for years. Some of the discussion here on this forum has made me hesitant on using the rubber lately, because of possible scratching. But I found that a rubber worked very well and did no visible damage when using them in the past. Over the last two years I have done only your steps 2 & 3, but with one of the non water based formulas. The amount of buildup on track/wheels is about the same and the track rubber removes it more quickly and easily, so I think we have a workable solution. |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
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Joined: 05/07/2020(UTC) Posts: 326 Location: Mississippi, Vancleave
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I have a product called "BOESHIELD" that leaves a conductive non-oily coating on metal surfaces. I don't have a track setup yet that needs cleaning, but I am keeping it in my arsenal of possible cleaning products. BOESHIELD is a cleaning agent used to clean and protect cast iron surfaces, like table saw tops, etc. If anyone out there has this product, they might think about trying it out on track to see if it works. As I said, I will be trying it out once I have a track layout set up.
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Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC)
Posts: 497
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Originally Posted by: Mr. Ron I have a product called "BOESHIELD" that leaves a conductive non-oily coating on metal surfaces. I don't have a track setup yet that needs cleaning, but I am keeping it in my arsenal of possible cleaning products. BOESHIELD is a cleaning agent used to clean and protect cast iron surfaces, like table saw tops, etc. If anyone out there has this product, they might think about trying it out on track to see if it works. As I said, I will be trying it out once I have a track layout set up. If it's any of the products on this page it doesn't appear to be useful for track cleaning: https://boeshield.com/products/
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,594 Location: Spain
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Originally Posted by: PeFu
There seems to be a neverending discussion whether to use fluid or friction based cleaning. However, on a UK forum I found a link to this ”research” where they use a microscope to find out if a Peco Track Rubber scratches the rails, and the result was interesting:
YOUTUBE
On the first test of the complete layout Yesterday, my old SBB RAm TEE (Märklin 3071) ran like a charm I never expected looking at my ”sawmill” a few days ago...
Very interesting article. Thanks for sharing. I'm still skeptical, as these tracks are of another material than Märklins tracks, and his scrubbing seemed rather light. -Even when he applied more of it. I mean; What happens after years of periodical scrubbing? Even my perception of the microscope video is different; I see lots of scratches and lines on the surface. -But as his Hornby and Peco track are already extremely rough on the surface out-of-the-box, a good scrubbing might be beneficial to THAT kind of track-material. |
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Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,763 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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The video was interesting, thanks for sharing Pe Fu.
The methods used illustrate very well that the rubber (with embedded abrasive material) actually polishes the surface of the metal.
This has the effect of removing material (oxide film, dirt) which hinders conductivity.
It would be very interesting if we knew what standard of grit is used in the various track rubbers Märklin, Fleischmann, and Hornby.
Sand and emery paper are quoted in grit sizes.
The larger the number the finer the grit.
So 100 grit paper is very course (used by carpenters), while 1200 grit is very fine.
I use 1200 grit (or finer) to polish plastic when modifying plastic kit parts using files, blades or chisels.
This action leaves the part smooth enough for painting.
As well as using the Märklin rubber, I use the 1200 grit paper on my Märklin C stainless steel track including the centre puko.
In fact on the pukos I find it more useful than the rubber.
You can buy grit paper from the hobby store - up to 2400 grit usually made in Japan .
I understand this as a polishing process.
It is the same as polishing the paint work on a car, using a cutting compound which is full of very fine grit to cut away the dross surface of the paint.
Kimball |
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge. |
3 users liked this useful post by kimballthurlow
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Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,277
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H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
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2 users liked this useful post by Goofy
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Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997
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so what is the downside of small scratches on the rails? |
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 Joined: 08/12/2015(UTC) Posts: 65 Location: Western Cape, South Africa
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Hi nice videos and many worthy plans.
Funny nobody give attention to the center studs.!
They are the real rusting components in the rail assemblies.
Cleaning them also, is crucial for the reliable operation and running of trains on tracks
So I would say, yes use the proven methods of cleaning outer tracks, but what then .????
OK, pukko cleaning is tedious and abrasive job if you use some soaked material wrapped around your finger.
It may mean fitment of a modified cleaning center pickup under a weighted wagon to then do the cleaning on the run.
And then after cleaning to apply a thin layer of oil based electrical contact cleaner. ( Plastic friendly !!!!!!!! type)
THUS PREVENTING PUKKO RUSTING FOR A LONG TIME
Thanks,
HANNES
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1 user liked this useful post by Hannes Porsche
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,890 Location: Michigan, Troy
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The Marklin dudes who host the digital webinar say you don't have to clean the center studs. The slider keeps them clean. The slider collects dirt, and wears thinner with run time.
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Joined: 10/02/2021(UTC) Posts: 3,890 Location: Michigan, Troy
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Originally Posted by: marklinist5999 The Marklin dudes who host the digital webinar say you don't have to clean the center studs. The slider keeps them clean. The slider collects dirt, and wears thinner with run time. Also, an Aussie on youtube despises abrasibve track cleaning erasers. They leave behind grit that gunks up the wheels. Same for sand paper. The Dudes like karosene. Alcohol has some water.
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Joined: 18/06/2005(UTC) Posts: 669 Location: El Sobrante, California
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I also heard that "lighter fluid" was an approved cleaner for motors,etc as well as tracks. This subject will be debated for another hundred years. Keeps the mind active.
Regards, gene
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1 user liked this useful post by grnwtrs
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