Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571
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Hi all, An interesting editorial in the latest MRH magazine regarding solvents to use in track cleaning: https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/** FULL LINK ADDED FOR CONVENIENCE - https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/mrhpub.com/2019-05-may/online/index.html?page=9To recap. They have previously done studies to find out what the grey/black gunk is that accumulate on the rails and eventually will disrupt power. It’s not grease, oil, dust or leftover rubber from traction tires, but the deposits left are mainly metal oxides deposits from micro arcing as one point of the wheel makes contact with one point of the rail. Anyway the editorial then discuss what solvents to use and why and this part I found really interesting as it appears that the majority of us might have been using the wrong solvents when cleaning the rails... They talk about non polar or polar solvents. From the editorial: Apparently, polar solvent molecules get trapped in micropits of the metal surface, leaving an “electron charged” micro-scopic residue. This electron-charged polar residue encourages micro-arcing in the presence of an electrical current, quickly forming new metal oxides on the metal surfaces in electrical contact. But non-polar solvents do the reverse. They actually “protect” the metal surfaces from forming new oxides because they inhibit microarcing. A high polar solvent is water and a medium is isopropyl alcohol. A non-polar solvents is mineral spirits, diesel, whal clipper oil and e.g. WD-40 contact cleaner. And regarding graphite layers they found a very light, invisible, layer can improve conductive while too much will increase micro arcing as graphite itself is slightly polar. This is the first time I hear about this and would be interested in hear users opinion who may have knowledge in this field? If you want to read more download the free issue yourself. By the way it’s a great magazine and for a low annual subscription you can get the premium edition with extra monthly articles. Best Regards Lasse Edited by moderator 02 August 2020 11:44:10(UTC)
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Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives. |
 17 users liked this useful post by Danlake
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amartinezv, dominator, JohnjeanB, dickinsonj, Elsleuth1, Jabez, applor, seatrains, hxmiesa, Chook, xxup, siroljuk, 1borna, Roland, roberts, Bigdaddynz, Jimmy Thompson
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,562 Location: Paris, France
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Hi Lasse Many thanks for this information. I will try. In the past I was using contact cleaner fluid w. not-too-bad results except on the Märklin 7286 turntable where the "3rd rail" is replaced with a Zamak planking w. metal coating. Other sources tell it is capital to keep the rail surface absolutely scratch-free.
Cheers
Jean |
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 3 users liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,801 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Very informative - thanks for posting that Lasse. I have often wondered if anyone knew what these deposits were or where they actually came from, with my personal suspects being oil or degrading traction tires. I have always used 60% isopropyl alcohol which does clean well but now it appears that it might also be setting me up for more problems down the road - or track in this case. I would also be interested in hearing other people's thoughts on this and what they might be using to clean their tracks in light of this information. Diesel fuel or mineral spirits seem like they would just gunk things up even worse, but perhaps that is not really the case. If those were my two best choices I would go with the mineral spirits, since I really hate the smell of diesel. |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
 1 user liked this useful post by dickinsonj
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Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC) Posts: 1,291 Location: Port Moody, BC
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Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB  Hi Lasse Many thanks for this information. I will try. In the past I was using contact cleaner fluid w. not-too-bad results except on the Märklin 7286 turntable where the "3rd rail" is replaced with a Zamak planking w. metal coating. Other sources tell it is capital to keep the rail surface absolutely scratch-free.
Cheers
Jean What do you use on your 7286 "3rd rail"? I have a real issue with the turntable's centre contact no matter how I try to clean it.
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 1 user liked this useful post by PMPeter
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Joined: 23/04/2014(UTC) Posts: 104
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The article ends with this statement: 
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 1 user liked this useful post by Elsleuth1
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Joined: 20/08/2018(UTC) Posts: 157 Location: Geneve, Geneva
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I'm passing the same graphite bar on the center studs as well as on the rails themselves, helps a lot! |
JMRI on RPi & DCC++ / C-track / Marklin, Roco, ESU, Bemo locos / Christmas car collector |
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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A key resource from the article is this table: Source: Joe Fugate, "Keeping your track and wheels clean longer - a look at polar vs non-polar solvents", https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/ , pg. 14, May 2019From this list, the first one that seems good to use in a cleaning car (ie you need to have gravity dispense it, not coming in an aerosol can), is Wahl Clipper Oil and mineral spirits (not sure what Neverstall is and if it comes in a non-aerosol. You would want something that is not highly flammable.Quote:The best solvents for track cleaning are the non-polar ones. The worst ones for track cleaning are the polar solvents! How many of us have used IPA, lacquer thinner, or acetone for track cleaning? Bad, bad! Also notice the “wonder cures” for dirty track are all non-polar! Ah-hah! The other thing I notice is not all electrical contact cleaners are created the same. CRC Contact Cleaner and Protectorant (do their chemists know something here? – sure sounds like it) is CRC’s lowest dielectric constant non-polar product! While CRC 2-26 is often recommended on modeling forums for cleaning, it’s actually semi-polar. It’s far better than IPA or the like, but the CRC Contact Cleaner and Protectorant is better still. Notice, CRC QD Contact Cleaner is actually worse than IPA. From this list you can see kerosene, WD-40 Contact Cleaner, CRC Contact Cleaner and Protectorant, Deoxit D5, Neverstall, and mineral spirits are all excellent solvents to use for cleaning track and wheels. Solvents to avoid include: isopropyl alcohol, MEK, acetone, and lacquer thinner. .... When applying graphite to your track to help keep the rails from microarcing, more graphite is not better! In fact, what I tell people is one quick swipe on the inside railhead is all you need [3]. You don’t want to see it. If you can see the graphite, then you have applied way too much! Just one quick swipe with moderate pressure is plenty. The article on the nature of the black gunk can be found here: https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/3229The executive summary by Joe provided is: "It appears you want to clean your track (and wheels) with a non-polar solvent and then treat the inside railhead with graphite to further reduce your frequency of cleanings. That’s about as good as it gets!" |
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 9 users liked this useful post by Minok
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Joined: 06/07/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,316
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Hello Minok, I use GOO GONE to clean my track. (non polar) Not sure where GOO GONE would be on the list but it's what I use when the tracks really need a cleaning! The procedure that I follow is to first vacuum the layout track with a dusting brush attached to the hose of the vacuum. Then I squirt small amount of GOO GONE onto a tightly compressed piece of paper towel and then wipe over the rails while holding the paper towel firmly on the top of the rails. Once the layout has been cleaned then I wipe it clean with a new fresh piece of paper towel again tightly compressed together. The goal of the compressed paper towel is so that it does not break apart when running it over the rails. Once all is done then I do the last step, I run my LUX vacuum car over the whole layout. Works quite well and leaves a nice orangey fragrance.
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 2 users liked this useful post by michelvr
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Joined: 30/08/2016(UTC) Posts: 636 Location: Brussels
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When I first joined the marklin-users.net site some 3 years ago I recall seeing many references to (Deluxe) Track Magic rail and wheel cleaner. I think it was an Australian product. I haven't seen much reference to it since. But here is a link to another site's thread on track cleaning which mentions it. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/...ing-fluid-which-is-best/Jabez |
I heard that lonesome whistle blow. Hank Williams |
 3 users liked this useful post by Jabez
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,801 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
 2 users liked this useful post by dickinsonj
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Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC) Posts: 1,801 Location: Crozet, Virginia
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Thinking back on this, I once had a dealer tell me not to use isopropyl alcohol because it left a residue which made the problem worse in the future. I discounted this advice and now I finally see what he meant. Searching around on Amazon I found other products which make similar claims and which are recommended by buyers. I am going to try several of these and if one comes out a clear winner I will report back to the thread. Here are some alternatives that I may also try: https://www.amazon.com/B...ner-fl-oz/dp/B01LYUL9A0/https://www.amazon.com/P...nhibitors/dp/B0006O8EKS/I have cleaned wheels that looked like they were starting their own homemade traction tires!  Now it appears that I might have been setting myself up by insisting that isopropyl alcohol was the safest, best way to go. |
Regards,
Jim
I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time. |
 2 users liked this useful post by dickinsonj
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Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,763 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Thanks for all the interesting information and ideas.
I have no idea of the chemical make-up or properties of either Marklin lubricating oil, or Wahl clipper oil. But I use both quite extensively in one way or another (in life generally), and I notice that they have the same consistency (flow ability).
I will use either on my track.
Kimball |
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge. |
 2 users liked this useful post by kimballthurlow
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Joined: 01/06/2016(UTC) Posts: 2,465
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Originally Posted by: kimballthurlow  Thanks for all the interesting information and ideas.
I have no idea of the chemical make-up or properties of either Marklin lubricating oil, or Wahl clipper oil. But I use both quite extensively in one way or another (in life generally), and I notice that they have the same consistency (flow ability).
I will use either on my track.
Kimball Perhaps this gives you an idea for cleaning - including prices, which covers quite a variety. https://www.allaboardexc...ep-your-track-clean.html
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 1 user liked this useful post by TEEWolf
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Joined: 22/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 14,875 Location: On 1965 Märklin Boulevard just around from Roco Square
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Originally Posted by: dickinsonj  Thinking back on this, I once had a dealer tell me not to use isopropyl alcohol because it left a residue which made the problem worse in the future. I discounted this advice and now I finally see what he meant. Searching around on Amazon I found other products which make similar claims and which are recommended by buyers. I am going to try several of these and if one comes out a clear winner I will report back to the thread. Here are some alternatives that I may also try: https://www.amazon.com/B...ner-fl-oz/dp/B01LYUL9A0/https://www.amazon.com/P...nhibitors/dp/B0006O8EKS/I have cleaned wheels that looked like they were starting their own homemade traction tires!  Now it appears that I might have been setting myself up by insisting that isopropyl alcohol was the safest, best way to go. when you look at their website the items aren't cheap, for instance snow making £ 17.00, I made my snow scenery from very fine tile grout for 20kg I've paid A$ 23.00 and I use an Australian product called "Gumption" (1kg) to clean the wheels for under A$ 5.00, cleaning tracks, I haven't done for years, the garage is now dust & the track is oil free but its interesting to know about the scientific findings with a non polar solvent John Edited by user 23 May 2019 05:26:56(UTC)
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,319 Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
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Oddly enough I came across this video on the same subject on YouTube along with a lot of bad ideas told on jest but don’t let your kids see it lest they get bad ideas. |
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 1 user liked this useful post by Minok
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Joined: 30/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 276 Location: Houston, Texas
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This is an old subject , I have been using Wahl clipper oil on my m - track for many years. It is used in small amounts along with mechanical cleaning and frequent operation. I remember seeing an article many years past in the Model Railroader magazine about tests on a visitor operated layout in Tacoma , Washington which showed that automobile transmission fluid gave the best results. Tex
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 3 users liked this useful post by Tex
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Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571
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Previously been using some low odour kerosene product and it did keep tracks clean for much longer (less black gunk on the railhead) than my old method of isopropyl, however it still smell terrible when applying and my train room would have a slight kerosene smell for a couple of days afterwards. So been researching alternative solutions that is available down under and stumbled across a Australian modeller who had high praise for the Australian product called Inox (a bit similar to WD-40). Upon further reading I find lots of references to the product in the slot car community. See e.g. these video (looks pretty amazing). https://m.youtube.com/wa...b_logo&v=NnnSjyXyhrUhttps://m.youtube.com/wa...154&feature=emb_logoAnyway I am going to try this product. Anyone had experience with it? Again, this is the idea about applying a film on the rail head that prevents arching. Inox itself is non-conductive. Best Regards Lasse |
Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives. |
 2 users liked this useful post by Danlake
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Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC) Posts: 9,593 Location: Australia
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I have used Track Magic on my M-track layout for many years and it works great.. But the key is to clean the wheels when you clean the track.. Otherwise the whole exercise is pointless.. |
Adrian Australia flag by abFlags.com |
 3 users liked this useful post by xxup
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Joined: 04/12/2013(UTC) Posts: 2,261 Location: Hobart, Australia
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Originally Posted by: Danlake  Previously been using some low odour kerosene product and it did keep tracks clean for much longer (less black gunk on the railhead) than my old method of isopropyl, however it still smell terrible when applying and my train room would have a slight kerosene smell for a couple of days afterwards. So been researching alternative solutions that is available down under and stumbled across a Australian modeller who had high praise for the Australian product called Inox (a bit similar to WD-40). Upon further reading I find lots of references to the product in the slot car community. See e.g. these video (looks pretty amazing). https://m.youtube.com/wa...b_logo&v=NnnSjyXyhrUhttps://m.youtube.com/wa...154&feature=emb_logoAnyway I am going to try this product. Anyone had experience with it? Again, this is the idea about applying a film on the rail head that prevents arching. Inox itself is non-conductive. Best Regards Lasse Originally Posted by: Danlake  ... the Australian product called Inox (a bit similar to WD-40) ... Anyone had experience with it? Hello Lasse, Whilst I tend to use my Märklin simple track cleaning unit dry :  , when cleaning other gunk from the track I either use a cotton cloth dipped in elbow grease or a cotton cloth sprayed with this electrical contact cleaner I get from Jaycar:  (but I think any such electrical contact cleaner will do; I suspect they are all on the "good" side of this dielectric constant scale (from a post previously by Minok on this fine forum, acknowledged with thanks):  (noting your Kerosene is "best") And to answer your question, I have had a long previous experience with "Inox" - not on my layout but on my yacht for about 30 years. See also my April post : https://www.marklin-user...arlin-C-track#post613440The marine environment is very harsh on electrical contacts (correct Per ?) and long ago a marine electrician put me onto this product (which he called "a tool kit in a can") - it certainly gave longevity to electrical contacts that would otherwise deteriorate in the yachting environment. I have not used it on my layout. Maybe I should spray electrical contact cleaner on the pads of my Märklin track-cleaning unit ? But, as Adrian just said, the other side of the equation is to also clean the wheels, otherwise they just lay any gunk back down. Regards, PJ
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 4 users liked this useful post by PJMärklin
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Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,528 Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
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Originally Posted by: PJMärklin  The marine environment is very harsh on electrical contacts (correct Per ?) Yes Per. |
If you can dream it, you can do it! I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide. In case this is not legally possible: I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.  |
 1 user liked this useful post by Purellum
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,593 Location: Spain
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Lately, I never clean my tracks. They dont seem to get dirty at all. -Even if the layout hasnt been used for months.
However, I do have "SOME" amount of black gunk build up on the wheels. Some vehicles seems more prone to it, than others. Both locos and waggons.
I use a little WD-40 to disolve it, as it otherwise takes a long time to scrape off. (with a wooden or plastic stick!)
I always supposed the gunk to consit of; oil, dust and traction-tires. (Actually the gunk is so black and thick that it LOOKS like the traction-tires themselves...) The gunk seems to be conductive, as the automatic block-system continues to work, even with locos who´s wheels are completly covered in gunk, so I wonder what it actually consist of¿? |
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 1 user liked this useful post by hxmiesa
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Joined: 07/08/2015(UTC) Posts: 245 Location: Wilshire
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Hi Everyone, I wondered how long this subject would be raised again.
Personally I use various methods, Marklin track cleaning cars, dry or with isopropyl on them, power off!
Or WD-40 contact cleaner on a piece of felt and a dose of elbow grease.
What I have found by covering the layout with the ground cover material used in the garden supported by a dowel and wooden supports I don’t get much dust on the layout and that reduces the muck on the track.
I hope that helps. Harry
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 1 user liked this useful post by Harryv40
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Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,768 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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Yes I find the rails being stainless steel never corrode or anything and only need rare cleaning due to tire marks/deposits which I use isopropyl to clean.
The studs are always the problem for bad running, however since controlling humidity to ~45% I hardly ever need to clean those either. If they need it I use the Roco track cleaner 'rubber'. |
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany |
 1 user liked this useful post by applor
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Joined: 18/03/2007(UTC) Posts: 6,763 Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Originally Posted by: PJMärklin  .....  (noting your Kerosene is "best") ....... But, as Adrian just said, the other side of the equation is to also clean the wheels, otherwise they just lay any gunk back down. Regards, PJ And note too that Graphite has an "unsure" rating as good as kerosene. I have been using a carpenters pencil (because the graphite is thicker) on my centre studs and it seems to be solving any problems I have. Kimball |
HO Scale - Märklin (ep II-III and VI, C Track, digital) - 2 rail HO (Queensland Australia, UK, USA) - 3 rail OO (English Hornby Dublo) - old clockwork O gauge - Live Steam 90mm (3.1/2 inch) gauge. |
 3 users liked this useful post by kimballthurlow
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Joined: 18/10/2012(UTC) Posts: 1,404
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Just run your trains as regularly as possible. Once a day will stop the need for any reel track cleaning👍 |
Marklin and Piko era 4 SNCB , Marklin wagons Wiking model car Fan Faller fan including car system Instagram: marklin1978 Wiking fan
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 5 users liked this useful post by danmarklinman
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Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571
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Originally Posted by: Danlake  Previously been using some low odour kerosene product and it did keep tracks clean for much longer (less black gunk on the railhead) than my old method of isopropyl, however it still smell terrible when applying and my train room would have a slight kerosene smell for a couple of days afterwards. So been researching alternative solutions that is available down under and stumbled across a Australian modeller who had high praise for the Australian product called Inox (a bit similar to WD-40). Upon further reading I find lots of references to the product in the slot car community. See e.g. these video (looks pretty amazing). https://m.youtube.com/wa...b_logo&v=NnnSjyXyhrUhttps://m.youtube.com/wa...154&feature=emb_logoAnyway I am going to try this product. Anyone had experience with it? Again, this is the idea about applying a film on the rail head that prevents arching. Inox itself is non-conductive. Best Regards Lasse So just an update to below post and a bit of WARNING: I purchased a small 300ml non pressurised bottle and decided to clean a part of my layout with this product. It has a quite pleasant, sweet smell with a consistency of a light olive oil. I gave a cotton rag a slight mist from a distance and then rubbed a track section making sure not to overly oil the rail. After cleaning a part of the layout I waited a couple of days to test the effect. I had a heavy DSB MY loco doing the pull with a couple of passenger wagons. Initially all looked good but after a couple of rounds it started struggling on the inclines (approx 3%). Got worse and worse so I stopped the experiment. I then took a brand new white cotton rag and wiped the rail on the incline, thinking I must have over oiled this section. To my horror one swipe with rag on top of the rail produced a thick black paint substance... Iam not talking about the usual grey, darkish gunk but this looked like bright black paint... and not only on the incline. The whole section I had just spent a couple of hours to clean with Inox was completely covered in a black substances. I can only think of 2 reasons: 1. The Inox had started dissolving the rubber tires and/or 2. It had worked it’s way around all the wheels and cleaned those. Regardless I would not recommend using this product as it very likely will give you issues with traction and may even potential damage the rubber tires. I am now using a 50/50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol with CRC plastic safe contact cleaner. Best Regards Lasse |
Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives. |
 3 users liked this useful post by Danlake
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,593 Location: Spain
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Originally Posted by: Danlake  After cleaning a part of the layout I waited a couple of days to test the effect. I had a heavy DSB MY loco doing the pull with a couple of passenger wagons. Initially all looked good but after a couple of rounds it started struggling on the inclines (approx 3%). Got worse and worse so I stopped the experiment.
I then took a brand new white cotton rag and wiped the rail on the incline, thinking I must have over oiled this section. To my horror one swipe with rag on top of the rail produced a thick black paint substance... Iam not talking about the usual grey, darkish gunk but this looked like bright black paint... and not only on the incline. The whole section I had just spent a couple of hours to clean with Inox was completely covered in a black substances. I can only think of 2 reasons:
1. The Inox had started dissolving the rubber tires and/or 2. It had worked it’s way around all the wheels and cleaned those. For those 2 reasons to happen, your loko would either have its traction tyres severely damaged by now, and/or the wheels of your rolling stock was already very dirty?! Is either the case? Maybe you need to repeat the test with more controlled conditions; New clean tracks and new clean rolling stock. THEN see if a black film is formed on the track. |
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 2 users liked this useful post by hxmiesa
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Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 9,277
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Originally Posted by: hxmiesa  Lately, I never clean my tracks. They dont seem to get dirty at all. -Even if the layout hasnt been used for months.
Serious!?? Your track oxid while you drive with the digital power which means constant power on the track. This make dirt faster on the track instead of the analog power. |
H0 DCC = Digital Command Control
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,593 Location: Spain
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Originally Posted by: Goofy  Serious!?? Your track oxid while you drive with the digital power which means constant power on the track. This make dirt faster on the track instead of the analog power. I'm not sure if I even understand what you are saying, but I can say that I have practically 0 (zero) oxidation in my dry (<60%) RR room. |
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Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 9,277
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Originally Posted by: hxmiesa  I'm not sure if I even understand what you are saying, but I can say that I have practically 0 (zero) oxidation in my dry (<60%) RR room.
That is impossible! I have seen Märklin layout oxid a lot on the tracks. Even two rail oxid. |
H0 DCC = Digital Command Control
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Joined: 17/04/2003(UTC) Posts: 997 Location: Netherlands
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Hi, Since I have read this post, I have been using regular WD-40. The issue now is that the driving wheels slip, even on level sections... Is there any post treatment that would cure this? Gregor
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Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571
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Hi Gregor,
Just use some isopropyl alcohol or similar to get rid of any oil residues.
Best Regards Lasse |
Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives. |
 1 user liked this useful post by Danlake
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Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571
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Originally Posted by: hxmiesa  Originally Posted by: Danlake  After cleaning a part of the layout I waited a couple of days to test the effect. I had a heavy DSB MY loco doing the pull with a couple of passenger wagons. Initially all looked good but after a couple of rounds it started struggling on the inclines (approx 3%). Got worse and worse so I stopped the experiment.
I then took a brand new white cotton rag and wiped the rail on the incline, thinking I must have over oiled this section. To my horror one swipe with rag on top of the rail produced a thick black paint substance... Iam not talking about the usual grey, darkish gunk but this looked like bright black paint... and not only on the incline. The whole section I had just spent a couple of hours to clean with Inox was completely covered in a black substances. I can only think of 2 reasons:
1. The Inox had started dissolving the rubber tires and/or 2. It had worked it’s way around all the wheels and cleaned those. For those 2 reasons to happen, your loko would either have its traction tyres severely damaged by now, and/or the wheels of your rolling stock was already very dirty?! Is either the case? Maybe you need to repeat the test with more controlled conditions; New clean tracks and new clean rolling stock. THEN see if a black film is formed on the track. Nope the wheels were not unusually dirty. I did notice the rubber tires seemed to have gotten thinner on the loco I test drove with, but as you say it will require some proper experiment to find the causes. In the meantime you will just have to take my word for it to be carefull if using Inox and try on a small piece of track first Update: I guess I should have read the print from Inox website: Caution: INOX MX3 may effect some rubber products with continual long term use. Best Regards Lasse |
Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives. |
 7 users liked this useful post by Danlake
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Joined: 12/01/2016(UTC) Posts: 165 Location: Michigan, Ann Arbor
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Originally Posted by: Danlake  Hi Gregor,
Just use some isopropyl alcohol or similar to get rid of any oil residues.
Best Regards Lasse Doesn't this just defeat the whole purpose of using a non-polar track cleaner? Phil S. |
Phil S. |
 1 user liked this useful post by phils2um
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Joined: 03/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 1,571
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Yes, but most model railroaders have this one hand and it basically just brings the track back to square one and solves the immediate issues of wheel slippage. Afterwards he can then apply a non-polar solvent. I don’t think anyone claims that polar solvents damaged the rail it’s merely a discussion about what product will keep you running longest in between cleaning the tracks Best Regards Lasse |
Digital 11m2 layout / C (M&K) tracks / Era IV / CS3 60226 / Train Controller Gold 9 with 4D sound. Mainly Danish and German Locomotives. |
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Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 497 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Originally Posted by: phils2um  Doesn't this just defeat the whole purpose of using a non-polar track cleaner?
Phil S.
That table and the whole concept/idea behind it is worthless. And it can even be detrimental to our hobby.
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand
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Originally Posted by: Copenhagen  That table and the whole concept/idea behind it is worthless. And it can even be detrimental to our hobby. Your proof of that is....?? No point making a statement with nothing to back it up, especially in a thread called 'Science of track cleaning'! Please do not make glib statements, without adding evidence to back it up. If you have evidence to the contrary, great, if not....... I'm assuming you actually read the MRH article and the link in the article... I would almost think you were deliberately trying to be contentious.
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 1 user liked this useful post by Bigdaddynz
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Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,453 Location: Scotland
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I just use a Roco track rubber and run trains on a regular basis. Done it for more years than I can remember and never have any problem. Also clean the wheels of locos and coaches again on a regular basis. Never used any types of liquid cleaners. I also inspect and clean if required turnout motors. |
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer. |
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand
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Originally Posted by: David Dewar  I just use a Roco track rubber.... Originally Posted by: Bigdaddynz  Originally Posted by: guitartoys  ...came across these, which are abrasive style erasers, for cleaning guitar frets, which have a specific grit to them. Bad idea! I've posted this before, but here's why you shouldn't use track rubbers or isopropyl alcohol Something I posted in another thread which you might not have seen! - Although he does promote the use of Inox, which Lasse notes above may cause deterioration of rubber tyres, not so good for Marklin locos. I did buy a can of Inox aerosol a while ago, so maybe might try soaking a rubber tyre in it for a while. It does have the warning on the Inox can that Lasse refers to.
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Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 497 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Originally Posted by: Bigdaddynz  Originally Posted by: Copenhagen  That table and the whole concept/idea behind it is worthless. And it can even be detrimental to our hobby. Your proof of that is....?? No point making a statement with nothing to back it up, especially in a thread called 'Science of track cleaning'! Please do not make glib statements, without adding evidence to back it up. If you have evidence to the contrary, great, if not....... I'm assuming you actually read the MRH article and the link in the article... I would almost think you were deliberately trying to be contentious. Because the article is not scientific. It does contain scientific concepts but there is no in-depth scientific testing, it is just some claims based on assumptions. Like 'graphite is good but too much is bad'... what amount is good. Two micrograms? Or four? What is too much? Hundred grams is probably too much because it'll cause shorts. But how do you measure the correct amount. And then the ting about solvents... solvents evaporate leaving nothing or almost nothing on the metal surface, there is no testing of what (if anything) is left on the surface and if there is anything left it is not tested how it works... it's all assumptions. And water!? It evaporates completely or is dried off by the cloth you're using... and WD-40? WD-40 is a mixture of many things, propellants, solvents and oils. So what is left on the track when you rub it over with a piece of cloth drenched in WD-40? If you rub hard enough only an ultra-thin film of oil or something is left and how is that tested and compared to other things on the list?
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Joined: 10/02/2006(UTC) Posts: 3,997
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scientifically speaking, model trains do not exist. Nobody has ever published a peer reviewed paper to determine that they exist. I need some funding to get that sorted out. |
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 10 users liked this useful post by DaleSchultz
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Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 9,277
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I use electronic clean spray PRF 6-68 to clean my tracks and it really works! By the way...WD-40 are cutting fluid to drill stainless steel with or to thread holes. |
H0 DCC = Digital Command Control
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Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 497 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Originally Posted by: Goofy  By the way...WD-40 are cutting fluid to drill stainless steel with or to thread holes. It's not a cutting fluid. But in a small workshop/garage almost anything can (and will) be used.
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Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 9,277
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Originally Posted by: Copenhagen  Originally Posted by: Goofy  By the way...WD-40 are cutting fluid to drill stainless steel with or to thread holes. It's not a cutting fluid. But in a small workshop/garage almost anything can (and will) be used. It is cutting fluid! We use it when i bore drill on the hard steel. |
H0 DCC = Digital Command Control
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Joined: 08/11/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,528 Location: Mullerup, 4200 Slagelse
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If you can dream it, you can do it! I, the copyright holder of this work, hereby release it into the public domain. This applies worldwide. In case this is not legally possible: I grant anyone the right to use this work for any purpose, without any conditions, unless such conditions are required by law.  |
 1 user liked this useful post by Purellum
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Joined: 29/01/2009(UTC) Posts: 301 Location: Sheffield,
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Please stick to the topic, no point in arguing with Goofy about what WD40 is or isn’t. Is WD40 any good at track cleaning? I suspect the regular WD40 would be too oily but the switch cleaner version is most likely excellent at cleaning track. |
Must build something |
 1 user liked this useful post by scraigen
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand
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Originally Posted by: Copenhagen  ......but there is no in-depth scientific testing, it is just some claims based on assumptions. The report quotes someone who had the gunk off some rails submitted for analysis by a lab. The report also reports discussions with a Chemist who also understands electrical contact cleaning, who you would think knows what he's talking about. Maybe it isn't a full in depth lab testing of all products, but the comments seem to have some scientific basis, and are probably also based on quite a bit of experience. If you are going to demand scientific testing for everything then you have just invalidated about 99% of all comments / threads on this forum which are largely based on experience mixed with some opinions.
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 4 users liked this useful post by Bigdaddynz
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Joined: 23/04/2019(UTC) Posts: 497 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Most of the threads here are (thankfully) about practical matters that doesn't involve scientific testing or scientific debate and some threads are about opinions and personal taste.
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Joined: 21/05/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,768 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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As I've stated and Henrik has supported, the most important thing for a clean (functioning) track is low humidity. I've tried graphite on the studs and Kerosene on the rails, neither really improved the situation. Installed a de-humidifier set to 45% and problem solved. I spot clean a few pukos maybe once every month or two and sometimes I see rubber tyre marks on the rails which I clean off with isopropyl.
So in short, the best way to clean the track is to not have to clean it at all! |
modelling era IIIa (1951-1955) Germany |
 5 users liked this useful post by applor
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Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,593 Location: Spain
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Originally Posted by: applor  As I've stated and Henrik has supported, the most important thing for a clean (functioning) track is low humidity. I've tried graphite on the studs and Kerosene on the rails, neither really improved the situation. Installed a de-humidifier set to 45% and problem solved. I spot clean a few pukos maybe once every month or two and sometimes I see rubber tyre marks on the rails which I clean off with isopropyl. So in short, the best way to clean the track is to not have to clean it at all! -But I have a question for you; How can you live with only 45% of humidity?? I tried, and below 55% I get more and more static electricity, which is somewhat uncomfortable to live with. (-and very dangerous to fine electronics, like decoders) My floor is an IKEA lamina "wooden" floor, with all its plastic isolation on top of the concrete cellar floor. Maybe I should ground my layout, bypassing the IKEA floor and its isolations¿? |
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