Joined: 20/06/2020(UTC) Posts: 4 Location: Fryslan, Drachten
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Hello, i'm a newbie on the train hobby but i got a question about Märklin 24624. Many times when i switch my CS3+ this happens and they dont switch good. For example, The second movie goes wrong a few times: after 5 seconds and after 18 seconds, the switch tongues do not or hardly change, and the sound it makes, is it normal ? Sometimes it just does not turn. Video1 Video2 Video3 Video4 Underside, Did i do something wrong ? They are powered by Viessmann 5200 Lighting transformer 16 V, 52 VA Technical data: - Input Voltage: 230v - Output Voltage: 10 and 16v AC - Maximum Power: 52 VA Should i return them ? (C track) Thanks :)
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 1 user liked this useful post by Jeroen
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Joined: 04/02/2011(UTC) Posts: 3,580 Location: Paris, France
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Hi Jeroen
Welcome to the forum. I don't think you did something wrong (unless with a wire in a moving part-see below). If the 24624 is still under warranty you should ask for a replacement.
What is not clear to me: are you using a control box such as the 72710 or a decoder?
If it is not anymore under warranty then opening and fixing the problem is a matter of how skilled you are with tiny and complex mechanisms.
Basically the cause can be: - one wire (decoder, lighted signal, solenoid) in the way of a moving part (the point). This is the most frequent cause of problems. - one or more of the points are not moving freely thus making it more difficult for the motor. You can try to clean / lubricate the point axles from the outside (w/o opening anything). Usually not applicable to new units. - one or both of the steel rods inside (that drive the points) are bent upwards or downwards thus causing more friction: to do something you need to open delicately the point. - the use of an early model of the 74490 motor (since replaced with the 74491- more powerful with contact a spike protection and 2 micro switches). Most probably not your case
If you decide to open the unit, carefully unlatch every little plastic latch that locks the cover in place. If you are not familiar dealing with tiny mechanism I don't recommend it.
As soon as you open: make sure you take a picture on how to put back all the parts. Caution there is a coiled spring. Don't lose it.
Once open, among all the parts you will see 2 composite parts (plastic with long steel bars) Each extremity enters in a square hole to drive.These bars should only touch the side of the square hole but not the top nor the bottom. If they do, then friction cause the unit to malfunction. I dont have a picture of the inside of a 24620 /24624 to explain better Sorry Cheers Jean
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 3 users liked this useful post by JohnjeanB
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Joined: 20/06/2020(UTC) Posts: 4 Location: Fryslan, Drachten
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Originally Posted by: JohnjeanB  Hi Jeroen
Welcome to the forum. I don't think you did something wrong (unless with a wire in a moving part-see below). If the 24624 is still under warranty you should ask for a replacement.
What is not clear to me: are you using a control box such as the 72710 or a decoder?
If it is not anymore under warranty then opening and fixing the problem is a matter of how skilled you are with tiny and complex mechanisms.
Basically the cause can be: - one wire (decoder, lighted signal, solenoid) in the way of a moving part (the point). This is the most frequent cause of problems. - one or more of the points are not moving freely thus making it more difficult for the motor. You can try to clean / lubricate the point axles from the outside (w/o opening anything). Usually not applicable to new units. - one or both of the steel rods inside (that drive the points) are bent upwards or downwards thus causing more friction: to do something you need to open delicately the point. - the use of an early model of the 74490 motor (since replaced with the 74491- more powerful with contact a spike protection and 2 micro switches). Most probably not your case
If you decide to open the unit, carefully unlatch every little plastic latch that locks the cover in place. If you are not familiar dealing with tiny mechanism I don't recommend it.
As soon as you open: make sure you take a picture on how to put back all the parts. Caution there is a coiled spring. Don't lose it.
Once open, among all the parts you will see 2 composite parts (plastic with long steel bars) Each extremity enters in a square hole to drive.These bars should only touch the side of the square hole but not the top nor the bottom. If they do, then friction cause the unit to malfunction. I dont have a picture of the inside of a 24620 /24624 to explain better Sorry Cheers Jean
Thanks for the welcome and reply, all of them are brand new. I just bought the whole track, sometimes they do this and sometime they don't. I'm using the decoder named Rosoft WDD 8 (4+4 switches on the device )  Numbers 1 2 and 3 do this the most. But nr 1 gives the most problems, also my train is losing power on that section. (i powered the whole track with power from the 60041 and soldered them every 30 - 40 cm (12 inches) under the track. )  (yes i still have to do the cable management ;) ) So returning them is the best thing to do ?
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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Couple of observations/suggestions in addition to Jean's good advice
The telling fact in your diagnostics is that **all** of the switches present some sort of trouble. What's the probability that all 4 switches are bad from the get go?
I would rather look into the set up first before accusing the switches.
Here goes:
The longer the wires, the higher the voltage drop when you switch your 24624, so before engaging in any further mechanical (?) trouble shooting, I'd work at the "wire management" first . I bet the most troublesome of all is likely to be the one with the longest wires.
Next , I don't know that decoder you are using, never heard of it , so I have no clue how it's wired into the system. (I suspect it's probably a cheap knock off , so does it have for example an AC input so that the power to the coils of the switches is not derived from the digital output?)
Then I think you can adjust the switching pulse length on the CS 3. I would try to lengthen ita bit and see what goes on.
Good luck...
Cheers
Jacques
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Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
 2 users liked this useful post by jvuye
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Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC) Posts: 8,509 Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
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In addition to what Jaques has said, check the track laying itself. If you have screwed the track down make sure you haven't tightened the screws such that the track pieces are being distorted, as this can create problems with the moving parts in the points not sliding in the confined space they have. The tolerances are quite tight between moving freely and jamming as they move.
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 3 users liked this useful post by kiwiAlan
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Joined: 20/06/2020(UTC) Posts: 4 Location: Fryslan, Drachten
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Thanks for the reply's i'm going to do some cable management tomorrow will report back.
And thanks for helping me!
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Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,464 Location: Scotland
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Try the switches in a single branch turnout with a Marklin decoder. That will confirm if and or all the switches are at fault. |
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer. |
 1 user liked this useful post by David Dewar
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Joined: 30/08/2002(UTC) Posts: 1,289
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I had similar problems, which were solved using extra power (20 V DC). Have a look at this post.  |
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 2 users liked this useful post by PeFu
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Joined: 20/06/2020(UTC) Posts: 4 Location: Fryslan, Drachten
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I have shortened the cables to my track and the powerline for the decoders, that would give me the same result, however, i tried changing the motor thing under my 24624 and replaced it from one of my normal turns. That works allot better, here 2 video's (with the redone wiring) And with the redone wiring and a other motor under the 24624 (oh and the normal turn where i replaced it to, does not do the choppy things that it would do in the 24624. Originally Posted by: PeFu  I had similar problems, which were solved using extra power (20 V DC). Have a look at this post.  I did not know i could exceed 16volts for the turns? Maybe that would even be better.
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