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Offline nhoj  
#1 Posted : 04 November 2019 22:33:06(UTC)
nhoj

United States   
Joined: 22/10/2019(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Texas, Lewisville
I bought a really cheap beat up 3080 and finished the repairs, I put in new Head/Tail Lights contacts along with new diffusers. I replaced the missing wheel skirts /covers, and need to replace the horribly bent handrails. The puffers need to be removed to fit the handrails, and I've
already ruined one trying to pull it out. It was not rusted or anything but I never got it out. I was just wondering if any of y'all have a better way to do this. I thought freezing by holding a ice cube against the puffer for 5 minutes but that didn't help. I'm an old newbie, and would appreciate the help. Crying

Edited by user 19 November 2019 01:28:12(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Offline jerdenberg  
#2 Posted : 05 November 2019 10:10:19(UTC)
jerdenberg

Netherlands   
Joined: 10/01/2005(UTC)
Posts: 965
Location: Den Helder, Noord-Holland
From the exploded view I'd think it should be possible to push the puffer out from the inside (I did that with a broken puffer of my 3034).

Jeroen
Figomima division, UP; mostly figment of my imagination yet.
Offline nhoj  
#3 Posted : 05 November 2019 14:56:30(UTC)
nhoj

United States   
Joined: 22/10/2019(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Texas, Lewisville
Thanks for the reply jerdenberg. Unfortunately, the frame casting is solid, no hole to push through. I've just about given up. I've tried some serious pulling on the puffer that I ruined... not even a little movement. I might saw off the ruined puffer flush with the frame and try to drill it out. Hopefully someone else out there knows how to do it. I'll wait as drilling is a last resort and more work than I wanted to do. Thanks again jerdenberg.
Offline RayF  
#4 Posted : 05 November 2019 16:14:18(UTC)
RayF

Gibraltar   
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 15,695
Location: Gibraltar, Europe
On a similar loco I removed the buffers by gripping the shaft with a pair of fine pilers and twisting at the same time as I pulled out. At the time I thought it might be screwed in but it turned out to only be a very tight push fit. Nevertheless this action worked anyway and the buffers all emerged intact.

When I pushed them back in at the end of the job I did find they were no longer a tight fit, so I put a spot of glue in the hole to keep the buffers in place.

Hope this helps!
Ray
Mostly Marklin.Selection of different eras and European railways
Small C track layout, control by MS2, 100+ trains but run 4-5 at a time.
Offline nhoj  
#5 Posted : 05 November 2019 16:49:14(UTC)
nhoj

United States   
Joined: 22/10/2019(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Texas, Lewisville
Yeah RayF, I've tried that, with no luck. I have a pair of vise lock pliers that had a good grip on the shaft. I twisted and pulled for all I'm worth but not even a little movement. I even used a fairly large flathead screw driver to pry the vise grips outward as it held tight to the shaft.... still no luck. Its like its part of the frame or welded in. I'm sure its not though. Thanks, I'm still at it. I'm even inclined to get the handrails into position and super glue them in place. I will still have to replace the one puffer I buggered up.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by nhoj
Offline jerdenberg  
#6 Posted : 06 November 2019 17:24:07(UTC)
jerdenberg

Netherlands   
Joined: 10/01/2005(UTC)
Posts: 965
Location: Den Helder, Noord-Holland
Indeed, the fact that replacement buffers can be ordered shows they should be removable. Would something like ballistol possibly help?

Jeroen
Figomima division, UP; mostly figment of my imagination yet.
Offline nhoj  
#7 Posted : 06 November 2019 18:00:29(UTC)
nhoj

United States   
Joined: 22/10/2019(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Texas, Lewisville
Thanks for the reply Jeroen, Yes I've used penetrating oil. It's pretty powerful stuff used here in the US to free up rusted or seized threads of bolts, nuts ect.
I allowed it to penetrate for more than an hour, but still could not get out the puffer. I am going to try again, and leave it overnight. It may be my only option
at this point. I have other 3078's and will pick the one with most problems (motor and reversing unit) and see if indeed it is possible to remove a puffer.
Still at it. Thanks again. john
Offline nhoj  
#8 Posted : 19 November 2019 00:47:07(UTC)
nhoj

United States   
Joined: 22/10/2019(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Texas, Lewisville
Sorry for the belated update on this post. I finally got the puffer out. I allowed penetrating oil to soak for a day, and griped the shaft of the puffer with small tipped vice grips.
I pulled for all I'm worth but still the puffer would not come out. I thought to heck with this and I gripped it and rotated the puffer shaft, and it obviously stripped the
puffer's mechanism (ridges / valleys) and was then able to pull it straight out. Ok, so you end up with a puffer too small to hold itself in the hole, so I will have to super glue
a new puffer in the wallowed out hole. I then thought that I still need a better way to do this, and finally found that by holding a pair if diagonal cutting pliers upside down
I could use the frame as a fulcrum to pry the puffer out slightly then push the pliers in a little more and give it another pry. (start at the tip of the pliers then move the thicker part of pliers closer to the puffer little by little) Yeah, It works. I removed the other 3 puffers without damaging them. Mind you, you are not using the Diagonal Pliers as a cutter just simply closing
the jaws just enough to dig in just under the head of the puffer and pry. Hope y'all understand the stuff I'm saying. I had fun nonetheless. The prying didn't even damage the paint
on the frame which is used as a fulcrum. Thanks a bunch to all that replied. john

Edited by user 22 November 2019 15:04:31(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

thanks 2 users liked this useful post by nhoj
Offline nhoj  
#9 Posted : 19 November 2019 01:04:11(UTC)
nhoj

United States   
Joined: 22/10/2019(UTC)
Posts: 7
Location: Texas, Lewisville
Oh yeah, I didn't tell y'all how I inserted the new puffer in to hold the handrails. With the puffer and the hole of the handrail ( as a washer) I lightly twisted the puffer to find the grooves in the hole and made sure it was perfectly in the hole straight and pressed hard with my thumb to start it. Then holding the locomotive firmly in my hand, I then struck the head of the puffer a few times with a hammer (regular hammer) to fully seat it in the hole and tighten the handrail against the frame and base of the puffer. Be careful to not hit the hook coupler. I will post a picture of the finished 3080 (yellow) Locomotive with lights, handrails, and black wheel skirts / covers. Looks great. Runs great. The only drawback is the cost of the parts.
The wheel skirts about $20 w shipping, the handrails $10, light contacts $10, puffers 4 for about $10. Makes for an expensive upgrade. I wish I had friends in Germany so I could get parts cheaper. Still, its a lot of fun messing around. I re-did all the soldering, and wiring. There are some really
bad solderers out there I guess. I'm and electronics tech and been soldering most my life.
thanks 2 users liked this useful post by nhoj
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