I would use Cyanoacrylic glue (aka "superglue") after pinching the rail back in place and pressing it down.
There's nothing to loose here.
Good luck
Jacques

Yes, but it will also glue you to the rail if you get it on your fingers.

It takes a few minutes for the webmasters magic script to resize the pictures to the post. Typically if you look at the post about 5 minutes or so after sending it than the pictures are there.

I have never seen a C track point do that. As others have said you will need to use a couple of pairs of pliers to gently add some more curve into that rail so it doesn't spring out of position once glued down.

But as to what glue to use, I'm not sure. I would try using a Peco track nail as suggested, as it looks like the plastic clips on the fish plates have broken. If you could push some track nails in there that will help stop the rail from wandering.

JB Weld is what I use on all of my brittle 1990s C track. However, as previously indicated it seems to hold for about 3 - 4 months and then just breaks off in an epoxy chunk. It just does not bond permanently.

Now perhaps with the new formula C track plastic the epoxy does bond. However, that brings up the question of what is the date code on the back of the switch involved? If it is the late 1990s to early 2000s version with the brittle plastic you will be fighting an uphill battle to repair this. I have had to throw more than one switch into the garbage because of this problem.

Peter

Totally understood, but that is one of the key problems with the brittle C track. Any attempt at drilling, even with a pin vise, just shatters the track around the hole being drilled. The same applies with trying to mount a switch machine. The posts for fixing the screws into just shatter when either trying to insert the screw or trying to enlarge the opening with a drill to prevent the screw shatter.

That's why I ask what the date code for his switch is, because if it is within the brittle C track date range, drilling a hole to accept a track spike will just make matters worse.

Peter

Drill small holes in the side of the track, close to the "heartpiece" of the switch.
Drill them, both in the piece of rail that is out of its seat, and the other beside it, which is correctly seated.
You need to drill 2 small hoels in each rail, as close to the "heartpìece" as possible.

Then, thread a fine strong wire through the 4 holes, and twist the ends together to form a loop. Tighten the loop by keep twisting the wire, until the foce of the loop pulls the loose piece of track into allignment of the "heartpiece".
The holes has to be very small, maybe 0,5mm. Maybe you can use a Dremel. The thread has to be even smaller. -And probably has to be metallic in order to stand the force applied.
I hope I explained myself well enough, although a simple drawing would explain it much better. lol

It is the same. You know more than I do.
It is 04..2000. I will try to support it with a metal pin head.
As I do it I will make plenty of pictures and post them for you. In a meantime we can stop the discussion.
Thanks guys.

Or you can get m-track...

I agree, replace the turnout. There is no long time working solution if it is that old.