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Offline Hics  
#1 Posted : 13 February 2019 13:03:16(UTC)
Hics

United Kingdom   
Joined: 15/02/2018(UTC)
Posts: 162
Location: England, St Ives
Hi.
Is there a way of fixing this? Kind of glue maybe?
Point.jpg
Point 2.jpg

Why it is not showing a pictures?
Offline rbw993  
#2 Posted : 13 February 2019 13:26:26(UTC)
rbw993

United States   
Joined: 19/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 954
Gentle bending with two pliers and super glue should do it.
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Offline jvuye  
#3 Posted : 13 February 2019 13:27:26(UTC)
jvuye

Belgium   
Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2,881
Location: South Western France
Originally Posted by: Hics Go to Quoted Post
Hi.
Is there a way of fixing this? Kind of glue maybe?
...

Why it is not showing a pictures?


I would use Cyanoacrylic glue (aka "superglue") after pinching the rail back in place and pressing it down.
There's nothing to loose here.
Good luck
Jacques

Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn
Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success!
Offline Hics  
#4 Posted : 13 February 2019 13:38:18(UTC)
Hics

United Kingdom   
Joined: 15/02/2018(UTC)
Posts: 162
Location: England, St Ives
Will super glue hold a metal?
Offline rbw993  
#5 Posted : 13 February 2019 15:05:48(UTC)
rbw993

United States   
Joined: 19/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 954
Yes, but it will also glue you to the rail if you get it on your fingers.
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Offline PMPeter  
#6 Posted : 13 February 2019 16:23:10(UTC)
PMPeter

Canada   
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1,273
Location: Port Moody, BC
Yes superglue will glue it initially, but I have had no luck with it staying glued once you operate trains. I have also tried 2 part epoxy and it holds for a few months and then breaks again.

Since I use K track I can at least use track spikes to hold the broken rail in position, but with C track you don't have that option.
Offline kiwiAlan  
#7 Posted : 13 February 2019 18:17:27(UTC)
kiwiAlan

United Kingdom   
Joined: 23/07/2014(UTC)
Posts: 8,082
Location: ENGLAND, Didcot
Originally Posted by: Hics Go to Quoted Post

Why it is not showing a pictures?


It takes a few minutes for the webmasters magic script to resize the pictures to the post. Typically if you look at the post about 5 minutes or so after sending it than the pictures are there.

I have never seen a C track point do that. As others have said you will need to use a couple of pairs of pliers to gently add some more curve into that rail so it doesn't spring out of position once glued down.

But as to what glue to use, I'm not sure. I would try using a Peco track nail as suggested, as it looks like the plastic clips on the fish plates have broken. If you could push some track nails in there that will help stop the rail from wandering.

Offline Minok  
#8 Posted : 13 February 2019 18:28:50(UTC)
Minok

United States   
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,310
Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
Did the plastic (iron) mounts break off that held the rail? I'd use a clamp and CA superglue to align and glue to the bed, but then drill a hole and insert a pin to hold the rail from the inside- its gotta be low so not hitting the flanges, and then glue that with an epoxy like JB Weld (Quickweld is the faster setting one). Once that epoxy hardens fully, you can file it to shape.
Toys of tin and wood rule!
---
My Layout Thread on marklin-users.net: InterCity 1-3-4
My YouTube Channel:
https://youtube.com/@intercity134
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Offline PMPeter  
#9 Posted : 13 February 2019 18:48:53(UTC)
PMPeter

Canada   
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1,273
Location: Port Moody, BC
JB Weld is what I use on all of my brittle 1990s C track. However, as previously indicated it seems to hold for about 3 - 4 months and then just breaks off in an epoxy chunk. It just does not bond permanently.

Now perhaps with the new formula C track plastic the epoxy does bond. However, that brings up the question of what is the date code on the back of the switch involved? If it is the late 1990s to early 2000s version with the brittle plastic you will be fighting an uphill battle to repair this. I have had to throw more than one switch into the garbage because of this problem.

Peter
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Offline Minok  
#10 Posted : 13 February 2019 22:36:49(UTC)
Minok

United States   
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,310
Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
Originally Posted by: PMPeter Go to Quoted Post
JB Weld is what I use on all of my brittle 1990s C track. However, as previously indicated it seems to hold for about 3 - 4 months and then just breaks off in an epoxy chunk. It just does not bond permanently.

Peter


This is why you need to drill hole(s) and Unser small bit of wire to give the epoxy something to anchor too. The smooth plastic isn’t a good bonding surface.
Toys of tin and wood rule!
---
My Layout Thread on marklin-users.net: InterCity 1-3-4
My YouTube Channel:
https://youtube.com/@intercity134
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Offline PMPeter  
#11 Posted : 14 February 2019 04:16:50(UTC)
PMPeter

Canada   
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1,273
Location: Port Moody, BC
Originally Posted by: Minok Go to Quoted Post
This is why you need to drill hole(s) and Unser small bit of wire to give the epoxy something to anchor too. The smooth plastic isn’t a good bonding surface.


Totally understood, but that is one of the key problems with the brittle C track. Any attempt at drilling, even with a pin vise, just shatters the track around the hole being drilled. The same applies with trying to mount a switch machine. The posts for fixing the screws into just shatter when either trying to insert the screw or trying to enlarge the opening with a drill to prevent the screw shatter.

That's why I ask what the date code for his switch is, because if it is within the brittle C track date range, drilling a hole to accept a track spike will just make matters worse.

Peter
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Offline Minok  
#12 Posted : 14 February 2019 07:26:10(UTC)
Minok

United States   
Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,310
Location: Washington, Pacific Northwest
Ah yes. If the plastic is bad chuck it. It’s a lost cause
Toys of tin and wood rule!
---
My Layout Thread on marklin-users.net: InterCity 1-3-4
My YouTube Channel:
https://youtube.com/@intercity134
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Offline hxmiesa  
#13 Posted : 14 February 2019 17:37:42(UTC)
hxmiesa

Spain   
Joined: 15/12/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,519
Location: Spain
Drill small holes in the side of the track, close to the "heartpiece" of the switch.
Drill them, both in the piece of rail that is out of its seat, and the other beside it, which is correctly seated.
You need to drill 2 small hoels in each rail, as close to the "heartpìece" as possible.

Then, thread a fine strong wire through the 4 holes, and twist the ends together to form a loop. Tighten the loop by keep twisting the wire, until the foce of the loop pulls the loose piece of track into allignment of the "heartpiece".
The holes has to be very small, maybe 0,5mm. Maybe you can use a Dremel. The thread has to be even smaller. -And probably has to be metallic in order to stand the force applied.
I hope I explained myself well enough, although a simple drawing would explain it much better. lol
Best regards
Henrik Hoexbroe ("The Dane In Spain")
http://hoexbroe.tripod.com
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Offline PMPeter  
#14 Posted : 14 February 2019 19:45:41(UTC)
PMPeter

Canada   
Joined: 04/04/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1,273
Location: Port Moody, BC
Great point and suggestion, but again not doable if the switch is from the 1996 - 2003 brittle C track era. HICS really needs to let us know what the date code on the switch bottom says.

If this is the same switch as HICS has pictured in the other thread regarding the decoder, then it is an April 2000 manufactured switch, which falls into the brittle C track era, and no amount of drilling or tightening will solve the problem. It will just continue, to break more and more. If no one believes me I have close to $3,000 of this stuff in their original boxes that I would love to get rid of and am reluctant to throw out, but always do when I try to use a piece or more!
Offline Hics  
#15 Posted : 14 February 2019 22:27:38(UTC)
Hics

United Kingdom   
Joined: 15/02/2018(UTC)
Posts: 162
Location: England, St Ives
It is the same. You know more than I do. Wink
It is 04..2000. I will try to support it with a metal pin head.
As I do it I will make plenty of pictures and post them for you. In a meantime we can stop the discussion.
Thanks guys.
Offline sjbartels  
#16 Posted : 15 February 2019 21:38:27(UTC)
sjbartels

United States   
Joined: 11/08/2015(UTC)
Posts: 1,091
Originally Posted by: PMPeter Go to Quoted Post
Great point and suggestion, but again not doable if the switch is from the 1996 - 2003 brittle C track era. HICS really needs to let us know what the date code on the switch bottom says.


If it's truly from the brittle era, I would just toss it. If it's not from the brittle era, it's worth attempting a repair, but I don't think it will truly hold for very long with super glue before it lets go again. One option is to maybe use a piece of wire between the two rails (and of course keeping it away from the third rail) and use that to hold them apart. Make sure the wire is as flat as possible
American by Geography, Australian by Birth. I am an original Ameristraylian
Offline xxup  
#17 Posted : 15 February 2019 22:55:00(UTC)
xxup

Australia   
Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC)
Posts: 9,457
Location: Australia
Or you can get m-track... LOL
Adrian
UserPostedImage
Australia flag by abFlags.com
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Offline dickinsonj  
#18 Posted : 16 February 2019 01:33:28(UTC)
dickinsonj

United States   
Joined: 05/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,676
Location: Crozet, Virginia
I have tossed out a whole railroad of the old C track and the problem only gets worse the older it gets until it just basically shatters.

Best to just pitch it and move on in my opinion, which is what I have done.
Regards,
Jim

I have almost all Märklin and mostly HO, although I do have a small number of Z gauge trains!
So many trains and so little time.
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Offline MaerklinLife  
#19 Posted : 16 February 2019 05:27:28(UTC)
MaerklinLife


Joined: 03/02/2016(UTC)
Posts: 490
I agree, replace the turnout. There is no long time working solution if it is that old.
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