Hi, over many years I have been constructing an overhead system and over many years have improved how it can be done, living in an area, the last place on earth, it wasn't easy to get around to figure out how it should be done as Perth (Western Australia) didn't have an electrified rail net work, I'm still not 100 % sure which wire goes over or under when two wires meet at a turnout or double turnout but otherwise I've figured it out what's what.
in the beginning I used to buy already made up wires but these days I just bay the bare wire and construct the system myself, again more work involved in it and a lot more time to do it.
first one starts with the masts and figure out where they should be placed (with 2 guidance plates), when you're happy with the location you can start with the bottom wire secure it on one solid end, work your way up the track and secure it on the other end, by soldering more wires together, I do this by slightly bending each end up, you know have a established a rigid bottom wire, make sure the pantographs are within the limits of the wire. than the top wire which you guide through the sling hole of the mast itself,

the next step is measuring the wire from mast to mast and than place an upright wire in the middle and work your uprights towards each mast considering the same distance of the uprights should be on either side of the mast. my latest innovation has been I bend the uprights at the end over this gives a more secure soldering point on the bottom wire and to some extend you'll find this on the prototypical system as well. the height or length of the middle upright wire give you the termination how far away the top wire should be and you work your way along and place all other uprights and solder them as well. by the time you've soldered the middle upright the top wire will automatically shape itself from the mast position to the middle position of the wire.
each mast has a long and short outrigger and this determends that the wire moves between 2 masts from left to right on the pantograph(s). in a double track curved situation it always be the longer outrigger on the in side track and the short outrigger on the outside track, this is necessary because of the tension the wire is under.
in the end I clean up the solder joints.


this is pretty much all you have to do.

John

Edited by user 08 March 2017 16:45:40(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

with the pictures you've seen I'm not happy with the soldering results, I used an ordinary soldering iron but will use my other soldering iron in future and you will notice the difference. the one I use all the time is a 100 watt soldering iron and it has a double tweezer tips and I've just ordered another pair of tips with a 2mm width, they are usually used for smd led's but come in handy soldering wires together which makes it much more tidy, I also use a paste (non corrosive) and the same with the solder its led free.

there is no secret or special talent to do what I do, is just using the correct tools or tools which are suitable for the job you would like to get done.

the next pictures I will [post you will see the difference

Hello again Jacques,


You would be very welcome.

I think you would find the cruising areas around southeast Tasmania enjoyable yachting - as did various French explorers in the late 1700's.
Below we are anchored in a bay off the D'Entrecasteaux Channel and ahead is Bruny island. Both named for Antoine Bruni d'Entrecasteaux who explored the area in 1792.
The English (in Sydney) were concerned the French wanted to settle Van Dieman's Land (now Tasmania) and sent a preemptive party to settle Hobart in 1803 - the second settlement in Australia after Sydney; the rest is history!






Regards,

Philip