Halo my friends

In another topic
https://www.marklin-user...4-3048-BR-01-restoration

I saw you the restoration of a 3048.1 and 3048.5

They are working smoothly both, but are not digital.

So I decide to do the conversion.

The task is:
1. DC high-efficiency motor (5 pole if possible)
2. mSD3 Decoder
3. LED lights, front, rear, cabin, gears
4. Smoke generator (already installed but for analogue operation)

The problem with 3048 is that there is no motor kit available for this motor (motor cover actually), and you need to do modifications to the 60944 motor (type I) by yourself.

After the discussion in the forum, and the valuable opinions of many of you, with previous experience in this loco, I decide to start with 3048.5 with the easy way.
Marklin some years ago make a replica of the original 3048 with catalog No 30080. In this loco they used a variation of the 60944 motor with a different motor cover.
This motor is still available as a spare part from Marklin No E188838, costs 25€ on Marklin shop but you can find it around 20€ in other e-shops in Germany.
I order it from Marklin with other items... and in 5 days arrived in my door in Athens!!!




Inside the package there are:
2 x 601460 brushes
1 x 210882 Magnet
1 x 214118 Armature (7 teeth)
1 x ???? Motor cover
1 x 212230 Solder point
2 different screws





So we have 2 pair of brushes but no any Interference suppression choke!!! why???
No problem I have many !!!

The same motor is for 3008 and 3026 and 3193 Primex variations

So I will go on with the conversion

Best regards
and a big THANKS to all of you for your help!!!!

Costas

______________________________________________________________________________________
Canon 70D, EF-S 18-135 f4.5, in M mode

Edited by user 18 January 2017 11:52:14(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

When I will complete my conversion I will publish the photos so you will understund what exactly I mean.
But that's my plan.

Photo of the front of the 3048 before the conversion.



As you can see original the outside of the lamp holder is insulated from the frame and a black wire is connected on it.
This wire is coming from the main soldering point and has the current of the third rail.
The lamp holder is connected with the cooper contact spring for the smoke generator (It was factory fitted in this Loco).

So the only thing that you have to do is unsolder the black wire (already done) and in the same place solder the f1 wire (Br/Yel in Marklin). Return is not needed (blue wire in ESU, orange in Marklin)). Stick in the cover a 7226 smoke generator and that's all.

The Light is already as I can see connected to to the gray and orange wires insulated from the cover.
You can press the new lamp socket into the old lamp holder.
The old lamp holder as you remember is connected to the frame with a small screw.
Attention to the insulation paper. (better to check that there is no a short circuit with a multimeter before run the Loco)

Regards

Costas

Second step: Very good cleaning of the Loco
Gears, axles, wheels, frame everything with Isopropyl Alcohol with patience.....

The result:





Oiling of all the moving parts carefully

Everything is looking fine, is working fine.

No mechanical problems with all the parts of the gear drive, axles, wheels...

Ready for the next step the installation of the new motor.

Thanks

Costas

______________________________________________________________________________________
Canon 70D, EF-S 18-135 f4.5, in M mode

Next step: Decoder Instalation

I will use a 21pin base plate (there is enough space).
The think is that latter I can put in a speaker, plug in a sound decoder, and the Loco can have sound easily without any modification. There is space in the body for a small speaker Märklin or ESU.
At the moment I will use a 60942 decoder.

The functions will be:
f0: Front-rear lights
f1: Smoke generator
f2: Valve Gear Light
f5: Cabin Light

First I attached the base with a screw were the reversing unit was.







I made a small PCB and I used SMD resistors for the LEDs of the body (front, cabin, valve gear), the resistor for the rear light will be in the Tender.
(The photo is of an identical PCB but with different resistor values used in another conversion)



With a drop of warm glue I fixed the plate in the back of the decoder plastic base.
Soldering of the wires..



The resistor values are: 1kΩ for front LED and 2kΩ for the cabin and valve gear LEDs.
Can be different according to the type of LEDs and the brightness that we want.



For the Front light I used a bi-pin bulb holder E604180, inserted - but isolated - in the old bulb holder. This holder has electrical contact with the smoke generator contact. So the Aux1 br/red wire soldered on this for the f1.

A 5mm WW LED inserted in the E604180 (be careful with the polarity: gray wire is the cathode).





The cabin light and the valve gear lights are SMD LEDs WW (AUX3 and AUX2)

Finishing the wiring of the motor



Decoder in place



Everything is working properly

Next step the rear lights not done yet

Thanks

Costas

Hi to all

The conversion of the 3048.5 that started some months ago finished yesterday.....

The Final step is the Rear lights on the tender

First a couple of photos of the Cabin LED:





The tender in the locos of these years is not permanently attached to the Loco. I decide to keep this so I make a 2 pole connection from SIL. The female on the Loco:



I drill carefully two 3mm diam holes where the faux lights are on the tender.

Inside I had put 3mm WW LEDs connected in series





A 47kΩ 1/4 W resistor soldered in series with the LEDs on the Yellow wire (-).


The Loco with the Body on. With the black painted magnet looks fine!!!



The Tender is connected





That's it.

In case that I like sound the only think that I have to do is to change the decoder and connect a speaker.

Thanks

Costas