I Have replaced the leads on all my 6 old blue trannys.

Just a note. An electric linesman was working on a transformer up a pole by the airport in Kerikeri. happened and a white hot lump of copper fell down and set fire to the wetlands by the airport. The whole lot burned up. The wetlands have all grown back but it just shows that even if you know what you are doing, shit happens.

The world is turning to crap slowly with regulations, and we will soon need a license to wipe our own asses.

Dereck

What the hell, you're actually allowed to do that up there?

Down here we are required to hold it all in, until there's enough crap inside for us to become politicians!!

I'm speaking to my MP....

The only safety issue inherent in all blue transformers is that they are bidirectional. When using multiple transformers it is possiblt to connect the layout wiring in such a way that when you unplug one transformer you get mains voltage on the pins of your plug and a subsequent risk of electrocution. In this case the transformer is working backwards and coverting the 16V of the layout into 120/230 V at the other end.

The instructions for these older transformers always carried a warning about this.

The latest switched-mode power supplies don't have this problem at all.

Hi,

Caution: Not all grey/white transformers have that protection. Earlier models don't have it. I don't know any feature to see from the outside whether the transformer is equipped with the electronic or not. The best way is to handle all transformers with the same precautions.

Regards

Markus

I have a 6611 which I intend to use exactly the same way as you do, no issues with that.

The older 50's-60's transformers rubber cable insulation hardens & crumble so when you bend it - it crumbles both the outer cable isolation and the inner lead isolation.

The 6611 has a grey plastic cable insulation of modern standards so it's safe to use, unless there is some damage on the mains cable...

The older transformers have a metal casing that can cause electrical shocks if gone bad, the more modern ones have a plastic casing and thus less dangerous...

As a newbie to the board I was interested in this old thread about the 6153 transformer. I was looking to see if anyone can tell me why I am only getting 9V to my indicator bulb. The Marklin Man in North Carolina says that the correct bulb is 18V and indeed, I am getting a dramatically reduced glow from the new bulb. Any thoughts on what I can do? I take full responsibility for anything I may attempt in resolving this issue as I have had the appropriate training in working with 110V current. Thanks guys.

The correct connection for light bulbs is between yellow and brown.
Between yellow and red or between red and brown you will get varying voltages, depending on the setting of the speedknob.

Is the transformer rated for 220 V?

Hi,

#6153 is the correct number for an UL-listed 110/115V transformer. Are we talking about the bulb inside the transformer?

Regards

Markus

The world is turning to crap slowly with regulations, and we will soon need a license to wipe our own asses.

Dereck

Well they do and they even have their own runway.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerikeri_Airport

https://web.archive.org/....kerikeri-airport.co.nz/

This for only 7.400 people.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kerikeri

They say orange is the world's favorite flavour.

I have mainly post-2005 Maerklin items, but I once purchased 2 blue transformers with other stuff.
I immediately packed them off to Maerklin in Germany, who sent me 2 new grey ones, and I think they cost me 20 Euros each.

Kimball

I worked in NZ in 1982 and saw most of both islands.
Nice country and easy going people.
I was not at Kerikeri,came as far north as the Bay of Islands.
I saw planes landing at Windy Wellington,not something for the weakhearted.
I suppose the distances warrant local airports.
Some names refer to Dutch explorer Abel Tasman,who was there on 13 December 1642,well before James Cook.

Is there a list somewhere of the transformers which should be checked? Is the 6177 in that category?

John

I can only repeat what I always say. By an up to date power pack and controller as the basis of a layout which will ( at least mine do) last for years. I don't see the point in spending on expensive locos etc and trying to save on what drives them. However it is down to what budget you have on model rail.

Wow. A fascinating, and obviously controversial, topic. I replaced the power cords on my 5 venerable 280 trafos several years ago for the obvious reasons - badly deteriorated inside insulation. I bought replacement 5-ft appliance cords (with molded-on 3-prong male plugs) at my local hardware store. I documented the necessary steps and took pictures, including how to open and properly ground the case. I intended to post instructions with the usual caveats so that others similarly inclined could safely and properly resurrect these classic period pieces, even after reading the previous thread with all the cautionary and legal warnings. However, I'm even more reluctant now than before, based on what a "hot" topic this is.

Obligatory disclaimer: I absolutely discourage anyone from attempting to repair any electrical device where doing so yourself is illegal. That said, it is completely acceptable and legal to do so in many jurisdictions. AS LONG AS YOU DO SO TO CODE. Don't even think about it if you have any questions or don't possess a basic understanding of electrical concepts. I'm not a licensed electrician, but I've done inside and outside house wiring for myself and others, built my own stereo and TV from kits (back when TVs used CRTs and high-voltage power supplies), and done many an appliance and electrical tool repair. So, I feel fairly confident I know what I'm doing and suspect many of you are equally competent, or even more so. More importantly, I have a healthy respect for where my skill level stops. I would never, for example, mess with anything on the supply side of a service panel.

Although dangerous, and you're certainly going to get a nasty surprise, 110V AC in the US at a wall socket is unlikely to kill you unless you have an underlying cardiac issue. Otherwise, there'd be a lot more dead people who had grabbed a partially inserted plug by the prongs. Sparks and/or resulting fire from a short circuit are the far greater risk. I can't speak to 220/240V overseas, but my guess is the risk is similarly limited. Actual hazard is more a function of the amperage your body absorbs and how/where the current traverses your body, than strictly voltage. A Tesla coil, for example, can easily be upwards of 100KV and will make your hair stand on end from the generated electrical field, but it's relatively safe because the amperage is so low. Conversely, arc welders typically operate at a lower voltage at the business end, but are quite dangerous due to the available amperage which is sufficient to melt metal.

Sorry for the long-winded post. I'm pretty much a believer that knowledge is better than ignorance, and the truly curious or foolhardy are going to experiment whether I post something on the Internet or not. Be careful, be smart, and know your limits.

- MR

Edited by user 06 November 2023 20:34:27(UTC)  | Reason: clarity, spelling error