Hello, Everyone:

I am thinking of putting together a Helix with an R1 radius but do not know where to begin.

Some of the questions I have are:

1. Does having a helix put too much strain on locos?
Going up a climb seems like a lot of work for a small engine; am I wrong?

2. Is an R1 radius too small?
My space does not really allow for any wider helix.

3. How do I actually put it together?
I mean, do I go to my Marklin dealer and ask for an already made helix? Somehow, I don't think so. I think I need to put it together myself or I need to have it done for me. Does the Markling shop have the paper "blueprints"?

4. Are K tracks good for doing this?
I know that C tracks are. Any problems if I used K tracks?

Thanks.

Creating a Helix in Scarm:- http://www.scarm.info/bl...-sectional-tracks-video/

Hi Baggio,

Just some of my thoughts on the subject

A) Re: My space does not really allow for any wider helix.
While most people conceive a helix to be made solely of curved track and of the same radii, consider the option of an oval with progressive curves or even insert straights in one dimension. Anything to allow reduced gradients.
- A related specification here is the height you need - i.e. do you use catenary?

B1) Allow for servicing, and good construction access
- if the track to track height distance does not allow for your hand to get hold of a derailed loco and do basic maneuvering you will be sorry,
- for getting your head and hand/arm up the middle of the helix, eliminate any bulky infrastructure - e.g. use metal rods instead of 4x2's
- getting track laid properly is well worth a bit of extra time, however designing for ease of access to do the work is just as important.

B2) Expect derailments - e.g. of the type caused by a 2nd train rear ending the fist and causing an accordion effect
- this may mean adding some side barrier for protection to prevent items testing their bounce coefficient as they fall to the ground.
- In lieu of B1 - accessibility - it may be worth making the barriers removable.

C) The Entry and Exit slope transitions should never be overlooked - reference the bridge approach diagrams in the Marklin Catalogs.
- Tip. for C-Track, you may make saw cuts across the roadbed from the underside (say 10 cuts per piece) , this will allow for a better curving rather than leaving the gradient change to a kink at the join of track pieces.
- ideally do not start the track curving until the locomotive has all wheels on the main gradient
- maintain a consistent gradient - hyper-elevation may creep in with construction and may assist with draw-bar effort but it has to be extremely well designed if you want max traction with all tires touching the rails.

D) Unlike a straight incline where you can get away with a stiff board and in-frequent pillars, (I believe) a curve/helix should be supported at least once per piece of track. In doing so you need smaller (thinner) supports and may benefit by using 6mm, 4.5mm or even 3mm base board which will better conform to gradient changes while curving.
- suggest cutting track baseboard out of a single sheet (as much as practical) to allow natural conforming of gradient changes.
- work with the board - not against it.
- suggest the width of the base board (where the track sits) be only marginally wider than the track itself (safety consideration of A2 not withstanding)

Noch makes a very handy helix kit that can be easily installed into a self built layout.
If you intend to make the helix hidden, make sure that you provide an access panel into the space so that you can take care of any derailments or other problems.
These days, it is possible to install LED lighting and digital cameras so that regular monitoring can be done from the control desk.

http://www.noch.com/en/p...n-structuring/helix.html
http://www.eurorailhobbi..._list.asp?erh_find=helix

Regards

Mike C

I am not an expert. I think that it can be bought in kits that provide one loop, two loops, etc for single and/or parallel track. The kit contains the brackets that support the helix and the supports to which the tracks are attached. The Noch website should provide more details.

Regards

Mike C

My comment about a helix would be as follows: -

If at all possible, when having a twin track helix, arrange the track layout so the outer track is the one that is for the train climbing the helix, and the inner track for the train coming down. This makes the grade for the climbing train ever so slightly less, and the drag due to going around a corner just that little bit less than if it is trying to do the same on the inner track.

It is not always possible to arrange the track layout like this, but i think it makes enough difference to be worth the effort.

Hi

Here is another Helix maker

https://www.gleiswendel-...iswendel-h0-3210125.html

in the instructions, it explains how to maintain a steady gradient (3%) on R2 R3 double helix.

Cheaper than Noch and caters for all sizes etc.

Tim

Make the spiral partly visible to effectively increase radius thus reduce gradient and make the layout more interesting.