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Offline fhp2  
#1 Posted : 01 July 2013 00:02:21(UTC)
fhp2

France   
Joined: 11/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 86
Location: paris
Hello,

I just bought the MTH 80-2135-5 diesel engine in 3-rails AC with the protosound decoder 3E+.
I cannot get the engine moving even if the sound is all right.
I cannot read or write the CV...
I need help...!!
Thank you in advance, Francois.
Offline H0  
#2 Posted : 01 July 2013 00:16:42(UTC)
H0


Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,438
Location: DE-NW
Salut!

It seems that MTH have a switch that toggles between DCS and DCC mode.
Did you set your loco to DCC mode?

See also:
https://www.marklin-user...H-80-2173-5-UP-GP35.aspx
Regards
Tom
---
"In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS
UserPostedImage
Offline fhp2  
#3 Posted : 01 July 2013 00:37:12(UTC)
fhp2

France   
Joined: 11/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 86
Location: paris
Yes, the switch is on DCC all right.
It stopped running when i was setting the speed by writing on CV5.
Then no way to read or write again any CV...
I try to do a reset by setting CV8 to 8, but nothing append...
Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#4 Posted : 01 July 2013 05:36:04(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,047
1)Out of curiosity, which controller are you using?

2)Are you using the programming track or the regular track?
Offline fhp2  
#5 Posted : 01 July 2013 07:30:17(UTC)
fhp2

France   
Joined: 11/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 86
Location: paris
I am using the marklin cs2 and I am on the programming track...
Any ideas ?
Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#6 Posted : 01 July 2013 08:24:58(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,047
A couple of things.

I am assuming you were using the DCC signal from the CS2. According to that thread HO gave you the link for, the decoder can work as a Motorola. I would completely delete the loco entry from the CS2. Then I would enter it manually as a Motorola, address 3 (if you haven't changed it). If it works then I would delete it again and try entering it again as a DCC loco. Should it work then change now the CV's to whathever you like. Make sure track is clean and do changes with the loco standing still.

If it doesn't work I would try (if you have) any friend with a different controller. If that or any other ideas don't work then I suppose there is the chance that when you were changing CV's the sequence got interrupted by bad contact with the rails and it might have corrupted the info on the decoder. If that is the case you'll have to have it checked by the dealer.
Offline fhp2  
#7 Posted : 01 July 2013 09:30:48(UTC)
fhp2

France   
Joined: 11/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 86
Location: paris
First, Thank you for your help !
I already try another controller but the same problem. No way of communicating with the decoder...!
I will try your idea of the Motorola mode....
I also read that the factory reset mode is done by setting the digital address to 55, the writing 55 to CV55...
Is that the right way to do on a cs2 ? But not being able to communicate with the decoder might mean that this won't work...
Anyway, I will try this too...
I will keep you informed.
Best, Francois.
Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#8 Posted : 01 July 2013 15:35:03(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,047
Originally Posted by: fhp2 Go to Quoted Post


1)I also read that the factory reset mode is done by setting the digital address to 55, the writing 55 to CV55...
Is that the right way to do on a cs2 ?

2)But not being able to communicate with the decoder might mean that this won't work...

3)I will keep you informed.
Best, Francois.


1) I couldn't tell you because I rarely control the decoders through the CV's. Normally I use the more user friendly screens on my controller. On top of that, an MTH loco is something I have never dealt with. If you have read the manual and it says to write 55 to CV55 to reset, I have to hope that they gave the correct information???

2)Very likely but you have to try to make sure.

3)Please do.

Offline fhp2  
#9 Posted : 02 July 2013 02:13:27(UTC)
fhp2

France   
Joined: 11/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 86
Location: paris
Hello,

None of the above suggestions worked... So, i decided to try to open the locomotive to check inside.
First of all, there is no explanation on how to proceed to open the locomotive's body...! I had to force a little and of course i broke some little plastic pieces...
I then checked the decoder wiring, everything seemed ok. Then as the locomotive was back on the track i started to move each wire in case of a bad contact.
Then as i touched the white wire going down to the engine, the loco started to move...
I then try to access the engine to check the end of this white wire but there is no way to remove the lower body surrounding the engine in order to access the soldered points of the engine...!!!
THis wire would probably need to be soldered again, but no access !!
So i just push the wire from its original position where the engine is running and it worked but this is highly frustrating...

Now, i want to programmed the CV and particularly CV3, 4, and 5. I was surprised to see that the default value of these CV is 0...!
Does anybody knows what range of values these CV would accept ?
Thank you in advance, Francois.
Offline Nielsenr  
#10 Posted : 02 July 2013 04:36:17(UTC)
Nielsenr

United States   
Joined: 06/10/2010(UTC)
Posts: 883
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
I just looked at my manual for my GP35 and since the CVs are apparently one byte in length I would assume legal values would be 0-255. Don't forget to set CV52 bit 0 to 1. This enables PWM mode.

Robert
Offline fhp2  
#11 Posted : 02 July 2013 04:51:52(UTC)
fhp2

France   
Joined: 11/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 86
Location: paris
What is the PWM mode ?
Offline fhp2  
#12 Posted : 03 July 2013 03:18:31(UTC)
fhp2

France   
Joined: 11/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 86
Location: paris
Hello again,
I am progressing in my set up of the engine even if my bad connection problem comes back regularly...(i still can't figure out how to detach the motor from the lower part of the body...).
The programming of the CV went well. You were right, the range of CV5 to set the speed, is between 0 and 255.
In order to set CV 3 and 4 for acceleration and deceleration, you need first to set CV52 to 1.
If you want to use long address, CV 29 has to be set at 38.
Francois.
Offline Nielsenr  
#13 Posted : 03 July 2013 04:43:50(UTC)
Nielsenr

United States   
Joined: 06/10/2010(UTC)
Posts: 883
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation. PWM is a technique for getting analog results with digital means. I won't get into a technical discussion, but understand that the MTH decoder needs it turned on to control acceleration and deceleration rates.

Robert
Offline fhp2  
#14 Posted : 03 July 2013 10:07:49(UTC)
fhp2

France   
Joined: 11/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 86
Location: paris
Thank you Robert,
This is what i did by setting CV52 to 1. Now i have acceleration nd deceleration.
Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#15 Posted : 03 July 2013 10:29:22(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,047
Originally Posted by: fhp2 Go to Quoted Post
Hello again,
i still can't figure out how to detach the motor from the lower part of the body...).

Francois.


Upload a few photos from different angles, a few heads may think more than just oneLOL Anyway, it'll be interesting to see the inside. Alex
Offline fhp2  
#16 Posted : 08 July 2013 11:59:36(UTC)
fhp2

France   
Joined: 11/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 86
Location: paris
Hello,

Here are some images.
First one is the SD70 without the upper body. I am trying to remove the part of the body surrounding the motor to access the lower part of the motor to check the contact with the white wire...

SD70 openned

Here is the white wire i need to touch when the motor gets stucked in order to move again... The lower connection of this wire must be the problem but no way to access it...

White wire

Below you can see how the upper body is fixed to the lower body. You need to squeeze the upper part to remove it and to avoid the kind of damage i did...

Damage

I hope this is understandable...?
Best, Francois.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by fhp2
Offline DamonKelly  
#17 Posted : 08 July 2013 13:24:44(UTC)
DamonKelly

Australia   
Joined: 26/03/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,423
Location: Brisbane, QLD
Thanks Francois for the photos. ThumpUp
My 80-2135-5 arrived here in Oz last Wednesday, but I haven't had time to fire it up.
I hope I don't have any problems...
Cheers,
Damon
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by DamonKelly
Offline Iamnotthecrazyone  
#18 Posted : 09 July 2013 05:21:45(UTC)
Iamnotthecrazyone

Australia   
Joined: 22/01/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1,047
Ok, it is possible! you need to remove the big board in the center then you'll see 4 screws, I think you'll need to take of the couplers as well. This video should help.



On top of that, this one should help you to take the body without braking any more tabs.



Let me know how it went.
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Iamnotthecrazyone
Offline fhp2  
#19 Posted : 09 July 2013 08:47:19(UTC)
fhp2

France   
Joined: 11/11/2011(UTC)
Posts: 86
Location: paris
Thank you very much !
It helped a lot !
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