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Offline Mad151  
#1 Posted : 26 December 2012 06:38:24(UTC)
Mad151

United States   
Joined: 26/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Massachusetts
Hello,

I bought a Marklin maxi starter set about five years ago. I only use it around Xmas but this year I realized that my transformer was dead - no voltage when tested at the back of the transformer... I bought another, it seemed to fine for a week or so now the variable voltage output is dead (you know, the red knob), but the constant accessory side is fine.

WHAT AM I DOING TO FRY THESE THINGS? I KNOW THEY SHOULD LAST LONGER THAN THIS!

Offline Markus Schild  
#2 Posted : 26 December 2012 08:54:18(UTC)
Markus Schild

Germany   
Joined: 14/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,802
Location: Wurttemberg
Hi,

Is it really dead? Newer versions of this transformer don't reset automatically after a short-circuit. It only resets if you unplug it for a short time.

Regards

Markus
Offline Webmaster  
#3 Posted : 26 December 2012 21:14:27(UTC)
Webmaster


Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,165
And you do not have an accidental short on the track?

Have you tested the voltage on the "red knob" output by eg connecting a 12V car lightbulb (while disconnected from the layout) ?
If the bulb shines, then there is voltage - and it could be eg stuck gears in the loco that need some oil...

Just some wild thoughts...
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb]
Offline Hoffmann  
#4 Posted : 26 December 2012 22:27:24(UTC)
Hoffmann

Canada   
Joined: 25/11/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,106
Location: Guelph, Ontario
Hi,

Regarding the second Transformer ( red Knob problem ) is it a #6646 ? . The wire which connects the Knob to the Slider inside the Housing is probably broken from moving the Knob a lot. I have seen this before.
When the Transformer is assembled some time they have the Wire to tight and it will break after a while.



It always amazes me that this never happened to the Old blue Transformers.

Martin
marklin-eh
thanks 1 user liked this useful post by Hoffmann
Offline kbvrod  
#5 Posted : 26 December 2012 22:36:22(UTC)
kbvrod

United States   
Joined: 23/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,597
Location: Beverly, MA
Hi all,
Blown fuse,common in DC.

Dr D
Offline Hoffmann  
#6 Posted : 27 December 2012 01:56:53(UTC)
Hoffmann

Canada   
Joined: 25/11/2004(UTC)
Posts: 1,106
Location: Guelph, Ontario


Sorry Dr D. No Fuse in that transformer (overload Circuit Breaker).

Martin
marklin-eh
Offline Mad151  
#7 Posted : 01 January 2013 23:49:12(UTC)
Mad151

United States   
Joined: 26/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Massachusetts
Thanks for the responses.

I'm trying to open the transformer up.....any suggestions... It's harder than seems necessary.

Is there a technique I should be aware of?
Offline cookee_nz  
#8 Posted : 02 January 2013 01:59:35(UTC)
cookee_nz

New Zealand   
Joined: 31/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3,999
Location: Paremata, Wellington
Originally Posted by: Mad151 Go to Quoted Post
Thanks for the responses.

I'm trying to open the transformer up.....any suggestions... It's harder than seems necessary.

Is there a technique I should be aware of?


Not really giving us a lot to go on here, we need to know the specific trafo first, the number will be underneath, ie 66xx.

And you need to be aware that opening the Trafo exposes the high-voltage wiring - yes of course you'd do this with the power off, but it's what someone may or may not do in their repair attempt which poses the danger. This of course is at your own risk. Now with the disclaimer out the way.... BigGrin

If it's assembled in the style of similar units (ie 6646 as below), there are two plastic plugs on each side which need to be extracted.

I'm not sure of the 'factory' method to remove those plugs, but it could involve either a real powerful suction tool, or more likely simply drilling them out and fitting new ones when done.

I remember seeing a procedure for this online (with pictures) but I simply cannot find it to re-post here - if someone else knows.... bring it on.

One thing you could try depending on what tools you have is to drill a fairly small hole right in the center, then try to screw a slightly larger self-tapping screw with a sharp point into the plug until it grips and then pull it out. Quite likely you'll find the plug will simply turn in the hole and that can be quite frustrating so you might need to jam a sharp jeweler's screwdriver or similar against the plug to hold it. Oh, and of course you need at least three hands for this LOL LOL

If you're not really bothered about cosmetic appearance, you can also kind of pry them out with a pair of box-cutter blades or similar, yep it's brutal, and will make a mess of them, and you might also lose a finger-tip or two, but that's all part of the fun yes?? And that's what I had to do many years ago when I had to open my Central Control, and had no suitable drill bits at hand. I did get them out.

Failing that, simply drill them out altogether, but be VERY careful not to drill any further into the unit than the length of the plug, which of course you don't know, but I think from memory is no more than about 1cm. As for securing it after attempted repair, you could just use ordinary self-tappers or similar. Drill bit size should probably be about 2 sizes smaller than the plug itself otherwise you drill out the housing and you don't want that.

Gripping and pulling the plug is what you really want.

Someone is bound to post a more elegant solution than this so hold off for the time-being.

Best

Steve
cookee_nz attached the following image(s):
6646.jpg
Cookee
Wellington
NZ image
Offline Bigdaddynz  
#9 Posted : 02 January 2013 03:02:24(UTC)
Bigdaddynz

New Zealand   
Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC)
Posts: 18,772
Location: New Zealand
Originally Posted by: cookee_nz Go to Quoted Post
........or more likely simply drilling them out and fitting new ones when done.


Peter Clapcott's (forum member 'Clapcott') method that he showed me was to drill a small hole in the centre of the plastic plug. You then insert a small screw into the hole and screw it in. The screw can then be used to pull the plug out, and to reinsert it when the case is being closed up again (a method which I see on a 2nd read of Cookee's post that Cookee has mentioned).
Offline Mad151  
#10 Posted : 02 January 2013 03:15:47(UTC)
Mad151

United States   
Joined: 26/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Massachusetts
Thanks - yes the transformer is a 6646.

I see the plugs and will attempt the extraction.
Offline Mad151  
#11 Posted : 02 January 2013 08:49:31(UTC)
Mad151

United States   
Joined: 26/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Massachusetts
Alright, I think I found the problem.

A broken wire - just on the backside of the red dial that is the throttle control. There wire runs through an anchor point to avoid rubbing, but when throttle is adjusted to maximum position it probably create an extreme angle (add in a three year old son who frequently ( and rapidly) adjust speed) and this may be enough to create premature fatigue .

I'll include some pics.

Mad151 attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
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image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
Offline Mad151  
#12 Posted : 02 January 2013 08:54:03(UTC)
Mad151

United States   
Joined: 26/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Massachusetts
Sorry about the repeated pics
Mad151 attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
Offline BrandonVA  
#13 Posted : 02 January 2013 21:22:11(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
I've got a 6646 that behaves this way as well. Were you able to fix it by mending the wire? Excellent pictures.

Thanks,

-Brandon
Offline Mad151  
#14 Posted : 03 January 2013 15:02:34(UTC)
Mad151

United States   
Joined: 26/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Massachusetts
I haven't had the chance to work on it yet. I need to go through my bin of wires to find a nice, small flexible piece to patch in. I don't want to solder the original back together just to have it pinched at the solder point. Perhaps I can attach it via another means ( looks as thought that white rectangular clip holds the wire in place so it doesn't fall down onto the contact copper).

I may have to get some smaller solder - I want to use minimal heat and a few heat syncing alligator clips so I'm not overheating any sensitive components. I don't want to creat additional problems.Confused

I'll work on it and send some pictures along.

Any suggestions are welcome.
Offline Chook  
#15 Posted : 03 January 2013 15:16:09(UTC)
Chook

Australia   
Joined: 15/08/2012(UTC)
Posts: 234
Location: Perth, Western Australia.
Hi Mad151, try to obtain some flexible wire. Multimeter cables may be available from (Radioshack?) These are generally rubber or silicon encapsulated with very fine internal wires which are designed to be bent and abused.
It sound like your "assistant" is giving the control a real hiding.BigGrin

Generally the systems that you are dealing with are particularly robust (I could not see any semiconductors in your pictures) so use normal solder with internal resin flux. The only caution is if the slider is retained with plastic supports. Blowing on the joint IMMEDIATELY after you solder it will usually cure this problem. Don't use a wet rag as this will cool the joint too quickly resulting in a weak brittle joint.

Regards.....Chook.
Offline BrandonVA  
#16 Posted : 03 January 2013 15:51:52(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Wow, thanks both. I'm interested in how it turns out. None of my White 6646 transformers ever turn as smoothly as my old 6627 transformers (as Hoffman indicated). I have one I know needs this repair (although I have yet to take it apart), and I feel like as time progresses with my other 6646 I may have to do this repair again. At least the overload protection on the new white transformers is nearly instant, much better than the older 662x units.

Like you, I have some young kids who sometimes move the knob quickly and side to side. This is especially a problem if there is no train on the track for some reason, as they expect the movement and don't get it. I teach them as it goes, but when you are very young you are still learning patience and finesse so it takes time.

-Brandon
Offline Mad151  
#17 Posted : 04 January 2013 04:14:10(UTC)
Mad151

United States   
Joined: 26/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Massachusetts
TRANSPLANT SUCCESSFUL

I FOUND SOME WIRE I THOUGHT WOULD BE SUITABLE. THE INSULATION ON THE NEW WIRE WAS SLIGHTLY THICKER SO I SHAVED OUT THE NOTCH IN THE WHITE PLASTIC RETAINER SLIGHTLY TO FIT THE NEW WIRE DIAMETER.

I HAD TWO OF THE ORIGINAL PINS INTACT SO I USED THEM TO FASTEN THE COVER BACK ON ( the other two snap out while I was drilling them out). I JUST WRAPPED THE SEAM WITH SOME GOOD QUALITY FLEXIBLE ELECTRICAL TAPE. IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE COMPLETELY ORIGINAL FOR ME.

ANYWAY THANKS FOR THE HELP, WE'LL SEE HOW LONG IT LAST UNDER THREE-year-old TESTING!

BRANDONVA, IF YOU DON'T FEEL UP TO IT, SEND IT TO ME AND I'LL TUNE IT UP FOR YOU - cover the shipping that's all - not looking to make money on the repair.

-Mike
Mad151 attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
Offline Mad151  
#18 Posted : 04 January 2013 04:16:38(UTC)
Mad151

United States   
Joined: 26/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Massachusetts
More pics
Mad151 attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
image.jpg
Offline Mad151  
#19 Posted : 04 January 2013 04:26:22(UTC)
Mad151

United States   
Joined: 26/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Massachusetts
HOW DO I ATTACH MULTIPLE DIFFERENT PICS TO THE SAME POSTING. SEEM THAT EVEN THOUGH I CHOOSE A DIFFERENT PIC IN MY FILE IT DUPLICATES WHATEVER I CHOSE FIRST.

Mad151 attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
Offline Mad151  
#20 Posted : 04 January 2013 04:29:19(UTC)
Mad151

United States   
Joined: 26/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Massachusetts
G
Mad151 attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
Offline Chook  
#21 Posted : 04 January 2013 04:36:30(UTC)
Chook

Australia   
Joined: 15/08/2012(UTC)
Posts: 234
Location: Perth, Western Australia.
Hi Mike. Did your replacement red wire have many wires or just one solid one?
The "many wires" option (15 or so within the same insulation) will give you a much longer life than a single solid one and this is the type that I was suggesting previously. In your favour you have clamped the cable so that the stress is on the insulated part of the wire and not the soldered joint.

Good luck........Chook.
Offline BrandonVA  
#22 Posted : 04 January 2013 15:51:43(UTC)
BrandonVA

United States   
Joined: 09/12/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2,533
Location: VA
Originally Posted by: Mad151 Go to Quoted Post
TRANSPLANT SUCCESSFUL

BRANDONVA, IF YOU DON'T FEEL UP TO IT, SEND IT TO ME AND I'LL TUNE IT UP FOR YOU - cover the shipping that's all - not looking to make money on the repair.

-Mike


Mike,

Thank you for the offer, I'll let you know. You've given us such good pictures, I don't think it should be too much of a problem to give it a go. I just have to get around it to, right now the 6646 I have in this state is a spare...but plans to do things, would help to get this one running again. Glad it worked out!

-Brandon
Offline Mad151  
#23 Posted : 06 January 2013 18:40:03(UTC)
Mad151

United States   
Joined: 26/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 12
Location: Massachusetts
Originally Posted by: Chook Go to Quoted Post
Hi Mike. Did your replacement red wire have many wires or just one solid one?
The "many wires" option (15 or so within the same insulation) will give you a much longer life than a single solid one and this is the type that I was suggesting previously. In your favour you have clamped the cable so that the stress is on the insulated part of the wire and not the soldered joint.

Good luck........Chook.



I did not use a solid wire. It was twisted multi strand. Retainer placed mid wire on insulation not the soldered connection.

We'll see how it holds up next year.

Thanks for the info.
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