 Joined: 27/11/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,218 Location: Middle of the US
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On my new layout I have a few tracks that will be hidden and I will want to determine when a train is getting close to the end of the track so it doesn't hit the bumper. I am running my layout using the Mobile Station. I was planning on simply cutting one of the outer rails and making an isolated track and then wiring a small light bulb between the broken track and the center rail. When a wheelset rolls over the isolated track the circuit will be completed and the light bulb will turn on and I will know that the track is occupied.
I have a couple questions concerning this.
1) Will this cause any problem with the Mobile Station?
2) What is the current flowing through the rails with the Mobile station?
3) What kind of LED / Light bulb and circuit could I use that would take the current from the track and reduce it so that the bulb wouldn't burn out and it wouldn't impact train performance.
4) And finally, if I only use say 2 or 3 of these circuits will that cause current drain that would be significant enough to cause any performance problems?
Thanks for the help on this.
Chris
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,442
Location: DE-NW
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The Mobile Station can deliver 1200 mA or 1900 mA (depends on the version) to the track.
An LED consumes 20 mA (normal LED) or 2 mA (low-current LED), so this should have no impact.
Light bulbs typically consume 20 mA through 100 mA, depending on their type.
Three LEDs won't have an impact.
When using LEDs: you need at least a diode to protect the LED; use a bridge rectifier for flicker-free LED light; you need a resistor (value depends on the type of LED used). 1000 Ohm (1k) and 0.5 W is a good value for a standard LED (20 mA).
With light bulbs no diodes or rectifiers are needed; try light bulbs for 24 V with low current. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS  |
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 Joined: 01/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 7,452 Location: Scotland
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If you use the Marklin contact track and connect a bulb (ordinary type bulb for lighting buildings etc will do) when the loco runs through the track the bulb will light then go out again and you can stop the loco. This way you do not have to have bulbs constantly on. This will stop the loco hitting the bumper but you would need to remember that the track is occupied.
I use this for trains in tunnels so I know which part of the tunnel the train has reached.
dave |
Take care I like Marklin and will defend the worlds greatest model rail manufacturer. |
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Joined: 19/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 207
Location: Durango, Colorado
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you might be interested in this post https://www.marklin-user...aspx?g=posts&t=16403 . I believe Martin has the system functioning. I haven't tried it as I was already building over hidden track when I first learned about it - if I were starting at the beginning, I would definitely try it out. Another possibility is wireless control so you can walk around to the area in question - this is what I may do if I can find an economical, satisfactory system for running Marklin locos wirelessly .
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Joined: 27/11/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,218 Location: Middle of the US
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Everyone thanks for your response. I think I am going to go the LED route. Tom is there a schematic which shows how I should wire the LED, diode, resistor and bridge rectifier together? My guess is I will visit my local Radio Shack to find the parts. Thanks again everyone. Chris H0 wrote:The Mobile Station can deliver 1200 mA or 1900 mA (depends on the version) to the track.
An LED consumes 20 mA (normal LED) or 2 mA (low-current LED), so this should have no impact.
Light bulbs typically consume 20 mA through 100 mA, depending on their type.
Three LEDs won't have an impact.
When using LEDs: you need at least a diode to protect the LED; use a bridge rectifier for flicker-free LED light; you need a resistor (value depends on the type of LED used). 1000 Ohm (1k) and 0.5 W is a good value for a standard LED (20 mA).
With light bulbs no diodes or rectifiers are needed; try light bulbs for 24 V with low current.
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Joined: 16/02/2004(UTC)
Posts: 15,442
Location: DE-NW
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Chris6382chris wrote:Tom is there a schematic which shows how I should wire the LED, diode, resistor and bridge rectifier together? Here is one: http://www.standlicht.rn.../images/SchaltplanAA.gifLeave away C1 and R6. B1 is the bridge rectifier - A is plus, B is minus. |
Regards Tom --- "In all of the gauges, we particularly emphasize a high level of quality, the best possible fidelity to the prototype, and absolute precision. You will see that in all of our products." (from Märklin New Items Brochure 2015, page 1) ROFLBTCUTS |
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Joined: 27/11/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,218 Location: Middle of the US
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Thanks Tom, I will give this a try.
Chris
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Joined: 27/11/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,218 Location: Middle of the US
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I know it has been a while since I posted on this topic but I am finally building my new layout and am ready to make some contact tracks and wire the LEDs up. Using the method I described above, I am simply going to wire the LED with the correct resistor to the contact track I have made. If I do not include a bridge rectifier will I really get alot of flicker in the LED?
Thanks for the help.
Chris
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Joined: 24/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 99
Location: ,
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I just need space, money and time - That's all |
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Joined: 08/01/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,218 Location: Shady Shores, TX - USA
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Originally Posted by: Chris6382chris  I know it has been a while since I posted on this topic but I am finally building my new layout and am ready to make some contact tracks and wire the LEDs up. Using the method I described above, I am simply going to wire the LED with the correct resistor to the contact track I have made. If I do not include a bridge rectifier will I really get alot of flicker in the LED?
Thanks for the help.
Chris You can get a small bridge rectifier chip form a good electronic shop. It will cost less maybe as low as 50 cents and will be smaller than 4 diodes. |
DT
Now powered by ECoS II unit#2, RocRail
era - some time in the future when the space time continuum is disrupted and ICE 3 Trains run on the same rails as the Adler and BR18's. |
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 Joined: 23/02/2005(UTC) Posts: 800
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Originally Posted by: Chris6382chris If I do not include a bridge rectifier will I really get alot of flicker in the LED?
Chris Hi, You will get flickering. Now, it's up to you to decide if it is really annoying. The best is to test it and make up your mind. Nevertheless, if you don't use a bridge rectifier, you should protect the LED with a diode, for reliability. So, why not use a bridge rectifier? It's hardly more expensive. (As H0 said, a capacitor is not needed.) Fred
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Joined: 19/12/2008(UTC)
Posts: 207
Location: Durango, Colorado
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Joined: 27/11/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,218 Location: Middle of the US
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Originally Posted by: dntower85 Originally Posted by: Chris6382chris I know it has been a while since I posted on this topic but I am finally building my new layout and am ready to make some contact tracks and wire the LEDs up. Using the method I described above, I am simply going to wire the LED with the correct resistor to the contact track I have made. If I do not include a bridge rectifier will I really get alot of flicker in the LED?
Thanks for the help.
Chris You can get a small bridge rectifier chip form a good electronic shop. It will cost less maybe as low as 50 cents and will be smaller than 4 diodes. Ok, so a bridge rectifier, resistor and LED. The bridge rectifiers I have seen have multiple prongs, how do I wire that? I mean I know how to wire a resistor and LED together and to the track but where does the bridge rectifier fit in? I am not great on reading schematics so I apologize for the ignorance and thanks for the help. Chris
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Joined: 23/02/2005(UTC) Posts: 800
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Joined: 27/11/2009(UTC) Posts: 1,218 Location: Middle of the US
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Good news, went to radio shack got the parts I needed and I know have my first contact track working. Thanks for the info everyone.
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