Joined: 19/11/2002(UTC) Posts: 378 Location: Leuven, Belgiium
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Hi friends, Here I am again with another question that really puzzles me: the problem of the third rail [:o)] when constructing a service pit between the rails. The same for the ash collectors... I have tried to fully make them in C-rails, and, apart from the colors, that at present are quite rude, they are ok with me. But what with the third rail ? I used a banjo string (you know, the instrument !) of diameter 0,25mm. It works !! I drilled two holes close to the first puko that remains, and 'sutured' the wire across. Due to its strenght, it remains in place. See pics : with flashlight almost invisible, but with daily light you can still see the thin wire. I think it is better than the Faller puko's that they deliver with their service pits. But I was wondering if some of you might have other solutions ? I want an open pit, as is the case in the locdepots, so grids won't do... Any other ideas ?  Here exactly the same, but wiht flashlight illumination :  Thanks, Bob
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Joined: 16/07/2002(UTC) Posts: 1,575 Location: DeSoto (Dallas area), TX
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That look great! Now just cover everyihing with 'ash' and what a good look you will have!  |
The McLae IB digital, DB, OBB, SBB epII-V Providing a home for little lost 'Gators |
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Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY
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Your service pit looks just nice, Bob - congratulations [:p] !!! What a great idea of yours. The only thing "missing" is more dirt, coal dust and grease ...  Thanks for the pictures, John |
I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators. AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only. CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ... Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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Joined: 09/04/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,278 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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Giday, really cool service pit mate.Very clever the banjo string and looks good too.As John said,needs some filth.How did you cut the guts of the C Track out please,and would love too see a piccy when it's finished on the layout.Keep up the good work.
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Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec
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Great idea, Bob.
I was just about to think to solve that problem as well. I have bought a Walthers ash pit and I also have intended inspection pits for my engine servicing area. Now I have the solution !
Many thanks for sharing.
Pierre.
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Joined: 06/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 913 Location: The Central Coast
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Thanks for the pictures Bob,very nice work |
worse things happen at sea |
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Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,162 Location: Portugal
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Great, great idea.... I think this is something to copy...[}:)]
Luis
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Joined: 12/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 2,528 Location: Groton, Connecticut
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Excellent solution. I have been pondering how accomplish the same thing. In order to make the string disappear, have you tried blackening it so it doesn't show up against the pit walls? Ira |
Building German Era I-II layout(Mk IIIc).  |
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Joined: 22/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,836 Location: Trumbull, CT
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Very nice job indeed!.. You can add a new product to the Marklin line. I'm sure you applied for a design patent? |
Stephen(USA) ETE,NMRA,MEA |
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Joined: 19/11/2002(UTC) Posts: 378 Location: Leuven, Belgiium
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Thanks all for your reactions and comments. Makes me feel I am on a good track  . Now, a few reflections on your individual questions : I am setting up a small batch production for my depot. You may have noticed here and there in this forum of these plans (see turntable). I plan a 20 stand round house, but the job appears a little too big to do it for each rail. In reality, they were present all over the rail lenght [:(]. I will reflect on this. As to the the blackening, Ira, I have considered it, but I still have no real good solution to that. In half the cases, the blackening does not work fine. I am just wondering how Marklin does such a nice job with their M-rails and puko's... Any good advice ? Btw, the string you see in the pic is from an old banjo, with the steel almost black from age. Just bought new strings in a music shop, and, oh boy, what a shiny thing !! Definite good advice needed for that one ! As to the dirt, I am somewhat disappointed too. I tried to give it some dirt, but apparently not enough  . I agree too. One comment however, the two pics are the same unit (just only built one so far). The second pic is not realistic, due to the excessive light from the flashlight. Anyway, is there someone who can give me advise for oil traces ? They should look a bit shiny, with eventual a trace of cupper. The rails were cut with the small table dicing saw from Proxxon (FSK/E) that I use for cutting all my C-rails to fit loose ends. The dicing saw allows to regulate the height of the saw sticking out of the table. What you do is the following: use the guide to position the rail over the saw where you want to cut. I place the rail upside down. Then power the unit and gently start levitating the saw till it starts cutting. Continue until about 4 mm of the spinning saw becomes visible. Then I slide the rail along the guide to proceed with the requested lenght. In what I have shown, I stopped at both ends of the rails. This makes the unit solid for handling. For the ash pits, I have cut two rails in one long go. The ash pit needs to have about two loc lengths. I did not make pics yet , but promise to give them later. So far my story. To be continued... Yours, Bob
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Joined: 12/05/2005(UTC) Posts: 1,908 Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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Excellent. This forum is just sooo great! |
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Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec
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Thanks for all this valuable information.
For oil, try a mix of Humbrol #85 with some drops of #55.
Pierre.
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Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,697 Location: United Kingdom
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Excellent job.  |
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy. |
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Joined: 19/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 162 Location: ,
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Looks absolutly great and fine tooling too. I will make one to inside my E-lok shed. Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by stephenbb <br />Very nice job indeed!.. You can add a new product to the Marklin line. I'm sure you applied for a design patent?
I agree[:p] |
IB; C-track; DSB and SBB ep. III-V |
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Joined: 09/04/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,278 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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steamfriend,thanks! ....so far story ! To be continued.....
This is good, and I wait ; for continued................
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Joined: 19/11/2002(UTC) Posts: 378 Location: Leuven, Belgiium
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Hi all !  Took me some time to make some progress... Not finished yet , but thought I might give you some update on the progress : These pics are on the actual ashpit itself and the two rails for service. The ashes get collected in the central pit, and are taken out by a crane when filled. The pits should be filled with water, to immediately damp the hot cinders. I give a pic of the bottom view (without the pit) to give an idea of the mechanical construction. Plasticcard an recuperation parts are used here. Made the stairs myself from 2mm thick plastic.  view on the remains of the original C-tracks...  One stadium further : with pit in plasticcard.  And the actual stadium. I need to cover the small 'metal' bridges with some gridded plates, that will also take the middle rail. Not completely sure how to tackle this, but I'm close.  Hope to be able to report soon on how I succeeded in doing that [:p]. Pray for me  Cheers, Bob
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Joined: 09/04/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,278 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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AB FAB mate.Looks just so good!
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Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,162 Location: Portugal
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Congrats, steamfriend it is fabulous! I will definitely copy this, the ultimate form of flattery  Luis
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Joined: 19/12/2003(UTC) Posts: 1,205 Location: Swindon, Wiltshire
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All,
Has anyone ever considered a solution that involves some sort of "sliding stud"?
The idea being that you could have a magnet that attaches itself to the current pickup on the loco, and as the loco moves across the pit, it would drag this "thing" along with it. And the "thing" is fed with power via a very thin wire which could be more easily concealed.
Having said that, the solution presented here is very good, and I'm sure it will work, especially if the installation is set back a bit from the front of the layout - well done! |
Richard |
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Joined: 12/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 2,528 Location: Groton, Connecticut
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I'm duly impressed. Like Luis I believe I will copy your idea when I get that far with my layout. Ira |
Building German Era I-II layout(Mk IIIc).  |
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Joined: 19/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 162 Location: ,
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It looks really good. Crossing fingers for the next pocess in your project. Stig |
IB; C-track; DSB and SBB ep. III-V |
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Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec
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Really amazing !
Congratulations Bob. It is a very high quality job.
Pierre.
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Joined: 06/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 291 Location: ,
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Marvellous job. Congrats! |
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Joined: 09/04/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,278 Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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Giday Bob, how did you cut the track? It is cetainly a nice sharp cut.
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Joined: 19/11/2002(UTC) Posts: 378 Location: Leuven, Belgiium
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Hi Rowan, I have explained in an earlier answer how the cuts are made (25/4/06). I copy it here again : Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:The rails were cut with the small table dicing saw from Proxxon (FSK/E) that I use for cutting all my C-rails to fit loose ends. The dicing saw allows to regulate the height of the saw sticking out of the table. What you do is the following: use the guide to position the rail over the saw where you want to cut. I place the rail upside down. Then power the unit and gently start levitating the saw till it starts cutting. Continue until about 4 mm of the spinning saw becomes visible. Then I slide the rail along the guide to proceed with the requested lenght. In what I have shown, I stopped at both ends of the rails. This makes the unit solid for handling. For the ash pits, I have cut two rails in one long go. The ash pit needs to have about two loc lengths. I did not make pics yet , but promise to give them later. For the dicing saw, go to http://www.proxxon.com/, go to any region, select your language, select MICROMOT tools, then go for the table-top tools, and search for the table top dicing saw FSK/E. Marvellous machine ! It costs about the price of a new loco, but personally I think the investmest is worth it ! I only use C-tracks of the longest type. When I have to fit loose ends, I just cut the track with the saw, use some instant glue and some soldering to restore the connection at the bottom. Saved many Euros or Dollars in buying the expensive short tracks to make your loose end fit !   . Hope it helps ! Only thing : you have to carefully watch your fingers[}:)] Best wishes, Bob PS: I finished my job on the ashpits and just need a few moments to make my final report for you all (pics and the like). Stay tuned[:p]
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Joined: 19/11/2002(UTC) Posts: 378 Location: Leuven, Belgiium
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Hi all ! This is my last picture set for the time being. I will stop working on the pits in favour of other jobs on my layout... They need now to be built-in, and be furher finished with ashes, 'water', coal and coal/grease dust. Guess this will take me several months, since it goes together with all the rest. (in the mean time, I will need to continue on my turnable (see other thread), but am still awaiting the fine scale profiles. So here are my final pics : finished with third rail ! Use guitar wire and pieces of metal grid plates (Weinert) for the 'bridges'  A look into the big ashpit : need to fill it with ashes, and water  So much nicer with a loc ready to throw its ashes...  Final pic : a close up top view....  Thanks for all the comments, friends. I am glad you like it ! Best wishes, Bob
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 1 user liked this useful post by steamfriend
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Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec
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Fantastic ! You should get a degree in scratchbuilding !
Pierre.
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Joined: 12/01/2003(UTC) Posts: 2,528 Location: Groton, Connecticut
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Excellent work. I will certainly copy you when I am to that point on my layout, if you don't mind. Ira |
Building German Era I-II layout(Mk IIIc).  |
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Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY
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Wow ... a true masterpiece, looks so realistic - congratulations, Bob [:p][:p][:p] |
I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators. AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only. CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ... Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec
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Hello Bob,
I am about to start the construction of my Walthers roundhouses which are equipped with inspection pits. So I am really interested in using your technique for the third rail over those pits.
Can you tell me the exact reference of the banjo string that you used especially the material ?
Thanks.
Pierre.
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Joined: 19/12/2003(UTC) Posts: 1,205 Location: Swindon, Wiltshire
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by PierreGILLARD <br />...Can you tell me the exact reference of the banjo string that you used especially the material? ...
Stay clear of the nylon ones; I had real trouble making it work with those. |
Richard |
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Joined: 19/11/2002(UTC) Posts: 378 Location: Leuven, Belgiium
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Thanks all for the nice compliments  ! Code:I am about to start the construction of my Walthers roundhouses which are equipped with inspection pits. So I am really interested in using your technique for the third rail over those pits.
Can you tell me the exact reference of the banjo string that you used especially the material ?
Pierre, the strings I used are the following : D'Addario Guitar strings, PL010. Acoustic of electric plain steel (indeed, no nylon rugaurer [}:)]). Diameter is 0.25 mm for E B and G strings. Made in USA (!) (J. D'Addario and Company, PO Box 290, Farmingdale, NY 11735. I just bought them at my local music shop. I drill four 0,4 mm holes, two at each side of the middle rail, and 'suture' one end in place. I make a loop over the bar of the middle rail, making sure there is firm contact. You can really pull the string. The two turns I make like that seem OK. I do the same at the other end of the pit, four holes, and firmly pull the string through one hole, bend it, and 'suture' it at that side too. At this stage, make sure there is quite some tension ! It works fine [:p]. Before fitting the wires, I had them blackened in the kind of chemical blackening procedure (CARR'S Metal Black - toxic solution based on Selenium dioxide - never understood how it works). Wish you good luck ! Bob (Btw : I live in Leuven, since you were asking, Pierre - always welcome !)
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Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec
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Thanks for the information, Bob.
I will certainly give you a visit one day because Leuven is a beautiful city ... and I am sure that as a Belgian you must have a good beer selection !
Pierre.
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Joined: 19/10/2005(UTC) Posts: 393 Location: Aarhus C, DK
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Märklin C-tracks, Mobile Station, Danish Ep 4 |
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Joined: 19/11/2002(UTC) Posts: 378 Location: Leuven, Belgiium
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Hi Michael, Thanks for the interesting pictures. The system that you show was indeed used for smaller locdepots. This is what the well known Faller kit models. Since my layout is mainly a locdepot, with something like 30 machines, I thought it was justified to go for the bigger version. It was in use in many German depots, and should officially be convered with a huge lid. This lid was metal, and could be shifted on rails. Some depots had the lid removed permanently. I modeled that version, since it has more to show   Thanks anyway for the pics - you cannot believe how difficult it was for me to find good pics of ashpits... in fact, I still have none, so my pits are partially guess, partial true... Bob
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Joined: 09/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,346 Location: Longueuil, Quebec
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by steamfriend <br />(...) so my pits are partially guess, partial true...
Bob
... but totally believable ! Pierre.
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