 Joined: 23/11/2008(UTC) Posts: 225 Location: Herning in Denmark
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Do any know the trick, so I can solder wire to a normal K track
Steff |
Best regards
Jørgen St. from Herning in DK
H0 / Märklin K track / CS3+ / full digital / Epoke III +/- |
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Joined: 06/10/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,345
Location: ,
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I don't know if K track uses separate rail joiners like M track did, but if so you can make the connection to the rails by unclipping them and soldering the wire to them before refitting it. I'm not sure about the contact studs - you might have to do something like scraping plastic away underneath to find the metal to solder to. You can repair the damage with modelling putty, or it'll probably be hidden after you ballast and weather the track. |
Matt from Wales.
When you pay Range Rover prices, don't accept Lada quality |
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 Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC) Posts: 2,578 Location: Sweden
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The contact figners that connect the center studs between the track pieces can easily be soldered with standard solder. No need for scraping plastic or anything
For the actual rails I think it is more difficult, but I haven't tried.
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Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC)
Posts: 11,165
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To connect "brown" to the rails themselves, solder the wire to the rail joints - the easiest way. It is possible to solder directly to the rails themselves with a good scraping & using acid solder flux, but the rail joiners are much easier. |
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service...
He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb] |
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Joined: 23/11/2008(UTC) Posts: 225 Location: Herning in Denmark
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Brown to the rail joints - Do You mean the outer tracks, where it is possible to solder. And for the center You will recommend buy Märklin 7504 Steff  |
Best regards
Jørgen St. from Herning in DK
H0 / Märklin K track / CS3+ / full digital / Epoke III +/- |
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Joined: 01/02/2008(UTC)
Posts: 414
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
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I think Juhan meant these Steff   It is easier to solder to the rail joiners than it is to solder to the rail. It also means that you dont melt the plastic sleepers accidentally as you should remover the joiners from the track when you solder. |
Ep IV / V Marklin Layout
6 track dead end station, twin track loop, 4 track through station.
Under construction. |
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Joined: 04/11/2006(UTC)
Posts: 2,652
Location: New Zealand
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Lord Macca
New Zealand branch of Clan Donald.
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 Joined: 21/10/2004(UTC) Posts: 31,689 Location: United Kingdom
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Hi and welcome to the forum, Steff. |
Large Marklinist 3- Rails Layout with CS2/MS2/Boosters/C-track/favorites Electric class E03/BR103, E18/E118, E94, Crocodiles/Steam BR01, BR03, BR05, BR23, BR44, BR50, Big Boy. |
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Joined: 09/04/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,278
Location: Brisbane, Queensland
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Macfire has given you two good threads. The only thing I would emphasise is the the area you solder must be clean; as in really , really CLEAN.
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Joined: 12/08/2006(UTC)
Posts: 9,277
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What you shall do by soldering at K-tracks,is by doing like this:
For the rail,i use 2 pieces of 7500 and connecting it or and solder at it on the copper-metal.
For the centre,i use clips under K-tracks and solder on it.
If you have undergrounds tracksstanding-line,you can using powerfeeder 7504 and just connecting at it.
If you want to use 7500 in the visuell tracks,you can bending 7500 slighting down and using ballast to covered over it.
If you are using corkunderlay...
Goofy |
H0
DCC = Digital Command Control
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Joined: 23/11/2008(UTC) Posts: 225 Location: Herning in Denmark
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To all who had tried to help me - thank You How can You find time to do it ........ Steff My next item will be automatic block system just for one direction by use of brake moduls from Viessmann / which forum is for this ?? |
Best regards
Jørgen St. from Herning in DK
H0 / Märklin K track / CS3+ / full digital / Epoke III +/- |
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