Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark
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Hi
I am getting fed up with my old soldering station. It is a Weller one temparature only station, iron with magnetic field that clicks the heating on-off. Although I clean the tip it sometimes surprises me the time it takes to melt two thin wires together ie.e holding the tip on the spot too long. I have no idea what the tip temparature is. Nowadays the stations have selectable temp. settings. I will be looking for one, but what temp. range should I select for MMR work (mainly decoders, leds and so on)?
Any suggestions - thank you.
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Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL  |
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Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Caplin <br />Hi
I am getting fed up with my old soldering station. It is a Weller one temparature only station, iron with magnetic field that clicks the heating on-off. Although I clean the tip it sometimes surprises me the time it takes to melt two thin wires together ie.e holding the tip on the spot too long. I have no idea what the tip temparature is. Nowadays the stations have selectable temp. settings. I will be looking for one, but what temp. range should I select for MMR work (mainly decoders, leds and so on)?
Any suggestions - thank you.
I havefound that sometimes a new tip works wonders.
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Joined: 22/10/2003(UTC) Posts: 376 Location: blankenberge,
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soldering on prints or wires abt 320°C should be enough. Soldering wires on rails 420°C! why? heats the spot where to solder quicker so heatspread is less. This way your plastic beams don't melt. |
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Joined: 25/07/2001(UTC) Posts: 11,165
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I have digitally controlled Velleman soldering station and use about 320-450 degrees while soldering, depending on the tip used... Sometimes you want a quick heatup of a very small spot or a longer period for a larger spot with lots of lead flowing... Type of tip, heat, soldering area and type of wire - all make a difference on what temperature to use... |
Juhan - "Webmaster", at your service... He who asks a question is a fool for five minutes. He who does not ask a question remains a fool forever. [Old Chinese Proverb] |
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Joined: 10/11/2006(UTC) Posts: 455 Location: Pacific Ocean
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If it's any help, I would also recommend one of these type cleaners for anyone doing more than a couple joints at a time. It does the best job on keeping the tip clean which makes for better faster joints. Also lasts forever. http://www.hmcelectronic...cripts/product/0460-0001-George
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Joined: 20/07/2007(UTC) Posts: 809 Location: Leopold, Victoria
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Thanks George, great link. |
Legless Era's 1 to 111,C track,k track |
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Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark
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Thanks for the link. That cleaner looks great. I found the Danish company that represents Hakko, but they deal only with registered firms - no sale for privat persons. [:(!][:(!][xx(] |
Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL  |
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Joined: 10/02/2004(UTC) Posts: 2,162 Location: Portugal
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I use the Viessmann soldering station for normal MRR electronic work.
When I'm doing my hifi stuff, I sometimes use something bigger.
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Joined: 27/08/2005(UTC) Posts: 11,071 Location: Murrumba Downs QLD
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Caplin <br />Thanks for the link. That cleaner looks great. I found the Danish company that represents Hakko, but they deal only with registered firms - no sale for privat persons. [:(!][:(!][xx(]
Benny, I got one similar at Dick Smiths electronics. Most electronic supply shops should have them. Nev |
NOt wearing the Pink Pinny, which is hard to see and now I have a white Pinny which also is hard to see against MY pure white Skin Still have 2 new shiny tin Hips that is badly in Need of Repair matching rusting tin shoulders and a hose pipe on the aorta Junior member of the Banana Club, a reformist and an old Goat with a Bad memory, loafing around |
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Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC) Posts: 880 Location: Augusta, GA USA
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I use a local electronics store that has everything. I don't know if they ship international but they have various solder guns and the metal cleaners. About 5 for $10 I think. I bought a variable solder station from them in the store for about $30. www.youdoitelectronics.comEric
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Joined: 15/10/2006(UTC) Posts: 558 Location: ,
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I got my temperature controller soldering at Dick Smiths as well
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,771 Location: New Zealand
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Joined: 26/03/2006(UTC) Posts: 1,423 Location: Brisbane, QLD
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The Märklin Soldering Station 70910 is actually a surprisingly good unit. It is a re-badged unit also sold by Veissmann as #7822. One of the big German hobby electronics chains also re-badged it (can't remember the name...[:I]).
It has up to 3 pre-set temperatures with digital control (no swapping tips), and seems nice and stable.
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Cheers, Damon |
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Joined: 18/06/2003(UTC) Posts: 3,023 Location: Chennai, Tamil Nadu, INDIA
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Hi All,
For MMR and other hobby reloated work, what is the recommeded wattage? Is a iron better that a soldering station? Is it advisable to obtain a non-temperatre controlled system vs. a temperatre controlled one?
How is Velleman compared to Weller systems?
Cheers, Ranjit |
Modelling in HO Scale - Era III & IV. K+M Track, Analogue + Digital _____________________________________________________________________________
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"If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need" - Marcus Tullius Cicero "Nothing is as powerful as an idea whose time has come" - Victor Marie Hugo "If you can dream it, you can do it" - Walt Disney |
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Joined: 21/01/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,273
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Always use a temperature controlled one for electronics (decoders etc)! It is a lot safer (for your electronics) and easier to work with.
Wattage depends on what you want to solder. I use a 30W weller solder station which is ok for small electronics but it is more difficult to eg. easily solder big metal areas like catenary.
Like already said the tip to be used is also important. While a very small needle like tip might seem easy to solder small things like wires to a decoder, keep in mind that such a small area can not transfer a lot of heat. You will need to heat up the solder/wires/pcbs longer giving the heat time to spread and thus more risk of damaging/melting things nearby. Therefore use a relatively big tip, for me the screwdriver shaped ones work best.
Bert
Bert
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Joined: 01/03/2008(UTC) Posts: 2,883 Location: South Western France
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hello Hello, IMHO, if you have decided for the temperature controlled version, take the highest wattage you can. This way your solder joints will be more uniform and for larger ones, you won't have to wait a long time to get the parts to the right temperature. Needless to say, use the solder as the heatsink to transfer heat to the pieces, and therefore, the more wattage you have at your disposal, the faster you can work, avoiding oxidation as much as possible. My two pennies |
Jacques Vuye aka Dr.Eisenbahn Once a vandal, learned to be better and had great success! |
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Joined: 16/08/2006(UTC) Posts: 5,382 Location: Akershus, Norway
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I use the Märklin Soldering Station 70910. I am very happy with it, and it has a nice price.
Normally I set the temperature to 300 degrees. |
Best regards Svein, Norway grumpy old sod
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Joined: 01/01/2007(UTC) Posts: 643 Location: Alberta
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A little tip to help your soldering. When you place the iron on the items to be soldered try to apply a small amount of solder into the gap between the solder iron tip and the item. This creates a solder bridge that really helps with the heat transfer. Keeping your tip clean really important. Keep it tinned with extra solder when it is idle. Using the right size tip and right size solder will also help.
Cheers... Darren
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