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Offline marklinologos  
#1 Posted : 23 September 2008 20:43:52(UTC)
marklinologos

Greece   
Joined: 07/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 145
Location: ATHENS,
Hi!

Could you please advise what kind of paints we can use for painting the mountains. The mountains will be construct with combination of wood and plaster.

Thanks
Keep Marklin away from China
Offline rschaffr  
#2 Posted : 23 September 2008 20:49:57(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,181
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
I use Woodlands Scenic. I use Burnt Umber diluted 2:1 first hitting highlights, then Yellow Ocher diluted 2:1 for mor highlights, then wash it with Black that has been diluted 8:1. Results can be seen here [image]http://www.sem-co.com/%7Erschaffr/trains/era_iii/misc/castle03.jpg[/image].

I might suggest you try a product called "Sculptamold" instead of plaster. It is a paper based product similar to a dense paper mache. I was using plaster and changed over. i like the texture of the Sculptamold better.
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline marklinologos  
#3 Posted : 23 September 2008 21:12:23(UTC)
marklinologos

Greece   
Joined: 07/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 145
Location: ATHENS,
thanks for your sugestion...Very good result!! do you know any details for this product e-shop to buy and price. Is the first time I listen that!
Keep Marklin away from China
Offline rschaffr  
#4 Posted : 23 September 2008 22:30:26(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,181
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
John: I googled Sculptamold and got over 7000 results. Perhaps you could find a dealer in Greece. Our localt Arts/Crafts stored carry it, also one of the Model Railroad stored I frequent (Nicholas Smith) carries it.
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline rhtastro  
#5 Posted : 23 September 2008 22:51:49(UTC)
rhtastro

United States   
Joined: 19/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 2,835
Location: Northern California,
I use a latex type paint as well as a latex glue for my scenery. It's easy to work with and can be made up in many colors.

Also, the paint brushes wash out with water. No toxic solvents needed in the paint or needed for rinsing brushes. All available at local hardware stores here in the US or the equivalent in Greece.

Cheers, Bob
Robert's trains insured by Colt 45--Marklin Club of NorCal, Founder and Sole Member--- Robert's photos may be used as public domain-all copyrights waved
"All tyranny needs to gain a foothold is for people of good conscience to remain silent"-T.Jefferson
Offline monster134  
#6 Posted : 24 September 2008 00:08:47(UTC)
monster134

South Africa   
Joined: 23/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 705
Location: ,
Normal good old fashioned acrylic paint here.I found this product called Americana.Straight forward acrylic paint,but very nice and thick.I dilute this 1 to 10 and it will cover anything.Also a huge range of colors.I went with light cinnamon for my mountains,with some burnt sienna highlights,slate gray and some buttermilk white.

If you weather wood,this buttermilk white with burnt umber iron ocide powder afterwards,gives a nice realistic look.
UserPostedImage

As for what material to use....i still prefer plaster.I reckon if you are going to cover your mountains with growth,go the sculptamould or similar product way.

I want to see rock and stone and i love the roughness plaster gives.I do very little cover on my mountains.I have planted trees the last week or so,and with an uncovered mountain,the trees work well.

Horses for courses.
If at any stage in the defusing of a bomb,you should see a bomb technician running,try your utmost best to keep up with him-Army magazine of preventative action.
Offline rschaffr  
#7 Posted : 24 September 2008 00:14:03(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,181
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
Actually, I was dissatisfied with the plaster since it came out so smooth. The sculptamold gives a rougher texture. In my picture above, the foreground of the hill is plaster, and the area immediately around the castle ruins and to the right side of the picture is sculptamold. Unless, of course, you use a molding form for your plaster. I have tried that also.
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline monster134  
#8 Posted : 24 September 2008 00:57:23(UTC)
monster134

South Africa   
Joined: 23/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 705
Location: ,
I use a finishing plaster called Rhinolight.What i do is i mix it in different thickness.The base layer being thin,almost like porridgebiggrin

I drag newspaper through it and cover the styrene base.Nice thing about this is,the styrene base shape isnt set in stone,by pulling the newspaper or folding it you can create crevices and folds.

When its dry,i mix the plaster medium thickness.You must be able to pick it up in your hand.I use a beeeeeeeeg paintbrush and "paint" this thick plaster on.Guy that taught me this,calls this prodding.Its just to texture the plaster.You twist and glide the brush and it makes the most awesome shapes.
UserPostedImage


If i want rocks,i use the plaster again.Very very thick.Almost dry pieces in it still.Now you can hold it ni your hand and shape it.Like putty.This i slap on in huge wallops,all over the place,and this i carve with a credit card into rock shapes.
UserPostedImage
UserPostedImage


I still do this here and there,but now that i discovered the broken ceiling board,it will probably just be used in small places like these...
UserPostedImage
UserPostedImage

But just check what this ceiling board does.I just took these now quickly.I LOVE it.
UserPostedImage
UserPostedImage
UserPostedImage

But obviously,if you cover the mountains,itnot neccesary for this whole sequince.It is a lot of work.I hate the carving bit.You need to file the edges smooth when its dry.It takes forever.
If at any stage in the defusing of a bomb,you should see a bomb technician running,try your utmost best to keep up with him-Army magazine of preventative action.
Offline sudibarba  
#9 Posted : 24 September 2008 04:22:20(UTC)
sudibarba

United States   
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC)
Posts: 880
Location: Augusta, GA USA
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by rschaffr
<br />I use Woodlands Scenic. I use Burnt Umber diluted 2:1 first hitting highlights, then Yellow Ocher diluted 2:1 for mor highlights, then wash it with Black that has been diluted 8:1. Results can be seen here [image]http://www.sem-co.com/%7Erschaffr/trains/era_iii/misc/castle03.jpg[/image].

I might suggest you try a product called "Sculptamold" instead of plaster. It is a paper based product similar to a dense paper mache. I was using plaster and changed over. i like the texture of the Sculptamold better.


Ron,
I happened to get a taxidermy catalogue today probably because I am on Cabellas' mailing list. Anyway, go to www.vandykestaxidermy.com and put part # BR-101692 in the search slot on the top right. Looks like the same kind of stuff used for bases over wire mesh for mountings. $9.99 for 10 lbs - $36.99 for 50 lbs. 50 lbs sounds like a lot.
Eric
Offline rschaffr  
#10 Posted : 24 September 2008 06:03:10(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,181
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
Eric. That stuff looks interesting. I may get some and try it for the next mountain I build. This is the stuff I used: http://www.misterart.com...96/Amaco-Sculptamold.htm
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline Rowan  
#11 Posted : 24 September 2008 12:13:20(UTC)
Rowan


Joined: 09/04/2006(UTC)
Posts: 1,278
Location: Brisbane, Queensland

A photo feast of scenery and informatuion. Cool!

Smile
Offline monster134  
#12 Posted : 24 September 2008 13:26:21(UTC)
monster134

South Africa   
Joined: 23/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 705
Location: ,
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by rschaffr
<br />Eric. That stuff looks interesting. I may get some and try it for the next mountain I build. This is the stuff I used: http://www.misterart.com...96/Amaco-Sculptamold.htm


I havent tried anything else.I think all these products are much of a muchness.Its how you apply it that gives the different textures.

I like the newspaper method,as i can alter shapes and thicknesses at any stage.If you tell me my mountains look crap,and i believe youbiggrini can probably change all of them in a day.Just throw new newspaper.If i decided that covered mountains look better i can smooth these very quickly.

The master of mountains over here,old Ken Tuscker,never shapes anything with the newspaper.Its just a base.The thicker mixtures of plaster afterwards is where he works his magic.Ive seen him add tree bark into a solid rockface on a n-scale layout....and MAN,he is an artist.

One day i WILL be that good.
If at any stage in the defusing of a bomb,you should see a bomb technician running,try your utmost best to keep up with him-Army magazine of preventative action.
Offline rschaffr  
#13 Posted : 24 September 2008 16:22:06(UTC)
rschaffr

United States   
Joined: 03/01/2003(UTC)
Posts: 5,181
Location: Southern New Jersey, USA
Riekus..your work already is magnificent. I can't imagine you getting better.
-Ron
Digital, Epoch IV-V(K-track/CS3/6021Connect/60216051), Epoch III(C-track/6021/6036/6051)
http://www.sem-co.com/~rschaffr/trains/trains.html
Offline monster134  
#14 Posted : 24 September 2008 19:13:09(UTC)
monster134

South Africa   
Joined: 23/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 705
Location: ,
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by rschaffr
<br />Riekus..your work already is magnificent. I can't imagine you getting better.


Hehehehe,thanx,but im no pioneer.Im a copycat.Irritates the crap out of me.

I have juuuuuuust enough talent to do a brilliant copy of the original.biggrin

The guys here in South Africa will know Ken Tuscker.He is an incredibly old man lol.But,the passion and the style he puts into this hobby,is absolutely mindblowing.

I want to go visit Ken again soon,and ask him if i can do a thread about him here.He is a master.
If at any stage in the defusing of a bomb,you should see a bomb technician running,try your utmost best to keep up with him-Army magazine of preventative action.
Offline sudibarba  
#15 Posted : 25 September 2008 05:55:08(UTC)
sudibarba

United States   
Joined: 28/07/2006(UTC)
Posts: 880
Location: Augusta, GA USA
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by monster134
<br />
Quote:
[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by rschaffr
<br />Riekus..your work already is magnificent. I can't imagine you getting better.


Hehehehe,thanx,but im no pioneer.Im a copycat.Irritates the crap out of me.

I have juuuuuuust enough talent to do a brilliant copy of the original.biggrin

Yes, your work is fantastic. I love your photos. However, I may try some of that other stuff when I get around to scenery in the next year or so as I will be moving in 12 to 18 months. Like Ron, I'm ready to retire (to my other home in Augusta, GA). Hopefully Ron will give us some feedback if he tries the other stuff. Ultimately, I think it is more the artist than the medium - You could probably make any work.
Eric

The guys here in South Africa will know Ken Tuscker.He is an incredibly old man lol.But,the passion and the style he puts into this hobby,is absolutely mindblowing.

I want to go visit Ken again soon,and ask him if i can do a thread about him here.He is a master.
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