Hi Nick,all,
The ETE modular group does this.If I remember correctly,the old(4-digit) K-track switches can be used,but needed to be modified,the new(5-digit) K-track can be used as is,as they will work with DC/DCC.
You should have alot of fun with the wiring.

Dr Dirt

Hello there,

@kvbrod: it seems that the only way to check it is to order these switches and see for ourselves (I would like to avoid messy cutting of rails and strange cabling).

@ulf99: I made a somewhat simplified version yesterday, removing the DKW double-slip switch (it wasn't really necessary), and added a stub-end engine terminal, which can be used inside the loop or in-line with the entrance modules
(note: each green rectangle is 0.5meters big on the side):



The most interior track has 88cm radius, the most external track has 103cm radius, as you rigtly guessed.
I am using 120cm long panels in the outside, but I may go up to 140cm outside panels. The green circle has 250cm diameter in this design (2.5 meters), if you go with 1400mm outside panels, we will get approximately a three meters outside circle.

The plan is to start with the two most exterior loops and 5 switches in total, then expand as needs arise (either adding the two extra loops inside or adding the engine terminal).

If you need a bigger version of the desing for printing, you can download it from:

http://img411.imageshack...=loopproposal3bigyf3.gif



Forgot to say, in the first design in this thread I have done a variation with the long Peco switches (show at the lower part of the image).
As you can see, the two entrance modules that implement the 'Y' junction become a bit longer.

Cheers,
N.F.

According to an old-timer, old switches were shorted, so you had to do serious surgery in these in order to work with DC locomotives.
We speak about K-track switches here, don't know what happens with C-track switches.

Regards from Athens,
Nick the Greek

But I thought it was obvious that I am speaking about K-track, no M-track or C-track.

The switches I mentioned are the following:
2272/2273 (why aren't these in the online shop of Marklin?) or the 22715/22716 - do these work with DC/DCC without modifications?

(I removed the 2275 Double slip switch from my design, mostly for cost reasons).

Regards,
Nick the Greek.

Oops, I think I was misunderstood.

Let me rephrase my question:

I want to run either 2-rail or 3-rail trains (let's forget DC/DCC/AC for now).
Will 2-rail locomotives work correctly in the K-track switches I mentioned?
I want to be able in a session to 'play' with 2-rail trains, and later I want to use 3-rail trains.

Hope my question is clearer/more correct now?

Regards,
N.Fotis

Hmmm, the Trix Express range doesn't have long turnouts, right?
(The 22715/22716 K-track turnouts are rather 'medium' size, compared to the long Peco switches, for example).

Still, I haven't seen someone stating unambiguously that the 22715/22716 switches will run 2-rail DC trains without messing with these.
Any documentation/links? (I will search with Google too).

I am surprised that nobody has tried this combination (I will try to discern in the ETE site if they have something to say on this).

Either I will have to buy one of these switches, or use the Peco loooong turnouts and make a nice (but tiring) conversion demonstrated to me with steel wire in lieu or these damn pukos...

Regards,
N.F
EDIT. Found this one from ETE: http://www.ete.org/modspecs2.htm#SWITCHES
So, they categorically say these switches work without modification with DC trains...

Hello there,

just received my order of Marklin switches from Lokshop - I had ordered 22715 and 22716
(it took more than one month, because they hadn't in stock Woodland Scenics ballast...)

Here is a close-up of one switch




Note that the manual hand throw mechanism can be positioned on the other side of the switch
(yes, these are mine thumbs...)




Here is a side view of the switch.
It looks passable (nearly like a Peco medium switch, excluding the very thick rails)




And now for the shocker - look at these damned pukos head-on [xx(]





Oh well.
Painting and ballasting is 'de rigeur' for this thing, in order to make that less conspicuous.

With a digital multimeter, I checked the polarity in the parts of the switch
(I colorized the various part of it).

Straight position:



Diverging position:



As you can see, the pukos are always 'on', and the frog is insulated
(this may cause problems with small shunters moving at slow speeds, which take power from 1 or 2 axles).

At any rate, these switches look to be very compatible with 2-rail operation
(insert sigh of relief).

Cheers,
N.Fotis

Hello there,

Unfortunately, I have no prior experience with Marklin switches in 2-rail operation, and I was hearing lots of conflicting information until I stumbled upon the ETF pages.

All this FUD (fear, uncertainty and doubt) stuff made me very wary, as you can imagine...

At any rate, I expect to use Peco switches in the future for 3-rail operation, as I detailed in another thread...

Except if Marklin suddently decides to launch a 'finescale' line of track/switches (fat chance...)

Cheers,
N.F.

The Ebert studs are for code 100 tracks only, if I remember correctly.

And these aren't looking much better than the think bronze wire I showed in the Peco thread
(note: the Peco rails in 'that other thread' are code 75!).

Cheers,
N.Fotis