Joined: 08/01/2006(UTC) Views messages in topic : 2,218 Location: Shady Shores, TX - USA
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Has anyone had a problem with long sections of c-track buckling when it is hot and separating when it gets cold. On my layout in the garage where the temp was 50deg f cooler this morning than it was last week a 9ft section of track came apart. I didn't have any screws in this section because this summer it had buckled and pulled the screws out. its is only held in place but a curve at one end and a turnout at the other. I trying to figure out if it is caused by the temperature change or is it something else I am missing. Real track dose change its length with the weather but its mostly over very long distances. |
DT Now powered by ECoS II unit#2, RocRail
era - some time in the future when the space time continuum is disrupted and ICE 3 Trains run on the same rails as the Adler and BR18's. |
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Joined: 12/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,448 Location: Wellington, New_Zealand
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DT, deffinitely not you - C-Track does expand and contract.
I have more noticeably observed contraction, and thought maybe the track was still drying out from manufacture. So while temperature is involved I think it is more likely to be humidity related.
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Peter
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Joined: 19/12/2006(UTC) Posts: 348 Location: , Florida
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It could be your benchwork, too. The lumber in those temperature and humidity extremes could easily expand and contract a quarter inch over eight feet and in all directions at that. Track would do it but not so drastically. Ultimately your best bet is to climate control the garage. |
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Joined: 28/04/2003(UTC) Posts: 757 Location: Wawa, Ontario
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Controlling the humidity would definetly help and having a room which is sealed as much as possible from the rest of the house would also help.
I have insulated the exterior walls of my room before building my layout, also installed a drop ceiling and painted the concrete floor to help minimize the amount of moisture in the room. Lastly I also installed a dehumidifire in the room to control the humidity level, when the dehumidifire runs it also helps keep the room at a constant temperature resulting in not requiring any extra heat source to be installed except for the already installed air vent from the forced air furnace.
Maxi
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Joined: 14/11/2003(UTC) Posts: 1,443 Location: Northeast Ohio
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Seesh, Matthew, that is amazing. How extensive of a layout do you have? Now I feel really guilty and my layout could be quite vulnerable with an old dehumidifier.
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Joined: 28/04/2003(UTC) Posts: 757 Location: Wawa, Ontario
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The room is 13 feet by 12 feet and at the time it cost me about $1000 to prepare.
The next room is twice the size but will most likely cost somewhere around 3 to 4 times the amount due to price inscreases.
I have out grown the present room but have to wait before the next room is available for railroad use, that could be a while.
Maxi
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Joined: 27/01/2007(UTC) Posts: 149 Location: ,
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Has anyone had a problem with C track getting brittle with age. I do not have a permanent layout and find the ends of the track break when taking them apart |
Carl |
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Joined: 06/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 1,159 Location: The Netherlands
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The first batches from C track had that problem. I encountered this also with my small layout. The last rails I bought don't seem to have that problem. As far as I can tell, the older batches has no "O" and "B" marks on the underside. The olders C tracks are always sold at bargain prices on ebay. |
Absolutly AFB-NOHAB fan ;-) |
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Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by Maxi <br />have out grown the present room but have to wait before the next room is available Now that's an idea - collecting rooms for MRR ...  [}:)] No trouble with my C-track so far, Darrin ... |
I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators. AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only. CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ... Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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Joined: 22/11/2004(UTC) Posts: 1,836 Location: Trumbull, CT
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My layout 27'x 8' two levels uses C throughout. It's in my basement. I've never had a problem, except for the old first generation C track which was sometimes brittle. I remember when I used M track and had some rust spots. That was a 100 years ago.
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Stephen(USA) ETE,NMRA,MEA |
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Joined: 22/04/2004(UTC) Posts: 12,139 Location: New York, NY
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by stephenbb <br />My layout 27'x 8' Sounds great. Where are the pics [}:)]  |
I hope no one visits a poor Southener's layout in Brooklyn. Intruders beware of Gators. AT&SF, D&RGW, T&P, SP, WP, UP, BN, NYC, ARR, epI-III - analog & digital Marklin Classics only. CU#6021 FX-MOTOROLA DIGITAL SYSTEM. Fast as lightning and no trouble. What else ... Outlaw Member of BIG JUHAN's OUTSIDER CLUB. With the most members, worldwide
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Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by MärCo <br />The first batches from C track had that problem. I encountered this also with my small layout. The last rails I bought don't seem to have that problem. As far as I can tell, the older batches has no "O" and "B" marks on the underside. The olders C tracks are always sold at bargain prices on ebay.
That really got me out of the chair, as I have bought some tracks second hand. I never heard this before. But the ones I could identify for sure do have the B and 0 markings. What a relief. BTW what does the "B" stand for nowadays? Many years ago many of our schematics had the supply voltage named "B+" instead of the actual voltage value. I wonder if the "B" still stands for that. At least it imprinted next to the center track connection tab. And the "0" then being neutral - two outer tracks. Does anybody know? |
Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL  |
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Joined: 06/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 1,159 Location: The Netherlands
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As far as I can tell, there are 3 generations C track:
1ste — No "B" and "O" marking, with 5 digit part number. Clips on the end often break. 2nd — With "B" and "O" marking, with 5 digit part number. Better quality, confirmed by Märklin. 3rd — With "B" and "O" marking, with 3 digit part number. The 24 prefix from the part number is missing. This is just like the TRIX C track. |
Absolutly AFB-NOHAB fan ;-) |
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Joined: 12/01/2002(UTC) Posts: 2,578 Location: Sweden
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I don't know for sure, but I would guess that the expansion/contraction is mainly temperature related. Most kinds of plastic do contract/expand much more with temperature than what many other materials do.
Expansion/contraction of the benchwork could also be a contributing factor. In that case, moisture could be involved. However, wood typically gets dryer during cold periods so the effect would normally be the other way around.
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Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 2,497 Location: Denmark
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Quote:quote:Originally posted by MärCo <br />As far as I can tell, there are 3 generations C track:
1ste — No "B" and "O" marking, with 5 digit part number. Clips on the end often break. 2nd — With "B" and "O" marking, with 5 digit part number. Better quality, confirmed by Märklin. 3rd — With "B" and "O" marking, with 3 digit part number. The 24 prefix from the part number is missing. This is just like the TRIX C track.
Thanks for the information. BTW Märklin part numbers on track pieces are not easy to read, sometimes you even need a magnifying glass and light in a certain angle. [:(!] That surely could be done [size=3]a lot better IMHO. |
Regards, Benny - Outsider and MFDWPL  |
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Joined: 15/03/2003(UTC) Posts: 9,586 Location: Australia
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Adrian Australia flag by abFlags.com |
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Joined: 27/01/2007(UTC) Posts: 149 Location: ,
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Thanks for the explanation Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote:Originally posted by MärCo <br />The first batches from C track had that problem. I encountered this also with my small layout. The last rails I bought don't seem to have that problem. As far as I can tell, the older batches has no "O" and "B" marks on the underside. The olders C tracks are always sold at bargain prices on ebay.
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Carl |
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Joined: 17/09/2006(UTC) Posts: 18,769 Location: New Zealand
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Quote:[size=1" face="Verdana" id="quote]quote: Originally posted by xxup<br />That's the nice thing about m-track and board.. Screwing m-track to board has the same effect as reinforcing the table with a steel frame.. No expansion problems down here...    True!! Can't say I've ever had this problem, what with my layout being M Track.
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